I had my mechanic change my sparkplug wires, rotors and distributor caps yesterday. Later that day I started having the problems you've been discussing here. Over the weekend I'll take my car back to him with all this info and see what we find out. I'll keep you posted.
Last edited by jetrooster; 03-10-2012 at 07:34 AM.
I believe i saw the sensor wire on bank one but not on bank 2 @ #12. I pulled the wires totaly off and layed them at a right angle to eh engine to replace the 2 wires. I am in Stealth limp home mode as well. Car seems like it starts on 12 and then dropps off to 6 cyliders. just the drivers side is running.
Last edited by cer54467; 03-26-2012 at 04:35 PM.
If you do not have the inductive sensor on the # 12 plug lead, the car will start on 12 cylinders and then drop to 6.
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
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yeah but it is running on that side.....!??! I have ot double check a few things and then i am going to start swapping Fuel pump relays and coils and DME's. I just remebers the inductive sensor is way up by the cap and it is on the wire.
Induction coil/sensors both there and plugged in. I guess next easiest is check FP relay voltage? And then start swapping coil, then DME? i still have to figure out the ticking.... loose cam cradle cap?
Last edited by cer54467; 03-26-2012 at 07:41 PM.
Sorry for the late update. I changed out the new 6 and 12 plug wires (the once with the sensors) with the old once I had on before. Problem gone!!!!! So I bought a faulty plug wire set (Bosh).
Sorry to dredge up an old thread but I have recently started experiencing this exact problem. Unfortunately, I've never been able to get the diagnostic port to work (I've tried and a dozen known working systems but there's a fault somewhere that is preventing diagnostics from working properly - but that's another story) so I'm always having to identify issues the old fashioned way. I too replaced the ignition leads with aftermarket but kept the original crank sensors. They have been working fine since I replaced them (about 3 years ago) until a few weeks ago when I had, coincidentally, not driven the car for a while and forgot to unhook the batteries. Ever since recharging the batteries this issue has presented itself.
The car starts fine, idles fine (although it has developed a slight hiccup on cold starts which goes as soon as you apply the throttle) and drives fine but it has started losing a bank (not sure which) when cruising at speed. If you button off the power and reapply the bank seems to come back online.
Reading these posts I'd hazard a guess that either plug 6 or 12 has come loose (this after market set has had an occasional history of working loose under load weirdly) or one of the sensors is poked. Will see if I can find a good used donut and try switching them up.
check your plugs on 12 and 6, just remove them and visually inspect it.. if its carbonized from oil consumption, it'll be shorted, and won't send much of a spark signal to "doughnut - cam sensor".
- - - Updated - - -
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...&highlight=txd
Post #11. Hope it'll help.
Will certainly check the plugs but hope I don't find oil - haven't got time for valve stem seal replacements in the near future!!
Massive thanks for the other post. I was 100% certain a faulty module was preventing diagnostics from working properly but hadn't figured out how to identify which one! Will try that out this weekend.
That's why I love this forum!!
Plug 12 was the issue. The lead had worked it's way loose so it would run on 11 cylinders then occasionally lose a bank when the CPS wasn't getting the right info. For some reason (actually I know the reason and it's 'aftermarket') the plug socket just doesn't 'snap' on to the plug like the others, not matter how hard I push. So eventually, it works its way off. Guess I'll have to redo the wires at some point - or just check it before each drive.
Haven't ID'd the faulty module yet so I can get the scanner going but will hopefully do so this or next weekend.
After re-securing the lead it promptly popped off again and I lost a bank. Looks like it's a crappy plug boot. Will try crimping it a little and filling it with dielectric grease to see if I can get a better contact. Otherwise it'll need replacing, though a good opportunity to refresh coils and distributor caps and rotors, which haven't been done during my ownership (which means possibly haven't been done at all!).
Excellent work and thanks for updating with the fix!
Timm..2007 E64 650i Individual Sport..1999 E31 840ci Individual Sport..ex owner of 2000 E38 740..1999 E38 740i V8 M62..1998 E38 735i V8..1993 E32 730i V8..1988 E28 518i
My BMW Repair YouTube Channel
My Current 840ci Sport Individual
My Current 650ci Sport Individual
My E31 Repair and Information Website
My E38 Repair and Information Website
My E63/E64 Repair and Information Website
Chase - Heroes to a generation
Cleaned up the boot and fitted properly but the problem persisted so I decided to take a look at the other end. Turns out the connection at the distributor end was much worse. A lot of oxidisation suggesting that the contact was poor. This was an aftermarket lead with a push fit 90° boot which I fitted in order to re-use the CP sensors which were in good nick. Obviously the push-fit connection wasn't working either as there was a lot of oxidisation inside the boot as well. I've tried to scrape it away with a thin file but it's not perfect. Any suggestions on how to clean this up or should I replace? Anyone know where I can get a single cyl 12 lead?
What number lead?
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
Have one tested good but shipping to NZ takes a while!
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
Would include sensor...
91 850 (Panzer), 2012 Mini Cooper Countryman (WifeMobile) www.wuffer.ca
Looks like cyl 12 spark plug hole is also threaded. What a pain in the proverbial. Am hoping by removing the battery terminal and cabin filter cowl, I might be able to make enough room to get a rethread tool in there. Can the brake master cylinder be moved easily without bleeding the brakes?
To my recollection, the master cylinder (and booster) would be very difficult to reposition without a lot of disassembly work. Removing the heater auxiliary pump may gain some room (label or photograph the maze of connecting hoses. You will have to burp the cooling system after refill.) It is still going to be an adventure working on cylinder 12! Good luck.
Mark in mid-MO
1993 BMW 850Ci 6-speed
2011 Cadi CTS coupe 6-speed
I just found this thread after starting another one today about this same problem with intermittent running. Has anyone figured out the 2235 code?I've had 2247 on my motronic. EDIT: I also had a mystery code 2235 a few weeks ago that wasn't on the charts.
BTW, I ohmed the donuts and one appeared to be bad even tho it was brand new aftermarket. I subbed the old oem wire, but i have not subbed the other oem wire for the new donut that is still on the car. Maybe this will solve the problem.
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