I nearly went into shock when I read some of the procedures to replace the gaskets on the valve covers - specifically the clips on the fuel injector connection. I checked them out and thought....no way BMW aren't that stupid.
People talking 5+ hrs with dental picks and loosing things. Another way was pop the black boxes and release the injector connector from the inside - which I started to do,
The ONLY way to do it ( as some have pointed out already ) is undo the 3 x 10mm bolts and lift off the fuel rail - black boxes and all. with this method you could replace the gaskets in under an hour.
Dont remove the cabin filters dont take off any other bits except the centre cover and the injector covers, and the air filter box..........thats IT.
SOme one should troll the net and remove all those misleading posts about popping the clips and dental picks etc etc. So some poor buggar doesnt go that route, I nearly did - and boy would I have been sorry.
'e39 549 .......' ??????
I assume you're talking about this step:
9. The TIS would have you believe that you cansmall metal clip.
simply fold the wiring box over the top of the
engine to give you access to the cover. The TIS
is wrong. Very wrong. The passenger side
wiring box is a huge pain for two reasons: First,
it connects to the chassis via a large flexible
conduit, so you can’t really ever swing it out of
the way. The second – and much larger –
problem is the fuel injectors. The wiring box sits
on top of the fuel injectors and is attached to
them via four plastic connectors. Unfortunately,
each of the four connectors is individually
retained to its corresponding fuel injector with a
Until a better DIY is found or done (hint ) the current one will remain in the archives. We could however, start a thread on this, insert a link to the current DIY and have at it as far as adding information or clarifying parts of the procedure as you did above. It would be best if you could provide a pic of the step done the right way.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 04-06-2012 at 08:50 PM.
I did the pick the clip off the injectors thing once NEVER AGAIN!
And I didn't pull the fuel rail the second time.
All I did was pull the electrical boxes straight off, no damage no problems
I think it's somebody's cruel joke to make you pull the clips off
E85 fueled, Eaton m112 supercharged 4.5L M62TU, TTV racing flywheel, Spec stage 2+ clutch, 88c thermostat, eibach sway bars, wavetrac 3.15 lsd, m5 steering box, Quantum 340lph fuel pump, Dinan camber plates, some powerflex bushings, Supersprint headers, M5 cats, 2001 gas pedal upgrade and many other things done. all diy by me
I've done it a number of times. Usually it only takes < 10 min to get all of the clips off.
Another way is like this.
+1 for glens's procedure. I start the car, pull the fuel pump fuses (numbers 22 and 30, I think) and let the car run dry (stall). Then I:
* Disconnect the battery
* Remove the cabin filters (I prefer to have more room)
* Remove the intake filter box and intake tube (probably could get away with NOT removing these just to do the valve covers)
* Disconnect the harness cables
* Disconnect the positive post on the Bank 2 valve cover
* Remove the five bolts that hold the fuel rail in place
* Remove the black plastic coil covers
* Remove the coils
* Lift the fuel rail, with injectors and electrical boxes still attached
* Suspend fuel rail et al from hood with bungee and prop hood open with something (the bungee will otherwise pull the hood down)
* Place towels in spark plug valleys to prevent anything (ESPECIALLY washers from valve cover grommets/bolts) from falling into spark plug holes -- if one of those valve cover washers fall into the spark plug hole, it's near IMPOSSIBLE to get it out
* Unbolt and remove valve covers
This saves me TONS of time versus removing all the fuel injector clips.
--Peter
Last edited by peter540; 04-06-2012 at 11:31 PM.
'03 540i-6
153k mi; bought April ‘07 w/38k mi
Silv/Blk, CWP, UUC SSK w/DSSR, M5 diff, JBR LW FW, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, Zionsville w/2-stage fan, coolant hoses, M60 intake manifold, motor-out overhaul (powder-coated VCs, TCGs, valley pan, coolant mani, head gaskets, heads refurb, all other gaskets, seals), Beisan vanos, PS pump & hoses, AC comp, fuel pump & filter, washer hoses, 88-degree thermo, DUDMD tune, Vibrant Racing muffler, Zeck CDV, Brembo solid-disc rotors w/ Textron pads & UUC SS brake lines, Dinan springs w/Koni Yellow shocks/struts, M5 front & rear sway bars, H&R 10mm spacers & studs front & rear, Pilot Sport A/S 3s, headlight adj repair, polished headlight lenses, 6k Umnitza Xenon & AE bulbs, new OEM M-Sport bumpers, gauge rings, permanent seat-twist repair to front seats, ZHP shift knob, M5 headliner kit (reinforced A-pillar clips), Schmiedmann pedals, MID & cluster pixel repair, Bavsound Stage 1 speaker upgrade & dedicated amp w/DSP subwoofers, retrofitted cupholder
that's the way I did it - I nearly fell for the trap and did the dental pick route ( phew...that was close ) - I'd be still there now, with lots of little broken bits as a bonus.Kudos to the blokes who did the clips on the injectors - you must have the patience of Jonah.
My point of this was just to get it out there ( fuel rail lift THE EASY WAY ) so quick and easy, there is no reason to have leaking valve covers when its this easy. Im talking about myself now - I was dreading the day I did this. Kept putting it off...you know "Ahhh thats not so much oil on the ground" no need to do that yet ...yeah right!.
Then I started thinking about all that oil softening the engine mounts ( thats what usually stuffs them ) they go soft from oil and then you wind it out one day, twist the motor ( torque reaction) and the mount separates.
ANyway I hope this helps someone contemplating this job. Just want to give a little bit back - been trolling the site for awhile, getting the good oil ( ( information ).
ANother little n=bit of info ( sharing is caring ) I have come to the conclusion that the BMW electrical system will shut off cables that have experianced an earth,which they will then reactivate uopn next time it starts. No speaker sound on the rear parcel shelf speaker - found it had been crushed by the mechanic when the installed the top shocker bracket and earthed out. Insulated it and away it went. Same for the wire going to the clutch on the AC would not engage when turned on. FOund the power wire which powers the AC clutch Earthed due to perished outer. Insulated it, disconnected the battery for a few sec's and ta daaaaahhhhhhhh AC working again.
Biblical literary correction: Job was the patient one. Jonah was the recalcitrant guy sent to Nineveh who ended up sucked down by the whale, only to be puked up three days later.Originally Posted by glens
I'm just saying.
2003 996.2 C4S
2004 986.2 S
2011 958 Turbo
E39 540i6 to new home.
E34 540iA also to new home. Currently Bimmerless and sad.
Did you replace all the lower o-rings on the injectors when you put it back together? If not i would keep an eye out for leaks, all it takes is a little nick in one o-ring, car fires are no fun.
2001 330Cic/A in the same color combo is "Her" ride.
daaamn that's cool nice touch with the blue vc and filter housing
The clips are not necessary for the proper operation of the car. I never reinstalled mine and have had no issues.
Clips or no clips (I prefer mine on), when replacing the VC gaskets, it's good practice to replace the upper timing chain covers gaskets (don't forget the gasket ring). Also it's a good time to install a new tensioner with new crush ring and dipstick tube "O" ring. Consider powder coating the VC's while removed.
when I did my valve covers I just grabbed the E-boxes and pulled firmly... most of them just pulled right off the injectors with the clips in place, one of the connectors (on both sides) popped out of the box, I just snapped it back into place. I think one of them broke a clip in the e-box, but its really not that big of a deal... all it is is a harness in there and there is plenty of slack to move the box to get to the connector if they pull out.
2001 330Cic/A in the same color combo is "Her" ride.
Yep, I'm with Jason on this. Just snatch them up and off.
/.randy
Would it be possible to access the Vanos to replace the seals if I take this shortcut to the valve cover?
Yes this. Grab firmly and yank
1:25
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E1vFrxQcqk
Timely thread, thanks guys!
I did my valley pan without disconnecting any wiring at all, regardless it's nice to see these tricks to make lives easier!
Me neither. Mine was valve cover gasket, but same difference. Cabin filter, cabin filter duct, and one fuel line and go. My valve covers were freshly painted so grinding them into place was not an option and I did not have to remove all this stuff to get them in place with new gasket and only one tiny scratch. I lost one of the damn cabin filter clips though despite putting it "somewhere where I would not lose it" LOL! Safe placement has nothing on old-timers disease. Damn dealer is only one who sells the silly things..
Last edited by m5hoot; 04-09-2013 at 09:07 AM.
Old, contrary, and out-of-touch,
but still learning sumpin' every day
NOTORIOUSLY long-winded :-(
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