just finished my weekend project:
m62tu vanos seals
timing guides
oil separator
took all weekend long plus, but was worth it.
seals work perfectly, no more diesel sound after warm up.
thanks raj.
And no check engine light? Multiple starts, plus driving the car? That'd be great news for the rest of us who are struggling to re-time the motor without getting the P0021 code (over-advanced).
If you WERE successful in timing, would you be willing to chat with me via phone to discuss the timing procedure? I'm putting together a "M62TU Timing Procedure Best Practices" document that I'll eventually share with the beta test group and with this board.
--Peter
'03 540i-6
153k mi; bought April ‘07 w/38k mi
Silv/Blk, CWP, UUC SSK w/DSSR, M5 diff, JBR LW FW, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, Zionsville w/2-stage fan, coolant hoses, M60 intake manifold, motor-out overhaul (powder-coated VCs, TCGs, valley pan, coolant mani, head gaskets, heads refurb, all other gaskets, seals), Beisan vanos, PS pump & hoses, AC comp, fuel pump & filter, washer hoses, 88-degree thermo, DUDMD tune, Vibrant Racing muffler, Zeck CDV, Brembo solid-disc rotors w/ Textron pads & UUC SS brake lines, Dinan springs w/Koni Yellow shocks/struts, M5 front & rear sway bars, H&R 10mm spacers & studs front & rear, Pilot Sport A/S 3s, headlight adj repair, polished headlight lenses, 6k Umnitza Xenon & AE bulbs, new OEM M-Sport bumpers, gauge rings, permanent seat-twist repair to front seats, ZHP shift knob, M5 headliner kit (reinforced A-pillar clips), Schmiedmann pedals, MID & cluster pixel repair, Bavsound Stage 1 speaker upgrade & dedicated amp w/DSP subwoofers, retrofitted cupholder
Havnt got any codes yet.... how long r u driving before codes? Did u have any issues during the install? Did u have any problems lining up the upper timing covers?
been driving for most of the day... multiple on and off cycles, wide open throttle runs and no codes yet... ( fingers crossed )....
Last edited by papajetta; 02-27-2012 at 05:52 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Is it that hard to time the m62?
It is not "hard" just have to be picky and exact.
I helped raj develop this product as my car is used in his guide. I had my car apart more than several times.
Raj has called ne multiple times to talk about this issue. If you guys would like I might be able to assist you.
i agree, there is no room for even the slightest error. the cam gears freewheel on the camshaft , so there is no pin or bolt where it falls exactly where its supposed to.
i think the biggest chance of error is with the timing cover. once u put the new timing cover seal , its very hard to line up the timing cover fluch to the head , and therfore i can see how the cam sensor would not line perfectly with the cam wheel.
Ballard, would live to compare notes. Raj and I have had some great, detailed conversations. I've done everything by the TIS book.
That said, a question. When I removed the cam sprockets and chains, I DID NOT lock the cam tensioners down -- didn't have the clips. Would that cause timing issues, per chance?
My persistent code after multiple re-time efforts is P0021, BTW.
--Peter
Sent from my DROID2 using BF.com
'03 540i-6
153k mi; bought April ‘07 w/38k mi
Silv/Blk, CWP, UUC SSK w/DSSR, M5 diff, JBR LW FW, SPEC Stage 2 clutch, Zionsville w/2-stage fan, coolant hoses, M60 intake manifold, motor-out overhaul (powder-coated VCs, TCGs, valley pan, coolant mani, head gaskets, heads refurb, all other gaskets, seals), Beisan vanos, PS pump & hoses, AC comp, fuel pump & filter, washer hoses, 88-degree thermo, DUDMD tune, Vibrant Racing muffler, Zeck CDV, Brembo solid-disc rotors w/ Textron pads & UUC SS brake lines, Dinan springs w/Koni Yellow shocks/struts, M5 front & rear sway bars, H&R 10mm spacers & studs front & rear, Pilot Sport A/S 3s, headlight adj repair, polished headlight lenses, 6k Umnitza Xenon & AE bulbs, new OEM M-Sport bumpers, gauge rings, permanent seat-twist repair to front seats, ZHP shift knob, M5 headliner kit (reinforced A-pillar clips), Schmiedmann pedals, MID & cluster pixel repair, Bavsound Stage 1 speaker upgrade & dedicated amp w/DSP subwoofers, retrofitted cupholder
I have never locked my tensioners down at any point where I have retimed one. I never seen the need to.
Also on the cover I think more error lies with holding the cams and not letting the blocks rise off the heads any. That's the only times I have gotten codes before. I had timing over advance because when I tightened the torx bolts on front I let the cam slip slightly. And I got the codes.
Other then that I never had a problem...
Last edited by Ballard540; 02-28-2012 at 08:57 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Was there a noticeable increase in power and torque ?
I did a set for a friend of mine here in Cleveland after the seals were developed and he noticed a big difference. Plus increased gas mileage. And no noise. So.... I seen good all around
How long did the job take?Originally Posted by Ballard540
I will be doing the valley pan before the warm weather arrives and the valve covers should be much easier to manage with everything off of the top of the motor.
Also I am having a hard time locating a vanos " repair kit"
I looked up Dr Vanos and besian systems and have came up empty in my attempts.
Besian hasn't "released" it yet. It's still in testing with a couple glitches here and there.
Um if you just wanna do the vanos its one day just kinda hanging out. If you wanna replace all the guides also then its one day staying busy all day.
To do the vanos no you do not have to remove the entire front. Just top end and front two upper timing covers. Peace the bottom.
If you do all the rails then you need to removed front lower cover and lower oil pan to gain bolt access. Not a big deal. Pretty cool job really.
I am good friends with Raj owner of Besian systems. And I helped him develop the seals so that's how I got them.
Where do you live at?
Last edited by Ballard540; 02-28-2012 at 10:13 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Power delivery feels smooth and torque feels flat throughout the entire rpm range...
I needed to do the oil separator, that's why I dug in to the bottom. I think most people
Should just do tensioners and oil separator while they are that far anyways because its known to go bad eventually. Entire job took me about 30 hours, however I think I can do it in about half of that next time.... I also took the intake runners off. For the ccv tube.
I do agree that maintaining the cam locks firmly planted while locking the cam sprockets is imperative, as they do try to rise in the process.
I also think BMW did a very poor Job with the upper timing covers design. If anything ever needed Dowel pins , it would be these covers. Why would they make floating covers?
I have wondered why they float also.... I can't really think of a good reason to be honest. Except for the fact that every cover on the car doesn't have a dowel. I personally wish the 540 had the M5 cover design. It has bolts all across the front of the cover which pulls it down. Very smart. Makes it worse taking apart. But no alignment problemOriginally Posted by e34 M killa
The covers floating don't make a big difference in the cam timing readings. I spent a fair amount of time quantifying the assorted variables being discussed here on the forums and mail list. As long as the covers are close to level with the top of the head, you're good.
Everyone focuses on the timing of the cams. Timing the cams is important to how well the engine will run. But it has nothing to do with these codes. The codes are caused by the (mis)timing of the trigger wheels, which is an entirely separate step.
/.randy
In total honesty , i didnt follow every single step to a tee, however i did know how critical correctly timing freewheeling sprockets is.when i had to tension yhe chain i just finger tightened the tensioner making sure all cams were moving freely until yhere was no movement from the sprockets and even tension on both sides of the chain...
Also didnt notice any of the instructions for the timing wheel tool. I just installed them on yhe head and they fell right on without any slack ... After the fact was when i noticed on the instructions that it was supposed to lay flat on the top part of the head.
I live in Indianapolis .Originally Posted by Ballard540
What do you mean by " peace the bottom"?
think he meant to say price the bottom... which is exactly what i suggested also...
timing guides, oil separator, oil pan gasket and other associated gaskets.
Sorry for the confusion. I don't get much time at work to respond and when I do its very brief and I stay moving so I make mistakes. I would price everything in the job then see what you want and need to do
Day #3 still no cel.... P 0021...
How long would it take to come on if there is a problem
Two engine starts of at least 5 seconds each if you are out of range.
/.randy
guess im good to go then
Eric did mine at 117K and I am now at 122K. Knock on wood, nary a CEL.
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