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Thread: Audiopipe subwoofer

  1. #1
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    My audio system is in need of some upgrades, while I won't be changing amps at this stage I will be replacing the front speakers and the sub woofer. Checking into threads I found a mention of audio pipe dual channel subwoofer. It seems likes a
    close fit and would be very similar to oem. Has anyone used this speaker?
    Last edited by greyerz; 03-14-2012 at 05:07 PM.

  2. #2
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    yeah that was probably me, it sounded pretty good once I replaced the amp - which was the cause of my problem. I decided to upgrade to 8 inch JL Audio in an integral audio - upward pointing sub enclosure driven by a 100w single channel amp. Before I took the Audiopipe out I tried it on new amp - probably wired in parallel since my new amp was single channel, it sounded good but nowhere the punch of the 8 inch JL Audio that's magnet is about 5x the weight..

    you must be aware that it is deeper than oem, so you have to cut the stock sub enclosure a bit and seal it, I would very interested to compare it to the Kicker CVT 6.5 that people use - sometimes with only one channel..
    Last edited by ZGator; 03-14-2012 at 08:31 PM.

    “Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为

  3. #3
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    Saw the speaker on eBay for35.00 shipped.going to give it a try. The depth seemed slightly larger than stock I was going to use foam tape under the mount area to seal the speaker and increase the depth of the box.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by greyerz View Post
    My audio system is in need of some upgrades, while I won't be changing amps at this stage I will be replacing the front speakers and the sub woofer.
    I hate to be a broken record here, but I strongly suggest you re-think your aversion to an aftermarket amp.

    You can do all the work in the trunk. All the wires are there behind the carpet. Easy to access and rather simple work all together. It should take you half a day tops to wire in the new amp if you have never done anything like that before.

    The amp is absolutely the weakest link.

    You can pick up new 4 channel amps starting at $50 on ebay. Yes, those aren't as nice as the $300 ones, however they are vastly superior to the OEM crap you have now.

    DWM put together a great chart explaining what the wire colors mean.


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpire

    I hate to be a broken record here, but I strongly suggest you re-think your aversion to an aftermarket amp.

    The amp is absolutely the weakest link
    +1 you really don't realize how bad the quality is until you replace the amp. The sub is only as good as the signal going into it.

  6. #6
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    I am intimidated by all the connections and although I love to change out the amps...I need a tutorial for the audio challenged. The most complex stereo install I have done was connect my Bose home system to my receiver. Channels, ohms, bridging dual amps are Greek to me. I'll read up on the install threads, but...

  7. #7
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    In all fairness, this is the easiest amp install. if you want to come over to my house with some sandwiches, I will help you do it.
    White is Right, Steel Grey is OK, but Estoril is the only color that truly matters.

    I like Coupes.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpire View Post
    In all fairness, this is the easiest amp install. if you want to come over to my house with some sandwiches, I will help you do it.
    LOL!!! So YOU"RE that guy I saw with the "Will work for food" sign the other day... Do you do subframe bushings?
    Last edited by dkindig; 03-15-2012 at 07:24 PM.

  9. #9
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    Will set fire to Z4s for food.
    White is Right, Steel Grey is OK, but Estoril is the only color that truly matters.

    I like Coupes.

  10. #10
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    ok i believe you and could work up the courage...but if this is a two amp system...replace with one or two units. Recommendations for after market units, reasonably priced...under 300.00 and a fairly straight forward install. Love to come over, but that would be a road trip.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpire View Post
    I hate to be a broken record here, but I strongly suggest you re-think your aversion to an aftermarket amp.

    DWM put together a great chart explaining what the wire colors mean.

    http://rfdm.com/Daniel/MRoadster/Upg...Connectors.gif
    would be a great diagram without all that red text and question marks...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by greyerz View Post
    ok i believe you and could work up the courage...but if this is a two amp system...replace with one or two units. Recommendations for after market units, reasonably priced...under 300.00 and a fairly straight forward install. Love to come over, but that would be a road trip.
    You really don't need the rear speakers.

    You can always buy a sub only amp later and install that as an upgrade.

    I would use 2 channels for the fronts, and 2 channels for the sub.

    Just get an inexpensive amp and set it up. You can spend large amounts of money later after you get super confident.

    I have done this install 5 times and its always pretty straight forward once you get into it.

    Here is an inexpensive 4 channel sony amp.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ony-XM-4S.html

    This is the 5 channel JL I have in my coupe.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o-XD700-5.html

    This is the amp I have in my roadster.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/JL-Audio-G45...#ht_500wt_1156

    You can pick out speakers for any price point.($40-$1000)

    They all sound dramatically better than stock, so even if you feel like you are cheaping out on the component, its still better than doing nothing.



    Just make sure the speakers have the crossovers so you can wire them up in the trunk. It really is pretty easy as long as you aren't color blind.
    Last edited by mpire; 03-16-2012 at 10:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  13. #13
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    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by mpire View Post
    Will set fire to Z4s for food.
    that's the best line i've ever read in a forum!!!


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonvan View Post
    +1 you really don't realize how bad the quality is until you replace the amp. The sub is only as good as the signal going into it.
    +1 ...weak signal = weak sound.

    I don't have a CD changer so I decided heck why not slip in a mono block amp. It's super easy. Do it!



  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stainless Steel View Post
    +1 ...weak signal = weak sound.

    I don't have a CD changer so I decided heck why not slip in a mono block amp. It's super easy. Do it!


    He has a roadster.

    Its much easier in a roadster.

    Just remove 4 or 5 grommets and the carpet comes right out.

  16. #16
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    Not sure exactly what you're looking into, but I have a shallow 10" in a custom box with 300w in the trunk, sounds good but takes up a good bit of trunk space. Kenwood head unit, Rockford sub and Pioneer amp but the rest is stock. My stock subs died years before I bought then car.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stainless Steel View Post
    +1 ...weak signal = weak sound.

    I don't have a CD changer so I decided heck why not slip in a mono block amp. It's super easy. Do it!
    What amp are you running on the top? I have a CD changer and don't want to give it up. Wouldn't mind replacing the stock amp with something better but I'm also an audio wiring noob like some others in this thread.

  18. #18
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    Mpire thanks for the great input. Pulled the carpets out on examined the project a little closer. This is doable but I will need to read more. A couple of questions off the top. How is the power to the new amps controlled? In the wiring diagram are all the wires with question marks irrelevant to the rewire?
    By the way I like the sony amp, it is a good price with decent power. Speakers also look good, pricing out this project I could do a nice upgrade for under 600.00. That is right in my range for this fair weather car.

  19. #19
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    I have my amp run with 4AWG wire from the battery and then grounded to the rear ground bolt, white wire off one of the harnesses turns the amp on like factory, then its just a few wires for the speakers. I bought RCA plugs that you crimp on and plug into the amp.

    I know zero about car audio and it took me an afternoon, I have the x-overs where the factory amp was and the JL XD700/5 where the CD changer was.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by greyerz View Post
    Mpire thanks for the great input. Pulled the carpets out on examined the project a little closer. This is doable but I will need to read more. A couple of questions off the top. How is the power to the new amps controlled? In the wiring diagram are all the wires with question marks irrelevant to the rewire?
    By the way I like the sony amp, it is a good price with decent power. Speakers also look good, pricing out this project I could do a nice upgrade for under 600.00. That is right in my range for this fair weather car.
    Great diagram but I was wondering the same about the unknown wires.


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  21. #21
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    I made this a couple years ago doing my install...



    Does this wire labeling help identifying the missing?


  22. #22
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    ^ this man helped me through my install, he is AWESOME and the excel spreadsheet is fantastic.

  23. #23
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    I just ordered the Sony amp for $129 I mean how could I not?!?
    Thanks Mpire

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  24. #24
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    I'm new here, just bought the wife a 1996 Z3 Roadster. The stereo is terrible and I am looking into an upgrade. As far as I can tell I don't have an amp and there are only the kick panel speakers and tweeters in the doors.

    Anybody have a pin out of the original Alpine stereo? I haven't done a car stereo since I was a teenager back in the 80's. Should I replace the kick panel speakers with a pair of coaxials or do I need to get some component speakers with crossovers? I believe I will have to replace the HU, I don't want to dump a bunch into this project, I just want to have some reasonable music and maybe Ipod compatibility.

    I was thinking I might be able to get by without an amp and sub initially.

  25. #25
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    The stereo were enhanced a bit after 96, adding amps and subs, sounds like you have a very basic one. The best bang for your buck would probably be a new head unit that drives component speakers (woofer, tweeter, xover) up front only.

    “Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为

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