it all were replaced by BMW under warranty
Replace Secondary Air Pump SAP
1 11-72-1-433-959 AIR PUMP
1 11-72-7-540-468 VALVE
1 11-72-7-505-259 GASKET ASBESTOS"
1 11-61-7-544-805 ADJUSTER UNIT
Replace Oil separator, hose and pipe
1 11-61-7-534-237 REPAIR KIT VER FOR COLD
1 11-15-7-532-629 VENT HOUSE
1 11-61-7-504-536 RETURN PIPE
VCG was not replaced , i just cleaned it
Last edited by champaign777; 04-30-2012 at 06:52 PM.
First and foremost AMAZING thread. People like yourself not only keep great cars alive but help many others do the same. You keep forums filled with a wealth of information. Nice car btw also lol.
What brings me here is a MINT 03 e39 530i. The car has 60k miles never been hit/painted. Sport + Xexons are the options that stand out to me. I am going to buy it once it he is ready to sell(soon). I have a few basic questions for you. Where did you source the piano black interior trim from? Love it.
Also at 60k on the clock what's some preventive maintaince stuff I should undoubtedly do? I don't want to fix things that aren't broken but I would like to be preventive in keeping the car running strong. It will be my dd and I will show it as much if not more love then the current owner.
Thanks in Advance
I think you should get rid of the spoiler and get a lip spoiler, and Mtech bumpers. Other then that car looks awesome!!
I would look here:
Common E39 Problems
Common problems and fixes
E39 Problems Checklist
Mike Miller's Old-school Maintenance Schedule:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1271469
Old School BMW Maintenance Schedule v02.11
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
thank you sir
yes i like MINT cars , this why i started this project
Just get one 2002-2003 530i with a Sport Package ( i doubt you can find one with so low miles, even M5 with low miles much easy to find than low miles 530i Sport )
+ on this forum you will find all info which you need
I would skip 2001 year as a first year of facelift
Cant comment on piano black interior trim as it was ordered by a first owner
GL
thanks for the comment but I cant agree with you
AC Schnitzer spoilers on this car are part of M package and they came from the factory . They look great and i like them
The factory bumpers on these cars are great as well , I have no intention of installing any M5 bumpers to be an M5 clone
The only thing which i probably would like to do is a cutting rear bumper for some nice tip / custom exhaust
and a lip from ECS on a front bumper
----------------------------------------
one more comment on all above
i found out that after 1000 miles car drives better
I think for all BIG job like i did above the Break-in Service is highly recommended
This is related to all suspension / engine / bearing / strut/ shock components
Last edited by champaign777; 05-31-2012 at 07:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
champaing how much improve your bass respond when you install the M Audio sub woofer?, versus the Nokia box?
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
it is i never use it even on 50%
improvement is the same as Nokia Vs no sub at all
I am in doubt about SC install
Everyone on m5 board says take M5 Vs 530i SC
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...-sport-sc.html
.
Last edited by champaign777; 05-31-2012 at 12:27 PM.
Do it, scOriginally Posted by champaign777
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
if i could i would get an m5
based on the reading i did supercharge doesn't seem like a great idea
96 318is Sport --sold
96 528ia Premium Comfort seats --sold
98 528ia euro sport pack BR41880-- sold
01 530ia Premium CE52247
02 540ia Individual GG91507
Two completely different things. Apples vs oranges.
If you're in doubt about a SC, then it's not for you. You have to balance all pros and cons of a SC I6 vs an M5 according to your money and what you usually do with your cars:
Go for the M5 if:
1. You don't care about mileage. Everyone say they care, but in reality most people can afford going from a 25mpg car to a 10mpg one. Be honest with yourself.
2. Your current E39 holds no sentimental value and you don't think it's irreplaceable.
3. You have other daily driver(s) and you use your E39 on occasions/not too frequently. You can afford having an M5 down for maintenance.
4. You don't think the rack-and-pinion steering is such an improvement over recirculating balls and you're not in love with BMW's I6 engines.
5. You live in a place with good roads, long straights, little traffic, relaxed cops.
6. You're not that much into mechanical modding and you prefer stock, factory power over add ons.
7. You won't be satisfied with a supercharged E39 and you know you will still want an M5.
Why I went for a SC instead?
2. I've spent so much money for my E39 to be as reliable as it is now. I truly don't want to go over all this again with a "new"/unknown car.
3. I use my car as a daily. An M5 wouldn't be practical IMHO/wouldn't really take advantage of owning one.
4. I'm in love with BMW's I6s. I think it's what BMW was born to do. In any case, I would buy an E46 M3 before an M5 just because of that I6.
5. Bad roads, too much traffic. An M5 would never be able to stretch its legs on public roads. Even quick bursts could cause massive damage or an accident here.
I can afford buying an M5, paying for its fuel and parts. Also, I would LOVE to own one but it's simply not rational nor practical for me, hence my decision to SC. An M is an M no matter what you do to your humble non-M E39. But even then, there is a feeling of accomplishment when someone asks you what's under your bonnet and you say it's a supercharged BMW. We're a selected few and it feels great. There are 3 or 4 E39 M5s here and just 1 supercharged E39.
Last edited by crdiscoverer; 05-31-2012 at 01:21 PM.
Resident Third World Country Advisor
Champaign about your posts on 4/2 and 4/19
Are those side window visors and do you like them?
Which side of the trunk do these fit in , I think I need one of those to put a qt of oil and rags in
Do you have a part #
this was a good one , i like it
one day i want to remove window visors , another day i want to keep them
the good :
sunny protection
you can open window when it rains outside and be dry inside
the bad
noise after 90-100MPH
more gas consuming ?
the trunk box is from the right side , i dont remember part#
Last edited by champaign777; 05-31-2012 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Sc your 530i and put an LSD
E39, 523i, 1999, M52TUB30, 5 SPEED MANUAL, UUC SHORT SHIFTER, EURO SPECS, KONI YELLOWS, OEM SPORTS SPRINGS, OEM SPORTS SEATS, ALCANTARA HEADLINER AND /A/B/C PILLARS, OEM M-TECHNIC AERODYNAMIC, OEM M5 FRONT GRILLS, OEM M5 REAR FOLDING MIRRORS, OEM M5 REAR SWAYBAR, OEM M-TECHNIC II FRONT SWAYBAR, REMUS DUAL TIP MUFFLER, TITANSILVER, BIXENON, M PARALLEL SPOKE 66 STAGGERED, OEM M-AUDIO SYSTEM, NAV SCREEN 16:9, INTRAVEE II iPOD INTERFACE, OEM TCM WITH BLUETOOTH, Y RESONATOR DELETE, INTAKE HORN DELETE, CDV DELETE, CHARCOAL TITANIUM BRUSHED TRIM, FAN CLUTCH DELETE, ELECTRIC FAN, 3.15LSD DIFFERENTIAL, ESS TS2+ SUPERCHARGER, AQUAMIST METHANOL + WATER INJECTION
PANAMA, CIUDAD DE PANAMA
Are they the weather tech in channel one's or something else ?
How do they look on the car ? Getto or just right with 35% tint
Last edited by bluewater530; 06-01-2012 at 07:27 AM.
After 2-3k miles i dicided to take care of my brakes
I knew it will happen so nothing that I did not expect
The issue :
-- a lot of dust from OEM pads which are killing my 5 style wheels
-- Driver front wheel a bit hot after long trips . When I spin it it’s not as smooth as a right one
So I decided to rebuild my 4 calipers as well
-- need to change brake fluid . Never did it, so its time to do it
-- rear pads are 80 % gone and front 60 % . Going to buy a new rotors and pads as well
As many folks say we need some air compressor so found a good deal at Harbor Freight
Also bought Front/ Rear Caliper Rebuild Kit, Brake Hoses , Guide Bushing Repair Kit and ATE Super Blue brake fluid from Pelican parts
Here i used CNN DIY wery well documented as a reference
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=538290
First cleaned wery well caliper and pistons
This job is must to have air tool , i am using it for the first time and have no idea how i worked before w/o it
Replace inner seal
install rubber boot from the top of picton and move it down
now install rubber boot into piston , start from one side , use 2 fingers to push the backside of the new rubber boot in place.
This part is a bit tricky , first i installed piston into caliper 2-3 time for easy installation and only then
started final installation with a rubber boot on the piston
When it was done i was able to move caliper into place with fingers only w/o any tool ( this is a good sigh for the right installation i think )
Replace Guide Bushing ( I decided to replace them , they are cheap )
Done for the front
Rears did with CNN suggestion for the special tool from the old rubber boot
I am checking for a good deal on pads & rotors , any help is mucho appreciated
Last edited by champaign777; 06-24-2012 at 08:11 PM.
CCV and hoses degrade and gum up with age. From my experience they haven't gotten bad enough to have specific symptoms, but replacement has improved gas mileage and throttle response. VCGs leak like it's their job. If it's not leaking, it will, but no reason to replace it ahead of time unless you're pulling the VC for some reason. DISAs are known to fail sometimes, not sure for OP but if you've got the money it's not a bad preventative item.
Most of this had been done recently when I purchased my e39, but I did it all and VANOS seals on my e46 in one afternoon. It was a high mileage car and the difference was notable, to say the least.
I checked my lines and they appear to be good so i decided do not replace them for now
Ordered Akebano Euro pads and Zimmerman rotors
Need to bleed my brakes for the first time , get compressor and motive euro bleeder ,
will see which way is better ...
http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Techno...luminum+Europe
Last edited by champaign777; 06-26-2012 at 09:34 PM.
Looks like a good staff ( I hope ) , not a China crap
Akebano Euro made in USA and Zimmermann FLAT rotors made in Germany
Last edited by champaign777; 07-19-2012 at 06:49 PM.
So i left my system open for a week with brake calipers removed and I forgot to pour fluid back into reservoir
When i came back after a week main reservoir was empty
( I know my bad , but i am doing it for the first time )
Now i installed new rotors, pads, rebuild calipers and bled the system with compressor under 15 psi ( CNN method )
All went smooth , no air bubbles but my pedal is soft and i have excessive brake pedal travel
I believe that is because reservoir was empty and i probably got air into the system
I am reading this thread with a lot of good info
http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...1#post13121466
Tomorrow i will try to re-bleed my system +ABS with help of BMW software ( DIS )
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here we go with GT1 BLEEDING
The bleeding is under service function => DCS 5.7 => Control module / hydraulics => bleeding, DCS hydraulics
I was searching this info around 1H , was really not easy to find where this option is
finally
Next you go to test plan and read 1-8 how to proceed
Basically 1-5 explained by CNN as a one man bleeding
1-man Hydraulic Bleeding Kit for those with Air Compressor!
So I used euro ATE Euro Cap for the air compressor which come with a Black Label Aluminum European Power Bleeder ( i didnt use it , only the perfect aluminum cap )
Now top fluid to MAX mark in reservoir , install ATE Euro Cap on the top of reservoir and connect it to air compressor using the quick disconnect
Keep air compressor UNDER 15 PSI ( TIS said less than 2 bar )
Now attach empty bottle to the small connector on RR caliper , release it and start to bleed with GT1 in the following order
1. Start bleeding , - it will push fluid down to the empty bottle
2. Activate pressupply pump , - this will activate pump ( more fluid )
3. Press pedal 5 times as far it is will go
Top more fluid and repeat for the LR, then RF and then LF, every time add more fluid
Now i dont have any single buble in my system ( It was some air in ABS for the FL driver side caliper ) but still my pedal is soft
In the end i think it is new Akebano pads problem , looks like they are total CRAP , i am going to send them back and buy some quality pads
Stay tuned
Last edited by champaign777; 07-01-2012 at 11:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Akebono Ultra Ceramic pads i get were made somewhere in the south China
one side was 13 MM
and another side was almost 14 MM
When you push brakes on such a crappy pads this is what happens
And this is after 10 miles only of very gentle brakes
Ended up with England EBC Red Stuff Brake Pads , so far so good
You get what you pay for
Last edited by champaign777; 07-20-2012 at 01:05 AM.
OP, will you be my mechanic?
nice thread!
i don't understand... you said you got Akebono pads that were made in USA.. and now you're saying they are made in China?
I've installed dozen's of sets of Akebono pads on many BMWs and non-BMWs cars and have never had a problem with them. Everyone who has them (based on my recommendation, since I helped them install it) have loved them. They have to be broken in properly though... they don't grip very well when they are fresh... but after a few break-in cycles (also known as "bedding in" the brake pads), they work great.
when you see one side > other side on 1 MM you think they can be made only in South China ( or Zimbabwe ) even it mentioned USA
LOL
Last edited by champaign777; 07-30-2012 at 01:46 PM.
Albo's Official Upgrade Thread:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=532572
2003 530i (Alpine White/Sand Beige w/ Retrofitted Black Plug Sport Seats) - 18x8.5 & 18x9.5 AC Schnitzer Type II Wheels w/ 245/40/18 Tires - BC Racing Coilovers - Eibach Front & Rear Sway Bars - Beastpower Rear Sway Bar Brackets - M-Technic Replica Bumpers - Slimmbones CSL-Style Spltters - Magnaflow 14816 Muffler - Dinan Cold Air Intake - TopSpeed Performance Strut Brace - Carbon Fiber Valve Cover Fascias - Zionsville Autosport Radiator/Fan Kit - EMP Stewart Water Pump - ECS Tuning Aluminum Water Pump Pulley - Revmax Stage II Torque Converter - AMG Paddle Shifters - E90 Shift Knob + More to Come!!
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