What is the "standard" (if there is such a thing) bore that BMW uses for it's clutch master cylinders? I'm trying to get an idea of what my Z4 clutch master is (without taking it apart). Reason I ask is that I have always liked the feeling of a 7/8" bore master with the LS1 slave (quick yet not heavy).
Thanks,
Chris
The E36 M3 master is 3/4". That's the only data point I can offer.
John
E36 LS3
That's a start. thanks. I'll go cross reference and see if PERHAPS they are comparable in the aftermarket.
I should add, I am running an aftermarket 7/8" master in a dedicated track car. The majority of the LSx conversion E36s I'm aware of are happy with the stock master. At least on the street or dual purpose cars.
John
E36 LS3
Where is your master mounted (is it in the engine compartment or under the dash)?
I have personally found the 7/8 just feels better. It's a touch heavier but makes a shorter/crisper release (for me).
Under the dash in place of the original. However, it does require a custom mounting bracket and a compact master due to space constraints.
John
E36 LS3
I was going to use a wilwood master under the dash. What did you use? Any pics?
If you go into conti-online you can see all the details of the cylinders:
http://www.conti-online.com/generato..._parts_en.html
Click on brake parts then Catalogues, 'parts' and then you can search for your vehicle.
Looks like 3/4" bore.
this is what i pulled off of Tongboy's thread:
The bore diameter of the stock e36 clutch master cylinder
.716" is the bore diameter
it puts it somewhere between the 5/16" & 3/4" aftermarket master cylinders.
it's 18.11mm.
The stock master is fine for 95% of the people in this forum. I can see the need for the 7/8" at certain times...But I think I might drive a little harder then most. Drift days, HPDE, Etc.
As I said, it's just a personal preference for me. I have always been very happy with a 7/8" bore master when using the internal LS1 slave (it just feels right to me). It does take a bit more force, but I'm 5'5" so I like the release to be higher so I don't have to stroke the pedal as far.
Chris
With enough money and more importantly fabrication skills anything can be done!
the pedal effort with stock master and gm clutch is very light, other than swapping out for an aftermarket is there a way to increase pedal effort? Like swapping a master from another bmw model that happens to use a different bore? Just trying to weigh my options
I find the clutch pedal too soft and since I will be replacing the master in a pedal box conversion, I was curious what MC sizes have been used to firm up a pedal.
I have read guys are going next size up for 3/4 to 7/8 is that correct? I would think this would depend on the bore of the slave on the ts6 vs z3?
Little knowledge is dangerous.....
00 MZ3 with LS2 /T56 swap (425rwhp/404Torq corrected to SAE), with oil cooler and 3 qt accusump, TCK DA, , 1.75 in Vorshlag Headers, RD Sways, Dinan Upper Strut, Turner Brake Cooling with Stainless Lines, DTC90 Pads, Fidanza LTW Fly Wheel and LS7 clutch and pressure plate, Hurst Shifter Hamann Kit, Digi tec Wing, Full grand am style cage from Deman MotorSports, New Age radiator, Lower temp alum thermostat, center 75d FCAB, Rear Camber and Toe plates, AKG 75d bushings throughout , SLR Roll Center / Bump Steer Correction kit, Turn one power steering pump and cooler, Rogue Rear Strut mounts, TCK Camber Plates, 18x10.5 wheels with Hoosier R6, Rogue Dual-Ear diff, Randy Forbe Reinforced Diff Mounts, adjustable sway bar end links, 500/700 springs, Custom Advanced Motorsports carbon fiber hood, carbon fiber roof, bumper cover, splitter and Dive Planes, Pole Position, lexan Windows, PBR C6 z 6 piston calipers with C6z rotors,custom dual master cylinder pedal box...
Thanks - Schitzo shared this post with me... I was thinking of running a 1 inch as well - so I appreciate your post. I should be able to choose a pedal for clutch on pedal box that will not effect this. Going to call Tilton this week. At least now I have a good base to work from.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1&postcount=24
00 MZ3 with LS2 /T56 swap (425rwhp/404Torq corrected to SAE), with oil cooler and 3 qt accusump, TCK DA, , 1.75 in Vorshlag Headers, RD Sways, Dinan Upper Strut, Turner Brake Cooling with Stainless Lines, DTC90 Pads, Fidanza LTW Fly Wheel and LS7 clutch and pressure plate, Hurst Shifter Hamann Kit, Digi tec Wing, Full grand am style cage from Deman MotorSports, New Age radiator, Lower temp alum thermostat, center 75d FCAB, Rear Camber and Toe plates, AKG 75d bushings throughout , SLR Roll Center / Bump Steer Correction kit, Turn one power steering pump and cooler, Rogue Rear Strut mounts, TCK Camber Plates, 18x10.5 wheels with Hoosier R6, Rogue Dual-Ear diff, Randy Forbe Reinforced Diff Mounts, adjustable sway bar end links, 500/700 springs, Custom Advanced Motorsports carbon fiber hood, carbon fiber roof, bumper cover, splitter and Dive Planes, Pole Position, lexan Windows, PBR C6 z 6 piston calipers with C6z rotors,custom dual master cylinder pedal box...
Sure thing. For reference, in the old 98-02 f-bodies (which our T56s mostly come from), the aftermarket mcleod direct swap master is 7/8" bore. When I had my 01 Z28 this master worked but it was still very soft (for my tastes) and occasionally had issue when the fluid got hot. I came to believe that 7/8" just does not have the extra "reserve" capacity to deal with hot/thinning clutch fluid. The 1" bore gives that little extra buffer to ensure the slave gets full stroke.
That setup you posted is really slick (going in my reference folder)!
The Tilton masters are nice but just so expensive!
I have always just used Wilwood masters on my projects, but I'm interested to see how your final adaptation comes out. Please post.
Chris
I've got a full size Wilwood 7/8" master that I'm going to mock up in my e36, but from posts I've read I suspect it's not going to fit and I'm going to have to get a compact one.
You need a compact slave if you want to make it fit. You can see it in the link above and here are the pics under the dash of my car with the Wilwood compact slave. Its tight in there..
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3&postcount=99
John
John
E36 LS3
don't forget master cylinder size isn't the only part of the equation - ratio and arm movement is also important.
My swap thread detailed a few different masters in the stock location and how well they worked or didn't with the ls7 clutch
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Good point. I guess I'll be watching for a master as well (in addition to LS6, supercharger, LS7 clutch, etc).
Chris
I am looking for a 1 inch master cylinder for a 95 bmw 318 is , can anyone help
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