I have a 1999 BMW Z3 roadster that the Drive-line makes clunking noise when accelerating. It sounds like it is hitting the bottom of the car when under power. I have replaced the front Flex Disc Driveshaft Cuibo coupler, bought new rear tires and shocks. I still have the noise. I took it in to the local shop not BMW, they said the drive shaft looked good. from reading the other forums I'm thinking it could be the carrier bearing in the middle of the drive line. Any other suggestions??
Thanks
Roadsterboy
Drive shaft u-joints are bad causing the center bearing to fail. Replace both.
Its just the CSB, very common at over 80K, no big deal. The actual CSB bearing is probably fine, its just that they mount it inside a rubber shock mount which gets flexible/sloppy over time.I've done several, I even filled the folds in the rubber with silicone to forestall future failures.
I did have the whole driveline replaced with a used one. Now I still have the same noise. Can I take the old one to a driveline specialist and have just the center carrier Bering replaced and if so where can i get one.
thanks
Roadsterboy
I recently replaced the flex disc, rear drive shaft, center support bearing, differential mount, and transmission mounts to try to make my driveline as good as possible.
I had that clunk, for the second time, and the typical shifting clunk that people experience. Changing all of these fixed both my problems, and hopefully the CSB won't go out on my again.
I think I may have had this recently too - was worried it was subframe or something.
What are the risks of driving with this?
It seems to happen when I hit the gas (when giving it no gas beforehand). Can hear it the most when shifting or when driving in my parking garage (2k rpm in 1st).
Last edited by yacob555; 08-05-2012 at 10:12 PM.
1979 320i Golf
2008 328i White on Black
2000 M Coupe Imola on Imola/Black.....Retired
1998 BMW 540i Auto Black on Black......Retired
I had this same issue. The noise is caused by a bad center support bearing. I replaced mine and it solved the problem, for about 10,000 miles until the CSB failed again. I know one of the local BMW dealer mechanics and he told me that about 75% of the CSBs that he replaces come back in about a year and end up with a driveline replacement. More often than not it's a bad U-joint that, over a short amount of time, causes the CSB to fail.
I replaced the driveline with a brand new one (email Vincent at Bimmerzone) and the problem was completely solved. Prior to buying the new one I called Bavarian Auto Recycling about their "remanufactured" drivelines. They told me the remanufacturing process was to replace the CSB. So, in other words, you have no idea how many miles were on the driveline, or if it was in decent shape, but it will outlast the 90 day warranty.
It's a piece of cake to replace the driveline. Easier than replacing the CSB. Pay the $700. It comes with a new quibo and CSB and you know it's fixed. JMHO
1997 Z3 2.8L Montreal Blue/Beige Ext. Leather.Hybrid Legatia L6 - Arc Audio 4150 XXK,Hybrid Legatia L1 Pro - Arc Audio KS300.4Image Dynamics ID8 - Arc Audio KS300.4Eclipse CD7100
Maybe a stupid question, but what is "CSB" ?
I'm In the same boat. I think I need to educate myself on this part of the car as I may have an issue.
1979 320i Golf
2008 328i White on Black
2000 M Coupe Imola on Imola/Black.....Retired
1998 BMW 540i Auto Black on Black......Retired
Y es ,I have never heard that word "CBS" .
Hmm, it was so simply, I feel a little stupid.
Thanks for info OUSHark.
Why doesn't mine make the noise all the time in 1st & 2nd? - i might drive it a week with out any clunk - it's a light clunk - with kind of a sucking sound if that makes any sense - I would think if i have a bad bearing or a bad u-joint it would make the clunk or sound all the time all the time - Car only has 27K miles on it and the PO babied the car what you thank? Also as other folks have said - it's only when I push in on the clutch to go into 1st & when I let out the clutch - also the same in second gear -
Thanks - guy's
Tom
Visit my Homepage, I have posted many pictures of some the motorcycles / cars I have owned & built over the years - http://www.picturetrail.com/tomhudson
Hmm, I'm hearing a clunk on every shift. Guibo was replaced last December...driveline was disconnected to do the Dinan diff fix. Wondering if a u-joint is going.
2018 X4 M40i
What is the risk and estimated time frame until said risk occurs?
1979 320i Golf
2008 328i White on Black
2000 M Coupe Imola on Imola/Black.....Retired
1998 BMW 540i Auto Black on Black......Retired
Couple of days ago I made a 400 mile trip to Tahoe & Reno - driving in mountains as well as in flat valleys - no clunk at all on the whole trip - This morning I took the car to the store about 3 miles away - no clunk - got in the car to come home & it was back - clunk - clunk at stop & goes but not all the time? I hate to chase ghost if this is what I have - I have spent good money chasing ghost at times in my life & I try not to do that anymore - If I take the car to my guy & he gets in it & the car doesn't make the clunk - how do you fix something that's not broke? This isn't a loud noise - well if I can hear it - it must be a little loud - What you think - drive it till it get worse? I just don't want to do any further damage - I would prefer not to have this issue - thanks - tom
Visit my Homepage, I have posted many pictures of some the motorcycles / cars I have owned & built over the years - http://www.picturetrail.com/tomhudson
Visit my Homepage, I have posted many pictures of some the motorcycles / cars I have owned & built over the years - http://www.picturetrail.com/tomhudson
The only way to properly evaluate the driveshaft is completely removed from the car so you can move all the joints and see if one is dry or loose and once its out if I found any U-joint issues I wouldnt replace just the CSB. I found a dry rear joint while doing some Diff work and replaced the whole thing. They are expensive and are not serviceable (no grease fittings) and the joints are staked in so you cant even change a U-joint. I went to a local driveline shop and they informed me there was one shop in CA that makes all these driveshafts and I ordered one for about $425 all the BMW online guys and even the OEM source these parts so find the best price you can and go. I would rule out the Trans mounts, motor mounts, Diff bushings anything that flexes going in gear and under torque even subframe bushings, the OEM parts hold up pretty well but some of the aftermarket ones will come apart eventually.
Visit my Homepage, I have posted many pictures of some the motorcycles / cars I have owned & built over the years - http://www.picturetrail.com/tomhudson
One thing about my driveline clunk was that when it started it was only VERY occasional. It would go a week or more before I noticed it again. Over a period of 6-8 month it slowly got worse. After a while I noticed that it did it primarily around 4k in 2nd gear after a turn. It continued to get worse to where it got much more pronounced, almost a deep, short grinding sound, and it would do it even without a turn.
Mine was bad enough that, even after I changed the CSB, there was still a VERY slight shudder at 4k in 2nd, but I didn't really notice for about 8,000 miles until it started getting worse again.
Finally, replacing the driveline fixed it completely and there is no shudder whatsoever.
Just wanted to post that in case it helps someone else diagnose theirs.
1997 Z3 2.8L Montreal Blue/Beige Ext. Leather.Hybrid Legatia L6 - Arc Audio 4150 XXK,Hybrid Legatia L1 Pro - Arc Audio KS300.4Image Dynamics ID8 - Arc Audio KS300.4Eclipse CD7100
Does anyone know the part number for the u-joints? Every part number i've found (like the BMWfans.info) says the u-joint is the same thing as the flex disc.
Don't think the u- joints are available , you may have to get an entire drive shaft.
Pardon my grammar and lack of smileys sent by the Nautilus using Bf.com
"My man did you simply get carried away with your dramatic gesture or were you pointing your water gun at me with lethal intentions ?"
U-joints are not replaceable, its all or nothing. Pricey but the only choice.
So are all these drive lines on the market re-builds? I assume thats about as good as new? If there all rebuilds I guess there just as good as the folks who rebuild them?
Visit my Homepage, I have posted many pictures of some the motorcycles / cars I have owned & built over the years - http://www.picturetrail.com/tomhudson
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