Hmmm...where do I start...
Build your own conversion and save a ton of money!
I went through the process of developing a conversion for the e36 about 8 years ago. I am still driving my car today. Engine sits straight in the bay, and the weight distribution ends up around 51/49. The stock steering shaft works with the long tube headers in my car.
1) You will save a ton by building your own one-off header set. Don't bother trying to jig them as it will cost you a fortune and takes way too long. Just cut up the j-bends and regular angles and piece/tack weld it up. Take them out and finish weld them and add collectors.
2) The only other slightly technical thing you would need to do with my mounting position is clearance the stock F-body oilpan. However, there are new aftermarket oilpans that will likely work out of the box.
- This oilpan from mast motorsports might be perfect. Oilpan
I have a template profile that is critical, I can scan and send to who-ever is lucky enough to pick up the bulk of this stuff. This pan wasn't available when I did mine.
3) I am also suggesting you make up a custom simple angle channel trans cross-member
after you put the driveline in the car and measure your driveshaft u-joint angles, and determine your exhaust routing. My design isn't ideal and I would re-do it using this method.
[B]I am pricing everything here at my bottom-line price. So don't waste time trying to haggle. I you take everything for the conversion that I have, I will work out a slightly better shipped deal!
BUYER PAYS ACTUAL SHIPPING COST[/COLOR]:
Paypal is fine.
• My LSx e36 conversion motor mount pedestals (3 piece), jigs, bolts, weld onto front subframe brackets (custom fitment, retain abs pump, stock steering shaft)
$175 (shown) - everything you need to put the engine in place.
• Stock camaro clamshell style motor mounts with new prothane urethane inserts that work with my mounts. -
$95 (shown)
• A conversion steel driveshaft custom length, for the t56 - M3 4 bolt diff. -
$125 for the engine in the location determined by my mounts (shown)
• I have a 4 cylinder e36 cluster that doesn't need a special tach converter to show correct rpm -
$80 (not shown)
• Misc heat shielding for ABS unit, starter, motor mounts $15 (shown)
• Hardened 7.4" 5/16" LSx pushrods never used -
$65
• Custom pre-bent, drilled and machined tool steel shifter to center the t56 shifter in the opening on the e36 -
$40 (shown)
• universal throttle cable - new
$20
• Stock e36 M3 brake booster/master cylinder -
$80 (not shown)
• e36 Manual pedal set, with clutch master
$80 (shown)
• Red LS6 Corvette plastic coil covers L&R) -
$75 (shown)
• LS2 coilpacks(8) - full set - work perfect -
$160 (not shown)
• 4" inlet high quality ITG foam air filter uses an aluminum bell high flow outlet flange, washable - good for 400-500 hp flow -
$75 (shown)
• 4" inlet tubing/couplers to fit filter in left front behind headlight -
$50 (shown)
• aluminum airbox (cut and formed sheet) with hood seal for left front air filter placement. -
$35 (shown)
• good used LS1 Map sensor -
$20 (not shown)
• aftermarket 10" low profile 12v rad fan -
$25 (not shown)
I can't emphasize this enough...
• BUILD YOUR OWN ONE-OFF HEADERS and save a ton of money relative to buying someones conversion pieces:
They may look pretty and fit with their mounts, but you will never recoupe the investment vs some of your free time and a mig welder....
I have 2 left-over half tubs of J and U bends in 1 3/4" and 1 5/8" mix of 16 gauge stainless and mild steel pieces - I can verify quantity of each as required. -
$125 for everything shown in 2 pictures!!!!! (shown)
• 1 7/8" STAINLESS laser cut 1/2" header flanges (2) for fabricating your own headers -
New $75 (shown) or...
• 1 3/4" steel laser cut 3/8" header flanges (2) for fabricating your own headers -
New $50 (not shown)
• stock 2002 Camaro water pump - good condition, low miles -
$95(not shown)
Some images of the conversion parts are now posted up here:
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