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Thread: *DIY How to replace Subframe bushing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    *DIY How to replace Subframe bushing

    Hi, I was asked to do this, so I thought I would post here before putting it in the fix it section.


    Tools needed

    1. 22mm socket (with socket wrench)
    2. 13 mm socket
    3. Floor jack
    4. 2 jack stands
    5. boards or other items to make jacks higher
    6. Sawzal and medium length good blade 9should have more then 1
    7. small floor jack
    8. 2 lengths of 3 feet long chain (size used for trailer hitches)
    9. The little links for chains you can unscrew and take off.
    10. drill with 1/2 inch hole maker (can not think of name)

    11. good cold rolled chisel
    12. hammer (heavier the better, as long as you can use it)
    13. Goggles and mouth cover for when drilling and cutting
    14. big pliers
    15. dish soap
    16. fine sand paper




    1st step: put bushings in a freezer one week before job.

    2nd step: remove the plate below the bushing, it has 1 22mm and 2 13mm nuts holding it on.

    3rd step: remove the rear seat. You will see the seat belt receptors on the sides next to the door. Each is held on by a 17mm, below that under the foam is a spot of black stuff, you have to remove that it get to the bolt holding the subframe. You need to remove this bolt. I was able to put a wooden board under the bottom of the bolt and whack it with a hammer and it came out. If this does not work I would suggest spraying it with a lot of anti-seize stuff, if that does not help you can try beating on it with a bigger hammer or using heat from a torch.

    4th step : jack the car up to a height where you can get the sawzal up into the subframe bushing hole. Place the jack stands under the car so that they are not in your way.

    5th step: using the sawzal and the drill to remove the center metal piece that the bolt goes through, if you are lucky it will just fall out like mine did.

    5th step: You need to remove the 2 metal pieces on the sides of the bushing. I did this with the drill after I broke my blade on the sawzal. I use the big pliers to pull them out the rest of the way.

    7th step: This is where you use the chisel to cut a line up the side of the metal sheath in the bushing. You can also do this with the sawzal. Once you have cut it all the way, you want to use the chisel to knock the bushing in so that it will loosen and can be removed. Then clean the hole out to where it is nice and smooth. I used 150 grain sand paper.

    8th step: Now you have the bushing out. So get your cold bushing out of the freezer. You can also lower you car to about 2 or 3 inches higher then normal.

    9th step. take the 2 chains and wrap then around the subframe. The picture is on its side.


    10th step: place the small jack under subframe, I placed a 2 inch board to raise the jack higher to make it easier, but it was not necessary. Then soap up the bushing and place the subframe on the jack. Slowly jack the bushing up to the hole that it is going into. You have to make sure that the bushing is mated up to the 2 notches or bumps on the sides of the subframe hole. You will then jack the bushing up as high as you can before the car starts to rise. Then let the small jack down.

    11th step: This is where you attach the chains to the jack turning it in to a press. I attached 1 chain to each side of the jack. using the links that you can take off and on.


    12th step: Slowly jack the jack up. You will have to reposition the jack a number of times to make sure that bushing is going up nice and straight. But make sure that you stop every few jacks so the bushing can slowly go up. once you have make the bushing nice and flush to the subframe you need to but everything back together.

    13th step repeat for the other side.

    This took me about 1 1/2 hours. I used the drill a lot more then the sawzal.


    So if you have any comments or thoughts please let me know.


    Andy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    hiss by my window
    That drill bit is a "spade bit". I think you are the first to ever use one for auto repair. Any port in a storm, right.
    There are some very resourceful guys here.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    The spade bit was great, like I said it did better then the sawzal.


    Andy

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Wisconsin
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    Quote Originally Posted by ross1 View Post
    That drill bit is a "spade bit". I think you are the first to ever use one for auto repair. Any port in a storm, right.
    There are some very resourceful guys here.
    I like the chain idea too. Hadn't seen that approach before.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    Vallejo, CA
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    DIY


    PM a moderator.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1990525i View Post
    the bees knees

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
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    e30 & e34
    Very nice, don't even have to remove the subframe and all to replace!
    e30 84 340i m6x powered.
    e34 89 535i 5speed - current DD
    e24 89 635csi - maybe a DD?

    e34 93 525i (m50tu) - gone
    e39 540i 6spd m-sport - gone
    e53 x5 4.4l - gone
    e30 89 325i (m20) - gone

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    awesome! good write up! seems easy enough. Cant wait to order some powerflex bushings and put em in.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Meldrum Bar Park
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    The chain idea is great! Wish I had that when I did my own E28 bushings...pretty much the exact same as you, minus the chains.

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