LAD removal.

[Geoff Turton]

Hi gang, I know this has probably been covered here but I can't search on the phone app.
Anyhow to the point.
I see my LAD system is now leaking off the the strut and at the regulating valve is all rusted. Realoem says the regulating valve is $340+.
I already have a set of rear springs for non LAD, thinking now is the time to go LAD delete.
What is involved? I am guessing I need to loop the system but what do I need for the struts?
Thanks
Geoff

[shogun]

http://twrite.org/shogunnew/upgrades...adreplace.html
yes, you have to loop the system to have circulating fluid in the system, otherwise the power steering pump will be blocked. In case of LAD the power steering pump is a dual pump

[corbinstein0]

If you're using 735 Struts, it may be low, so you'll have to fabricate spacers for the top... about 2" tall. I made mine from aluminum, drilled holes thru in the same pattern as the top piece of the strut, as well as a hole in the center for the top of the strut to fit into...

Disassemble the strut, knock out the old bolts and stick some 2.5" bolts up thru it and thru the spacer, reassemble the strut and bolt it on....

of course you have to be careful the spring and recompress it....

Best be to do a LAD Delete search here...

Try this thread..... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ght=lad+delete

[Gold3nMAn]

Is there a write up some where that could tell me how to check if my lad system is working or not. I have not driven the car very much still a work in progress, but something I would want to check before I put everything back together. I just bought it 2 months ago. Maybe before I got it all the fluid leaked out and I wouldnt know if it is leaking now or not. Please inform me of things to check / look for.

Thanks,
Gold3n

[shogun]

http://www.phpoint.fi/leka446/BMW/E32_E34_selflevel.pdf
very easy. Engine off, load the trunk full of heavy stuff that the rear goes does, now start engine and then the rear should go up to normal level.
Riding height is in the Bentley Repair manual.
Bentley's has a table for LAD equipped cars as follows:
Wheels Rear ride height
15 in. 522 +/-3 mm (20.55 +/- 0.4 inches)
16 in. 529 +/-3 mm (20.93 +/- 0.1 inches)
17 in. 545 +/-3 mm (21.46 +/- 0.1 inches)

Ride height is measured from the lower edge of the wheel arch to the bottom edge of the wheel rim (not the ground).

And also I found a comment by Patrick that 1 mm adjustment on the bar of the lever is/maybe about 1 inch of the ride height.
So adjustment must be very careful is little steps.

How to do, is shown with ilustration on my website below.


bleeding points http://www.phpoint.fi/leka446/BMW/mi...-schematic.jpg

LAD bleeding
raise the rear so that both wheels are free, so the shocks hang down, that will open a tiny bleeding hole at the bottom of the shocks, start engine and let is run so that the fluid is corculating for self bleeding, turn the steering wheel 3-4 times from one end to the other.
Check fluid level in the Pentosin container again and refill if necessary.
Or you canloosen the lever on the stabilizer so you can change the adjustment. If you move the lever forward, in the driving direction, you also move the lever on the control valve forward and the result should be an increase in ride height, in reverse, moving the lever backwards, should result in a decrease of the ride height. First thing to do after a repair is to remove all the air from the system. You should raise the car with the wheels hanging free and the engine running, move the lever fully in the ‘UP’ direction and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Driving also aids in the removing of the air. The air collects at the top of the shock absorber which then in turn is removed by the previous procedure on the car lift.
The lever on the control valve has in the center ( ‘0’) position, vertical, a small dead zone in the ride height control between raising and lowering the rear. You should check the center position carefully. One should slowly move the lever a little in the direction to raise the rear and listen carefully for the sound of flowing hydraulic oil. Small movements of the lever cause large changes. The trick is to adjust the ride height (with the prerequisite extra weight in the trunk) exactly at the point where you can hear the hydraulic fluid flow. You probably will need a few tries to get this right but you try to get the ride height correct at the onset of the hydraulic fluid noise. Now carefully tighten the lever without moving it relative to the stabilizer bar. Now check the ride height once more without the weight in the trunk, it should not have changed Note: Theory and real world are two different entities and there is no sure method to remove the air.

[Geoff Turton]

I see Monroe has a sensa trac Product Code: M71236-STS129 that is suppose to fit in non LAD cars. I was planning on looping the lines then just removing the current LAD strut and replace with a non LAD strut and H&R lowering Spring that I have now. However I do not want the rear too low.
Thanks for the info everyone
Geoff

[Gold3nMAn]

shogun,

on your web site for the bryanborough pictures. he seems to have gotten some new parts, like the clamps and rods. where can i find those. I've tried bavauto and pelican. I am not sure what to look under.

[shogun]

see www.realoem.com
and buy them here with 20- up to 35% off MSRP
http://www.getbmwparts.com/

[Geoff Turton]

Ok needs some clarification! I thought I had H&R spring but no BavAuto rear springs for a non LAD system. If I buy a set of struts/shocks for a non LAD car, install the springs, loop the LAD, will it work or will the car be sitting to low.
Thanks
Geoff

[corbinstein0]

Be willing to pull them back out and add spacers if necessary....

[Geoff Turton]

Looking into buying the BavAuto kit now. Just do it right the first time. I'm not doing the job, I have a local BMW mechanic next door to my work so I drop the car off and pick it up after work.

[shogun]

Geoff
you also need new shock mounts for normal shocks, the shock mounts for LAD are different.
Springs must be replaced as the LAD springs are softer compared to standard springs, then all should be fine.

If you want to have the rear up more and the front only down, then there are/were special spacers for the rear shock mounts available from BMW, the socalled Eastern Europe or bad road spacers
Nr. 4, Stützlager LA Osteuropa, Nr. 33 52 1 091 692
Nr. 5, Adapter, Nr. 33 52 1 091 694

http://i39.tinypic.com/amckj.jpg

loved by people with tow hook, and who like to have the rear up.
Example E32 735:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...33&fg=45&hl=17

front lowering springs and rear up looks like this
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/freak1ty7.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/152/freak6cs6.jpg/

[spitfire980]

What's the difference between 33521091692 and 33521091694? Is one taller than the other?

[shogun]

diffeent parts, 692 is the guide support #4, 694 is is the adapter #5 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...33#33521091692