The ULTIMATE US OEM Keyless/Alarm Thread

[onesikM]

I knew this was too good to be true and the day is finally back. One afternoon when I was bored about 5 years ago when I first acquired my current 94 m3 I replaced the battery in my alarm fob. My car has the 3 button system and after about an hour or two of messing with it and replacing the battery I was successfully able to get one of my alarm fobs to communicate with the main brain and I was done! Never bothered programming my spare key fob since the spare remote did not have that small sd card size chip included in it. Everything’s been working smooth for a few years until today. The first thing I was thinking happened was my chip fell out and I just thought I need to push it back in…..that’s not it

So for what ever reason I think i ruined the main alarm receiver but are they that fragile ? I removed my glove box today, to get access to run some wires for gauges and a fan thru my dashboard. Somehow during the process either I’ve unplugged something that I’m not seeing right away, which I highly doubt because Iam very careful when working on this car especially when doing anything with wires and electrical. That’s why I have reason to believe something took a trip down south like I think my hand may have bumped into the alarm unit and it’s held on by Velcro tape when the dealer installed it back in the day and it came off the Velcro and bounced on my carpet and I just let it stay there until I was done running my new wires thru the firewall.

Now that I’m trying to clean up the car and call it a night , I noticed doors aren’t locking when using the key fob. I’ve seriously tried almost everything I can think of. Next I’m going to try and leave the batter disconnected overnight to let the system drain so maybe I can get the alarm to talk with fob again to try and program and sync. Where does this single white connector plug into ? I’ve heard people saying it’s for the hood, perhaps his came out if it’s place. Can someone help me with its confirming how much voltage should get going thru the fused yellow power wire? I’m seeing something just under 2.5volts !?!?! Isn’t that supposed to be constant battery power feeding the alarm ? Which also means I should be able to relearn the chip while the car is off too right ?

This is such a trip man. I want to just yank it all out and start fresh if there’s an easier option these days because I’ve spent over 6 hours on my own before typing up this Very lengthy post. Tell me something that might help that I’m overlooking. I’ve also read this entire thread. Only thing I have left to try it plugging in this single white connector which you guys say is the hood switch. And I want to say mine was plugged it always

[CosmoSnake]

Not sure if anyone still checks in on this. I just picked up a 2 button setup for my 95 M3. Can't get the LED to light up during the fob pairing sequence. I went through programming with just to see if my LED was dead and it didn't work, so I'm going to check my hood/trunk switches. I was just wondering what the single pin black/blue connector is that comes out by the 12 pin and the white 4 pin (i believe) coming out around the middle of harness. I know one is hood switch but from what I've read it is not needed on 95 model year and you just need to plug in the 12 pin. Thanks!

[lolofett]

I found my 3 button remote and got it working.(1993 325is) Car locks and unlocks no problem. When setting the alarm it will goes off after about five seconds. Does anyone know where to start to find out what the issue may be the causes the alarm to go off. I'm sure it's a process of elimination of the micro switches but I thought I would ask just in case someone else has been down this road. The hood switch has been disconnected. Any input would be appreciated.

i’m having the same issues right now. were you able to figure out why it was happening?

[onesikM]

Anyone who’s struggling programming his or her alarm might be having the same issue I dealt with for about 2 years. It was earlier this summer that I resolved this issue and finally got my alarm to begin working once again like it had been prior. It was a silly thing to overlook but it’s not discussed obviously or I just must have overlooked the key element throughout reading and going thru all the posts related to alarm troubleshooting! Trust I had nearly given up. I was under the impression all my alarm systems were just duds because I had acquired a collection over the last few years hoping I would get lucky with a fob and brain pair miraculously lol. I one day had another e36 next to mine to test side by side and see if my alarm worked in another car and once it did I was happy to keep on hunting for solution. And I knew mine worked up until the day I was doing work under the dash and lightly bumping into the brain caused it to trip out. As most of you know there is a fuse on the yellow power wire on the alarm harness between the black and green connector leads. But what i never heard talked about was the main power fuse which is hidden. I’m guessing this was hidden to detour thieves from finding its location and dissembling the system quicker idk. But the electronic troubleshooting manual pointed me in the direction of “fuse 47” which is supposedly located under the passenger side glovebox, I don’t know if I misunderstood the literature incorrectly or if this was done intentionally to throw people off from finding the fuse location but basically you need to turn into an acrobat and get way up under the driver side of the dash near the clutch pedal area up near the firewall. You are looking for a blue 15amp fuse. I would have never found it honestly and given up hope at all his point had I not had the help of my scope. Change that fuse and see if your alarm synching troubles become a walk in the park here’s a image from the scopes camera hope that helps someone

IMG_9640.jpg


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[TowJamma]

Awesome



Needs a like button.