Rod bearing failure on S54 Coupes?

[dave is cool]

Hey all, were there any documented failures of the S54 motor in any 2001-2002 M Coupes? Or was the rod bearing failure strictly a problem on the S54 M3?

[Randy Forbes]

I KNOW there were failures in 01/02 ///M Rdstrs; can name a few off the top of my head. I've also seen plenty-plenty scary looking bearings on cars I've done the M3 recall kits on.

I'd post pictures, but Sue's dipping out the chili I made this afternoon...

[mjbens01]

Randy's the expert here, but mine failed at 52k. Absolutely no warning until the engine knocking started. Not good.

[dave is cool]

The motors that had this problem were on the production line from November 2001 to January 2002, correct? The car I'm looking at is about to hit 90k miles. If it hasn't had any problems already, is there still a big risk of the engine failing? If the motor was built outside of the timeframe mentioned above, is the risk just not there?

A mechanic I know is going to try and go take a look at it this week. Other than the subframe issue, is there anything else I should specifically ask him to pay attention to on this vehicle?

[Randy Forbes]

There have been bad engines before/after those dates, those were just the known dates that BMW hung their hat on. The current/final bearing recall kit wasn't developed until December 2003.

[rboehl]

I just bought a 2002 M roadster that had the bearing problem and engine replaced at 46k miles. The build date on it was 12-11-2001. The previous owner said it just started knocking loudly with normal driving. He was lucky he had an extended warranty still in place at the time as the bill for the replacement was $23k but that also included a clutch and flywheel replacement.

[Mr Bingley]

If I was looking to by a 90K S54, I would simply factor into my budget the cost of bearing replacement (assuming it's not knocking at the moment), and have the bearings replaced immediately for peace of mind. You can always send the oil out to be analyzed to be absolutely sure of the current bearing condition before purchasing (if there is time).

[mpire]

I am at the point where I send a sample from every oil change to blackstone.

So far so good.

More often oil changes make a big difference in the readings, for sure, but it could be just washing away the build up so its not as noticeable.

[Mystikal]

Anecdotal data is mostly useless, but: April 2001 and 217k mi with original bearings here.

[Racer MXM]

Anecdotal data is mostly useless, but: April 2001 and 217k mi with original bearings here.

Way to go Mystikal...I am at 126k and have decided that at this point I will wait to do it when it goes (if it goes) simply because at this mileage some other things would most likely need to be done as well (polish & port,etc).

So when and if it hits I will do a full engine re-build (not for $23k as will not be doing it at a dealer). Call me crazy, but I think I will take my chances...I have always been a gambling man...

Also, I bought it with 120k in 2008 (it was a Texas car) so chances are just as good that it was done by the 4 previous owners before me than it is that they will go out...but if someone chooses to do it, I can't blame them as piece of mind is also important...

[PbFut]

Way to go Mystikal...I am at 126k and have decided that at this point I will wait to do it when it goes (if it goes) simply because at this mileage some other things would most likely need to be done as well (polish & port,etc).

So when and if it hits I will do a full engine re-build (not for $23k as will not be doing it at a dealer). Call me crazy, but I think I will take my chances...I have always been a gambling man...

Also, I bought it with 120k in 2008 (it was a Texas car) so chances are just as good that it was done by the 4 previous owners before me than it is that they will go out...but if someone chooses to do it, I can't blame them as piece of mind is also important...

Replace before, 800 bucks. Repace after the knock starts, 8000 bucks. Well maybe not 8000 but certainly much much more than 800. If I were buying an S54 now, it would be the first thing done. You do not know how the previous owners drove the car.

[rboehl]

The 23k was for an engine replacement and not to do the bearings. The clutch and flywheel was replaced becuase the engine was out. I agree the price is steep and I wouldn`t have done that but like I said it was covered and so I am glad to have another engine that has only 13k miles on it as of now. It was one of the reasons that I bought it. The others were the price and the extra goodies that was recently installed i.e. uuc shift kit w/dssr, new brakes all around, new m mats, new tires and wheels, stong strut front and rear, etc. Saved me from doing it. LOL

[dave is cool]

My mechanic is going to take a look at it this weekend.

Anyone have a link to where I can purchase new rod bearings in case we take a look at this car and actually pick it up. Thanks.

Also, in reference to the subframe failure, what kind of "symptoms" would I hear or feel when driving the car if there is, in fact, a problem with the rear subframe?

[PbFut]

My mechanic is going to take a look at it this weekend.

Anyone have a link to where I can purchase new rod bearings in case we take a look at this car and actually pick it up. Thanks.

Also, in reference to the subframe failure, what kind of "symptoms" would I hear or feel when driving the car if there is, in fact, a problem with the rear subframe?

RandyF is the pro on this subject. Maybe he will add. In general, you don't notice much of anything at the start. You will begin to develop cracks at the diff mount flange or the rear pan will start to pop the spot welds at the seams. Look closely at those areas. Lots of pictures on the subject. The repair is well documented. If the car is damaged, may be a good point to work the price. If the damage is allowed to progress, you will hear popping or creaking upon quick changes in torque stress in the rear.

[dave is cool]

Checked the car out. Over any sort of bumps, there was a loud clunking sound, I think coming from the rear. Also, EML light came on around 45 mph. Turned car off, waited 5 mins, then drove it again, taking it up to 100, and the EML light never came back on. Decided not to get it due to both of these problems.

[Mystikal]

...then drove it again, taking it up to 100...

But wasn't that fun?! Good luck with your search for another one.

[Mr Bingley]

What were they asking for it out of curiosity?

[Randy Forbes]

"Loud clunking" could've been as simple as a $100 worth of rear upper shock mounts...

[mpire]

"Loud clunking" could've been as simple as a $100 worth of rear upper shock mounts...

Or the bolts holding the trailing arms to the shocks were loose.