I did not use a LED. I used 2 resistors in series across 12V and the ABS error output. I connected the center point to the AIM Pista input. When ABS is OK, the error output is high and the center point is floating near 12V. When ABS fails, the ABS error goes low and pulls the center point to half 12V (assuming I used something like two 1k resistors.) This is setup in the Pista to turn on one of the warning lights. So no I did not directly use a LED. The ABS may not be able to sink enough current to fully turn your LED on? Your 300 ohm resistor should be low enough to light your 30 mA led IF the ABS/DSC module has that amount of sinking capacity. I know that 30 mA is a low number. You have to actually get the ABS in error mode. This can be done be rotating a wheel when everything is powered. I have seen this come on in the shop after I was rotating wheels. Chris
Last edited by CP Louie; 08-22-2012 at 07:33 AM.
#175 CM E46 M3
Former Knee Dragger
Real name= Chris P. Lewis
Occupation= Green House Gas Creator, but I planted a GARDEN last year.
"When you live inside a vacuum, nothing sucks"
http://flickr.com/photos/8150451@N03...7602830737584/
It's in error mode, wheel speed sensors are disconnected. The behaviour of the light is as expected, just missing out on light intensity...
I've figured it out... 1 resistor, 1 led, a lot of swearing, but working now...
If anyone needs the solution, PM me.
I tried to get my light to work, but the stored codes for the DME and CAN timeout and LWS are keeping the light lit all the time. How did you work around that?
It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.
Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997
I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!
I still got codes for can-bus communication fault with instruments and engine control unit, missing steering angle sensor +++, but pressure sensors, ''dsc-sensor'', wheel speed sensors, brake light, handbrake and brake fluid level inputs are connected and ok. This is enough to make the light not indicate. Dsc light will still be on, but this is lit in the instruments via can-bus. And my e30 don't have that light... Yet...
So the warning light is off when all the wheel speed sensors are connected and on when one is disconnected? (i.e. off when ABS operational, and on when no operational)
It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.
Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997
I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!
Yup
Z3 sensor not bolton for e30 in the rear arms. 4 mm too short. Needs to "adjust"(grind) the mounting tabs on sensors, or machine off the mounting point in the arm. Needs to remove 4mm.
Looking for some insight here. After running the new brake lines and installing all of the necessary wiring I can't seem to get the pump to function as it should. When powered the unit seems to initiate a start up sequence but never progresses. There is an audible clicking which doesn't stop. Sounds like the pump is priming. The fault light is on and doesn't shut off. Due to various other unfinished items I can't drive the car but it have rotated the wheels on the lift and the light stays on. Any ideas?
Diagnostics? Fault codes? And you are sure all of the wiring is correct, including the grounds?
sent by me, with Tapatalk 2
Mine's making all the correct noises, but fluid reservoir not put on yet, neither is the engine or transmission, therefore the system is not bled yet.
On the diagnostic tester all looks allright, except brake fluid level indicator... E30 completes the circuit when the level is low, and e46 breaks the circuit when the level is low. Probably have to do som stunt with a pull up resistor or something like that here as well.
But all wheel speed signals are there, handbrake signal, "dsc sensor" signals (side- and lenghtways acceleration), brakelight signal, check light goes dark like it should. Probably going to be a year or more until mine gets a taste of open roads...!
Works on my car. Warning light doesn't though.
It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.
Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997
I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!
I am planning on doing a MK60 conversion on a e36 M3. I am also converting to a dual MC setup with balance bar. Since I need to route lines for everything, is there any reason not to put the ABS pump in the passenger compartment? Seems like it makes plumbing easier plus move a little weight rearward. I understand that the pump might be noisy but doubt that is a big deal in a full out race car.
Christopher
STX 197
1997 328is
Just a note about wheel speed sensors and the MK60 ABS module. After many discussions with Neel Vasavada and reading the boards, I was convinced that E39 M5 wheel speed sensors, which are standard Hall Effect sensors, would not work. Jason Gannett at Turner hooked me up with Curt Jung, the ABS master himself, who actually tested the E39 M5 Hall sensor with an MK60, and it worked beautifully. Thus, as soon as the harness is done, I will be installing the mK60 CSL pump in my E39 M5 and using the stock wheels sensors and reluctor rings.
--Peter
Fascinating Peter!
Curt is a very, very knowledgeable guy on ABS... I've had the pleasure of several conversations with him, and he's worked on so many high level competition projects, its not even funny.
I'm going out on a limb here....
First off, this is GREAT news, and makes transplants much easier..... People should know that the majority of older cars ran VR sensors, Mk20 ABS was seen on early E46 M3 cars, as well as E39 M5. I'm sure its on many more cars. The Mk 20 ran Hall Sensors, very different from VR that you'd find on E36/E30/E34 and earlier.
However, and this is probably a minor issue... I do not think that the Mk60 will have the same ability to detect a bad sensor if you hack in hall sensors that might work functionally for giving a signal to the ABS computer..... Supposedly, even at stand-still, the Mk 60 speed sensors are different enough that error detection of a bad sensor is possible....So... plugging in BMW diagnostic computers for reading Mk60 Teves may not work properly.
I'm sure Curt has not mislead you as to whether the system will "work" from ABS, EBD etc aspects...but I wonder about detection of error situations etc...
Alex. (thanks for posting!)
Alex Lipowich
xyobgyn on AOL
Trying to make the world a better place with 5 extra throttle bodies at a time.
E39 sensors with blue connectors will work with mk60, with fault detection and everything, tried on mine when trying to find suitable as close to bolt on sensors for my car.
Think the blue connectors are from 09/98 or 09/99
Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Yes,the blue connector sensors work for DSC 5(E39,E38,E53 and E46 iX) and MK60 (E46 and late models Z3).I believe that they are installed for 99 year model on the E38 and E39,but 02 model year on the E46.
Quick question: what are you guys using to connect the pressure sensors into the front and rear master cylinder lines? I assume some sort of "t" connector? Any recommendations before I scour the Internet? Thanks.
--Peter
cnc882m_2.jpgIMG_5672.JPGIMG_5678.JPG
I used this part from CNC brakes. It's made to use dual brake light switches but I used a NPT to flare adapter and put the sensors in. I made a bracket for it which also holds the yaw sensor. Brings the wiring all to the same spot and makes for a clean install.
- - - Updated - - -
IMG_5912.jpgIMG_5789.jpg
More pics of my install...
Last edited by Simon P; 10-18-2013 at 10:36 PM.
Loves maple syrup...
Very nice! I anticipate using hard lines, but I'm sure I could find an adapter. Thanks very much.
About the only thing I found that may work (if the sensors are m10 x1.0 threads) is this:
http://store.fedhillusa.com/tm183.aspx.
do you happen to know what size the threads are for the pressure sensors?
--Peter
Pretty sure they are M10 X 1.0 like you said.
That "T" would certainly work. It's the same "T" that BMW uses on the 3 channel cars (early E36 going backwards) to split the rear lines at the rear axle.
Loves maple syrup...
I think the threads are m12x1, and you can use a similar t-piece from any e60, think it is on cars with adaptive cruise control.
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