Hey,
My 325iC has been intermittently stuttering during acceleration from a stop at low-rpms. I first noticed the issue a few months ago, and it would happen about 2 times a week, driving the car every day.
here is what happens every time: Car is idling at a stop light. I start accelerating, but at about 2k rpms in first gear, the engine stutters for 1/4-1/2 second before picking up again and continuing as if nothing happened.
The stutter has to be something to do with the ignition since it is very abrupt. I have no idea if it is a sensor (like the throttle position) or if it is ignition coil, etc...
Has anyone here experienced this before and/or knows what this could be?
Thanks in advance
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
How's the condition of your driveline (flex disc, CSB, driveshaft)? When mine started to go in the 91 318i, I'd feel it as a repeated knocking in the right side of the seat of my pants. It would be most pronounced at 2,000 rpms in first gear, especially if I was doing anything else but feathering the accelerator.
On the 90 325i convertible with automatic, the driveshaft also failed, but that manifested itself as a drumming vibration at speeds > 45 mph.
It's something else to consider if turns out not to be a problem with fuel or spark.
On Christ the solid Rock I stand, all other ground is sinking sand. (Edward Mote 1797-1874)
I guess stutter is not really the right word... it feels like the engine cuts out completely. But it happens and then recovers so quickly that I dont even have time to check the gauges. Thats why I think the ignition is just cutting out completely for that 1/4-1/2 second...
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
... try to catch a glimpse of the gauges when this happens .. if the tach drops rpm then the problem is related to loss of spark .. if the econometer drops mpg then the problem is related to starving for fuel ..
... one possibility is maybe your crankshaft position sensor (CPS) could be getting ready to fail .. if it does then your spark and fuel will both shut down ... CPS can be checked to see if it is within spec resistance range .... I think it should be about 540 ohms plus/minus 10% across the pins on the connector
..also you could have one or more bad plug wires ... or ... when was the last time the distributor cap, rotor, and plugs were changed..??
Last edited by my1stE30; 01-30-2012 at 09:15 PM.
... forty-three years of driving before I get behind the wheel of a BMW .... and I am thinking, "why did it take me so long?"
... and then after another 4 years I can't believe that I have two of them !!
does it always happen at the same RPM?
could be CPS as stated. also could be a relay dropping out or maybe even the fuel pump. it could also be the DME itself, perhaps a bad solder joint.
you may just have to wait for it to get worse. you could try swapping relays or you could just replace the CPS, although i dont like to replace things and not know for sure if it is the problem.
my 911 was doing the same thing, i ended up replacing the CD unit and coil. i had to wait for it to stop running long enough to check for spark. been fine ever since.
[__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 86 PORSCHE 930
[__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 88 BMW 325is 200K+
[__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: 2000 MERCEDES E320 WAGON
[__] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING:99 GRAND CHEROKEE 160K::
[_:_] RUNNING: [__] NOT RUNNING: mazda B2200
I've had the same kind of issue twice now in the year I've had this car. The first time, I replaced the main relay and the problem went away for about 6 months. I've replaced the CPS, fuel pump, fpr, plugs and it doesn't even drive now. When I get back home in June, I'm going to replace the ignition coil/cap and all the wires. If that doesn't fix it, next will be swapping in a known good AFM. If not, TPS.....best if you can link up with someone with a running car and just swap 1 part at a time and see if it makes a difference!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
Thanks guys, Ill keep this thread posted with any findings...
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
I had this problem and it turn out to be idle air control valve going bad.
I had similar symptoms, but at higher RPM. The problem was ignition wires.
Same problem but at 2100 rpms and this was before the Stroker build. I had replaced I.C.V., throttle position sensor, Maf, spark plugs, distribitor, ignition coil, ignition wires, fuel pump one and two, fuel filter, fuel relays, fuel regulater, fuel injectors, and throttle body, only to find out my ECU was going bad. Picked one out of the junkyard with the lowest miles and bingo! Problem was gone. Good thing was, it made me learn so much about the e30s, not to mention all the extra parts that I know are still good.
worn traces in the AFM, dying TPS, dying CPS(does it take a lot of cranks to start?) and bad ecu.
Hm, I thought the TPS was just a switch (idle and WOT)? It consistently starts with about 1-2 seconds of cranking. Im gonna wait until I can get a glimpse of what the gauges do when it happens again before trying to troubleshoot by buying some new parts haha....
Thanks for all the replies!
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
Since most of us have buddies with E30s/M20s, I plan to have a friend come over and just start swapping parts, one at a time. It doesn't take long to access a lot of this stuff, so we should be able to find the problem relatively quickly. I
didn't replace my ICV, just cleaned mine and the problem was still there. Unfortunately, there is a long list of things that can cause this and it seems to be a different issue for everyone!
1997 Arctic Silver/Black M3
CES Stage IV (651rwhp/615rwtq @ 24 psi)
1999 Techno Violet/Dove M3
Auto/Convertible and staying stock!
first thing first swap out ecu,you can clean the iacv but it can still be bad but I'm sure that wouldn't cause you have acceleration problems.
Update: I replaced the air flow meter and oxygen sensor, and the problem is still there (although it now happens when accelerating in first gear for the most part...)
I have a CPS en route, I am hoping that will solve the issue...
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
any update?
I'm having this issue and cant drive my E30 because it stalls and has no power, feels like spark issue but I'm wondering if its the ECU?
I've cleaned my ICV and AFM
New spark plug wires solved the problem for me.
1993 MauritiusBlau E30 325iC
Sorry to dredge up ancient history, but wanted to confirm that this worked for me too.
1988 325ic - car was bogging and stuttering at a few specific RPMs, with a fluttering noise out of the exhaust (which I am thinking it was uncombusted fuel combusting in the exhaust). Would otherwise run fine above and below those specific RPMs.
Replaced spark plugs, plug wires, distributor rotor, and distributor cap. Problem solved. Not sure which did it. 3 hour job diy, due only to the fact that one of my spark plugs was stuck and had to be worked out back and forth extremely slowly to avoid breakage.
Would have done the ignition coil too if I had thought of it.
Electronics (such as TPS, Temp sensor, CPS etc) and Ignition are usually one of the first things that need replacing on any 30+ year old car, then comes the usual vacuum leaks (hoses and gaskets) next.
Which is why after i overhauled the suspension on my E30 after purchase, i replaced everything i could get my hands on (complete ignition system, fuel system, cooling system, sensors except AFM and ISV) and so on to make it reliable for daily use.
I know this is an old post but mine would intermittently and randomly cut out for a few seconds around 3-4K rpms spitting out code 1261 which is fuel pump relay, after checking everything for a few days and run out of options, I eventually traced the issue to the pigtail harness bolt to the DME being loose and not making the proper connection.
long story short: I tightened the screw applied some dielectric grease and now she runs like she’s brand new
1998 M3/vert Cosmos Black- Daily Driven
1990 325i alpine white- Daily Driven
1998 M3/very Titanium Silver- Flooded
1989 325is alpine white-T-Boned
2000 540i6 oriental blue-SOLD
1998 528iA alpine white-SOLD
Same problem would get up 2k and stutter ran perfectly fine under 2k, This was the night after finishing my stoker build. I had swapped the oil level sensor ( 3 prong connector) and TPS sensor once I swapped them back ran fine, so if I had to guess TPS
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