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Thread: What else would you replace while replacing the fan and clutch?

  1. #1
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    Which pulleys would you replace while replacing the fan clutch?

    On an E39 530i 120k.

    If you already have the fan off, what else could be easily replaced while in there?

    I'm pretty sure I have mechanical tensioner, b/c I've seen the "bolt" you put the socket onto to loosen the belts.
    So, I only need to get 2 parts from the 2nd diagram, correct?

    UPDATE: I ordered the following:

    #5 in the 2nd diagram (11287841228)
    Deflection Pulley

    #2 in the 2nd diagram (11281427252)
    Mechanical Belt Tensioner

    Is that all?

    Bottom line, what would you replace here? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partgrp.d...587&hg=11#1118



    Do people bother changing the AC tensioner as well?
    No one seems to mention that one, but one would think that fails just as often.
    Is it b/c if that pully/belt breaks, the only consequence is not having A/C?



    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1817311&
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...php?t=1821547&
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...php?t=1863511&
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 06-17-2013 at 12:39 AM.

  2. #2
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    Waterpump, thermostat, belts, and all the plastic pulleys.
    Last edited by zarbat007; 03-28-2012 at 12:13 AM.

  3. #3
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    also the lower and upper hoses. including the ones for the aux pump.
    NEVER argue with an idiot, as he will make you stoop to his level of idiocy.

  4. #4
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    Hoses between the engine and firewall.

  5. #5
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    Sorry, to clarify, the PO already did the cooling system.
    So, I meant what stuff in the pulley section should be replaced?

    Quote Originally Posted by zarbat007 View Post
    Waterpump, thermostat, belts, and all the plastic pulleys.
    I'm pretty sure I have mechanical tensioner, b/c I've seen the "bolt" you put the socket onto to loosen the belts.
    So, I only need to get 2 parts from the 2nd diagram, correct?

    #5 in the 2nd diagram (11287841228)
    Deflection Pulley

    #2 in the 2nd diagram (11281427252)
    Mechanical Belt Tensioner

    Can someone verify this?

    Do people bother changing the AC tensioner as well?
    No one seems to mention that one, but one would think that fails just as often.
    Is it b/c if that pully/belt breaks, the only consequence is not having A/C?
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 03-28-2012 at 04:29 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnTheFence
    Do people bother changing the AC tensioner as well?
    No one seems to mention that one, but one would think that fails just as often.
    Is it b/c if that pully/belt breaks, the only consequence is not having A/C?
    Well, I would because of my experience with my old e32. Changed one tensioner only to have the other fail within a couple weeks so I had to do the same job twice. Replace all tensioners and do the job once imho...

    Sent from my Transformer TF101 using BF.com

    '00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.​*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now

  7. #7
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    It could become a long list quickly. Just be sure to put some anti-seize on the fan clutch and water pump threads. Just my .02

  8. #8
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    Since the fan and fan shroud is already out, might as well replaced the VANOS seals, VCG and vacuum hoses in the back.

    What components of the cooling system did the PO replace?

  9. #9
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    Oil filter housing gasket (the one that seals against the block)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by motion View Post
    It could become a long list quickly. Just be sure to put some anti-seize on the fan clutch and water pump threads. Just my .02
    Thanks for the tip. Will do.

    Quote Originally Posted by george16 View Post
    Since the fan and fan shroud is already out, might as well replaced the VANOS seals, VCG and vacuum hoses in the back.

    What components of the cooling system did the PO replace?
    VANOS will be something for the summer and more heady ambitions. One must crawl before they walk.

    VCG was done by the PO.

    Which vacuum hoses?
    The ones that are only accessed when you remove intake manifold?
    Seems unrelated to the fan.
    Or, are you saying to do these with the VANOS?
    I have seen the 2 air pump vacuum hoses behind the engine with a mirror (behind the engine) but wasn't confident I would R&R while working blindly. "Do no harm"

    Cooling System: (Water Pump, Radiator, Thermostat)
    If it was just those 3 parts, what did they miss?

    I will have to double check the invoice to see if they did the expansion tank..


    Quote Originally Posted by granlund View Post
    Oil filter housing gasket (the one that seals against the block)
    OFHG was replaced when I bought the car from the local Indy.
    Were I to buy the car now, after 3 months of being on this forum, I'd try this job myself.

    Thanks for the tips, guys.
    Last edited by OnTheFence; 03-29-2012 at 10:26 PM.

  11. #11
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    Change waterpump, thermostat housing, pistons, rods, bearings, input shaft bearing, cluster shaft, differential side gear, pinion gear, oil cap, warped head gasket, light bulbs, and most importantly volume control knob.

    This should fix your coolant system.



  12. #12
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    Anyone doing this should not overlook the power steering pulley. (32421740858)
    I totally forgot about this one when I ordered parts. Oh well.


    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...20&hg=32&fg=15

  13. #13
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  14. #14
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    I replaced all the pulleys. I went with an aluminum pulley for the water pump and power steering.

    I recommended VANOS seals too since it requires removal of the fan and shroud. If you forego that until summer, you will have to remove the fan and shroud again.

    Use Beisan VANOS DIY procedure for removing the fan and shroud. I guarantee that you'll be able to do it right since it was written for someone who does not have an idea on what he's doing. It is complete with pictures and was easy to comprehend.

    Glad I mentioned the power steering pulley in your post at the other forum, OTF aka Econobox.
    Last edited by george16; 04-06-2012 at 09:27 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by george16 View Post
    I replaced all the pulleys. I went with an aluminum pulley for the water pump and power steering.

    I recommended VANOS seals too since it requires removal of the fan and shroud. If you forego that until summer, you will have to remove the fan and shroud again.

    Use Beisan VANOS DIY procedure for removing the fan and shroud. I guarantee that you'll be able to do it right since it was written for someone who does not have an idea on what he's doing. It is complete with pictures and was easy to comprehend.

    Glad I mentioned the power steering pulley in your post at the other forum, OTF aka Econobox.
    Which pulleys did you use?
    UUC, Rogue, etc...?

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    Which pulleys did you use?
    UUC, Rogue, etc...?
    I used URO's. It's aluminum so it's stronger than the plastic. I heard about not so good parts from URO but this is an aluminum pulley so......

  17. #17
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    I have the TMS UD pulleys. I didn't change the alt pulley, left the stock in (It's steel anyway)
    So far so good. The WP is underdriven, but it's the Stewart high performance pmp, which has probably stock flow right now, but less rpm. Monitored the OBC temp, since I installed them last year in summer sometime, and everything works extremely well.
    TMS are made of (high grade) aluminum and the finish is also nice.
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

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