Well, after buying my first E36 in May 2009 so I could learn about the E36, I have owned 5 of them. I have rebuilt 2 engines completely, M42 and S52, rebuilt suspension on all of them and generally brought them back from the brink of death. I sold 2 and two of my children have 2. Last summer I thought it was time for MY E36. Since we were going on holidays, I took my new truck that I bought with the idea of towing cars. The holiday was to visit 2 daughters in Houston, drive to St. Petersburg Florida and then drive home.
I found a nice rust free 97 318i at a car dealer in Houston where cars go to die. (Bought my 97 M3 auto there as well) The car poured oil out the filter housing, cloth interior in bad shape and headliner drooping. Price was right so I loaded it up on a Uhaul trailer and took it to Florida for a week holiday. Then took it back home to Calgary in 3 days. (3000 miles pulling a car on a trailer. I have the GM 6.2 litre 403 hp 2011 4x4 so I rarely felt it.)
I imported it properly and fixed the oil leak for $2.00 worth of Orings.
My plan: 6.2+ litre alum block with stroker crank etc at least 500hp, T56 trans, M3 suspension (I already have that) I already have a 400HP car, 2006 CTSV and 403hp truck so this car has to be more powerful or why do it. I also want it mostly to be a daily driver and use it for long road trips.
I have ordered a 3.64 LSD differential 210mm ring gear from a E32 so that should take care of the rear. Tomorrow I am welding in rear subframe reinforcements. Pictures are some of the car as if any of you don't know what they look like! I plan on leaving it look as stock outside as possible. No M3 bumpers etc. I will update as things get done. I figure I will spend whatever I have to to make a nice car. I'm at the stage in life where I have a few dollars to spend. For me though, the journey is as important as the finished product and I'm in no hurry.
Last edited by Albertan; 03-02-2012 at 12:43 PM.
Good plan, your car will share the same engine as your truck haha
Why the stroker? you can bolt new heads onto the LS3/L99 and make 500 easily
Since I'll be starting with a bare block, I have to buy a rotating assembly anyway. Why not get a bit of a stroker for just a few dollars more?
Years ago, I bought a iron block 6 litre and 5.3 litre but I decided not to use either of them. Still deciding on exactly what I want to do. Been lurking on LS1tech and seeing what has worked well for others. Also, it has be be bigger than my truck engine!
Slowly working on things. Engine is out and I actually sold it! Changed heater motor, very easy with engine out. Now I have removed drivers window and replacing locks and actuators etc. I have a re key kit to match existing worn lock. Finished with subframe reinforcing and painting. Subframe modified for 210mm rear using Rallyroad adapter. See photos.
Phots do not want to load. I'll try later
Last edited by Albertan; 02-25-2012 at 10:47 PM.
Couple more photos
Been working on the car for a while now. Did all subframe mount reinforcing including trailing arm mounting pocket plates. Installed the Rally Road E32 differential brackets in the subframe and welded in reinforcements on the sub frame. I completely rebuilt the M3 rear suspension all new bushings and ball joints as well as new rear wheel bearings. Also repacked the axles. That is now all installed. I also used AST 4100 coilovers with Vorshlag camber plates for the front.
I have bought the Vorshlag engine and trans mounts as well as headers.
I moved the ABS pump and extended the lines.
Last Thursday, I drove to Montana to pick up the Texas Speed and Performance LS3 418ci long block, Mast oil pan, quicktime scattershield,
intake manifold, and Dforce 18 x 9 and 10 wheels. A custom modified T56 transmission was supposed to be there as well but finally arrived on Friday afternoon. I'm also waiting for the Spec twin disk clutch and flywheel. I'll have to make some more trips.
Today I hosted our local BMW club for a look at my progress. Also while working on this car, in June I picked up an E46 M3 in California so I was working on two cars for a while. I finished repairs on the M3 so now I'm parking it for the winter. Just of interest. The E46 M3 is from California, the Blue 135i I picked up in Virginia Beach at Easter and the E36 M3 is from Houston. West, East and South USA. I'm freezing here in Alberta where it is snowing.
Lots of work left to do but as I mentioned before I'm in no hurry.
I have attached some pictures for more info.
Last edited by Albertan; 10-21-2012 at 02:32 AM.
Slowly working away at this swap. I have an old block in the car right now for fitting the exhaust. Over Christmas I tacked together the exhaust system. I'm using 3" stainless with an X pipe, mufflers and two resonators at the back. I'm hoping to avoid any drone and I want it quiet.
I took it to a local TIG welding specialist. He does very fine work and did a really nice job on my exhaust.
I finished installing the seats and I bought a 3 spoke steering wheel.
I'm now finishing up the engine. I've run into a small problem. The windage tray has to be spaced up for clearance due to the 4" stroke. I have a Mast oil pan and I might have to cut down the windage tray for clearance to the pan.
I'm going to be running CTS-V front accessory drive. It tucks very close to the engine and I will have clearance. I also installed the rad and found out the twin electric fan sytem was going to almost run into the top water pump outlet. I'm having a new aluminum shroud made. I'm also using a late model Corvette water pump. It has the top outlet on the left which will work with the rad I'm using.
I have attached a few more pictures.
Last edited by Albertan; 01-21-2013 at 12:14 AM.
I have all mechanical bits in place and now I'm wiring. I have a Speartech harness so it shouldn't be too big a deal. Maybe a stupid question but where does everyone put the GM PCM? I've searched through lots of builds and no one seems to mention it.
I had planned to put it with the BMW DME but it is looking like both won't fit.
I'd like to use the alternator idiot light. How would I hook that up? I'm assuming that BMW uses the dash wire as an exciter for the alternator?
Last edited by Albertan; 10-06-2013 at 07:28 PM. Reason: added pictures
Unless I'm missing something, I believe the BMW DME is normally removed along with the BMW engine.
Read this regarding the alternator.
Tipsy
Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 10-06-2013 at 07:51 PM.
Tipsy
Now why couldn't I find that. The alternator is exactly as I thought it might/should be.
I just always assumed that the DME has some uses I'm going to have another look. I removed lots of wiring but there still seems to be other features left?
Try using Google to search the forum.
Here's an example.
Tipsy
Tipsy
I've never searched like that before. I've used a general google search but never thought to make it specific. I just used the forum search function with little success.
I've learned something today. Getting old is no fun. Went out to take pictures of some parking lots and found my camera's battery was dead and I had just changed it. My wife asked why didn't I just use my phone......like I said getting old is no fun.
Slowly getting closer to firing it up. Wiring is now all done and tested. Cooling system has been under pressure for a few days with no leaks. Few more minor things
and I should be ready to prelube and start it up.
Awesome build! But will you be able to close the hood with the intake sitting up that high?
Yes, it closes just fine. A bit close for the intake air line. The car has the Vorslag mounts, headers etc. Must be the way the picture was taken as someone else on another forum mentioned the same thing.
Here is picture with the hood closed and headlights installed but not lined up. I have a power steering cooler in the fog light position.
I started it up tonight. I prelubed it first. Checked fuel pressure and that it doesn't leak down. It turned over for maybe 5 seconds and fired up. It stalled a couple of times but started again. About the 4th time it kept running. I warmed it up a bit and shut it down. No leaks. Now that it is sitting on the wheels I find the rears are rubbing a bit on the inside. I'll need a small spacer and then I'll have to pull the rear fender lips a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAdT...ature=youtu.be short video of it idling
Last edited by Albertan; 05-18-2014 at 01:33 AM.
I installed a wideband O2 sensor to monitor AFR. Took it out today to break it in. Got to "normal" on BMW gauge. I have a GM sensor for the ECU and a gauge sensor on lower rad hose. Driving around in town on vacant streets it got to about 200F. As soon as I let it idle, the temp drops when the thermostat closes. I have a large rad and double electric fans controlled by the ECU. Oil pressure is 50 while driving and 23-30 idling hot. (Joe Gibbs 5-30 break in oil) I have a reworked T56 trans with a MGW shifter.
Very short throws and smooth operation.
Here is a short video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJHO...m-upload_owner
Only issue I have is resetting the ABS. I have been searching and I know I read a how to some time ago but can't find it again. Mostly they say to take it in to dealership!
If anyone can provide a link that would be great.
For my ABS I put a resistor in place of the factory actuator for the traction control throttle. Can't remember the ohms but just measure the actuator's resistance. Worked like a charm.
1997 318i
1997 Corvette LS1
4L80E
200 ohms, I did that already. I have been surfing the net for info and found what I was looking for. Jumped the ABS motor relay and turned it on but I still have the lights. Someone said that 4 channel with traction control is pretty integrated with DME which is no longer there. I have to do a bunch of checking to see if it is something in the wiring I extended. It was working before all the surgery. Could even be a wheel sensor so lots to check.
I have it broken it so now I have to get it properly tuned.
I see you are in Calgary as well.
Turns out it was supposed to be 10 ohm resistor. I finally went to look at the package to make sure it was 10 ohms. Turns out it was 0.10 ohms. The sales man grabbed the
wrong package. So I put the original ASC motor back and light is off. Have to fix now that I have the correct resistor. I was getting it tuned and the electric fans wouldn't work. I looked at it and found both 30 amp fuses were just melted into blobs. I figure that the fuses were not properly installed and created enough heat to just melt everything. One of the fuses still had the fusible link intact. I replaced the fuses with 30 amp circuit breakers.
I have been having noisy power steering rack when cold. I am using the GM PS pump and E36 rack. Any solution to this? I'm assuming the rack needs more power that the GM pump puts out?
Your pump is likely dying or you have a lot of air trapped in the system. Make sure youre using the same fluid both the rack, and the pump, are supposed to be using. I just installed a brand new pump, and even mostly low to empty, its fairly quiet. Once full, theres zero noise from the PS system.
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
I have used a GTO, Fbody and a Corvette pumps. In my experience, the quietest one is the Corvette and loudest was the Fbody. This was in conjunction with a hydro boost.
I used a brand new Cadillac CTSV power steering pump and a newly rebuilt E36 rack from rack doctor. Driving straight it is fine just make noise when parking etc. Steering wheel turns fine just the noise. I would think if it is air it should be out by now. I have 150 miles on it.
Should be good before even driving it. What size are your ps lines? Not restrictive right?
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
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