Budget PT6262/SPA/NickG/TiAl Build

[milKt]

There was some talk HERE recently of some sealant that performs VERY well
on "edge" type leaks that you're describing.

Either way...glad she's running well.
Holding coolant pressure?
Bled the system nicely yet?

[M3GSX]

Permatex "Ultra Grey" is the same chemical composition of Hondabond. FYI.

I took a permatex class back in Tech school years ago and learned this.


Great Stuff is much less flexible and much harder to remove when needed.

[cmzwirner]

I know sniz recently used some sort of industrial grade super magical sealant. The properties of that sealant(iirc it is brush on) would make it hard to apply in this area. I could put it in a long ass syringe gun.

Would you recommend hondabond or something else for this leak? If hondabond is easy to remove, it's probably better used as a gasket maker than an adhesive sealant.

[cmzwirner]

Does anybody have any tips on how to successfully contact George at ICS or Nick from TT? I have been trying to contact nick about a 91 remap for the past 2 weeks, and George for validation of my MAF wiring for the past week(since it is his kit). The MAF thing is really holding me back.

Hopefully the tune lives up the the hype. This is a pain in the ass.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Is it me or not, does the car sound like it is idling high??

[cmzwirner]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1765461

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1765461

LOL! I accidentally skipped that thread. Not sure why. Thanks.

[cmzwirner]

Bump it so i can update it! I hate that you cant double post.

[cmzwirner]

Just a little update. It turned out to be adaption. I never thought adaption could make that much of a difference, but it did.

I took a trip back down home last friday. I then went and met up with Philip saturday morning to test out my tune. I go to drive Philip's car with my tune, and it ran beautifully. AFR's were good, the car pulled hard, no codes, and a great startup idle. The only problem that the tune caused, was an abnormally high idle when off throttle. It would settle down after a few seconds though. That doesnt bother me at all. Im at the point where i want to drive the car. If the AFR's are good and the idle is fine, im happy. Also.. I drove under "low boost", 11PSI. That will be enough for me for awhile. Incredible.

As for the build itself, I have gone is a slightly different direction. I saved some cash for the potential new ECU/reflash from nick. Now that i dont need it, I decided to get myself something i have always wanted.

On monday I ordered a Hobart Handler 140 from NorthernTool!



I also got:
Well-Bilt auto darkening helmet
4 torin locking pin 3 ton jackstands
1 20 ton bottlejack
1 60CF Trimix gas cylinder
1 2lb spool of .23 SS wire
1 2lb spool of .30 MS wire
A few magneticg square things

Ill be using this thing to weld my exhaust, reinforce the RTAB pockets, reinforce the front subframe, and go completely overkill on the rear subframe. Im hoping to get something like Luke's madbimmer rear subframe. Ill also be building a press using the 20 ton bottle jack. Like this:



No more threaded rod/pipe cap tools!

I still need to fix the timing cover leak. It is huge(after running for a minute a 2" puddle forms on the floor), so i might have to just pull the head again. If this is the case, the build will be finished in the summer. I dont care though. Its not like im able to drive it until then anyways.

[MikeE36]

Its not like im able to drive it until then anyways.

and this is why I love Texas. Drive it 12/12 months of the year


Good luck with the leak! and nice goodies

-Mike

[GG///M3]

and this is why I love Texas. Drive it 12/12 months of the year


Good luck with the leak! and nice goodies

-Mike

Hrmmi with Global Wraming we may all get to enjoy such pleasures.

[cmzwirner]

Thats what im hoping. Maine will become a tropical state soon.

[cmzwirner]

Exhaust and intake:












Parts list:
2x 4' 3" 304SS straight tube - $80
1x 3" 304SS u-bend - $56
2.5" 304SS vband flange and clamp - $18
3" 304SS vband flanges and clamp - $28
1x magnaflow 3" straight through muffler - $70
1x magnaflow 3" straight through muffler with 4" tip - $120
1x 3" 304SS flex section - $25
1x o2 sensor bung - $5
TIG welding - $80
45 degree 4" to 3" silicone coupler - $18
Total: $500

These prices include shipping. I remember a few members saying that it you simply couldnt put together stainless exhaust for less than 1k. It could probably have been done for $350 or less if i went for a regular muffler. This thing should last the life of the car.

For those of you that are looking to make your own exhaust, do it. It is very fun to fabricate it, and it is very easy if you take it one step at a time. Cut, fit, tack, repeat.

I have the drivers side rear wheel jacked up because the exhaust rests on the swaybar. I wanted it to sit higher, so i jacked the wheel up and modified the hangers. Also, the wastegate piping will be routed back into the exhaust this summer. I just have to run open dump for awhile to experience it.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

Nice fab skills.
Where did you purchase most of your parts?

[cmzwirner]

I purchased my parts from many different retailers. The straight 3" piping was from Jegs(i had them pricematch mandrelbends.com). The U-bend was from Mandrelbending solutions in MD. I had them pricematch mandrelbends.com. Everything else was from ebay. Best offers can save a ton of money. The magnaflow with a tip was bought from a member on here though. I negotiated every price below what they were normally going for, and bought the big parts from places that dont charge much for shipping(like JEGS).

[pbonsalb]

Looks good. Is it driveable?

[cmzwirner]

It is drivable, but i dont know how drivable yet. Im going to bleed the cooling system and take it for a drive tomorrow to see if my AFR's go back to normal. Hopefully the adaption will sort itself out quickly, and will allow the car to start with the MAF plugged in.

Also philip. I finally received the tps envelope today. The mail mixed up our address with someone elses down the road on monday, and they decided to wait 5 days to give it to us.

Unfortunately, a 3" chunk of the envelope was missing. There was a poor attempt to tape it back together by a USPS employee, but the TPS was lost in transit. There was a paper in there describing a "merrimack bridge" named after a war hero though.

[cmzwirner]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QQhmbyZbsQ[/ame]
So close.

I dont know what the hell that liquid was that i saw in the expansion tank. There wasnt an oil film on top of the coolant, so i think i was just being paranoid. As usual.

I hear lifter tick and an exhaust leak at the vband connection under the car. Im also getting a little residual pressure if it runs for awhile. Im going to retorque to head studs to see if they are to spec.

[Sniz]

I know sniz recently used some sort of industrial grade super magical sealant. The properties of that sealant(iirc it is brush on) would make it hard to apply in this area. I could put it in a long ass syringe gun.

Would you recommend hondabond or something else for this leak? If hondabond is easy to remove, it's probably better used as a gasket maker than an adhesive sealant.

that stuff i used worked well but was not easy to work with in tight quarters.

[cmzwirner]

The leak was effectively sealed with hondabond.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

The leak was effectively sealed with hondabond.

Which leak?

[cmzwirner]

There was a leak on the front of the head. Right on the front timing cover bolt hole where the head meets the timing cover. It was leaking down the left side of the head, and dripping onto the ac compressor. It acted just like a timing cover to block leak, but it came from a different location.

I just cleaned it well and applied hondabond. Leak gone.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

There was a leak on the front of the head. Right on the front timing cover bolt hole where the head meets the timing cover. It was leaking down the left side of the head, and dripping onto the ac compressor. It acted just like a timing cover to block leak, but it came from a different location.

I just cleaned it well and applied hondabond. Leak gone.

Did you not use RTV on the head gasket around the timing chain area?

[cmzwirner]

I applied hondabond on the timing cover area. I applied it on the block and on the top of the gasket. It just didn't seal. I'm sure it was installer error though.

[pbonsalb]

Looks and sounds like it is finally coming together.