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Thread: Won't go in gear while running but will when off

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Won't go in gear while running but will when off

    The other night I indulged in some alcoholic beverages and did what I thought a smart idea let my friend take my car home. He's driven my car before I thought w/o any issues. I go to pick it up this morning and immediately I noticed there was a faint burnt smell inside the car, under the hood the same smell was present, the clutch pedal was significantly stiffer, and it would not go in any gear while started but would go in gear while it was off. While running, if i try to force it into 1st (doesn't actually go in) the car starts to creep real slow but will not take off. He claims he drove it home with no problems. The car has 192k miles on it with the original clutch. It has shown no signs of slipping with normal driving but there's inability to drop the clutch in first since I bought it (yes cdv was completed). It seems like the clutch may not be disengaging?

    Anyone experience this or have some insight?

    Clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder? new clutch?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Sounds like the throwout bearing is hanging up. When the car is not running, nothing within the transmission is spinning, thus it's possible to put the car in gear. With the engine running, there is too much friction in the throwout bearing, resulting in your inability to shift into gear.

    Replace:
    1. Clutch
    2. Pressure plate
    3. Throwout bearing
    4. Flush fluid through slave cylinder

    If fluid flush doesn't solve issue after clutch overhaul, new slave cylinder will be next step.
    BMW ADP/ Step - Central Piedmont Charlotte/ Woodcliff Lake NJ

  3. #3
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    throw out

    First off, thanks for your reply!

    Isn't there usually a noise associated with the throw out bearing failure? Mine isn't experiencing any type of abnormal noise with or without clutch pressed. Would the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder possibly cause this? If there's a chance I would rather replace cheaper parts first. The burning smell is still under the hood and inside the car... just got it towed home today.

    Any tests or troubleshooting I should try?

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Not sure if you want to pull the transmission more then one time on these things.might just want to buy all OEM parts and replace everything while its out.

    Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Pull

    Well I planned on replacing everything inside if I did drop the trans... just seeing if there's a possibility that its just one of cylinders before I get all gung ho and start getting into major components. If replacing the clutch isn't neccessary I'd rather hold off at this moment.

    Just looking for help from people with past experiences with the e46. I've had mine since August and this is the only major problem that I've encountered.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Sounds like a clutch master or slave cylinder (but that usually results in a squishy feeling not stiff).

    A few checks to see what it is:
    With the car running try pumping the clutch 3-5 times then hold down and try to put into gear. What this does is builds up enough pressure to release clutch. If this works it's your clutch master and or slave, might as well replace both.

    With the engine off place car in first gear on a hill. Release the parking brake and pedal brake. If the car rolls down the hill (within reason, if you park it on a mountain it will roll so use common sense when doing this test) then your clutch is toast.

    Place car in first gear with the engine off. Depress the clutch pedal and start the car. If the car moves then your clutch master or slave cylinder is bad and or you have broken and or worn pressure plate fingers.

    Hope this helps.
    "Screwed" by ESS Tuning

  7. #7
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    Thanks...

    I've already tried putting the car in first prior to starting. This causes the car to launch forward and isn't really driveable.


    I've tried pumping the clutch numerous times while running and placing in gear with no luck.


    I will do the incline test tomorrow after work.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbierniat View Post
    Thanks...

    I've already tried putting the car in first prior to starting. This causes the car to launch forward and isn't really driveable.


    I've tried pumping the clutch numerous times while running and placing in gear with no luck.


    I will do the incline test tomorrow after work.
    Sounds like the fingers on your pressure plate are broken then. You may have to pull this tranny in order to see what's going on.

    Lesson learned, never let anyone drive your car. He probably beat on it and broke the clutch.
    "Screwed" by ESS Tuning

  9. #9
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    Admitt

    Well I got my buddy intoxicated and started interrogating him. He admitted driving all the way home in third gear because he did not want to shift.. numerous stop signs along the way

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbierniat View Post
    Well I got my buddy intoxicated and started interrogating him. He admitted driving all the way home in third gear because he did not want to shift.. numerous stop signs along the way
    Your clutch is toast. Make him pay for the repairs.
    "Screwed" by ESS Tuning

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cbierniat
    Well I got my buddy intoxicated and started interrogating him. He admitted driving all the way home in third gear because he did not want to shift.. numerous stop signs along the way
    With the amount of heat and friction generated in there by your dumbass of a friend, you obviously need a new clutch, I'm sure the finger are distorted or broken off the press a plate, to bearing, pilot bearing and Im willing to bet your dual mass flywheel is trashed beyond repair.

    You did the right thing by not driving while drunk, but leave your car at home next time.

    Sent from my iPhone while driving

  12. #12
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    Would the heat and friction allow him to make it home without any problems?


    I'm going to be purchasing the Sachs clutch kit but the question is what about the flywheel? Would one from Advance Auto, NAPA, or Autozone be sufficient? Is there a certain type that I need?


    If not, what about picking up a used OEM one?

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    The smell is a cooked clutch. It has been overheated and all of the lubrication is burnt off of the splines on the input shaft. That's why it won't go into gear while running. Or just that the clutch is so fried it won't release. Either way the trans has to come out and new clutch and probably flywheel. Still cheaper than DUI.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
    The smell is a cooked clutch. It has been overheated and all of the lubrication is burnt off of the splines on the input shaft. That's why it won't go into gear while running. Or just that the clutch is so fried it won't release. Either way the trans has to come out and new clutch and probably flywheel. Still cheaper than DUI.
    Lubrication off the splines? What are you talking about?

    Clutch overheated, destroyed the flysheel and pressure plate and also 100% guaranteed weakened, broke, or distorted the pressure plate finger and THAT is the reason why it won't engage. Not because of the lube on the splines...

    OP, buy an OEM clutch and flywheel, don't buy garbage from an autoparts store. OEM or good aftermarket such as UUC.
    "Screwed" by ESS Tuning

  15. #15
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    If you overheat the clutch and all of the lube on the trans input shaft splines disappears you won't be able to put the car in gear at a stop with the engine running. Shut the car off the car off and it goes right in gear. That only happens if it is mildly abused. This car was majorly abused.
    I lent my car out a few years back and she did just what I said above. I had to pull the trans and put some grease back on the splines. Fixed the issue. BMW makes a special lube just for this.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwbob89
    If you overheat the clutch and all of the lube on the trans input shaft splines disappears you won't be able to put the car in gear at a stop with the engine running. Shut the car off the car off and it goes right in gear. That only happens if it is mildly abused. This car was majorly abused.
    I lent my car out a few years back and she did just what I said above. I had to pull the trans and put some grease back on the splines. Fixed the issue. BMW makes a special lube just for this.
    Bobs back!

    Sent from my Thunderbolt using BF.com

    by Dane Wilson, on Flickr

  17. #17
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    Hi Dane,
    Ya I've been away a few weeks. Marathon training takes a lot of time. Boston Marathon in one week! I had a coronary heart stent put in 3 weeks ago but I'm back and ready to run and talk shit on the forum. Life is good!

  18. #18
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    Man, that's an annoying situation.

    I've seen the same thing from bad guest drivers. The clutch material basically heated to near-liquid state, and was glued in between the fingers of the pressure plate. Your friend was able to keep driving it home because it was still molten. Good luck with the swap.


  19. #19
    nathancarter is offline Stretch Haters Club #1 BMW CCA Member
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    While the transmission is out, replace the shift pin bushings. This will solve the common problem of the shifter feeling difficult to move all the way to the right to go into 5th, and not returning to the center position after taking it out of 5th. The parts are cheap but it can only be done while the trans is out.

    here are some threads about it - some of them are for the E36 but the problem and the solution are the same (I think):

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?p=3698449
    (start at post #755)

    forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?p=4917770

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwbob89 View Post
    Hi Dane,
    Ya I've been away a few weeks. Marathon training takes a lot of time. Boston Marathon in one week! I had a coronary heart stent put in 3 weeks ago but I'm back and ready to run and talk shit on the forum. Life is good!
    That is amazing! You're a tough bastard, man. Do you already no what number you will be wearing during the race??? Always nice to see how locals are doing in the race, especially a fellow bimmer nut!

  21. #21
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    #16575 2/8 Eckert, Dale Bob 56 M Newburyport MA USA

  22. #22
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    Update!

    I finally got around to removing everything and taking a peek at the clutch. I discovered what looked to be some melted material inside the bell housing and inside the pressure plate. The smell I encountered inside the car was definitley inside the clutch. Does anyone know what the material is?? This is my first clutch job

    What is the debris?
    Does the flywheel look reusable or should I purchase one with less miles?


  23. #23
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    Get a new flywheel or you'll be right back in there. I know they are expensive but the time it takes to take it back apart is a pain. It's been overheated and needs replaced. Get new flywheel bolts as they have a locktite/sealant on them.

  24. #24
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    What is the material that was found all over the housing and inside the pressure plate?

    Should I go this route with the ebay F1 Stage 1 Clutch kit w/the lightweight flywheel for 426 or best offer

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/F1-STAGE-1-C...sories&vxp=mtr

    or

    go through Rockauto and get the Sachs clutch kit for $250 with a used lower mileage flywheel? Mine has 195k on it.
    SACHS Part # K7028802
    Body code E46; O.D : 9 1/2; I.D : 1 1/8; TEETH : 10T
    $251.79

  25. #25
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    That was material off of your clutch disc. I would stick with the stock clutch and flywheel unless you take the car to the track. Don't get a used flywheel or you'll be right back in there. A non dual mass flywheel will cause a lot of gear rattle.

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