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Thread: m62tu belt replace, reinstall, or retighten

  1. #1
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    m62tu belt replace, reinstall, or retighten

    all of the pictures are of my m62tu. your car may be slightly different.

    the belt tensioning systems on these cars are very easy to use and set if only you know how to operate them correctly.

    1. the first thing we do is draw out the path of the belt and the location of all the pulleys so that we know if we put it back together correctly or not.

    this is the main belt with the correct routing:


    here is my map that i drew:


    here is the a/c belt correctly routed:




    2. the next step is to loosen the belts. you need to locate the tensioner and the bolts that hold it on.
    this is the a/c tensioner


    this is the main belt tensioner:




    to loosen the tensioning device you need to loosen two bolts the first is the bolt in the slotted area. on the main belt tensioner it will be a 13mm and on the a/c bet tensioner it will be 10mm.

    the second bolt that needs to be loosened is the pivot bolt. the pivot bolt will be a 13mm on either tensioner. the bolt head is the smaller bolt resting on a larger nut that is part of the tensioner itself.








    now that the tensioners are loose the belt will just slide right off.

    3. before reinstalling the belt wipe all the pulley contact surfaces to make sure they are free of grease from your hands. you should also go inside and degrime your hands before touching the belt. how mad would you be if the belt slipped or squeeled because you got it contaminated with oil?

    refer to you drawing and replace the belt.

    tip: the smooth pulleys only ever touch the flat side of the belt and the grooved pulleys only ever touch the grooved side. if you have grooves touching flat anywhere you did the routing wrong.

    once the belt is on try wiggley the pulleys a little bit to make sure the belt is seated in the grooves and not crossthreaded anywhere.

    tip: the a/c goes to the back so make sure you put that one on first.

    4. to tension the belt correctly your will need to torque the tensioner around until the bolt in the slot is maxed and cant go anyfurther because there is no slot left.

    i will start with the a/c pulley. this one is a little tricky because is has a second pivot point and tends to flip inside out when you are trying to get positioned.

    what you will do is put a 17mm socket on the large pivoting nut and turn the entire tensioner by turning the socket until the 10mm is maxed out in the slot. while holding tight use a 10mm box wrench in your other hand to tightened the bolt in the slot. make sure it is tight enough that when you let go of the ratchet the slot doesnt slide then tighten the 13mm pivot bolt where your 17mm was a moment ago.




    on the main belt things are pretty much the same except that its upside down and doesnt have the second pivot popping out on you.

    note that in this pic of the main belt tensioner i provided leverage with the 17 wrench and not the ratchet.

    i used the 13mm ratchet to tighten the bolt in the slot. on this tensioner there is very little slot so you dont need to turn the unit that far until the slot is maxed out and properly tensioned.

    at this point you are finished. check the belts one more time so see if anything looks twisted or out of place.

    check both tensioners to see if there are any other loose bolts or nuts that could be tightened to help keep the tensioner from working the slot loose.

    on mine i had to also tighten these although i dont remember loosening them. they will help keep the pivot locked in place so it doesnt loosen:





    Last edited by topaz540i; 09-02-2012 at 09:14 PM.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  2. #2
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    You're on a roll!

  3. #3
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    so many pics so little time. these are the pics of my child that i keep in my wallet.

  4. #4
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    does anyone know if all bmws or all e39s have this style tensioner?
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    does anyone know if all bmws or all e39s have this style tensioner?
    Yo tengo mechanical tensioners...for the A/C and for the main up by the Alternator.
    "I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
    ~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread

  6. #6
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    aye cabron.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  7. #7
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    btw i think you said the pulley bolt size was T45 but i think thats incorrect. T45 does kinda work but it has abit of play and i actually damaged one of the bolts that way. it should be a T50.
    2001 540i 6speed metallic silver

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    does anyone know if all bmws or all e39s have this style tensioner?

    those tensioners look way different than mine...I have an e39, 2000 528i 5spd.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by mifesto View Post
    btw i think you said the pulley bolt size was T45 but i think thats incorrect. T45 does kinda work but it has abit of play and i actually damaged one of the bolts that way. it should be a T50.
    where did i mention torx sizes? im trying to find it to correct it but everything here is hex head.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    where did i mention torx sizes? im trying to find it to correct it but everything here is hex head.
    I read his comment about the torx and I said the same thing! When did he ever mention a torx size???? You didn't obviously and he must be smoking something. My 2002 540 looks exactly as yours and you did a fine job with this. Very clear and detailed. Thanks for taking the time.
    Old, contrary, and out-of-touch,
    but still learning sumpin' every day
    NOTORIOUSLY long-winded :-(

  11. #11
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    Maybe it was in the lower timing case removal i wrote up. It had a link at the end to this page.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  12. #12
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    Nice write up, I'll be getting at my alternator soon so this definitely explains all the ins and outs with the belt removal and re-tension.
    ______________________________________
    2002 540i Sport Touring Toledo Blue Metallic

  13. #13
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    needed this

    thanks

  14. #14
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    np. i had the pictures anyway for my own use so i just posted it all together.
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post
    np. i had the pictures anyway for my own use so i just posted it all together.

    Tensioning style is completely different from 6cyl anf 4cl bmes I know

  16. #16
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    Nice write up, Topaz.

  17. #17
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    I understand what to do but how do i get to the starting point to even gain access to the belt? What things do i need to remove to be able to do maintenance?


    Thanks in advance,
    Jameson

  18. #18
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    basically just the fan. you will need the fan clutch tools to remove it. It is a 32mm? giant flat wrench and tool to hold the clutch from spinning while you loosen it.

    i recommend the ktc tools over the flimsy baum brand
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Fan-Clut...a5b4bf&vxp=mtr

    actually i take that back. YOu only need to remove the fan to do the main belt.


    the a/c belt is accessed from underneath the car. Jack it up and remove the cover and you will see it on the passenger side. i dont believe anything has to be removed for access other than the cover
    Last edited by topaz540i; 09-02-2012 at 05:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  19. #19
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    I just used a crescent (adjustable) wrench and a couple quick, sharp blows with a hammer to break the clutch fan nut loose, clock-wise (left hand threads), it's not torqued on there very tight. No specials tools needed...
    BMWCCA #164901
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  20. #20
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    why do people take off the fan to replace the belt? Its tight, but pass the belt around the fan.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TriniSpeC View Post
    why do people take off the fan to replace the belt? Its tight, but pass the belt around the fan.

    I agree. However it is so smoooooooth with the fan off/ I did it twice before without taking the fan off.

  22. #22
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    Thanks guys, i'll try and get this done this or next weekend!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by topaz540i View Post

    the a/c belt is accessed from underneath the car. Jack it up and remove the cover and you will see it on the passenger side. i dont believe anything has to be removed for access other than the cover
    The A/C belt is BEHIND the serp belt.... it cannot be replaced without first removing the main belt. (Unless I am crazy).

  24. #24
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    yea your right. I was doing both at the same time so i didnt have that issue. And as to the fan-its so easy to take off so why not?
    ~2001 540i/6speed~
    Schmiedman M5 headers, SPEC stage2+ kevlar clutch, JBR 11lb lightweight flywheel, ESS Tuning m60 manifold software tune, 3" SS freeflow OBX catback, afe cold air intake, m60 intake manifold, Cdv delete, powerflex urethane sway bar bushings, M5 rear sway bar ,Autozone replacement driver side blinker light bulb, 545 short shifter zhp weighted, "dsc off" sticker, m5 3.15 lsd differential, m5 chassis rods, akebono ceramic pads, G2 caliper epoxy, ecs braided lines, BC-Racing br-plus series w/swift springs 8/6~
    On the night that I go back in time, you will be shot by terrorists. Please take whatever precautions are necessary to prevent this terrible disaster.

  25. #25
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    Taking the fan off makes it much easier and possible for me to get my ratchets in there to get to the main belt tensioner bolts.
    First time doing it and used a 1-1/4" wrench and a small sledge hammer. Came off after a few hits. So no need to purchase the fan clutch tools.

    Everything was going so smoothly until I overtightened the 10mm bolt on the AC belt tensioner and snapped the head off. Dammit!

    So my question is will the 13mm bolt suffice to hold the torqued tensioner in place without the 10mm bolt?

    Edit - anyways, was able to pull the broken bolt out using one of those screw extractor left hand bits (irwin hanson ex-2) with a right angle drill.

    Last edited by yersole; 11-22-2012 at 11:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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