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Thread: heater hose routing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Poland,ME,USA
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    1998 m3 3/4/5 LS1/t56

    heater hose routing

    I am tying everything up and cutting the coolant hoses to length is one of the last things left. I want to make sure i am routing everything correctly. The outlet house on the ls1 to the heater core is the smaller nipple? Then dose the outlet house route right to the heater core valve? And the return line from the heater core before it enters the engine should have the overflow tank tied in?
    Am i correct on these things?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Memphis
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    10 535i, 97 M3, 69 1602
    ask and ye shall receive !



    Lastly You want to T in your steam hose to the radiator. Theres a couple options for this some people tap the waterpump (harder and you need tap skills) top of the return line with a JTR flange, top of the radiator overflow really it depends on preference and your setup! also be sure the line coming from the bottom of the overflow container thats T'd into the inlet is lower than the overflow otherwise it wont pull coolant in and fill the motor.

    Shoot me a pm if you have any questions or want pics or something!

  3. #3
    M5Hunter is offline Still has a E39 Supporting Vendor
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    Man that diagram has come in handy =)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Poland,ME,USA
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    1998 m3 3/4/5 LS1/t56
    thanks for the info, just hooked all the lines. I ran them close to the engine like some have done. This keeps the return line below the filled height of the tank. The lines however sit about 2in or so from the headers. Do you guys think the lines will be affected by the heat? I was looking through the vorshlag pics before i asked my routing question to try and verify it myself and ran across this pic

    http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Projects...382_HvZ32-A-LB

    It would seem to me that line that runs over the fender would be the highest point unless the tank was topped off. Wouldn't this not allow the rad to pull from the tank, or am I just over thinking it?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
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    USA
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    96 328is 6.0L
    There must be either another solution or it is not finished as I don't see a T in one of those hoses for the expension tank.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
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    Houston
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    LS e39, LT e53
    So I have a question too... Im working with a e46... probally the same cooling schematic, but attached is the e46 cooling schematic from the training manual. Based on the schematic, couldnt I just loop off the 2 hoses at the lower expansion tank and just use the 2 fittings on the LS waterpump and connect them in proper order?... Seems right, one in one out, just like the schematic shows. Or am I missing some sort of important use of the ET hoses.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    FL Gulf Coast
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    E36 - 1998 328iS - LS2
    BUMP

    As best I can tell, all three nipples on the heater valve are the same size (3/4"?).

    The middle nipple on the firewall is smaller than the outer nipples (middle 5/8" and both outer 3/4").

    The diagram below and the photo of the stock configuration show the firewall middle (5/8") going directly to the top left heater valve (3/4").

    I'm guessing the stock hose is sized differently on either end? I don't recall reading about any of you guys splicing 5/8" to 3/4" hose to make this connection. Are you just forcing the 5/8" hose from the middle firewall nipple onto the top left heater valve 3/4" nipple?







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