I’m attempting to remove my GM so I can replace the capacitors. (The temperature has dropped into the 40s and my interior lights are sequencing, the trunk lock cycling, and the door windows moving erratically.)
Working upside in the driver’s footwell and trying to get two hands operating in a confined space is difficult at best.
Any removal tips would be appreciated.
- What is the technique for releasing the three large connectors from the lower module (EKM)?
- Once the EKM is removed from the cassette (if possible) can the GM be removed without dropping the cassette that is holding the three modules?
Carl
Its a huge PIA. Make sure you remove the knee bolster. It has 2 bolts on each side, somewhat hidden. Once that is out, you'll have much better access and should be able to get the GM out of the cassette easily. I fought with mine for quite a while, decided to do a more extensive search and found a good write up with pics that mentioned the knee bolster.
Last edited by 02540ico; 12-09-2011 at 02:05 PM.
I'm not saying you're stupid, I'm saying you have bad luck at thinking.
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'78 Glastron/Carlson CV23 '96 K2500 Suburban; '88 Suzuki Intruder 1400
Thanks for the quick response.
I found the two bolts on the seat side of the knee booster but was unable to find the others. So I removed the two bottom bolts holding the cassette to the frame just above the hood release. I figured out how to release the connectors. You have to push in just forward of the plastic bar connecting the moveable slides. With the lower module removed you can muscle out the GM.
Your right it is a PITA - especially the brake pedal digging into your temple. Why they couldn't have installed the modules face down is a mystery.
Good luck to all those who try this. But it sure beats paying $$$ for a "professional' to do it.
Done it a few times... The connectors really hurt the ol' fingers Being upside down isn't so much fun either. It's not hard, just awkward. It helps being limber. Better yet, if you're a gymnast lol. Just take your time. I found that using protective eyewear with LED lights on the sides REALLY helps to see the bolts that hold the carrier cassette shelf thingy that the units are slid into. It's dark up in there.
While you're at it, why not swap the LKM for a euro LKM? The difference is startling!
Last edited by Koizumi; 12-09-2011 at 03:04 PM.
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Koizumi, I guess you're not missing anymore!!!!
Thanks for the suggestion on the euro LKM. What changes should I expect with the swap of the LKM's? Where is the best place to find one.
I'm in the process of installing the GM with the new capacitors. Now that I'm experienced in removing the GM its really not that bad. It just seemed undaunting at the time plus coupled with working on your head with only one hand.
I think I could remove the next one in 10m or less.
Carl
You will get more Lighting with the Euro LKM, You will also need a euro light switch if you don't already have it, Your LKM can be flashed to Euro spec, This way your only paying for programming or and exchange.)
+1 on removing the knee bolster....
I cant imagine doing it without doing that.
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Don't try Iceman, take it from a 3 hundred pound man it took me two+ hrs and a day practically in traction afterward.It was actually harder to get them back in and reconnected. (I didn't know the bolster was removeable til after the fact.) I had to do everything by feel, I felt like Hell afterward but very satisfied as it was the first thing I replaced/repaired on my new to me 8.
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The procedure I used to remove the GM in situ was:
1) Remove the two lower bolts for the cassette. (The upper bolt is very difficult to remove and probably harder to re-install so I left it alone.)
2) Pull the cassette downward to remove it from the contraint of these two bolts so it is free to move.
3) Remove the four connectors from the lower module and then remove the module by releasing the two cassette locking tabs and then pushing the module from the back.
4) Remove the three connectors from the GM and, like the lower module, release the two locking tabs and push it from the back of the module. (The ability of the cassette to move forward, although anchored by the upper bolt, provides enough space to allow the GM to be slide out easily with a downward motion.)
Perfect Instructions
Like other guy said you have to be in upside down with you head touching the brake pedal
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