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Thread: The ULTIMATE US OEM Keyless/Alarm Thread

  1. #301
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    2001 540i
    Bumping up an old thread.

    So a 95 siren wont work on a 98 328i E36 even though the plugs are the same:

    https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1792200-The-ULTIMATE-US-OEM-Keyless-Alarm-Thread/page3

    2012-07-23_18-18-26_934.jpg

    Are there any other later sirens that are compatible with the US two buttons remotes?

    Z3?

    My siren gave out. Brought a used one (82111469447) it works but the sounds is like a 3rd of the original in terms of volume.

    My feeling is that replacement siren is on its way out!

    Has anyone tried to repair the siren?

    I dont think the dealer sells them anymore.
    Last edited by Javier H; 01-16-2019 at 02:53 PM.

  2. #302
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    1999 BMW M3 Convertible
    assuming the FCC number matches my original fob, but the back says Canada, can I assume it will be compatible? From your previous post you said half the canadian PARTS were USA and half euro.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  3. #303
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    E36
    Another thread bump.

    Installed my 3 button style a few years back. Other than the chip coming loose from the fob sometimes, have had no issues.

    Yesterday, I go to lock and I get nothing. The fob is lighting up, I recently had the chip come loose again and it was fine after fixing it.

    Where do I start?
    BMW CCA Illini Chapter Vice President
    1995 M3
    - My Favorite DIY's and FAQ's



  4. #304
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    1988 325 Super ETA
    Quote Originally Posted by Moron95M3 View Post
    Another thread bump.

    Installed my 3 button style a few years back. Other than the chip coming loose from the fob sometimes, have had no issues.

    Yesterday, I go to lock and I get nothing. The fob is lighting up, I recently had the chip come loose again and it was fine after fixing it.

    Where do I start?
    I would start with another chip if you got one, or another fob if you got one, and program it to your receiver.

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
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    VA
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    2000 Z3; X3, 430i
    Anyone know if a control unit Part Number 82111469445

    Will work with a 2000 Z3 2.8?

    thanks!

  6. #306
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    '98 M3 'Vert '07 328xit
    OK. I admit I've only read through page 6, but I think I have a different issue.

    Just installed a 3 button fob on my 98 M3. When I push the lock/unlock, I get one chirp, the locks lock, then I immediately get 3 chirps and everything unlocks.

    I've disconnected the hood switch and manually triggerd both doors (vert) and the trunk switches - same behavior.

    I have noticed that the relay on the harness seems to click *a lot* - but before I try just replacing that, I thought I'd see if anyone here can shed any light.

    Thanks!

    EJT

  7. #307
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    1988 325 Super ETA
    What about the trunk switch?

    Quote Originally Posted by morzada View Post
    OK. I admit I've only read through page 6, but I think I have a different issue.

    Just installed a 3 button fob on my 98 M3. When I push the lock/unlock, I get one chirp, the locks lock, then I immediately get 3 chirps and everything unlocks.

    I've disconnected the hood switch and manually triggerd both doors (vert) and the trunk switches - same behavior.

    I have noticed that the relay on the harness seems to click *a lot* - but before I try just replacing that, I thought I'd see if anyone here can shed any light.

    Thanks!

    EJT

  8. #308
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    Yeah, I've depressed that with my finger too - same response.

  9. #309
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    1988 325 Super ETA
    Quote Originally Posted by morzada View Post
    Yeah, I've depressed that with my finger too - same response.
    With these switches the circuits are closed if a door/trunk/hood is opened right?

  10. #310
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    '98 M3 'Vert '07 328xit
    yes, I believe so. That is why you can unhook the hood switch and th me system still works fine.

  11. #311
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    1996 BMW Z3
    Very informative, but why are the pictures blurry ? Anyway to clarify those ?
    Idahored
    Mtn Home, Idaho
    1996 BMW Z3 Roadster
    convertible

  12. #312
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    6/96 318is
    Quote Originally Posted by idahored View Post
    Very informative, but why are the pictures blurry ? Anyway to clarify those ?
    You probably should confirm this, but it appears Photobucket has been blurring the pictures of free accounts that use more than 25 Mbytes of storage.

  13. #313
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    1996 BMW Z3
    Ok, thanks
    Idahored
    Mtn Home, Idaho
    1996 BMW Z3 Roadster
    convertible

  14. #314
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    High Point, NC
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    98 Dinan M Roadster

    Continuing Problem with Alarm 1998 Z3

    I have carefully followed the instructions multiple times but when finished I continue to get three chirps. The LED works per the instructions as do all of the other chirps. I have the hood switch disconnected. I have owned the car for a year or so now and it worked when I first got the car. Any ideas?

    THANKS SO MUCH





    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    EDIT: 11/2012 - I edited this post with some new info I discovered. The link I had to the 2 button fob programming led to some instructions that were incorrect. I have changed the link so it leads to programming instructions that work correctly. I also discovered that a single 2 button fob can be programmed to work on more than one control module at the same time. More info on this is under "How It All Works".

    Questions about the US Spec OEM alarm/keyless come up all the time. Here are all the details on both systems that were used, including programing instructions. The US alarm/keyless system is completely different than the Euro version. I can't speak for Canada or any other country. This only applies to US E36's

    If you think you might have one of these installed from a previous owner I can tell you the big 'give away" sign will be the red LED right in front of the shifter. If you see one of those then pull the glovebox out and see if you can see the control module. You can't miss it with it's bright green harness connector. Be aware that Ive seen cars outfitted with lots of options that fill up those slots in front of the shifter. In this case they install an LED above the headlight switch so look for that too.

    BMW used 2 Alpine alarm/keyless systems on the e36. The first used a 3 button fob the later version used a 2 button fob. The cutoff was sometime in the 96/97 model year. It was a dealer installed option. Your car came prewired from the factory with a connector behind the glovebox and a hood switch in the engine bay. The dealer installed the control module, LED and Horn/Siren. More on the horn/siren later. Almost all US e36's came prewired for this option. You can look in the trunk and you'll see this button.

    As long as your car is prewired you can use either system. Ive installed both systems in a 95 even though it was supposed to get the 3 button system. Ive seen the 3 button system installed in a 98 even though it was supposed to get the 2 button system. All cars that were supposed to get the 3 button system will have a small cage next to the A/C dryer. That cage has the horn for the alarm. You can unplug the horn and connect an electronic siren. I've seen the horn/siren connector back next to the "B" post and I've seen it tucked up under the radiator support just above the passenger headlight. It all depends on the year/model. Only the 3 button system is capable of using the horn. If you take it out, the horn is identical to the ones on the other side of the car that go off when you press the horn button inside the car. The alarm horn is comletely separate and it can be removed without affecting the other horns.

    Each system will work with just the control module installed. The LED and horn/siren don't need to be installed and the hood switch doesn't need to be connected. More on the hood switch a bit later.

    Whichever unit you use you will need to match the control module to the correct fob. You can't mix and match them. Each unit has its own harness too. These can't be mixed and matched. In fact the green connector on each harness is a different size so you can't even try to make them work. Looking at the module itself will instantly tell you which fob you need. The three button module has a small door on the back and a dip switch on the end of it but, just to be sure look, at the FCC ID number on the back of the module. If its number A269ZUA070 then you need a 3 button fob with FCC ID number A269ZUA071. If the FCC ID number is A269ZUA110 then you need a 2 button fob with FCC ID number A269ZUA111. If the FCC ID number isn't visible then just look at the control module itself. It is physically different.

    THE PARTS:

    2 Button Complete Setup


    3 Button Complete Setup


    2 Button Fob


    2 Button FCC ID


    3 Button Fob


    Siren


    Horn Cage


    Harness Connnector Location


    Control Module Location


    Hood Switch


    Trunk Button


    2 Button Control Module FCC ID


    3 Button Control Module End


    3 Button Control Module FCC ID





    ABOUT FOBS:

    You absolutely have to have the correct fob for the module. It must have the correct FCC ID number. There are lots of pretty flip key fobs etc on ebay but they will not work with these systems. There is also a ton of Subaru 2 button fobs that look identical to the BMW 2 button fobs. They even have the same FCC ID number but they will NOT work on our system. I don't know why, but they don't. It has to say BMW on it or it won't work.

    If you are looking for a replacement fob you can usually find them on ebay for $35-$50. The 3 button ones tend to be more expensive. You can also get a replacement at "Keylessride.com" and a few other places online. The best way to track down a replacement is to use the FCC ID number of the module or fob. Google is a good place to start.

    Each fob has a "Panic Mode" on it. The 3 button fob has a separate "Panic" button.
    The 2 button fob sets off the "Panic Mode" if you hold the lock button in long enough. The 3 button fob uses the same button to lock/unlock. You have to press a separatebutton to arm the alarm. The 2 button fob uses separate buttons to lock unlock. The alarm is automatically armed as soon as you lock the car.


    HOw IT ALL WORKS:

    The OEM system is separate from any other system in the car.

    It does not disable anything.
    It's not connected to the radio or OBC.
    It can't cause "no start" issues.
    It can't be used while the car is running.
    It doesn't care if the windows are open or the top is down. It will still arm the alarm and lock all the locks.
    It automatically "Double Locks" the car so anyone inside can NOT get out or start the car if they have a key. I know the inside door handles are definately disabled in "double lock" but I've never tested the "no start" function.
    The ONLY thing each system does is lock/unlock the doors, trunk and gas filler door and arm the alarm.
    On Verts it locks/unlocks the glovebox too.
    It doesn't close/open any windows or any other comfort features. There are aftermarket units that will do this.
    It doesn't flash any lights but you can modify it to do this. There are several DIY's on this.
    If the alarm is set off it can be turned off by inserting the key and turning the ignition to position 1 or2 or by starting the car. It can also be turn off with the fob but it takes a bit longer.
    On all units it will chirp Once for unlock, twice for unlock and three times if something is wrong that is preventing it from locking.
    On All units you can manually unlock the doors with the key just as if you didn't have the alarm installed. This will not set off the alarm unless a door or trunk is opened.
    Locking the car with the key doesn't arm the alarm.
    The LED will flash for 36 hours then turn off to save batter life. The alarm remains armed even if the LED stops flashing.
    The 2 button fob is programmed with a series of steps listed below.
    The 3 button fob uses a chip to hold its programming. This is listed below.
    The 2 button fob can be linked to more than one control module at the same time. If you have more than one car with one of the 2 button fob units installed you can program one fob to work with both units at the same time. The only problem is you'll lock and unlock both cars at the same time if they are sitting next to each other.


    LED's and Sensors and other stuff:

    Each system has an LED that inserts into the slots in front of the shifter. The 2 button LED only has the LED mounted. The 3 button LED also has a small speaker that is the glass break sensor. The glass break sensor on the 2 button unit is in the contol module. You can see a small grid in one corner where it is located. Both style LED's will work with both units. The 2 button control module does not have anywhere to plug the 3 button glass break sensor in since it already has it built into the control module.

    The 3 button unit has a movement sensor module that is built into the harness. The 2 button unit does not have this module in the harness and Ive never been able to fiure out if its built into the unit. The module on the harness needs to be bolted to the car somewhere for it to properly sense movement. It has a tab with a hole just for this purpose.

    Each unit has its own fuse built into the harness. I found it very handy to cut this fuse out, then lengthen the wires and relocate the fuse to somewhere that doesn't require the golvebox to be pulled to access it. On manual cars a good place is under the leather shift boot. On Automatic cars Ive found cutting a hole in the back of the glovebox works well.

    There is a connector on the harness for the hood switch. You will find a matching connector on the cars harness that runs behind the module stack. If the hood switch has never been connected to an alarm before it will be buried deep in the harness but it won't be very far from the left hand side of the module stack next to the black harness connector. It took me over an hour of digging to find it.

    The hood switch can be a problem. If the hood doesn't close far enough it won't trip the switch. The system will work without the hood switch connected. You can unplug the switch in the engine bay or at the harness for the control module. As hard as it is to get into the engine bay on these cars if the hood release isn't working, I recommend not using the hood switch. Ive had too many times it prevented the alarm from arming and one time the alarm went off because the switch caused it to thing someone opened the hood. Luckily I was close by when it went off. In order to open the hood, you need to use the hood release. By the time they get into the car and pull the hood release they have already set off the alarm.

    The car battery can be disconnected and the unit and fob will NOT require reprogramming. In fact the control module can be completely removed from the car then reinstalled and it will work as if it was never removed. Removing the fob battery clears any progrmming.

    I know you can have at least 2 fobs linked to the control module and I know you can have more but I don't know how many..so at least 3 and maybe more.

    2 Button LED


    3 Button LED


    3 Button Movement sensor



    UNIQUE TO 3 BUTTON UNITS:

    The following are features unique to only the 3 button control module.

    The control module for the 3 button unit has a small door on it. Inside this door are a series of dip switches. You'll also find the slot for the chip and the programming button. The control module also has a dip switch on the outside Marked "H" and "L".

    The dipswitches turn certain features off/on. I'm not upto date on all of them but I'll cover the ones I know. There should be a label next to the door with all the "default" settings but I'll list them here in case it's missing.

    1) Trunk SWitch: I don't know sorry (default is to the right-neg)
    2) G B Sensor: Adjusts the sensitivity of the sensor (default is to the right-normal) *See note below.
    3) Selection: Allows you to use the horn or siren (default is to the left-siren )
    4) Beep Chirp: turns the chirp feature off/on (default is to the right-on)
    5) SEMS Cancel: I don't know sorry (default is to the right-on)

    *There is also a switch on the end of the module that is listed as Glass Break Detector. This one is confusing because of the additional setting on the dip switches. I can only assume the one on the dip switches is for the movement sensor and this one is for the actual glass break sensor. Only because if you look at the unit at this end of it there is a line across it that has the words "connector on the end that the glass sensor plugs into and "Sens" on the end of the switch and the switch is labeled "L H". I have to assume the GB sensor dip switch is a misprint.

    3 Button dip switches


    3 Button chip slot


    3 Button Programming Button




    AFTERMARKET:

    The range on our alarms isn't the greatest. You generally need to be less than 100' away. Most aftermarket units have a much greater range. There are after market units that are 100% plug and play with our harness and don't require any splicing of any kind. Some of these units have very nice flip fobs but the key that's included has to be cut to fit your locks/ignition. If you have a a car with EWSII you'll also have to remove the chip from the key and insert it into the new fob of one of these units. Many of them also include additional features such as comfort close of all windows and sunroof as long as your car is set up for those features. You might have to purchase an additional modlue to activate those features.

    PROGRAMMING:

    Here are two links to programming instructions for each fob. Just in case anyone is wondering...the three button fob uses a chip that is inserted into the control module then programmed, then transfered back to the fob. Only one chip is required.

    3 Button programming: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1628698

    2 Button programming: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=19

  15. #315
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    May 2017
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    1995 325i 'vert
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilMZ View Post
    I have carefully followed the instructions multiple times but when finished I continue to get three chirps. The LED works per the instructions as do all of the other chirps. I have the hood switch disconnected. I have owned the car for a year or so now and it worked when I first got the car. Any ideas?

    THANKS SO MUCH
    Three chirps means theres a sensor not being engaged in either your doors or trunk I think. since you said your hood is disconnected it's not that (mine too so that's no issue). I would try manually engaging the switches/latches where the doors close one by one to see if maybe it's one of those

  16. #316
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    colorado
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    743
    My Cars
    1997 LS1 M3, 2004 330xi
    Would a ls swapped car that has no dme anymore cause issues? These alarm systems are totally seperated i read.
    1997 m3 sedan, 2 button fob came with the car works.
    Ever since i got the car running it has also gone off randomly. bought it with a bad engine so never knew if it was properly working before but the car was very clean, 110k miles.
    Hood switch disconnected.
    Door strikers look better than ones ive seen here, added tape to try that.
    All door locks work.
    What next? Id love to have a working alarm finally!

  17. #317
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    Nebraska
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    1998 M Roadster,'07 328i
    For all the 3 chirpers here:

    I haven't seen it mentioned in the last page or so, there is another switch behind the radio. If you have an aftermarket head unit, that switch is not getting engaged. On the back of a factory head unit, there is post that goes into a hole with switch inside it, behind the radio, deep in the dash.

    The fix: simply unhook the switch behind the radio. white module, black connector, here is a pic stole from Crutchfield.

  18. #318
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    Jul 2015
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    northern California
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    01 M Roadster
    OK, another thread update. As sort of spring cleaning, I decided to examine the alarm/key fobs for my car. I generally don't leave the car anywhere unobserved for long periods of time, and it lives in the garage. I rarely set the alarm. The main key, with light up LED, on a 2 button remote works fine. push set, get chirps. push unlock, get chirps. The back up key, which had a dead battery and I changed, didn't work. I ran through the procedure on page 1, twice, each time, the expected LED and chirp behavior was performed. But trying to lock the car with the newly programmed remote does nothing. Bad fob?

    Thanks, John

  19. #319
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Toronto, Ontario
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    1999 M3
    So I finally got around to getting the 2-button key fob for my 1999 BMW M3 Coupe. The car already has the module, LED, hood switch and siren, so I'm guessing it had a key fob to go along with it once upon a time. In any case, I followed the steps outlined in the original post and I seem to be getting the 3 chirps a few others have commented about. None of the doors lock/unlock, I just get the 3 chirps every time I press the fob button.

    So based on the comments in this thread, here are some of the items I should be checking to diagnose/fix the issue:

    - Disconnect the hood latch and try again. An alternative it to check if the hood latch is positioned correctly to even engage. Apparently, over time the latch doesn't depress full and therefore doesn't engage as it should. The alarm then takes this as the hood being open (even though it's not).

    - Check the door, trunk and fuel door switch/latch to ensure nothing is stuck or not engaging

    - Check the switch behind the radio

    I'm going to try these this weekend and report back. If it's neither of these issues, then I'm at a total loss and need to do more reading. I'm also open to other suggestions.
    1999 BMW M3/2
    Fern Green | Sand Beige | 5spd | LTW's | Bilstein PSS9 | Bosch Projectors | Dinan SSK

  20. #320
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    PAC
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    '95 E36 M3
    My '95 M did not come with an alarm/keyless and does not have any module, led, or trunk switch. However, it does have the hood switch. Since the trunk does not have the switch, does it mean it's not pre-wired for the oem keyless/alarm?

  21. #321
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    DE-spec E36 328i/M3 cab
    Quote Originally Posted by sydjai View Post
    For all the 3 chirpers here:

    I haven't seen it mentioned in the last page or so, there is another switch behind the radio. If you have an aftermarket head unit, that switch is not getting engaged. On the back of a factory head unit, there is post that goes into a hole with switch inside it, behind the radio, deep in the dash.

    The fix: simply unhook the switch behind the radio. white module, black connector, here is a pic stole from Crutchfield.
    Don't unplug the switch. Simply do nothing. No radio is closed circuit and it simply will be ignored.

    It triggers when it's open and then getting closed while armed.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiί III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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  22. #322
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    Feb 2022
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    ontario
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    bmw e36 m3
    After reading this whole thread I'm stumped. Just picked up a canadian 97 m3 coupe..has the hood switch, siren, alarm module behind glovebox. I purchased a used 2 button fob today and can't get it to program or do anything. The buttons light up red and flash like they're supposed to when held down but then when I close the trunk, then the door, I still get nothing. checked both fuses..one on the alarm module and one behind the steering wheel.all look factory installed and not messed with. Frustrating!

    Wishing I didn't sell an extra Fob I had 10 years ago for $20 after I sold my last e36. Would like to test out a second fob to see if that is the issue.

  23. #323
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    The Netherlands
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    DE-spec E36 328i/M3 cab
    Did you program the new fob or not?
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiί III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

    IG:
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  24. #324
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    Jul 2012
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    98 M3/4/5, RIP 528e
    My car has its original 2 button fobs (1998 M3) and both fobs lock the doors and arm the system just fine. However, both fobs struggle to unlock the car, and I have to press the unlock button 20+ times for it to finally work. Does anyone know what might cause this problem?

  25. #325
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    DE-spec E36 328i/M3 cab
    Could be the contact patch under the button.
    Worn graphite layer that makes closing the circuit hit n miss.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiί III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

    IG:
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