What brand exhaust housing blanket is that?
Carpet is already "cut" it peels back to reveal its goodies.Originally Posted by Flak Jacket
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
Passenger side, it is there....
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
weird i had to cut mine out and the foam undernearth the carpet
hey mate what catch can are u running and what is the pressure rating of ur cap rated at?
Last edited by Sr20Tz3; 04-09-2012 at 06:21 AM.
looking good man top notch take photos of the carbon fiber build
I love the hole in the hood, it reminds me of a old shcool 300zx doing work on a whole bunch of 800whp cars.
I have faith that you will make a neat carbon cover.
So I got the tune in, started up the car and it idles super rich at around 9.1-9.5 A/F. The idle is very low, maybe 200-300 RPMs and it is just spitting out black smoke / fuel out the exhaust. I drove it around but the idle just drops off and the car shuts off when I put it into neutral. I heard it backfire once.
Some info:
1. 1998 Z3 M52
2. -14 / -15 vacuum at idle (Prosport, so I don't know if this is accurate. Going to switch to another gauge).
3. Pinched the vacuum line for the BOV to see if maybe that was causing it, but idle is still rich / crappy.
4. All sensors are plugged.
5. Had a P1188 and P0170 Check Engine but I think that was due to it running super rich. I reset it and it hasn't come up yet.
Blow Through MAF wiring (I believe it is a Mustang MAF).
This is unplugged, used to have vacuum lines going to it. Should this get vacuum?
Bret, the tuner at Technica sent me another base map with the fuel pulled but the A/F is still under 10's at idle.
What could it be? Is there anything on the OBDII Intake manifold that needs to be sealed/modified for turbo? I may have missed something here.. Any help is highly appreciated, since I have a car show on April 22nd.
15hg of vac at warm idle is low.
So, I'd look into that.
Don't forget improper timing can result in low vacuum too.
This is my signature....
Can running really rich cause the vacuum be less? I checked all of the vacuum lines and they are tight. Timing has been untouched since turbo.
Underneath the manifold, there are 5 vacuum sources:
1. Idle Air Control Valve
2. Idle Air Temperature sensor
3. I used this one and T'ed it off for boost gauge/bov/wastegate. This was used by the mini-wastegate looking thing that sits near the exhaust manifold. I removed that.
4. FPR
5. ? (Not sure where this one goes but it goes underneath the car
I'm going to check my fuel pressure at idle later on and see what kind of reading I get.
Fuel pressure is ~45 PSI when the key is turned to on position. I suspect I have a vacuum leak where the CCV hole is. I used a rubber plug as suggested from another member to plug up the hole.
From my thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1743671
Last edited by Risen; 04-16-2012 at 11:22 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I Epoxy'ed the CCV hole. No vacuum leaks. The car won't hold an idle. It cranks, starts up for maybe 1 second and even if I give it gas, it shuts off. No Check engine light. I checked all of the fuses and they're all intact. I pulled out one of the spark plugs and it is black, semi-wet with fuel (These are NGK's #4554 / R5671A-8, gapped at 0.018".):
What could cause this?
Check your fpr it may be bad.
I attached a fuel gauge to the fuel rail and it is holding 45 PSI when I turn it the key to the on position. It stays there for a while, so I don't think it's the FPR. Could the 0.018" gap on the spark plugs be the problem? I'm going to clean them up and regap them to 0.028" (Seems like this is what most are running) to see if that solves the problem.
With "wet" plugs - sounds like you are over-fueling - but it could be the car just trying to idle. Check your FPR AGAIN and at vacuum and boost. IIRC, at idle, fuel pressure should be in the low 40's (to account for the vacuum) and static atmospheric should be 3.5 bar or 50.76 psi.
If it's not that, crank position sensor would be next on my list. If the DME is seeing your crank at the wrong position, it's not going to fire right.
Just my $.02.
If you are getting vacuum under idle, your fuel pressure is WAY too high. Remember that fuel pressure regulators should step down with vacuum and up with boost. Do you have your FPR reference line correct?
Also, what size injectors are you using and what tuning? I received some insight into startup fueling from a "friend" this weekend.
I'm using 60 lb fuel injectors with tuning from Technica Motorsports.
I'm using a Ford Blow Through MAF and getting these readings from the yellow wire:
650 RPM: 0.80V
1K RPM: ~0.85V
2K RPM: ~1.23V
Red wire reads 12V
Some other readings at idle (650 RPM)
Load: 19.2%
Coolant: 29 degrees C
Intake: 28 degrees C
Timing Advance: 14.5 Degrees
Throttle: 16.5%
I bought a M3 DME, had them put a tune on that but the engine won't start even with the security disabled. So I put the Z3 DME back in and it starts right up, but still running really rich with low 9 A/F ratio.
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