E46 5th gear automatic transmission trouble

[rspatrick]

I’m a new member to this web forum though I have been referring to it for a couple of years for DIY fixes.* *I have a 2004 E46 325ci Convertible and am currently having trouble with my automatic transmission.

I have the transmission slip when putting the car in drive after the car has sat a while although this has been better as of late.* I have read about this problem in some of this website’s threads and it isn’t my main concern. **I added this in case my other problem is related…

*Just recently my car has been having problems while in 5th gear.* Here are the symptoms:

1)***** If I am going over 90km/hour and hit the gas light to moderately the rpms go up very briefly and then go down to about 2200rpm and the acceleration is very slow!* If I press the gas pedal harder the car downshifts to 4th and acts as it should.
2)***** However, if I am going less than 90km/hour and in 5th gear and press on the gas the rpms go up to about 2800 and the car accelerates properly.
3)***** And, if I am steadily accelerating through 4th and into 5th the car upshifts properly and performs as expected.*

There are no lights on the dash indicating any problems. *I did have the transmission fluid changed about eight months ago but this problem has surfaced much more recently than that.* The fluid change did not impact the slip I described earlier when putting the car in drive.

I am going to take it in the shop and get the codes read soon but I want to know if anyone has had a similar issue and what their solution was so I can better prepare myself.* Or even better, if there is a reasonable DIY fix I can try.

Thanks in advance

[chefsboss]

MMm... sorry for your woes mate.
I would first rule out the simple things. , now you say you had the fluid serviced recently, but yoiu need to check into exactly what kind of fluid they used, as these are very tempermental. Do a search got BMW e46 trans fluid. If they mixed it, you need to get that stuff out, and start again, hopefully it is not too late.

The cold start symptoms you describe could be a matter of a low fluid level..

Just for kicks to Google "e46 OBS hidden codes" and punch up the voltage test on your dash, leave the voltage display on and see what happens at the time the symptoms start. You may get lucky and have a slipping alternator or other voltage related issue which will cause strange things to happen. (the tranny computer hates voltage spikes).. However that is not likely in this case. (usually you get lights and fail safe mode, and not just in 5th)

There is a common problem involving the torque convertor seal and the front pump. on these, But you will usually get check engine lights and codes. (after 2 times, the CE light will come on) occasionally even failsafe mode.

Assuming we are talking about the ZF 5hp19 transmission, 5th gear is the OD (meaning the 4th gear ratio is 1:1)
or in other words, when it goes into 5th, the TC is actually spinning faster than the flywheel. and that only occurs in 5th., up to then the ratios are always opposite... so a torque converter problem is a very good suspect.
In addition, the symptoms happen after it has been sitting a while with the slipping, and this could be indicative of a leaking TC seal problem, the fluid slowly drains back out of the TC, where with a properly functioning seal, it stays there. and doesn't leak back into the pan.



Depending on mileage, it may be time to consider a rebuild, but, from experience here, only take it to someone reputable, (even though every shop will claim they have experience with those) Any money spent on a "good deal" will cost you more later. (I learned the hard, expensive way... save yourself@!)

And the best advice.... read everything you possibly can about the ZF5hp19, and then ask some pointed questions before deciding on who to do the work. You will be absolutely amazed how much BS you get from trans shops.
Heres some good info...
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/arc.../t-409201.html

And, if you need anything about this tranny, from the valve body troubleshooting guide to the full rebuild manual, PM me...
Methinks I might make a "What to know" thread about these someday.

Good luck!

P.S. Try and survive all the "do the swap"! and "missing a pedal" replies headed your way. E46s are getting less expensive till you need tranny work.

[ezbmr]

I’m a new member to this web forum though I have been referring to it for a couple of years for DIY fixes.* *I have a 2004 E46 325ci Convertible and am currently having trouble with my automatic transmission.

I have the transmission slip when putting the car in drive after the car has sat a while although this has been better as of late.* I have read about this problem in some of this website’s threads and it isn’t my main concern. **I added this in case my other problem is related…

*Just recently my car has been having problems while in 5th gear.* Here are the symptoms:

1)***** If I am going over 90km/hour and hit the gas light to moderately the rpms go up very briefly and then go down to about 2200rpm and the acceleration is very slow!* If I press the gas pedal harder the car downshifts to 4th and acts as it should.
2)***** However, if I am going less than 90km/hour and in 5th gear and press on the gas the rpms go up to about 2800 and the car accelerates properly.
3)***** And, if I am steadily accelerating through 4th and into 5th the car upshifts properly and performs as expected.*

There are no lights on the dash indicating any problems. *I did have the transmission fluid changed about eight months ago but this problem has surfaced much more recently than that.* The fluid change did not impact the slip I described earlier when putting the car in drive.

I am going to take it in the shop and get the codes read soon but I want to know if anyone has had a similar issue and what their solution was so I can better prepare myself.* Or even better, if there is a reasonable DIY fix I can try.

Thanks in advance

How many miles are on it? That somewhat sounds like you might need to replace your vanos seals, which depending on your skill, will be $120 a lot of people complain about lag in the 2000-2500 or so rpm level and are attributed to vanos seals. Or you can do what I might do, which is have a dr vanos installed for $400 not including the vanos which is $250. You might also need a tc

[rspatrick]

Thanks guys for taking the time to share your thoughts. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow so I'll ask them to check the fluid levels in the tranny. I'll also ask them about what kind of fluid they put in there too. I'm thinking that I have the GM and not the ZF tranny since I did a vehicle part search with my serial number. That'll be another question for the mechanic.

I tried the instructions for the OBS hidden codes and got to the point where I could sellect option 19 and saw the "off" flashing but couldn't get past that point with those instructions. I must be doing something incorrectly. Nonetheless an interesting exercise and a good read about all the hidden features the 3 series has.

The slipping occurs when going from reverse to first after the car has sat a while. I read somewhere that the dealer has a fix that involves ??reprogramming the car so that it builds up more pressure in the tranny to eliminate the slipping?? I'm not sure on the success rate of that "repair".

However the problem in 5th gear I could hardly call slipping as the car seems locked in at 2200 rpm and very very sluggish when pushing the accelerator. I was playing around again last night and this problem occurs exactly at 95km/hour everytime. If I am below that and press on the gas after gliding then the rpms jump to about 2800. If I am going anything over 95km/hour after coasting and press on the gas light to moderately then it bumps up about 100rpm and quickly drops to 2200rpm where the forementioned symptoms occur. One other little thing I noticed last night was if I hit the gas suddenly (while over 95) but not enough to cause the tranny to downshift then their isn't a problem! All of this makes me think this is an electronic issue but I'm definately no expert in this field.

EZBMR -> Right now the car is at 118,000km (approximately 73,000miles). I'm also not sure I would characterize this problem as a lag since the issue isn't temporary. The engine nearly has no power in 5th no matter how far I press the pedal down (until the tranny downshifts) and is independent of time. I'll just mention again that I have power in 5th if I've been accelerating in 4th and the tranny then shifts to 5th while I continue to accelerate. Does this still sound like it could be the vanos seals?

Thanks again

[Davidlopez69]

Hi guys, I have been an e46 fanatic for 3 years however I'm new to this forum! I have a 2001 Bmw 330i automatic ZF transmission and I'm have identical symptoms as to the ones you described above! I want to know what your problem turned out to be. Was it the torque converter?

[MarcoZandrini]

Patrick, once you see test #19 showing "off" you need to press the stalk immediately. The onboard computer (obc) will cycle back to test #0.

[Dave1027]

OP was a hit and run from 5 years ago.

[1slo1]

The delayed shifting into drive is possibly a hydraulic pressure issue which could be corrected through re-flashing the transmission control. If so, BMW should have a technical bulletin to that effect. The fact that the problem occurs at cold temperatures leads me to suspect a transmission temperature sensor problem. The transmission control computer should increase line pressure when fluid is cold to prevent delayed engagement because of the increased viscosity and therefore decreased flow rate of the cold ATF and conversely, should decrease pressure to prevent harsh engagement when the ATF is thinned when hot. Another possible cause is hydraulic lip seals on the clutch packs tend to harden and wear with age and cold, allowing the ATF to partially bypass the seal when cold causing the delay. Delayed engagement when shifting from Reverse to Drive can not be a converter drain-back problem because the converter is already full in order to engage reverse. Just a few possibilities. Your best bet is a technical service bulletin from BMW which addresses this problem. If no such bulletin exists, these ideas might be of some assistance.

[1slo1]

The delayed shifting into drive is possibly a hydraulic pressure issue which could be corrected through re-flashing the transmission control. If so, BMW should have a technical bulletin to that effect. The fact that the problem occurs at cold temperatures leads me to suspect a transmission temperature sensor problem. The transmission control computer should increase line pressure when fluid is cold to prevent delayed engagement because of the increased viscosity and therefore decreased flow rate of the cold ATF and conversely, should decrease pressure to prevent harsh engagement when the ATF is thinned when hot. Another possible cause is hydraulic lip seals on the clutch packs tend to harden and wear with age and cold, allowing the ATF to partially bypass the seal when cold causing the delay. Delayed engagement when shifting from Reverse to Drive can not be a converter drain-back problem because the converter is already full in order to engage reverse. Just a few possibilities. Your best bet is a technical service bulletin from BMW which addresses this problem. If no such bulletin exists, these ideas might be of some assistance.[/QUOTE]

As for the sluggish performance overdrive/5th gear: Overdrive means the transmission output shaft is turning faster than the input shaft, an input to output gear ratio of less than 1:1. This allows the engine to turn at lower RPMs at highway speeds for better fuel economy. The torque converter is a hydraulic coupling between the engine crankshaft and the input shaft of the automatic transmission. When the vehicle is stopped there is slippage at this coupling that allows the engine to continue to run without disengaging a clutch, as on a manual transmission. During high slippage under heavy engine load the engine RPM increases which allows the engine to produce more horsepower and torque. Additionally, under heavy engine load and torque converter slippage there can be a hydraulic torque multiplication on the order of 1.6:1 to over 2:1. Yes that means if the engine is producing 200 lbs.- ft. of torque at wide open throttle at zero MPH "stall speed" the torque at the transmission input shaft with a a 2:1 torque multiplication will be 400 Lbs.- Ft. On older car this slippage continued at all vehicle speeds which resulted in wasted energy and poor fuel economy but allowed 2 speed automatic transmissions of the 1960s such as GM's Power glide to have acceptable performance, if poor fuel economy. Enter the torque converter clutch, TCC. Early TCC eliminated converter slip when applied in top gear for improved highway fuel economy. Later developments in TCC has allowed it to be fully or partially applied in the lower gears as well as the higher gears. this allows just enough TCC application, according to throttle position, vehicle speed, gear ratio and engine load, to lessen slip to maximize fuel economy and allow just enough slip to give good performance when needed. The torque converter shell or housing is bolted to the engine's flywheel/flexplate and can never turn faster than the engine.

[imadude85]

My 2002 320i is doing the same thing. I don't think its gearbox problem though. Feeling sluggish at 2k rpm could mean the engine is loosing power at that rpm.

[Mohlalefi]

2001 BMW 320i E46 is not moving R or D


The car was driving well up until i noticed...
1. Parking at a stip parking, when you select gear D or R there is a sound from rear wheels or the deaf


2. When driving and still changing the wheels would be moving like you stuck in the mud, eventually delay to chance other gears


3. I just parked the car, it starts and idle very well but when selecting gear R or D it looks or feels like it can move but never moves, only rev up to 2000 or 3000 with no move




What can be the problem?

[Eaglesail]

Hmmm...I do not understand your descriptions. "changing the wheels would be moving like you stuck in the mud"... "when you select gear D or R there is a sound from rear wheels or the deaf" ...."selecting gear R or D it looks or feels like it can move but never moves, only rev up to 2000 or 3000 with no move"..................

And there isn't a way to pull a (non-existent) dipstick to determine ATF level...is there?

Is there a growing puddle of oil on the tarmac where you park your car regularly? ....It sounds like a transmission starved of hydrolics such as ATF!

[Dave1027]

And there isn't a way to pull a (non-existent) dipstick to determine ATF level...is there?

No dipstick. To check the level you get the car on jackstands or a lift. Start engine and go through the gears. With the engine still running and in park, remove the fill plug on the side of the transmission and add ATF till it comes out the fill hole.

[Eaglesail]

Yes, I am aware of this procedure, and with my Audi Quattro...very similar if not the same with the BMW. Automatic transmissions in general, make a sound similar to a person swimming when their head begins to be overtaken and starved for air! This has happened to ME...once in my life...In this case, a transmission, it sounds like it is starved for ATF!....I think when it comes to sophisticated modern day multi-speed transmission, be it ZF, or GM, and given the poster his concern, I think RSPatrick would be better served if he has professional people examine his issue.