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Thread: First day with 2004 545i already issues

  1. #1
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    First day with 2004 545i already issues

    Just got my brand new 545i thought it was running great and in good condition but now i'm seeing major oil dripping from the car and i see the bottom of the car is wet with oil from the front to almost the back. Everything is running great and no error codes coming on.

    I saw that the bottom was a bit wet and the pervious owner told me its because he just replaced the vacumn pump. He showed me receipts and said thats why its wet. I didn't think that sounded plausible but I know nothing about cars so I didn't question it.

    BTW since i'm new here i'm upgrading from a 2001 CLK430 to the 545i. So far other than this issue I love how it handles and the power compared to the 430.


  2. #2
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    Hnnngggg that color. Love it.


    Have you checked your oil? Is it low? There could also be a seal that's bad for any of the lines underneath the car. First thing is locating where the leak is coming from, if you're going to tackle this yourself. If not, find a good area indy shop and have them take a look at it


  3. #3
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    I have a 08 e60 diesel. When I changed the vacuum pump, the car was throwing heavy smoke from the exhaust and when I tried to open the oil tank cover, some just jumped around.

    I don't think a proper leak may be caused by the vacuum pump (sorry if I'm wrong), but you should get it checked properly with a bmw service probably and see what's really up with it.

  4. #4
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    could be valve cover gaskets, timing cover gaskets, oil pressure switch, alternator bracket gasket, etc.

    should have done a little research. those engines leak oil like a baby wets a diaper.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  5. #5
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    Are those all cheap fixes? I got a good deal on it and anticipated repairs so this is built in as long as those issues aren't to costly.

  6. #6
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    These engines can cost thousands upon thousands of dollars to attempt to keep them leak free. Shoulda got a pre purchase inspection.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmwdave37 View Post
    These engines can cost thousands upon thousands of dollars to attempt to keep them leak free. Shoulda got a pre purchase inspection.
    Yeah I rushed into the purchase. Cant change that now. The guy selling seemed pretty trustworthy. Any threads on he particular engine or potential problems?

  8. #8
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    Don't feel bad, it happens. The car is gorgeous and they drive really well. I wouldn't assume the guy was untrustworthy, be he may have been. Who knows?

    Next time, assume he is not trustworthy and spend the $100-200 at an indy shop or dealer for a pre purchase inspection. It can literally save you thousands of dollars.

    Every person I encounter with a 545/550/745/750 got a "really good deal" on it and then are smacked in the face with huge frequent bills. It all depends on your appreciation for the car, your patience, and of course your budget.

  9. #9
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    I have a reasonable appetite for car repairs. I'll spend a couple of months getting the gremlins out but if its a frequent thing the car has got to go. It seems in great shape other than this leak. I need to also address the rear window rubber lining being brittle and hard and cracked. Does anyone happen to know the cost to repair that and if its an easy fix? It used to be a Florida car for most of its life so it had a lot of heat and sun on the rubber trim.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by 545i9 View Post
    ...
    I need to also address the rear window rubber lining being brittle and hard and cracked. Does anyone happen to know the cost to repair that and if its an easy fix? It used to be a Florida car for most of its life so it had a lot of heat and sun on the rubber trim.
    Rear window seal is very very easy to replace. Part is around $35 at the BMW dealer. When you open the trunk, you can see the ends (both on right side and left side corners) of the window seal.

    - Buy new seal,
    - remove old seal. Start from one of the lower corners and pull it out (no tools are needed).
    - clean the entire surface.
    - spray some soap water to make it easier for you to slip on the new seal
    - start with one corner and start inserting the new seal. Once you see how the seal goes in, it's a piece of cake.

  11. #11
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    I picked up a 545i last week for my wife... 2005 65k miles. had a local BMW indy shop put it up on the lift (did it for free) and give it a quick look... he let me go under as well and pointed out newly replace bushings and a few other things. Main thing was, no major issues with leaks but there is a small drip of oil on the passenger side. He showed me where it's leaking from the oil sending unit and said it's a $10 part and easy to replace at next oil change. I would say keep an eye on your oil, take the top cover off and look at your valve cover gaskets and timing chain cover as others suggest and go from there... find a local BMW guy and see if he will give it a look over and maybe he will throw in the inspection with an oil change or something. Enjoy the car, it's a blast to drive!
    Last edited by amar67; 02-14-2012 at 09:32 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 545i9 View Post
    Are those all cheap fixes? I got a good deal on it and anticipated repairs so this is built in as long as those issues aren't to costly.

    No, absolutely not. Maintenance is gonna kill you on that car.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  13. #13
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    545i9...i just picked up a 2004 545i about a month ago...great car but after sitting overnight in the driveway i noticed a few spots of oil where i was parked...i looked underneath and saw oil almost from front to back...the problem for me turned out to be the common "leaking transmission pan"...replaced with new pan/gasket/bolts and problem was solved...

    *** 2008 750i Sport ***Custom coding done by John @ Motorcepts.

  14. #14
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    So took the car to a mechanic today. Didn't goto the Stealership cause it just seemed like i'd be paying for their overhead. Seems like the labor on this job will be about $600 and the parts $250. Basically some of the gaskets in the engine are damaged so I told them basically replace all of them since they are opening it up. Other than that the car is in excellent shape.

    One thing I noticed that they said wasn't an issue is the rear bushings had some of the seals kinda rotted and it had oil and gunk over it. Its weird cause it was the same one one other side and the rest were in good shape. Almost like a design flaw. I need you guys help to see if there is anything else I should replace once i'm opening up the engine to replace these parts and let me know if there is something I should have ordered other than these. Here goes with the part numbers. Not sure how many of each one I need also so if there is a left and right one and I need to order more or multiples of each let me know.

    Gasket Steel 1 11147506424 $5.06 - Gasket Upper Chain Case Cover Right
    Gasket Steel 1 11147506425 $6.32 -Gasket Upper Chain Case Cover Left


    LOWER TIMING CASE
    Gasket f timing case 1 11141439717 $13.47
    Oil pan upper part, oil level indicator
    Gasket Steel 1 11137545293 $20.99

    Oil pan bottom part, oil level indicator
    Gasket Steel 1 11137506774 $19.60

    Cooling water expansion tank - 17137542986 - $92.77

    if there are some seals that I should go ahead and repair once i'm that far in the engine let me know and i'll order those too. I don't think the shop will charge me cause its the opening of the engine and putting it back thats the expense.
    Last edited by 545i9; 02-14-2012 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  15. #15
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    These, like any other cars, will leak eventually. Learn how to turn a wrench and/or find a good Indy shop or friend with know-how and tools and you will save a lot of $$! If you literally purchased the car and a day later found the leak, contact the dealer and see if they will help at all. I know here in Ct there is a 60 day warranty by law on all used car sales even if it states "As Is". These cars are so technologically advanced that so many things can go wrong... I know it doesnt help to say it but you should have had it inspected...
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    No, absolutely not. Maintenance is gonna kill you on that car.

    This is a ridiculous, blanket statement from a self proclaimed "master mechanic".
    Why must we always act like the world is coming to an end every time someone has a question about a fluid leak?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cadillacbart View Post
    This is a ridiculous, blanket statement from a self proclaimed "master mechanic".
    Why must we always act like the world is coming to an end every time someone has a question about a fluid leak?

    Self proclaimed "master mechanic"? No, actually, I was awarded that title by BMW. Thank you very much.

    I never said anything about the world coming to an end. The fact of the matter is that I am extremely knowledgable about that car and engine. Ask anyone that has owned an N62 engine after about 60k miles. They leak oil, all of them, and from just about every gasket on the engine. Most of the gaskets are fairly cheap, but the labor is what kills you on those engines. I know what the hell I'm talking about.

    And by the way, there are a few BMW master techs that browse this board sometimes. Disrespecting them is probably not a good idea seeing as how they're probably the most knowledgable people on the forum.
    Last edited by White94RX; 02-15-2012 at 10:44 AM.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  18. #18
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    These cars are not cheap to maintain. I think that's all he was trying to say, cadillacbart. Hell an oil change, even done by yourself, is $65. Pretty spendy for an oil change. One headlight on this car is ~ $1600. Pretty spendy for a headlight. I could go on, but dont think I need to.


  19. #19
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    +1 - These cars are leaky! Parts are cheap, but fairly labor intesive since everything is very compact; you have to remove a bunch of parts just to gain access. These are great cars with a great engine - maintenance is part of the game. I think it is cool to have a master mech on this board - I had a buddy in MI that was one as well and obviously helped me with my "leaks", control arm etc
    72k on my mine and replaced vc gaskets - my trans pan is leaking, so need new gasket, sleave for that now.

    The real Achilles heal on these cars are the cooling parts, mostly plastic and give way around this mileage. expansion tank, water pump, temp sensor etc. But the DIY on these are maybe 2-3 wrenches out of 5.



    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Self proclaimed "master mechanic"? No, actually, I was awarded that title by BMW. Thank you very much.

    I never said anything about the world coming to an end. The fact of the matter is that I am extremely knowledgable about that car and engine. Ask anyone that has owned an N62 engine after about 60k miles. They leak oil, all of them, and from just about every gasket on the engine. Most of the gaskets are fairly cheap, but the labor is what kills you on those engines. I know what the hell I'm talking about.

    And by the way, there are a few BMW master techs that browse this board sometimes. Disrespecting them is probably not a good idea seeing as how they're probably the most knowledgable people on the forum.

    2005 545i Mystic Met. Blue /Gray int. Sports/Winter/rear heated seats/Premium Package Navi - Logic 7 - Bamboo Anthracite trim - Fold down rear w/ Ski Bag - Active Steering - Adaptive HID Xenon - PDC - AC Schnitzer Roof & Trunk spoiler, rear Bumper w/diffuser Pedals, Badge - Blue Angel Eyes - Blue Carbon Fiber Roundels - K&N filter (carbon filter delete) - Black Matte Grille - Euro Applicator - E60.net clings - R1 concept drilled/slotted rotors - Sprint Booster - Borla Exhaust - 20" MRR GT1 blk/slv 4" rear lip - RPI Scoop

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Self proclaimed "master mechanic"? No, actually, I was awarded that title by BMW. Thank you very much.

    I never said anything about the world coming to an end. The fact of the matter is that I am extremely knowledgable about that car and engine. Ask anyone that has owned an N62 engine after about 60k miles. They leak oil, all of them, and from just about every gasket on the engine. Most of the gaskets are fairly cheap, but the labor is what kills you on those engines. I know what the hell I'm talking about.

    And by the way, there are a few BMW master techs that browse this board sometimes. Disrespecting them is probably not a good idea seeing as how they're probably the most knowledgable people on the forum.

    Don't you think that your description of these engines above is much more constructive than you're original comment to the OP?

    And you are correct, my crack at you was uncalled for, and didn't help the OP one bit. My apologies to you, and all who had to witness it.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Self proclaimed "master mechanic"? No, actually, I was awarded that title by BMW. Thank you very much.

    I never said anything about the world coming to an end. The fact of the matter is that I am extremely knowledgable about that car and engine. Ask anyone that has owned an N62 engine after about 60k miles. They leak oil, all of them, and from just about every gasket on the engine. Most of the gaskets are fairly cheap, but the labor is what kills you on those engines. I know what the hell I'm talking about.

    And by the way, there are a few BMW master techs that browse this board sometimes. Disrespecting them is probably not a good idea seeing as how they're probably the most knowledgable people on the forum.

    Hey White94RX since you are knowledgeable on these engines I need your help. I am going to replace every gasket and part on that engine that needs replacing since I have to replace the gaskets. Please let me know which parts I need. Here are the parts I think I need let me know if there are any i'm missing. I am not sure if I need a left and right or how many of each so i'll list what I had planned to order. Since like you said the parts are cheap i'll be replacing everything once its opened up. They are charging me $600 for the labor and i'll be buying my own parts.

    Here is the list I have so far. Let me know if this is everything I should do to ensure a leak free vehicle.



    I am unsure if I need to order something else for the left or the right side please let me know. White94RX I assume since the mechanic is opening it up all these parts should be easy to replace. If i'm missing a part let me know. Like I said I don't want any issues a month down the road so its rubber and easily replaceable I want to do it.

    What about the round circular gasket rings?

    I found them using Realoem.com
    Last edited by 545i9; 02-15-2012 at 11:48 PM.

  22. #22
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    So you're mechanic is doing the lower timing case cover gasket too? I hope he knows what he's in for. Technically, the cylinder heads are supposed to come off to get the lower timing case cover off. But it can be done without it. I'm not sure if he knows exactly what all is involved. $600 sounds way cheap.

    It looks like you've got just about everything you need, but there's always going to be stuff you don't have and end up needing. Actually, come to think of it, if he is doing the lower timing case cover, you're going to need a water pump gasket, some o-rings, and a new transfer pipe, etc, etc.

    Ok, let's start over. How many miles are on the car?

    Here's what I would do: The lower timing case covers don't usually leak until much higher mileage than anything else. And it is serious major engine work to replace it. And there's a lot of other stuff you better replace when you do it (coolant transfer pipe, valley pan, etc). If it was me, I would start by replacing the valve cover gaskets, upper timing cover gaskets, the vacuum pump, the oil pressure switch, as well as the alternator bracket gasket. You didn't mention the alternator bracket gasket, but it is very prone to leaking as well. Has your mechanic worked on a lot of N62 engines before? I really don't think he knows exactly how much work it is to do the lower timing case cover. In my opinion, $600 would cover the valve covers, timing covers, vac pump, and oil pressure switch. I would recommend the alternator bracket gasket as well. The engine has to be supported from the top, unbolt the motor mounts, lower the subframe, remove the alternator, the driver side motor mount, and finally the bracket that mounts to the side of the block. There's a 3 dollar rubber gasket behind it. Basically, a gasket to no where. It is only there because on engines with the external oil cooler, that's where the cooler lines come out of the side of the block.

    Ok. Any more questions? I'll help as much as I can from across the internet. I definately love the 545/550 cars. I just wish they weren't so prone to leaks. Some people say it's from the long oil change intervals. The oil gets saturated with fuel and blowby and it causes the gaskets to leak earlier than they would if it was like a 7k mile oil change interval. But I dunno for certain.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  23. #23
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    Can you list the part #s for what you recommended so I can order them. Vacum pump was replaced by previous owner in december. Thanks

  24. #24
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    Oil pressure switch 12 61 7 568 480
    Alternator bracket gasket 12 31 7 507 807
    Right upper timing cover gasket 11 14 7 506 424
    Left upper timing cover gasket 11 14 7 506 425
    Right valve cover gasket set 11 12 7 513 194
    Left valve cover gasket set 11 12 7 513 195

    That's probably just about all you need. But like I said before, I hope your mechanic has worked on a few N62 engines before. The valve covers are definately not easy to get off. It's very easy to damage the eccentric shaft sensor, which is like a 3 or 4 hundred dollar part.
    ASE and BMW Master Certified Technician

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Oil pressure switch 12 61 7 568 480
    Alternator bracket gasket 12 31 7 507 807
    Right upper timing cover gasket 11 14 7 506 424
    Left upper timing cover gasket 11 14 7 506 425
    Right valve cover gasket set 11 12 7 513 194
    Left valve cover gasket set 11 12 7 513 195

    That's probably just about all you need. But like I said before, I hope your mechanic has worked on a few N62 engines before. The valve covers are definately not easy to get off. It's very easy to damage the eccentric shaft sensor, which is like a 3 or 4 hundred dollar part.

    What about the lower oil pan and upper oil pan? I think thats where he pointed out the leak orignally.

    Quote Originally Posted by White94RX View Post
    Here's what I would do: The lower timing case covers don't usually leak until much higher mileage than anything else. And it is serious major engine work to replace it. And there's a lot of other stuff you better replace when you do it (coolant transfer pipe, valley pan, etc).

    Can you list all the other part #s to replace when I do the lower timing case gasket. I think i'm going to do everything at once so I have a problem free car for the next 50,000+ miles. Once I do this i'll replace the oil every 7,000 miles as well so that this doesnt become a reoccuring issue.

    Here is the parts I have ordered so far.

    11141439717-9
    11147506424-17
    11137545293-17
    12317507807-9
    17137542986-9
    12617568480-323
    11127513195-30
    11127513194-30

    I am getting the parts off http://www.koperformance.com
    Last edited by 545i9; 02-16-2012 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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