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Thread: Spark plug change on M30B30

  1. #1
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    Spark plug change on M30B30

    Hi there,

    despite extensive googlīing on how to change spark plugs on the E32 M30 I am not yet fully clear on how to do it step-by-step. I own a 730iL and donīt wanna mess up the whole engine compartment. From what I already understood is that I need to remove the air filter housing top and bottom; and MAF sensor as well, right? What more do I have to remove?

    I didnīt find any step-by-step DYI instructions yet; even Bentley repair manual doesnīt cover it. On an M60B40 V8 itīs an easy task for me, but I donīt want to mess up my 730iL which is like brand new with its 16 tkm on odometer.

    Please advise,
    Achim

  2. #2
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    Achim, that is probably that easy that no one ever thought to make a write up about this.
    I only know it from the V12 M70 and that is a real pain in the a...
    Takes more than 2 hours, but a M30 should be easy to do.
    But the shop manual might help if there is nothing in the Bentley
    http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/Index_cd3.htm

    yep, found it, section 12-12/1

    ohh well, they just say: disconnect ignition lead and unscrew the spark plug
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Achim, that is probably that easy that no one ever thought to make a write up about this.
    I only know it from the V12 M70 and that is a real pain in the a...
    I know this from your docs about it. Most people write instructions for the V8 as well, but changing the spark plugs on the V8 is really straight-forward IMHO. I know I sound stupid, but the V8 is easy in comparison to the R6, jaja.

    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Takes more than 2 hours, but a M30 should be easy to do.
    But the shop manual might help if there is nothing in the Bentley
    http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/Index_cd3.htm

    yep, found it, section 12-12/1

    ohh well, they just say: disconnect ignition lead and unscrew the spark plug
    I found this manual already including this appropriate section: Well, they could just leave out this sparse comment for the R6 īcause thatīs really obvious.

    Ok, if the weather permits on weekends, I will look into my sunny engine compartment and will give it a try. My only fear is to ruin this showroom condition car (has less than original 17.000 kilometers on its odometer).

    Thanks and kind regards,
    Joachim

  4. #4
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    Just searched a bit more, for the M60 Tim Meek has a detailed write up


    BMW E31, E32 AND E38 V8 SPARKPLUG REMOVAL
    MISFIRE REPAIRS (M60-M62)

    http://www.meeknet.co.uk/E32/Plugs/Index.htm

    and here
    Spark Plug Change -- A Pictorial
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/4789
    and here
    http://www.unitedbimmer.com/forums/b...-test-diy.html
    http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...park-Plugs.htm

    anyway, no info for M30, seems to be too easy.
    Most important for you is to check the banjo bolts

    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm

    you can also make clips like these
    http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=...BTFYh4l5k2TGxc
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...rbanjobolt.jpg
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...oltmounted.jpg
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...tsidephoto.jpg
    Zeichnung zum selber machen
    http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/j...etdrawing4.jpg
    Last edited by shogun; 03-09-2012 at 09:16 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    anyway, no info for M30, seems to be too easy.
    I will prove the opposite: I am just back from my garage and just gave it up. This is how my engine compartment looks like:

    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0243.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0235.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0236.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0240.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0238.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0241.jpg
    http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/...o/CIMG0237.jpg

    I just broke my fingers and gave it up for the moment. Tomorrow is said to become a sunny day. So, if anyone can assist in what parts to disassemble and in which order to do it then I am willing to give it another try tomorrow... . Man, the V8 is just a piece of cake in comparision to this R6.

    Thanks, Erich, for all your links, but from what I understand I have a classical M30B30 engine which needs some special treatment to get down to the spark plugs.

    Kind regards from Germany,
    Joachim

    P.P.: Regarding the banjo bolts I didnīt get your point yet, but Iīll do more investigation on what way these will affect the exchange procedure of my old spark plugs.

  6. #6
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    checking the banjo bolts: I just wanted to mention that this should be included in your inspection this weekend, when you do the spark plugs. The sooner the better.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  7. #7
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    All you have to remove to change the sparkplugs on your engine is the cold air filter box.

    After that you can access all 6 sparkplugs easily using the spark plug removal tool found in the toolbox in the trunk.

    FYI I found the OEM Bosch copper sparkplugs performed better than the platinum ones... the engine was misfireing with Platinum plugs

    The one thing that confused me was that the new plugs had to have the terminal connectors unscrewed from them just leaving the thread.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, both, for your advice.

    I have bought the genuine BMW spark plugs recommended for my VIN. In my case itīs part no. 12 12 9 061 869; they are actually Bosch W8LCR spark plugs, though.

  9. #9
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    The W8LCR plugs are the copper ones and the correct ones for the m30.
    As stated above, all you really have to remove is the airbox and bellow from the air flow meter. If you have different length extensions, those will help. Just be sure to use anti seize on the threads of the plugs and start them with your fingers turning the extension. Once they're started and you're sure they're not cross threaded, then use the ratchet. My plug socket does not have the rubber insert, so it's alittle balancing act to get the plugs out of the holes, but it's easier than having the socket stick to the plug.
    I would definetly check the banjo bolts, but let's see how the plugs go first.
    Is there a reason you are changing the plugs with so few miles?

  10. #10
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    Sorry to hijack this thread. I'm new to this engine. I also have the M30 looking to do the spark plugs, for no other reason than I bought it a month ago and just want to clean everything up. What are the banjo bolts for, where are they, and why should I inspect them.

    Thanks.

  11. #11
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    http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/banjo.htm
    The cam/rocker arm oil spray bar bolts have a history of loosening on the m30 big-6 and the m70 V-12 BMW engines, causing reduced or loss of lubrication which leads to premature wear/failure of the cam lobes, rocker arms, valve stems. BMW issued a "fix" with a revised bolt with a patch of TuflokŪ nylon thread locker applied to them but even when used and installed under the best conditions, they too can loosen on their own before the next valve clearance adjustment is due. Put your mind at ease and solve the problem once and for all by using banjo bolts with cross-drilled heads, and safety tie wire
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  12. #12
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    Hate to be stupid about this, I assume I can see these on the outside of the engine? I dont have to take anything off do i? I'm not home and cant see the engine to look at. Where should it be? Thanks.

  13. #13
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    You have to remove the rocker/valve cover. They're right on top. You can't miss the oil spray bar.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by m735is View Post
    Is there a reason you are changing the plugs with so few miles?
    No, only reason would be that the old ones are more than 22 years old and seem to be due to me. Is that a wrong assumption? If so, I can let the old ones in, of course.

    The Association for Technical Inspection (that is the Technical Control Board named "TÜV" in Germany) will do an exhaust gas analysis end of May this year again (due every 2 years in Germany). Therefore I thought it could be a good idea to exchange the spark plugs after 22 years of age... .

  15. #15
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    o.k., brand new, spark plug change on M30 E34 535 with pics and garden hose as tool ;-) http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showt...026#post348026
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  16. #16
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    Shogun, The spark plugs I am using, Bosch W8LCR+, has a gap of 0.8mm. bmwe4.net suggests that for the M30 the gap is set to 0.86 - 0.91 'to improve idling'.
    Have you had a similar experience increasing the plug gap? Does it really help?

    Car in question: 1991 South African 535i M30B34.

  17. #17
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    There someone with an M30 has to reply, I have an M70 engine.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricky318i View Post
    Shogun, The spark plugs I am using, Bosch W8LCR+, has a gap of 0.8mm. bmwe4.net suggests that for the M30 the gap is set to 0.86 - 0.91 'to improve idling'.
    Have you had a similar experience increasing the plug gap? Does it really help?
    Car in question: 1991 South African 535i M30B34.
    I have never purposely gaped the spark plugs larger on an M30 engine. I have always run them at stock gap (0.8mm). However, I remember that I once measured the gap of a set of used spark plugs, and it was about 0.9mm.
    Obviously, during the lifetime of a spark plug the electrodes wear and the gap increases. I did not notice improved idle with the 0.9mm gaped plugs - but this may not be really relevant, considering that those plugs were at the end of their service life.
    It may be that setting a larger gap on a set of brand new spark plugs may improve idling. On the other hand, a smaller gap helps when the engine operates at high RPM.
    I assume that a larger gap would put more strain on distributor cap and rotor, but I guess that ~0.1mm larger would not really hurt.
    If you test larger gap, then it would be great to report back here about how it works and how noticeable is the improvement.

    Based on my experience, on M30 engine one can improve both idle and performance by carefully setting the valve lash at 0.30mm for intake and 0.33mm for exhaust (compared to 0.30mm for all valves, as indicated by BMW).
    Regarding the spark plugs, I was very happy with NGK ZGR5A V-Line.
    Last edited by RobertRO; 07-16-2018 at 06:51 AM.
    --
    1994 E32 730i M30 manual
    ex- 2006 E86 Z4M Coupe
    ex- 1986 E28 535i

  19. #19
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    Thanks for the suggestions!

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