97318iLSX

[LS1 E36]

I'm using the stock C5 pump with the stock E36 318 rack. No issues whatsoever. The only time I've ever had PS noise is when there was a suction side issue (kinked hose, loose clamp allowing air in, etc).

[Albertan]

Hoses would all be correct size. I had hoses made up by my local industrial hydraulic hose company. I did put a small cooler in the rack to pump reservoir but that is a low pressure location. I did some searching and there is some info that says the BMW rack wants higher pressure than a GM pump will put out but I couldn't find any actual technical details. I should mention when the engine is running the PS pump is quiet. It is just when turning the wheels when parking that is makes noise, no harder than it should be either. I should watch and listen while someone it turning the steering wheel. I suppose there is a possibility of the noise coming from a tight hose bend or something like that.

[topfuelman]

Hey since you are local...
If you want to get together to review any gm/bmw technical issues/possible solutions...hit me up. I have something similar to your project that I have been tinkering with for about 10 years. If there is a possible issue..with this type of conversion I have probably had it and eventually worked it out.

Trev
Airdrie, ab.

Hoses would all be correct size. I had hoses made up by my local industrial hydraulic hose company. I did put a small cooler in the rack to pump reservoir but that is a low pressure location. I did some searching and there is some info that says the BMW rack wants higher pressure than a GM pump will put out but I couldn't find any actual technical details. I should mention when the engine is running the PS pump is quiet. It is just when turning the wheels when parking that is makes noise, no harder than it should be either. I should watch and listen while someone it turning the steering wheel. I suppose there is a possibility of the noise coming from a tight hose bend or something like that.

[Albertan]

I will have the car at the Stanley Park car show this Saturday July 19? It runs just fine but sounds pretty much like a race car with open headers.
I think there should be a number of BMWs there. Mine is the silver 4 door 318i!

[topfuelman]

Does one need to register to have one's car in the park/show?
I also have a silver 4 dr
I'll try to make it down!

Trev

[LS1 E36]

I'll probably be there with mine. You can register as you show up. Try to be there by 10. It's a big show.

[Albertan]

I find that the car is a lot louder than I thought it would be. The engine is a 418 ci LSX with pretty aggressive cam. I've read a dyno test on this engine and it was over 630hp at crank. I have the Vorslag SS headers, perforated cones in the collectors, high flow cats, x pipe, Moroso race mufflers and Vibrant resonators. The entire system is 3" dual stainless. I'm reading about 90 db in the car and about the same at the back.
I'm wanting to use lizard skin under the floor board and under the carpet. Also I was thinking about putting Corvette coil covers and Dynomax ultraflow muffler to replace the resonators.
Has anyone else had similar noise issues and what did you do?

[Bluebimma]

Remove race mufflers and install a non-straight through muffler. It'll help with noise. A factory or msport muffler quiets the v8s down quite a bit without smothering. Also, if you're solid mounted, that's a lot of the noise as well.

[Albertan]

The Dynomax ultraflow has 2 3" inlets and 2 3" outlets. I would remover the resonators and put this muffler in place. The race mufflers fit underneath 4" dia and that is why I used them. I checked and this muffler is supposed to be quieter than most after market mufflers. Seems any stock mufflers are huge and probably why they work!
I'm thinking I'm getting a lot of engine noise inside as well.

[Bluebimma]

The Dynomax ultraflow has 2 3" inlets and 2 3" outlets. I would remover the resonators and put this muffler in place. The race mufflers fit underneath 4" dia and that is why I used them. I checked and this muffler is supposed to be quieter than most after market mufflers. Seems any stock mufflers are huge and probably why they work!
I'm thinking I'm getting a lot of engine noise inside as well.

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...Mean-Slow.aspx


Have you thought about a vacuum or pressure activated muffler?

[Albertan]

Yes, I looked at that but they don't have 2 inlet style so I would have had to use two but wouldn't have room.

[Bluebimma]

that sucks

[Albertan]

Solved the power steering noise. Just a little bit low on fluid. Of course it might have just taken a while to get rid of the air in the system as well.
Now on to my next issue. I have a twin disk clutch and shifting over 4500 rpm is about impossible. So I actually searched this forum and found I wasn't alone. You'd have thought that with all the reading of other swaps I have done I would have encountered this shifting issue. Looks like the nice new stock BMW master is 0.716 dia. Just not enough volume to release the clutch especially a twin disk. Many people have gone to a 7/8 dia and it works better. I guess my question is will the 7/8 dia be good or should I go with a 1"? I think I will use the Tilton 77 series ultra compact. It is expensive but I have already spent my children's inheritance on this so why not a couple hundred more?

[LS1 E36]

Keep in mind pressure plate travel and pedal force will increase by 50% for 7/8 and 100% for 1".

[Albertan]

It does seem like most are using the 7/8 master. Actually many people with LS powered cars are switching to aftermarket masters for the same reason.
Just drove my CTSV the other day and the clutch is really easy compared to the swap car. With new master it will be something like my old Olds 442 4 speed. I couldn't hold the clutch down through a traffic light. I will see how it works.

[Albertan]

I finished the Tilton series 77 master cylinder install. See my thread on clutch pedal for my fun and games doing it!

[Albertan]

Took the car for a short drive today. I have a clutch stop bolt in place and I was adjusting it for more pedal travel. Now I can get 5000 rpm and pull it out of gear.
Looks like the clutch master I had was too small. Now on to larger brakes.

[Albertan]

I have not updated this for years. I have been driving the car for 4 years. 4500 miles on it. I did put it on a dyno a few years ago. Just lately I've been noticing that the idle is erratic and will eventually stall. It starts right up and drives fine. I did replace the rear resonators with a single muffler with 2 x 3" and out. Made it much quieter. But still not quiet by anyone's definition. I'm going to make an appointment to have the idle checked. I also have a noise when right rear wheel hits a bump. Sounded like in C pillar but I'm going to have a look at sway bar bushings.
Other than that enjoyable driving.

[TipsyMcStagger]

...I also have a noise when right rear wheel hits a bump. Sounded like in C pillar but I'm going to have a look at sway bar bushings...

When was the last time you looked at the upper shock mount? It's not uncommon for those to tear if reinforcement plates haven't been installed.

Hoping it's something simpler like the sway bar bushing

[Albertan]

First thing I ever did on this swap was have all subrame mounts reinforced. I did check them as well. Everything is tight. I have AST shocks and struts. I replaced the rear springs just in case, besides I never really liked the original ones. I did have a Chev Malibu a few years ago. It had a similar noise. Sway bushings all looked fine. The internet said it was sway bar bushings and you know it is never wrong. So I changed them and noise was gone.
So I measured the rear sway bar. Turns out I had just used the original 15mm dia from when it was a 318i. I ordered a new UUC rear sway bar. (That's what I have in front)
I hope that is it. It is getting annoying. Plus side it is always the same so if it was something breaking it would be getting worse.