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Thread: DIY: How To Swap a Differential (plenty of pics)

  1. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy R
    I just lifted it and put it in the carrier.

    Tommy
    How high up did you have your car? That's pretty impressive. Even if I had it in the carrier, I would need to support it while I connected the driveshaft bolts. I used a jack to support it though.

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  2. #127
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    You can see how high I had it in the first pics of the thread. It wasn't fun and it's one of the reasons I suggest doing it with two people, but it's possible.

    Tommy

  3. #128
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    It sure feels like the diff has its own gravitational pull when you're struggling to put it back into the carrier! I had my car probably around 20" off the ground when I eased it back in with the assistance of a jack. I was using Griots Garage jackstands, which don't have that much lift. Also, I did it alone, except for the toggling of the e-brake which during installation I had my brother do.

  4. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy R
    You can see how high I had it in the first pics of the thread. It wasn't fun and it's one of the reasons I suggest doing it with two people, but it's possible.

    Tommy
    Ahh. Just realized this was your thread.

    Anyway, yeah, no fun. Great write-up though. If you could update the first post with tools and sockets used, that would be VERY helpful for future DIYs.

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  5. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by clumpymold
    If you could update the first post with tools and sockets used, that would be VERY helpful for future DIYs.
    Nah. I think I've done enough including answering the countless questions, e-mails, and PM's I receive as a result of this thread. I don't mind helping (it's why I posted this in the first place), but all the tools required and torque specs are readily available in the Bentley or other shop manuals. I think the readers can bare that responsibility.

    Or you could contribute and post that information here for everyone else.......

    Tommy

  6. #131
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    Can anyone help me? I havent been successful finding pics of differentials with the output flanges removed so I'm not sure if I am missing anything on there.

  7. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy R
    Nah. I think I've done enough including answering the countless questions, e-mails, and PM's I receive as a result of this thread. I don't mind helping (it's why I posted this in the first place), but all the tools required and torque specs are readily available in the Bentley or other shop manuals. I think the readers can bare that responsibility.

    Or you could contribute and post that information here for everyone else.......

    Tommy
    Haha, true. But I couldn't find the sockets needed in my Bentley.

    You can copy and paste this if you want.

    -Jack (3.5 ton or greater is recommended)
    -Jack stands (at least 2)
    -3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets (the longer the better for more torque)
    -Torque wrench
    -13mm socket for exhaust bolts (x6 total) and sway bar bushing bolts (x2)
    -13mm wrench (or socket for holding the other side of the bolt)
    -16mm socket (for sway bar links) - if you can get a short one, you could use it for the driveshaft to differential bolts but I couldn't fit mine in and they're VERY tight
    -16mm wrench (for sway bar links and driveshaft to differential bolts x4))
    -17mm socket (for sway bar links)
    -17mm wrench (for sway bar links)
    -18mm socket (for front and rear differential support bolts x3)
    -E12 socket (for axle to differential bolts x 12, 6 on each side, cost me ~$20 for the entire E socket set at Sears)
    -One OEM BMW bolt, part #33176750780 (cost me ~$2.00)

    I wasn't sure the torque specs since the Bentley listed these bolts as M8, M10, etc.

    I torqued my differential to axle bolts to about 45lb-ft., my exhaust hanger bolts to about 15lb-ft., my rear differential bolts to ~60lb-ft. and my front differential bolt to 74lb-ft. I couldn't get my torque wrench to the other bolts though.

    I hope those are the appropriate torque specs. I'm REALLY worried that, when I change my front diff bolt (to the AA DSB next week), I'll either break the bolt or strip the threads. We'll see.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  8. #133
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    Um I just did mine last night took bout 3 hours. Wasent to bad you really dont need to remove the sway bar to do this job but it might make it a bit easier but if you just undo the two rubber bushings that support it across the back and pull it down when accessing the rear two diff bolts its fine. THe torque settings I used to put it all back together I found in the hanes manual. Torqued all the half shaft bolts to 74 ft/lbs and the front diff bolt to that the rear two diff bolts to 50something cant really remeber just go out and buy the hanes manual its. As for tools used other than the E12 socket and the 14mm allen wrench for the diff oil plugs everything else should be pretty self explanitory. If you cant figure out what size metric socket to put on all of these bolts and how to get them out then you probably shouldent be attempting to put in a new rear diff by yourself. Mabye find a freind thats got some mechanical intuition to help you out. All and all you read through this thread should answer all the questions you have and then your pretty much all set to just tackle the job. THanks for the DIY guide though found it nice to read about before actually doing the job.

  9. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by leedawg
    Um I just did mine last night took bout 3 hours. Wasent to bad you really dont need to remove the sway bar to do this job but it might make it a bit easier but if you just undo the two rubber bushings that support it across the back and pull it down when accessing the rear two diff bolts its fine. THe torque settings I used to put it all back together I found in the hanes manual. Torqued all the half shaft bolts to 74 ft/lbs and the front diff bolt to that the rear two diff bolts to 50something cant really remeber just go out and buy the hanes manual its. As for tools used other than the E12 socket and the 14mm allen wrench for the diff oil plugs everything else should be pretty self explanitory. If you cant figure out what size metric socket to put on all of these bolts and how to get them out then you probably shouldent be attempting to put in a new rear diff by yourself. Mabye find a freind thats got some mechanical intuition to help you out. All and all you read through this thread should answer all the questions you have and then your pretty much all set to just tackle the job. THanks for the DIY guide though found it nice to read about before actually doing the job.
    Nice. Do you have stock sways? My UUC sways are super thick and I couldn't even move it lower to access the top diff bolts. I HAD to remove mine. Plus, it made it a LOT easier to put the diff in and take it out.

    The tools, sockets, torque, etc., needed are in the post above yours. #132.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  10. #135
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    OH awsome yeah mine are stock id imagine the UUC's coudl be a bit different. I was thinking of getting those UUC sways how do you like them did you get them in the front and back or just rears. And what shocks/springs you runnin with yours. I just did the H and R sports with the Koni yellows but probably need to look into some new sway bars as well.

  11. #136
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    Quote Originally Posted by leedawg
    OH awsome yeah mine are stock id imagine the UUC's coudl be a bit different. I was thinking of getting those UUC sways how do you like them did you get them in the front and back or just rears. And what shocks/springs you runnin with yours. I just did the H and R sports with the Koni yellows but probably need to look into some new sway bars as well.
    I can't really tell. I wouldn't really get them unless you plan to track your car. I only got it because I was doing work down there and just decided to do it all at once (rotors, pads, suspension, x-brace, etc.). My car's very stiff now.

    I have Ground Control coilovers with Koni adjustables and camber/caster plates. 500f/550r spring rates. Pretty stiff for my daily.

    Oh, I have UUC front and rear sways with rear UUC links and front GC links.

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  12. #137
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    So no one can identify if I'm missing a lockring or washer or something in my pics?

  13. #138
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    clumpy, what is the BMW OEM bolt listed in your post #132?

  14. #139
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    I am hoping to do the swap this weekend and I have a few questions.

    Do I need to get new torx bolts and/or diff bolts?
    Do I need to use any compound (I forgot the name, locktite?) to keep the bolt secured in?

    thanks
    --h.

  15. #140
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    It is recomended to get new cv axle bolts, their ment to be tourqued only once.
    I think it's a waste of $$$ IMO but be carefull their easy to over tourque and break in the axle hub, done it before......
    You do not need locktight either typical tighten it up snug then a 1/4 turn is what worked for me. and has been holding ever since.

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  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrie
    It is recomended to get new cv axle bolts, their ment to be tourqued only once.
    I think it's a waste of $$$ IMO but be carefull their easy to over tourque and break in the axle hub, done it before......
    You do not need locktight either typical tighten it up snug then a 1/4 turn is what worked for me. and has been holding ever since.
    What torque did you use?

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  17. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccblanket
    clumpy, what is the BMW OEM bolt listed in your post #132?
    The OEM bolt is the bolt to replace the lower bolt (in case it's bent or broken in the differential).

    2005 Audi (Purchased 07/09) - 2005 Yamaha R6 (Raven) (Purchased 5/06)
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  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by clumpymold
    What torque did you use?
    I geusstimated......
    Officialy I beleive it's 18 ft/lbs for each bolt on the C.V. axles.

    Current Mods....X-Brace, Stromung Cat Back Exhaust, 17/225/45 M3 Replicas, HotBits Adjustable Coil Overs, 40% LSD 3:91 Diff, E30 Gearbox, Boosted.

  19. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrie
    I geusstimated......
    Officialy I beleive it's 18 ft/lbs for each bolt on the C.V. axles.
    18lb-ft? Are we talking about the same bolts? The ones that require the E12 socket? I torqued mine to ~45lb-ft.

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  20. #145
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    Do not know what an E12 socket is. I'm talking about the 12 female torx bolts (six per side) that hold the CV Axle's to the diff their easy to break and a pain to remove if they do.
    Think your talking about the bolt near the input flange in the front of the diff by the driveshaft & 45 ft/lbs sounds about right for it.
    Wish I could get you the exact #'s it says for you but lent my bently away.

    Current Mods....X-Brace, Stromung Cat Back Exhaust, 17/225/45 M3 Replicas, HotBits Adjustable Coil Overs, 40% LSD 3:91 Diff, E30 Gearbox, Boosted.

  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrie
    Do not know what an E12 socket is. I'm talking about the 12 female torx bolts (six per side) that hold the CV Axle's to the diff their easy to break and a pain to remove if they do.
    Those are torx bolts...males, not females. E12 means external torx socket. Torque spec depends on size of bolt...M8 is 47 ft-lb, M10 is 62 ft-lb.
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  22. #147
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    i torqued mine to 70lbs thats what the haynes manual said to do and none of them broke on me or striped. those things are flying around pretty fast so id imagine you dont want them flying out on ya. 25lbs i dont think is enough. the lug bolts on the wherls are torqued to 74ft lbs so it makes sense the half shafts are so tight.

  23. #148
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrie
    Do not know what an E12 socket is. I'm talking about the 12 female torx bolts (six per side) that hold the CV Axle's to the diff their easy to break and a pain to remove if they do.
    Think your talking about the bolt near the input flange in the front of the diff by the driveshaft & 45 ft/lbs sounds about right for it.
    Wish I could get you the exact #'s it says for you but lent my bently away.
    Female? Do you mean male? These are what I'm talking about:



    The front 4 bolts I couldn't even get a socket on those. Those are pretty tight though. I'd suspect something around 70lb-ft., at least.


    Quote Originally Posted by hellrot325
    Those are torx bolts...males, not females. E12 means external torx socket. Torque spec depends on size of bolt...M8 is 47 ft-lb, M10 is 62 ft-lb.
    Yep. So which one are those? That's what I couldn't figure out. M8 or m10?

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  24. #149
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    ^^ Yeah their what I'm talking about, Males my bad,
    74 lbs way too much I doubt I even had 40lbs when one snapped in the hub I remember reading in the Bently a 88lbs hence why I snapped the first one, re read and found it was really supposed to be around the 20 lbs mark.
    Geuss that is why they recomend you change them, single torqued.
    I'll try to get it back tonight and post all the proper specs from the Bently.

    I used a 3" extention and was really only one position I could easily crack & tighten them, just spun the wheel to that location for each bolt for easy access for all.

    Current Mods....X-Brace, Stromung Cat Back Exhaust, 17/225/45 M3 Replicas, HotBits Adjustable Coil Overs, 40% LSD 3:91 Diff, E30 Gearbox, Boosted.

  25. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffrie
    ^^ Yeah their what I'm talking about, Males my bad,
    74 lbs way too much I doubt I even had 40lbs when one snapped in the hub I remember reading in the Bently a 88lbs hence why I snapped the first one, re read and found it was really supposed to be around the 20 lbs mark.
    Geuss that is why they recomend you change them, single torqued.
    I'll try to get it back tonight and post all the proper specs from the Bently.
    I used a 3" extention and was really only one position I could easily crack & tighten them, just spun the wheel to that location for each bolt for easy access for all.
    I posted the proper spec's above. And they are not stretch bolts, they can be reused. Way earller in this thread I indicated where to position them for easier access.
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