This is the write-up of the rear electric blind retrofit I've completed recently:
Dismantled the rear seats, seatbelts, C-pillars and old shelf to install the actual blind and the new shelf (thanks to RichardP for the shelf off his M5!)
Old shelf
Removing the seats
Parcel shelf out
Old shelf and the new shelf with the blind cutout, which was given to me by RichardP.
Plastic bits not included in the new shelf
Plastic bits transferred on to the new shelf
The electric blind fitted to the shelf
Testing the operation of the electric blind. Works fine when connected directly to the battery.
The new shelf with the electric blind goes on the car
Note that these plastic tabs are used to hold and align the shelf to the metal part in the car
Those plastic tabs goes into these metal brackets. I had some trouble aligning these earlier, and took me some time to realise their importance. If these weren't aligned properly the C-pillar wont go back in correctly.
Everything put back together again nicely 8)
The two wires from the blind has also been routed to the centre console switch.
Continued from previous post:
Okay, when I started reading up about this install, everybody tells me its quite a straightforward job, only requiring the two wires from the blind to the centre console switch. That is true if your car is already wired up for heated seats or the active seats. Mine doesnt, so the few important wires in the centre console plug is missing, along with missing Fuse 32 and Fuse 45 in the glovebox fuse compartment.
When I first started out this is how my centre console wiring plug looks like:
Upon further investigation of BMW WDS (Wiring Diagram System) there are a few wires missing from the plug:
And from the plug assignments schedule, I could determine that these pins are needed to complete the install:
Pin 7: A thick red wire from the centre console, to Fuse 32 in the glove fusebox and then run from F32 to under the driver's seat.
Pin 14 and 15: The two wires directly from the blind.
Pin 21: A wire from the centre console to a junction box behind the glovebox (not the fusebox)
Pin 23: A wire run from the centre console to Fuse 45 in the glovebox.
Okay to actually run the wires is a little bit difficult, this is my centre console plug before I started:
And this is it when I was finished, a few good wires added to the plug:
You can see that I added Fuse 32 and Fuse 45 which was originally an empty slot.
Now thats the easy part. To install the final wire, which is from Fuse 32 to a fusebox under the driver's seat, a lot of works needs to be done.
This is when i started
Use a T50 Torx key to remove the screw holding the front seat.
Then the screw in the back. A total of 4 torx screw needs to be removed.
Move the seats so it can be taken out easily.
Two more things to disconnect to remove the seats: The seatbelt tensioner and the occupancy sensor wire.
Driver seat taken out
The occupancy sensor wire and the seat belt tensioner below the seat position.
Door sills and B-pillar cover removed to lift the carpet. (This is a picture of the other side, forgot to take the driver's side but its the same).
Lifted the rear carpet in order to lift the front carpet.
This is the junction box that I needed to access
Connected the red wire and I'm done. All proper connectors are used which are taken from breaker's yard.
Tested the blind button and it worked as anticipated. However I messed up by placing a pillow on the shelf and the blind stopped halfway. Now it remembers that location as its 'parked' location. Will fix this later when I have a bit more time.
Phew what a job! Look what a mess I made in the car that day! Note that I'm also fixing my vapor barrier which is why both the rear carpets are lifted.
Now I have a working rear electric blind 8)
Now I have to complete the side blinds, wait for a DIY retrofit write-up for that soon!
Now that's dedication. Thanks for sharing.
My 530i has this feature and I have to say it is rather nifty.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Somebody asked about the Active Seat but the post has gone? But here it is anyway:
Active Seat
The active seat features two liquid-filled plastic sachets (fluid bubbles) that are incorporated under the seat cushion. The bubbles are alternately filled and emptied thus gently moving the spinal column of the person sitting in the seat in order to relieve tension, stiffness, fatigue and backache.
Components
The entire active seat system consists of the following components
Buttons for driver's and front passenger's seat in the centre console switch centre with integrated function LEDs
Control units in driver's and front passenger's seats for controlling pump unit
Two liquid-filled sachets in seat cushion of each seat
Pump units in driver's and front passenger's seat
Function
Operating principle
Two liquid-filled plastic sachets (fluid bubbles) are integrated in the seat upholstery. These bubbles are uniformly filled when at rest. When the active seat is switched on, a pump is activated that empties one bubble and completely fills the other so that the seat surface is raised on one side. This status is maintained for approx. 10 seconds. The bubble is then emptied to the mid-position. After a renewed pause of approx. 10 seconds the bubble is completely emptied and the other bubble completely filled.
This process ensures that the pelvis is continuously tipped slightly resulting in movement of the lower spinal column. The muscles work permanently (as when walking) and do not suffer from fatigue. The body remains relaxed.
When at rest, both fluid bubbles are approx. 15 mm high. When the system is active, the height changes between 0 and 30 mm. Although the bubbles are incorporated under the seat upholstery no elevation in the seat surface can be noticed when the seat is not subject to load.
The active seat can be activated as from ignition lock position 1 (terminal R). After switching off, the pump continued to run until both bubbles are in the mid-position.
Push buttons
The push buttons for operating the active seats are integrated in the centre console switch centre.
The line to the control unit for the active seat is switched to low (ground) for 30 ms by pressing the corresponding push button in the switch centre of the centre console. The control unit activates the active seat and also switches the line to low (ground) for 30 ms. The function LED in the push button is then switched on.
Feedback does not take place and the function LED remains off if the line to the control unit for the active seat has a break or if there is a fault in the active seat.
No feedback is sent by the control unit when the active seat is switched off.
Pump unit
The pump unit contains the following components:
Fluid pump with DC motor
Pump with alternating direction of rotation for filling and emptying the fluid bubbles
Position transmitter (Hall-effect sensor)
The mid-position of the fluid bubbles is recognized by way of the position values.
Pressure switch
The pressure switch (one per bubble) switches off the pump when the pump begins to build up vacuum. The bubble is then completely empty.
Solenoid valve
The solenoid valve prevents the fluid flowing back
Fluid bubbles
The fluid bubbles are filled with a water-glysantin mixture. They are connected to the pump unit by means of plastic hoses. The pump unit and fluid bubbles must be replaced together in case of repairs.
Control units
Control units that control the pump unit are provided for the driver's and front passenger's seat. The control units are connected to the P-bus. The corresponding coding as to whether the control unit operates the driver's seat or the front passenger's seat takes place via Pin 5 (signal name COD) at the 6-pin plug connector of the control unit. The pin in the control unit on the front passenger's side is connected via a line to vehicle ground
The control unit for the driver's seat contains an acceleration sensor that registers the transverse acceleration of the vehicle. Operation of the active seat is temporarily interrupted at very high transverse acceleration levels.
Last edited by johnate; 01-27-2012 at 10:27 AM.
bravo!!!!!!
i have questions
why kind of wire use use? you use OEM wires or you by the wires in som radio shack or something store? what are the diameters of the wires? why kind of plugs you use? what length aprox you need to do this?
Thanks,
Last edited by jdjg; 01-27-2012 at 10:42 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
Last edited by champaign777; 01-27-2012 at 03:06 PM.
For the small wires I took it from a breaker's yard car. Proper size and colour coded BMW wires. I like it to stay OEM.
For the thick red wire for the fuses, I bought a roll from a local car accessories shop. Just match the size of the fuse plug wire.
Lengthwise, I cant tell you that mate. I just run the wires through, and cut and solder it in place to get the correct length.
All plugs are proper correct plugs from a breaker's yard car. I just went there and cut some wires and plugs myself. Handy when you're a regular.
Last edited by johnate; 01-27-2012 at 10:18 PM.
Hi there, I'm answering your question from the side blind thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post24025808
Firstly, yes the white and yellow is the correct one for the rear blind. It goes into pin 14 & 15 of the centre console switch and are not interchangeable, so have to go to the correct pins.
To replace the centre console switch, take out the cupholder (open the holder and you should see two screws, and it should just pull out. Maybe needs a slight wiggle though)
And then slide your fingers behind the switch paneland just push it forward. As easy as that.
If you need a bit of space to access the wires behind it, just pop out the AC control unit in the same way, push from behind.
Any other questions?
excellent
first i wanted to start from the AC control unit but if you said i can do it from the cupholders side it should be much easy
I also have both switched , old ( w/o 14 & 15 pins ) and new as on picture.
Should i use the old switch and just insert 2 new wires into it ( have no idea how , looks like i need to reuse somehow these 2 wires from the old switch , just pull them out ? )
or i need to use a new switch anywhere ( cut/set all wires ? )
What is the easy way ?
Also 14/15 pins , which is a positive and which is a negative to test it directly on a battery ?
Thanks I
Last edited by champaign777; 03-29-2012 at 12:05 AM.
Okay yellow goes to 14 and white goes to 15.
As for the connection, the switch pack and the plug can be separated.
Once you pulled the switch panel forward, you'll see tabs that can pushed on either side of the plug and just pull the panel out of the plug.
Then the plug can be separated into two pieces, see here:
The black bit can slide out from the brown bit. Again there's a tab to lift for this to happen.
Then just put in the two wires, it should already have the metal plug with tabs that slots right into the plastic plug:
Then just connect your new switch panel to it
i see ...
should be really easy to just add 2 wires to the old switch and insert it into a new switch panel as you said
to test blind directly with the battery before installation 14 ( yellow ) connect to a plus and 15 ( white )
connect to a minus ?
thanks !
Last edited by champaign777; 03-29-2012 at 06:54 PM.
To test it directly, just connect it to the battery either way. One way brings the shade up, reverse the wire and the blind goes down! You've gotta test it, I dont even know.
thanks !
i see you meantioned something about metal brackets
"Those plastic tabs goes into these metal brackets.
I had some trouble aligning these earlier, and took me some time to realise their importance.
If these weren't aligned properly the C-pillar wont go back in correctly."
I just got the whole new shelf with electric blind and i don't see any metal brackets in my car ...
My car is 2003 530i and the new shelf with electric blind from 2003 525i ...
here is my back , am i missing some important parts for tomorrow installation ?
Last edited by champaign777; 03-31-2012 at 11:07 PM.
o i see now
so its related to the shelf itself and not to the electric blind
If you want to reuse your old buttons from the old switch here i found a nice video :
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z17lLFFHc9s[/ame]\\\
Last edited by champaign777; 03-31-2012 at 11:36 PM.
Hey champain777, I am planning to do this retrofit on my 530. I have everything, switch panel , connector with pigtails, shelf panel and blind. Did you have to run the yellow and white wire to the shade? My buddy's 530 has the powershade and he says it plugs in behind the rear passenger side C pillar
Answered my own question......
Yes, I had to run two wires to the switch, I already had heated seats. Great DIY, thanks!
One thing, this picture is wrong white and yellow are reversed:
This picture is correct, the white/yellow wire are in the correct locations
Last edited by fmzip; 11-08-2016 at 08:04 PM.
I had to run two wires to the switch all way down from the rear shade
Also i think it doesn't matter the order of wires just be sure the panel button is in switch off position and the rear shade is in retract position
Trust me its much easy than remove seats and interior peaces
GL !
Last edited by champaign777; 11-26-2016 at 12:13 PM.
Mine is acting strange.....
A few days back I got in the car and the switch did nothing. 10 minutes later it worked. Last three days nothing....heated seats and D.Sc. Buttons work
Hello I am new here. I am about to start this retrofit on my bmw. Please anyone help about 21pin from center console where should I wire it ?
Pin 21: A wire from the centre console to a junction box behind the glovebox (not the fusebox)
Behind the glovebox, theres a panel with all the same white/red wire. Connect it to that. K Bus wire
Thank you for answer. Also I have one more question about pin7. When I wire big red wire from center console to f32 where should I wire fuse 32 has 2 slot up and down and then from fuse 32 I have to wire under passenger seat help me on this and thats it. Thank you.
Hello I am new here. I already started the retrofit on my bmw. Please anyone help about 21pin from center console where should I wire it and which pin to use?
i see behind the fuse box there few boxes and lot of wires? also i need help with the big red wire from the center switch to fuse 32, with pin to connect to the center control switch? any picture will be very helpful. im halfway and all i need where exactly in the (junction box ?) and what kind of pin i need to use to connect it and same goes for the big red wire. thanks and forgive my ignorance . and yes i looked at this thread like 100 times.lol
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