I agree with you. Drop the subframe and/or suspension components as it will much easier to reach to the pan bolts especially on the driver's side.
1.) If I remember correctly that Alldata said a good 6 inches, however, I found that to be still short. I dropped it further enough to drop it and then be able to slide it out towards the transmission. As long as it can be out of the oil pump housing way, you are good to go.
2.) There will be tremendous amount of weight/tension being hung on that column if you do not separate them. That I do not think is a good idea. Plus, how will you drop the subframe with the rack being fastened to it?
Last edited by auaq; 05-15-2012 at 07:56 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Wish this thread existed a month ago...
I dropped my subframe as low as possible without removing any suspension components...
Last edited by auaq; 05-15-2012 at 08:22 PM.
Yep... I raised the engine... I also loosened the transmission mounts and removed the exhaust in order to avoid any binding... Sounded like a v-twin without the exhaust pipe... lol
http://s16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...t=9968adf9.mp4
Last edited by LuisGT; 05-15-2012 at 08:30 PM.
I found this pretty helpful post:
Thread:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=114577
It looks like he did the job without using any hoist, or engine support.
He just jacked up the engine near the transmission...
Last edited by Jason5driver; 05-16-2012 at 12:03 AM.
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
Last edited by LuisGT; 05-16-2012 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
auaq,
Thanks for that info.
How far the subframe needs to be lowered determines how far to raise the car on the jack stands even though its on a hoist. (4 post ramp type) I will raise the car to give a good 8-9 inches drop for the subframe.
I thought it might be easier to not disconnect the steering column and use the sliding column part to avoid doing this. I didn't think it was a good idea but worth considering but for now the TIS rules.
I've also never considered going down the "cut the gasket" approach as it isn't necessary when you can raise the car high enough. Its really a last resort approach when all else fails.
Thanks
RonR
That oil pickup tube is a real bitch.
Other cars that don't matter, and then..
'01 530i Sport/Premium/Cold Weather(My 1st love)
'02 540i Sport/Premium/Cold Weather (German bitch)
'06 330i Sport/Comfort (Sweetness!)
'08 535i/6 Sport/Premium/Comfort/Nav ()
'99 528i Sport Touring (Repaired the Previous owners garbage and let her go)
'02 525iT Premium/Nav/Cold Weather/Alpine/Supercherry
'90 325i e30 sedan schwarz (1st e30 project!)
'90 325is e30
'06 X5 4.4
'04 325i Sport
'04 330ci
'89 325IX 31k Original Miles!
'04 330i e46 coupe
'08 550i Sport
'13 535i Sport
'13 328i Luxury
'88 e30 Stroker
+1Originally Posted by cnn
there is nothing wrong with taking short cuts when done right, and if you can find a way to cut hours off a DIY job, and still have the same outcome then by all means do it. Of course short cuts dont apply to everything, theres plenty of ways to get a job done easier and quicker. But if it's a dealer or Indy doing repairs the right ways is expected.
A few things:
1) I wouldn't shortcut this job the way CNN does it. To be sure the new gasket doesn't leak, you should completely remove the pan & use a razer blade to clean the gasket interface on both the engine & pan. With the pan close to the engine, you will wind up with debris in the pan at best.
2) Fully dropping the pan allows for a thorough cleaning & inspection of the pan & engine. While the pan is down, I check each rod bearing for play although you'd probably hear it...
3) Doing this in the car is probably a nightmare. Some of those 10mm bolts have tight access and it's also a pain lining the gasket up so the bolts thread in. I'd allow a good chunk of time just to get the pan back on. It probably takes a half our OUTSIDE the car.
4) I use a victor reinz gasket which seems fine to me.
Great thread for those of us with e39's old enough to have this problem. At recent oil change, I got called into the shop to witness oil beginning to seep around the oil pan gasket. Was told the shop will monitor this for dripping at next oil change, and that if I hold onto car for any length of time this is likely to have to be replaced. it's currently at 176,000 miles.
My question is: while having this done, is there anything else that should get replaced with the subframe off the bottom of the vehicle? Motor mounts? I don't want to be faced with having this done, only to find out six months later that some other major work needs doing that requires taking down the subframe again?
Did you have to remove the brake calipers for this?
Perelet, how did you manage to lower the subframe? What exactly did you do? I've tried to shake and pull down hard but it won't budge at all. The four long screws holding the subframe are out and I've loosened top and unfastened bottom of left and right engine mounts. The engine is lifted nearly 2 inches using the harborfrieght tool. Powersteering pump is out and so is the oil deepstick tube.
Should the steering rack be unfastened from the subframe?
I've given up for the day and going to bed now. I might just have to bloody cut the gasket and get it over with. I've already spent tooo many hours on this.
Awesome DIY thanks! I will be using this, and i was wondering if it might be possible to kill teo birds eith one stone... If I needed to do the steering rack too do you think I could snake it out after lowering the subframe? I ask before the instructions for the steering rack all say I need to lift the engine 1.5" or 4cm to get clearance to remove the rack
Tagged
E39Only, I do not read this board often, so PM will reach me faster. Somehow you missed 2 bolts on subframe, if you read carefully I said 6 bolts, you loosened only 4 - that will make removal hard
Here's pic of subframe and bolt locations:
Also, you are lifting engine way too high - see on 1st page:
Enjoy.
Oleg.
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