I am looking to get an aluminum floor jack in the 1.5 to 2.0 ton range. Anyone have any good experiences with one?
Harbor Freight makes some actually decent aluminum jacks. The cheapest one is about $59 on sale, and lifts to about 14", not that high but its great for oil changes and changing tires. For $129 they have one that lifts to 18" I believe. The small one is about 35 lbs so its very easy to carry and handle.
As always, once the car is up in the air, be sure to set it down on top of some quality jackstands. Never use the jack alone!
You can also search on the forum for "harbor freight jack" its been talked about plenty.
The Sears aluminum jack is good.
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Probably the same Chinese jack Harbor Freight sells.
HF currently has the aluminum rapid pump model on sale for $69.
I bought one a while back after decades using a 50# service jack. This thing is a flyweight, does the same job and lifts quicker. We'll see if it lasts 30 years, or I do.
I've had one of the HF ones for a while now (the smaller one I believe), no issues with regular home DIYer use.
As always, whenever you're under the car, throw a jack stand under it too. These jacks can and do fail.
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The only disadvantage of a HF jack would be a possibly higher failure rate. Buy the warranty for 6 bucks and if it breaks, they give you a new one. Safety shouldn't be an issue as you should NEVER be under a car without jackstands.
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Which Torin aluminum jack did hyou get?
Pittsburg low profile harbor freight jack for 59.95 is the BEST jack for the money, its cheap light and I have been using many of them in my shop....
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I have one HF 1.5 ton $60 aluminum jack that is 5 years old now. I like it so much I bought another one over a year ago. Both are doing great. I did have to replace a caster on the older one a couple of years ago. If money is not an object, a name brand jack is probably better. Sears, Torin, etc -- check Northern Tool and other catalogs for brand names and specs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/interes...ump-68052.html
I bought this with a 3 year warranty and its ridiculously good. Super light, quick lift, and is very smooth bringing the car down. Dont go small IMO, the bigger one fits further under the car and lifts higher when needed.
I bought a 3 ton aluminum craftsman two years ago and it's still working well. It doesn't raise the car as fast as the other jack I have - AFF 2 ton steel jack but the sears jack allows for easier modulation when lowering the car. The AFF is a double pumper model vs the single for the craftsman. I'm pretty happy with both. I will say that it's good to have a jack with a rubber lifting pad though (which the craftsman does not have). If I didn't have either I would go for a HF or OTC jack. Double pumper jacks are pretty good though.
This is the one I have...I thought it was a good value.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...1974_200221974
I hate to bump this back from the dead but....
you guys that are using the aluminum jacks...does the jack fit under your lowered cars?
98 Fern Green M3/2 - Precision 6870/AR Designs Twin Scroll/RK/E85
2017 Toyota Tundra Crewmaxx - Family Whip
2011 Pierce 75' Quint - Fire Apparatus West Islip FD
Depends on the height and length of the jack.
I have a 03 540iA with the full M-Tech treatment, so there is only 4" under my belly pan. Any jack I use, I have either put one or both wheels on ramps, or lift one corner then either use a jackstand or place some pieces of wood under a tire and lower the car on it. For either method, then move the jack to the center jack point and lift the entire front end. Then do that all again to get it down.
Short answer: You need to first drive up on a plank, even with low profile jack.
Any not use ramps?? What length jack to get to jack block under engine??
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1793560
Driveway DIY: Ideal way to lift the car? (Jack stands, service jacks, trolley, etc)
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1758233
TOOLS
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...92&postcount=2
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Just measure the lowest point on your car, and make sure you get a jack that is shorter. I have the Craftsman aluminum racing jack and I used to have the Harbor Freight ones and they all fit under lowered cars. Slammed? You'll need a 2x10 to drive on for any jack to work.
I have OTC Aluminum Racing Jack Kit . This is a really nice high end all aluminum floor jack. You tend to get what you pay for here. It is very easy to move around and you can get it up to full height in just 5 or 6 quick pumps. What a really nice design here by OTC products on this two-ton floor jack.The best thing about this jack was how incredibly lightweight it is. It is made of mostly heavy duty aluminum construction
I use the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton Jack's that go on sale for $59. Had some for years. If you don't need portability, buy a bigger one but you will pay more. I have a 3 ton steel jack that came from Sam's club about 10 years ago. Says Michelin on it but it's a $79 Chinese jack. Works great. HF sells steel jacks as well.
I was going to get one of the HF aluminum jacks just so I had something lighter to drag around in the car when I need it remotely (such as working at work rather than home).
Anyway, I checked all the aluminum offerings out, including the lowest price model (which I think was 1-ton). It is still rather heavy...
I ended up going with the (less expensive) steel small jack. It is also lighter than the smallest aluminum one. Only $60 and 1.5 ton I think (maybe only 1 ton but unless you are lifting all four wheels off the ground, you probably don't need a 2-ton jack).
Now I have a 5 ton I think bottle jack in the Land Rover and a 2 or 3 ton floor jack rolling around the house for work at home. Those are both steel and quite heavy.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that. HF doesn't push the cheap-o steel jack; I suspect they make more margin on the "aluminum race jacks".
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This is a great point, mine is approximately 3.25" from ground right now, no Jack slides under, requires a platform or ramp. I bought the schwaben insert Jack arm, but you need the soft rubber pad on the Jack and the insert kills another 1" on lift. For some time now, I use the stock single post Jack lift it a little too get the quick Jack under, prop the engine rail under the belly, which is closer to the middle of the car and then prop the outer point. It's a bit of a Jimmy, but it works and it's safe.
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