We used CDL3 which had very good CAN support and fed the M800 & PDM.
The Motorsports version ran at 1Mbit
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Peter Florance
PFTuning.com
Thanks for the quick answers guys!
The CAN is the only mystery part, but at this point, it's not that critical ... I can get the wheel speeds directly, and I already have another set of pressure sensors I can run directly into the AIM. I have an M800 ... hopefully my tuning/ecu guy can figure something out
I can also confirm the E46 330i CAN Bus is 500 kb/s
Peter Florance
PFTuning.com
The wheelspeed outs on the Teves MK60 are NOT CAN, they are direct digital outs that can be read by anything that reads digital sensors. I run those outs directly to my M1 ECU.
--Peter
Good to know ... but there is only the rears (unless the 330i harness is different? The pins are empty for where the fronts would be). Also, I'd rather run 2 wires (CAN) and get everything rather than a bunch of wires if possible. I'll probably run the digital outs directly to the Aim dash. More accurate than the GPS probably.
All I know is that on the standalone harness I made from the pinout, there are four wheelspeed digital outs. I ran those to my M1 ECU's digital sensor inputs. Others have run them to the digital sensor inputs of a Pectel SQ6.
Interesting ... which ABS module do you have (part number)? regular M3, CSL, or the Motorsports version? Is yours the Mk60E5? My harness (from a 2004 330i) only has Right Rear, and Left Rear "processed" outputs. This is also what is listed in the BMW wiring diagrams for the M3.
It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.
Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997
I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!
I guess I should add the leads for the front wheel speeds, in case I don't get CAN working.
Ok, next question: What tools do you guys use to pin the BMW connectors? have links to where I can buy? I assume the pins themselves are BMW, but they must have a generic supplier as well? How about some info on how they are assembled (ie, removing pins, etc).
Great info all ... when I get this done I might compile it all into a single thread since it's a bit chaotic right now :/
I got my contacts and seals from Curt Jung. I think realoem lists them.
I used the $30.00 crimper from Ballenger Motorsports and it worked great.
I'll post a link
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Peter Florance
PFTuning.com
So I hooked it all up, plugged in the laptop to the ODBII port, flicked on the switch .... and nothing. Then I remembered that I have to put fuses into the fuse holders I installed, and magically it all works
Thanks for the tips everyone!
Don't recall any ticking, but I'll be working on tucking the wiring out of the way tonight so I'll take a close listen. I was able to run the individual unlock tests on each wheel, and all the pumps and valves appear to be doing their job. I get all speed sensors, pressure sensors, and brake pedal switch data in INPA. Don't have a DSC sensor yet (in the mail), but everything else appears to be ok.
Can anyone confirm that the M3 CSL ABS module does indeed send out all four wheel speeds on pins 8, 10, 12, and 14, or is that only the Motorsports unit? I'd like a confirmation before I start to modify the connector and wiring (my connector from a 330i does not have pins 12 and 14 wired).
This isn't entirely true with regards to hardware...
There is one part number for the mk60 controller+pump that you buy from BMW. But within that part number there 3 different ATE part numbers for the control units. The ones ending in 813 and 818 are the more desirable units. Of those, only the 813 units can be flashed to the CSL program. The pump hardware is likely the same but there's some variation in the control units that should noted. The 813 units are harder to track down and eBay has been notorious for sellers showing 813 units and shipping 818 units.
I have an 813, but haven't found a reliable source that can flash CSL or Motorsports programs into the unit. Has anyone got a proven source, with documentation of the difference?
I ask, because you can code any of the units, but flashing the full software has proven to be vaporware from all that I've seen and my friends who are helping reverse engineer the flashing process. I'd love to be able to send mine off to someone to flash it but have only heard "I know/heard about some guy in Europe/UK who'll do it for $many"
My big concern is that there's a real possibility of paying for nothing with such a nebulous service offered.
Last edited by Bimmerman535i; 05-09-2016 at 02:41 PM.
"Fear disturbs your concentration" -Sabine Schmit
1995 BMW M3/2/5-- S54 + Mk60 DSC, California Smog Legal (Build Thread)
1998 BMW M3/4/5 Alpine/Modena, Z3 Rack, otherwise stock-- DD without burbles
2017 Chevy SS, Orange Blast Metallic, 6MT -- DD with burbles
I've never read anything super concrete about the CSL code being that much better than the plain jane version. Perhaps if you're using the DSC portion it is. Since the CSL/Comp Package cars had the M-track mode which allowed additional slip angle before it stepped in. But again, I've never seen anything concrete on why it's better (if it is).
Never came across that number. Is yours a Post-2002 or pre-2002? They switched to the later version (mk60) at that time.
According to INPA info, it's a 2003/06. It's the CSL specific part number (according to this post: http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showp...&postcount=134)
Last edited by ScotcH; 05-09-2016 at 03:57 PM.
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