2006 BMW X3 won't start in cold... and other issues

[cbf263]

I have a 2006 BMW X3 that I just recently bought. The dealership went out of business about 2 weeks after I bought it! So far I've had a couple issues and I'm wondering what is causing them, how much it will cost to fix and if it's possible they are all related.

Issue 1: Car doesn't seem to start in cold weather. A couple days ago, it was about 35 degrees out and the car had been parked outside for about 3 days. When I went to start it, it made the sound like it wanted to start and it took about 4 tries until it finally did. Today, it was about 20 degrees out and had been sitting for 1 day. I went to start it and the radio went on when I turned it half way and then nothing, not even a clicking sound, when I tried to start. I turned it back to the off position and when I tried again, nothing... no radio, no clicking, just complete silence. Any ideas?


Issue 2: The clock and mileage keep resetting. Not specific to the weather or certain times. Seems to just happen randomly. It's occurred 3 times in the last 4 months.

Issues 3: The mirror automatically adjusts down when I am in reverse to better see the ground. Most of the time, it does not come back up and I have to manually adjust with the mirror adjustment buttons. Hoping this is a smaller issue...


Thanks!!

[bmwdirtracer]

Issues 1 and 2: Sounds like you need a new battery.

Issue 3: Leave the mirror-adjust switch in the passenger-mirror position, and it will stop adjusting itself downwards.

[cbf263]

Thanks so much for the help! I've read online that it could be the VANOS System, which can be costly. Any idea if that could be the option?

I've tried leaving the switch in the passenger position and then also the drivers side position and it didn't seen to do the trick.

[bmwdirtracer]

The vanos system will have absolutely NOTHING to do with your "no-crank" issue. All Vanos does is adjust valve timing, which comes sometime AFTER the starter is cranking, and the engine running.

[cbf263]

I brought it in to a repair shop and they mentioned that it is probably the battery that needs to be replaced.

Is that normal for a 2006?

They also mentioned that the price for a BMW battery was expensive... around $280. Is that true?

Just spoke to the repair place and they can't figure it out... testing the battery and everything else and seems to be fine.

Mentioned that is could be the computer... awesome... that should should be costly.

Has ANYONE ever had this issue before?

[Crescent]

They should interrogate fault memory with BMW specific diagnostic computer if they have already replaced the battery and that didn't fix the problem. Get some BMW specific fault codes, thats the best place to start. If you can get them from your mechanic post them up with the last 7 numbers of your VIN number.

[bmwdirtracer]

You've got a car which won't even click when you turn key to start, you've got a clock that resets. All of which tells me you have a major disconnect somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. Your battery is six years old, about the full lifetime of any battery - repeat, ANY battery.

Now, you don't have to have a BMW battery, but I'm pretty sure your car's computers need to be told that the car got a new battery, if you want to do it right. But while you could perhaps save yourself a hundred bucks on the battery, the truth is that your car needs about $1500-2000 a year spent on it's maintenance and repair. Furthermore, it needs someone who's familiar with the breed, and equipped with a Professional BMW Scan Tool, to deal with it.

Find that person, whether he's at a dealer or independent BMW shop, to talk to your computers and diagnose your issue. First thing he'll likely want to do is replace the battery.

It's very unlikely you need a computer, and I would avoid any shop that gives this diagnosis without a whole lot more info.

[cbf263]

Thanks for the info. I brought it in to a BMW dealership and just heard back from them today. I left the car with them over the weekend and, of course, they did not experience the same problems. They have also run their "initial" tests and have not been able to find the problem. They did see in what he called the BMW's "black box" that the car recorded a "no start." But, not helpful so far since they can't figure out why.

[Crescent]

Side effects of flatrate . You should ask your BMW dealer for the exact codes that were found in the car. If you get those codes may be we can be of some help or at least we could speculate a bit more accurately.

[bimmer_boyis]

It's very unlikely that there will be any codes stored in an related to this problem aside from window initialization faults. Put a battery in the car and have them do a draw test. Typical draw should be less than 20mA after the TCU is asleep. Check for an intermittent draw if problem persists

[STEALTHYZ4]

cbf263,if you need an indy shop to help you out go here: http://RNBMW.COM located on the northside of Chicago.

[ptarditi]

'06 e83 does not need the battery to be registered. I would replace battery, I have 5 bimmers in the family and am a tech and I use autozone batteries. The only issue is the dealer is going to tell you to not use aftermarket batteries, the only time I buy into that is with the AGM batteries which your car doesn't have. Also if you have any accessories like a satellite receiver it might be causing your radio to stay awake thereny increasing draw. X3's don't seem to have the final stage resistor problems that plagued e39 and e53. Agreed the TCU can keep the car awake.

[White94RX]

Jeez, get a new battery and be done with it.

[cbf263]

Service rep at the BMW dealer said they didn't have any fault codes and still haven't been able to reproduce the problem. Also mentioned they did a draw test and didn't find any issues.

I'd rather not just buy a new battery and hope for the best. I just bought this car and think it's important to find the root of the issue so I know what I'm in for.

I have to say too, the service reps are kind of not great at the BMW Fields location in Northfield, IL. The one I talked to today seemed annoyed by me because it wasn't his case. I asked all good questions and he seemed even more annoyed that he had to keep relaying to the technician. He couldn't even tell me what comes next until I just suggested that I leave it there a couple more days and they continue to try and reproduce.

So frustrating! Does anyone know if there are no fault codes and if all the tests come back clean if there could be some other issue they just can't detect?

cbf263,if you need an indy shop to help you out go here: http://RNBMW.COM located on the northside of Chicago.

Thanks for the recommendation. It's nice to see a service shop with high review ratings for once. Do they charge to do a diagnostic test? If I bring it somewhere else this will have been the 3rd place and I can't keep spending money for places to tell me nothing is wrong...

[dworthy]

I had seen this problem in a E9x, double check the pos bus bar to make sure all the connections are tight.

BTW, the batteries in both my cars are 7 years old. I plan on replacing them when they turn 8, so I would stick with the BMW batteries.

[ptarditi]

You are getting free advice from at least three level one technicians who suggest replacing the battery. I know we test all battery complaints with a mid-tronics tester for cold cranking amps and if a six year old battery gives us a "good battery... recharge" we recommend replacing the battery. Did you come on to the forum for advice or just to argue? There are no codes, there is no draw!

[cbf263]

You are getting free advice from at least three level one technicians who suggest replacing the battery. I know we test all battery complaints with a mid-tronics tester for cold cranking amps and if a six year old battery gives us a "good battery... recharge" we recommend replacing the battery. Did you come on to the forum for advice or just to argue? There are no codes, there is no draw!

Actually I have already asked the dealer for a quote to replace the battery. Not sure what your comment is directed at. I am certainly not hear to argue. If you read my threads above you will see that I am simply frustrated since I just bought this car and the dealership has since closed. Seems like an unnecessary comment.

Unlike a lot of people, I like to be my own advocate and gather as much information and do as much research as I can with issues I am unfamiliar with. I very much appreciate all of the advice and information given to me so far.

[bmwdirtracer]

I'm going to agree, once again, that the place to start on this car is replacing the battery. A six year old battery is the big question mark hanging over this diagnosis, and would be the first step, to any good pro tech. It's the crucial part here, has a known life-span which you're at the end of, and it can cause your issues while still passing tests/

Certainly, you could remove, clean, and rebolt every main connection, as I described above, or test for voltage drops and resistance with a multimeter. But you'd still need a battery, because it's just plain due. And replacing that worn-out item might likely solve all those fees you've been paying for diagnostics. At the very least, it will take the very most likely item out of the diagnostic regimen, and allow diagnostics to proceed. I personally wouldn't want to spend a bunch of the customer's labor time searching for a different answer when there was a huge question mark hanging over my explorations.

I'm not a "parts-thrower", and neither are the other pros above, but the percentages are in your favor if you first replace the part that needs replacing anyway.

[cbf263]

Thanks everyone for the advice and suggestions! I will have the battery replaced and start from there. I'll keep you posted!

[willy5]

The car doesn't start at all and noticed that the ceiling lights and dashboard light start to dim everytime I crank my car. I know its a battery issues, so I replaced it with walmart battery specific for my bmw. After 3 months I have the same problem, the car does't start in one click in cold weather and it keeps resetting my clock. it goes about 4 to 5 times before starting. When it is in hot weather like 10 degrees above, it starts in one click. I just wondering if it is a battery problem again? Since it is a new battery and from my experience, I don't think it is a battery issue because the lights are all bright when I crank the car and as I said, it starts one click in hot weather. I never forget my lights on. Any help here? Thanks.

[dworthy]

The car doesn't start at all and noticed that the ceiling lights and dashboard light start to dim everytime I crank my car. I know its a battery issues, so I replaced it with walmart battery specific for my bmw. After 3 months I have the same problem, the car does't start in one click in cold weather and it keeps resetting my clock. it goes about 4 to 5 times before starting. When it is in hot weather like 10 degrees above, it starts in one click. I just wondering if it is a battery problem again? Since it is a new battery and from my experience, I don't think it is a battery issue because the lights are all bright when I crank the car and as I said, it starts one click in hot weather. I never forget my lights on. Any help here? Thanks.

Well you already answered you own question: I replaced it with walmart battery specific for my bmw

I, for one, would never put a battery from wally-world in any of my BMW's. And yes it is the battery, pony up the extra 150 bucks and get a quality battery from BMW, or at least an exide battery from Napa or similar store.

[MikeD1978]

Well, I searched for a helpful answer. What do I find? People giving only the obvious answer and ignoring the stated issue because they don't have a clue themselves.

I have a 2006 BMW 330i. Bought in '09. The first winter I had this problem. It woukdn't start when it got around 7 degrees or below. It would start getting weaker crank around 20 degrees... It wasn't much of a problem since it doesn't get too cold here. Next winter, same thing. In 2011 I let a friend borrow the car. They left the lights on which I didn't realize at the time... I thought the battery finally went and replaced it with a new BMW a battery. The next winter, same thing. In fact I'm sitting it my car right now and it won't start... If it warms up about 10 degrees it will...

So... Does anyone know what the REAL problem is??? Because it's not the battery...

[dworthy]

You should have started your own thread, and not dig up an old one for your issue.

A dead cell exhibits the problem you are having, if a battery is replaced under warranty, they put a non glass matt type in. Also if a non dealership installed that battery, I am willing to bet that the ECU wasn't reset for the new battery.

[bmwdirtracer]

Well, I searched for a helpful answer. What do I find? People giving only the obvious answer and ignoring the stated issue because they don't have a clue themselves.

I have a 2006 BMW 330i. Bought in '09. The first winter I had this problem. It woukdn't start when it got around 7 degrees or below. It would start getting weaker crank around 20 degrees... It wasn't much of a problem since it doesn't get too cold here. Next winter, same thing. In 2011 I let a friend borrow the car. They left the lights on which I didn't realize at the time... I thought the battery finally went and replaced it with a new BMW a battery. The next winter, same thing. In fact I'm sitting it my car right now and it won't start... If it warms up about 10 degrees it will...

So... Does anyone know what the REAL problem is??? Because it's not the battery...

Well, that's a really grand way to write your first post on the forum; saying that SIX MASTER TECHNICIANS "don't have a clue".

Just because your battery is a year old doesn't mean that it is good, and doesn't mean that it's getting and holding a charge. It might have a dead cell, you might have parasitic draw, or you might have a poor connection at a major hot or ground. But if the cranking gets weaker as the weather gets cold, the problem absolutely IS the battery, or one of its major connections.

[DJordan225]

Well, I searched for a helpful answer. What do I find? People giving only the obvious answer and ignoring the stated issue because they don't have a clue themselves.

I have a 2006 BMW 330i. Bought in '09. The first winter I had this problem. It woukdn't start when it got around 7 degrees or below. It would start getting weaker crank around 20 degrees... It wasn't much of a problem since it doesn't get too cold here. Next winter, same thing. In 2011 I let a friend borrow the car. They left the lights on which I didn't realize at the time... I thought the battery finally went and replaced it with a new BMW a battery. The next winter, same thing. In fact I'm sitting it my car right now and it won't start... If it warms up about 10 degrees it will...

So... Does anyone know what the REAL problem is??? Because it's not the battery...

So I went through this same issue...I have a 2007 BMW X5 and it didn’t start when cold either and never threw any engine codes...so I bought a battery ( like everyone suggested) didn’t work so the next step was my fuel pump and I bought a new one. (Also like a mechanic suggested) well $1500 later it still didn’t work...guess what I found out on my own? (because I was also looking to ge rid of this piece of shit) apparently the “fuel pump relay” is a fuse that in the rear passenger side quarter panel and there’s nothing protecting it from the cold weather aside from the metal from the outside quarter panel (so no insulation to keep it warm whatsoever) anyway a new one cost 20 bucks and it solved my pstarting problems immediately...........for a while. Apparently there is no way to stop these things from going bad quick. So what I’ve done it started taking it out and bring it inside the house every night and keep it in a warm dry place...which is totally ridiculous. Anywho sorry to be so long winded but that’s been my ordeal with my BMW X5