Hydraulic valve lifters maker/price info 11331712010

[shogun]

I just got 24 valve lifters shipped from Germany for the M70 engine, the up-to-date p/n is
11331712010 older numbers are
22331433672 became unvalid 18.11.2004
11331247054 became unvalid 11.06.1996
11331721698 became unvaild 13.11.1992
11331715458 became unvalid 05.05.1988
11331714604 became unvalid 11.11.1988

I got the hydraulic lifters made by ajusa in Spain, their part number is 85000900, other makers are
AJUSA：85000900
AUTEX：955039
FEBI：08741
INA：420001910
IPD：454034
RUVILLE：265005
SWAG：20180001
TOPRAN：500888
These valves are used in many BMW models and other car makes. BMW Part 11331712010 (Hydr.valve pushrod) was found on the following vehicles:
E30:316i.E30 318i,E31: 850Ci/CSi,E32: 750i/L/iLS M70,E34: 518i, 518g, E36:316i,318i,316g, 318i, 318is,318ti,316i 1.9,E38: 750i/iL/LP/iLS, L7,E46: 316Ci,316i 1.6,316i 1.9,318Ci,318i,Z3: Z3 1.8, Z3 1.9
realoem list price is Hydr.valve pushrod 11331712010 $32.50, that would mean times 24 for the M70 engine = $780,00 = EURO 565,00.

I got 24 pieces ajusa 85000900 total for EURO 225,41 = US$ 310,00 at present exchange rates from Motorenteile-Express in Germany, but had to ask a friend in Germany to buy for me as they do not ship outside the EU, so I have to add this shipping cost to him and then to my address in Japan. Ebay link to the store http://stores.ebay.de/Motorenteile-Express
link to their shop http://www.motorenteile-express.com/
shop price per piece is: Preis: 12,48 € x 24 = EURO 299,52 so their set prices on Ebay were cheaper. Check and search with the part numbers of these makers based on your choice of maker and you will find them on the internet, Ebay etc.
hydraulic valve clearance elements are delivered filled with oil.
However due to incorrect or prolonged storage the elements may lose oil or become aerated, possibly resulting in valve noise.
To solve this, it is necessary that the elements are refilled strictly in accordance to the manufacturer's procedure.
This also includes testing the oil pressure. Should these measures not show any results, the affected part should be replaced. When changing the oil, please ensure to use a product that complies with the specifications of the manufacturers.

Recommendations for re-priming hydraulic valve elements
Under certain circumstances (e.g. cold start/many starts/rebuilt engine) valve noise can occur. For re-priming the elements the following simple procedure should be obeyed:
1. If, after the first engine start (rebuilt engine), engine start or during hot idling valve noise occurs, the engine should run at a constant 2500 RPM. Or, at a varying speed between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM for 4 minutes.
2. Then the engine should be left to idle for at least 30 seconds.
3. If, after this cycle has been completed, the valve noise has subsided the elements have been re-primed, if valve noise continues steps 1 and 2 should be repeated.
4. 90% of all cases will be dealt with during the first cycle.
5. For the few exceptions it may be necessary to repeat the cycle up to 5 or 6 times.
6. If, after step 5 valve noise still persists, it is recommended that the noisy elements should be removed, replaced and inspected.

copied from: www.febi.com info, here the direct link http://art.rexbo.net/febi/pdf/ventilspiel-d.pdf
Febi Part Number: 08741
•Operating Mode: Hydraulic
•Outer Diameter: 16 mm
•Thickness: 48,5 mm
•Weight: 0,052 kg

Original part numbers(only for comparison)BMW
11331715458,11331712010, 11331714604 , 11331433672, 11331721698, 11331247054,

[Dr. T]

Shogun, any difference which brand of lifters are used? Are any brands better than others? How do they differ from the OE BMW version?

[shogun]

I am not sure, but believe the originals are from INA. Own experience with Ajusa, no problem, also the Febi I have heard good comments as well as from Ruville, the others I do not know. I guess there are no big differences, just name and price.
While you do the job, check for wear on the other parts as shown here : SOLUCIONAR SONIDO A TAQUES EN BMW 750I E32 http://www.gti16.com/usr/coco/bmw_m7...70_taques.html

[unity]

Glad I found this. Since I need 24 for the M70, a dollar each is a big difference. AJUSA seem to be okay, so for $6 each versus $10 each for INA, that saves me $100 on the project which I will put towards Max Lumens intake gasket set.

[shogun]

We installed the Ajusa in 2011, no problem. FCP has them at the moment for $5.99/piece in the clearance sale. AJUSA is since 2011 a division of CRP.
11331712010

[tsmcg161]

Put all 24 INA lifters in with new valve stem seals. No regrets!

[unity]

FCP has Ajusa for $4.99 each right now. So about $120 for a full set on a V12.

[unity]

Okay, forget Ajusa. Myself and another seem to have an issue with them in an M70. Both of us have valve noise after replacing. In my case, new rockers and pads with lifters. In the other case, just lifters. Since INA is OEM and other have had no issue with them, I ordered a set. The best price was really good and I wish I had known before or I would have ordered. I only found this price searching again for them. Spareto.com has them at a great price. Shipping is $32 for DHL 2-day to the US from Estonia. Your shipping may not be the same. But for me, with shipping, $160 USD. Thats only about $6.66 each and they got them out the door right away.

Once I replace them, I am going to return the Ajusa ones to FCP.

[sammittrue]

It was a real dissopointment, in my case. I actually just sold my car yesterday. I had dumped a bunch of time and money into my car. Now I'm slammed at work and just don't have the time to deal with it. Out if frustration... It wasn't supposed to end this way. But at least I got out all the money I put in and a little extra for time. I hope to own another one day. Good luck man I hope it's the last time you have to tear into it!

[unity]

Yeah... I have told myself to sell this thing many times. But I put so much $ into it, it would be out money in the end. And its so close to being a restoration at this point! lol Really want to get a Land Rover.

[sammittrue]

I already have sellers remorse. It really was a great car. I owned it since 07 I think it had 130k when I bought it and 270k as of yesterday. Hopefully the next week be 850!

[unity]

Oh wow. I only had mine for a few years now. Two of which is sat in my garage and before that, sat many more in another. I think I only put about 50k miles on mine! Well, hopefully something else comes along!

In other news, my lifter just came minutes ago with DHL. No signature needed. Like last time, they sorta hint one is needed for a Spareto delivery. Anyway, three boxes of INA lifters! I am going to soak in light oil and pre-compress each manually before installing. Just to be sure! Then I will see about returning the others to FCP.

[unity]

Update: Avoid Ajusa for M70 lifters. Finally got INA installed. Dead quiet again.

[shogun]

here the new INA make noise https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...ter-Ina-On-M50

[shogun]

Yesterday we installed a new Ajusa in a 750 M70 engine, only one piece as the old, original one was making a bit of noise during cold start.
At first start-up after the installation the Ajusa made a ticking noise with cold engine, then drove the car for abt. 15 minutes with a different RPM range and then the ticking noise was gone.
Still wondering why it is a problem with the ticking of new lifters, not only Ajusa but even INA in some cases.

Recommendations for re-priming hydraulic valve elements
Under certain circumstances (e.g. cold start/many starts/rebuilt engine) valve noise can occur. For re-priming the elements the following simple procedure should be obeyed:
1. If, after the first engine start (rebuilt engine), engine start or during hot idling valve noise occurs, the engine should run at a constant 2500 RPM. Or, at a varying speed between 2000 RPM and 3000 RPM for 4 minutes.
2. Then the engine should be left to idle for at least 30 seconds.
3. If, after this cycle has been completed, the valve noise has subsided the elements have been re-primed, if valve noise continues steps 1 and 2 should be repeated.
4. 90% of all cases will be dealt with during the first cycle.
5. For the few exceptions it may be necessary to repeat the cycle up to 5 or 6 times.
6. If, after step 5 valve noise still persists, it is recommended that the noisy elements should be removed, replaced and inspected.

[unity]

I dunno, but FCP never resolved my issue after multiple emails saying they were looking into it. I referenced posts here about the Ajusa lifter being a problem with another person too. So I dont buy from FCP anymore if they can not take care of customers. I even told them I was not expecting a refund per say even though they have a warranty. I still have my set of Ajusa sitting in the garage. I drove quite a while with Ajusa lifters. Primed them multiple times as listed above. They never got better. They must have had a bad batch?

The INA lifter I purchased for a very good price.

If you want INA, you can get them for about $6.70 USD each from Sapreto.com. Prices there include 20% VAT, so they drop in price at checkout when shipping is added. But when I shopped, shipping was $30 Euro for 2-day DHL - no other option. Now its up to $60 Euro for shipping! In total, I paid about $200 shipped for a complete set of INA. Right now with price adjustments, it would be about $230 from Spareto. From FCP, about $270. So Spareto is still a better price even with FCP's free shipping.

[shogun]

I also have no idea why that sometimes is ticking when installing new lifters, we used the Ajusa because we still had them on stock from last purchase and no problem so far. After I had read your comments about the Ajusa ticking I would also have bought INA just to be sure, because the work involved to replace them is also to be considered.
Maybe a bad batch (?)

[unity]

Just a quick update on my tale. I decided, mainly because this thread reminded me, that since FCP never got back to me on my issues with the Ajusa lifters I would try them one last time. Kyle, again, did get back to me and apologized for sorta dropping the ball on any sorta follow-up. So they are issuing a refund for the lifter I bought. They have been redeemed. It took til today from my initial inquiry on October 22nd, 2017. But its better than nothing!

As for possibly being a bad batch. He did not say if they have had more reports. But there are two cases here about Ajusa lifters. So I would simply be wary for now. Maybe I can find some lot numbers on the packaging. I think I saved that stuff for holding the old ones during the swap.

[shogun]

Toubleshooting BMW Hydraulic Bucket Tappet Problems

The two most common reasons for the replacement of BMW hydraulic bucket tappets (HVA) found in M42, M44, M50, M52, M54, M60, M62, S50, S52 and S62 engines are: tapping/rattling noise from the valve train area or a binding HVA element. Tapping/rattling noise from the valve train area may have various different causes depending on engine oil level, engine/oil temperature, when the noise is heard (cold start, engine hot), etc.
The following Complaint/Cause and Repair scenarios will assist in troubleshooting for HVA element noise:

Situation 1A
Tapping / rattling noises from the area of the valve train up to 20 seconds after a cold start.
Cause
These noises can be traced back to the higher viscosity of cold mineral based engine oil. For a brief moment insufficient oil reaches the high pressure chamber ofthe HVA element via the high pressure valve after start up. This results in clearance between the HVA element and the camshaft lobe which then causes a tapping/rattling noise.

Influencing factors for this complaint:
• Viscosity of engine oil used
• Ambient temperature
This condition is not caused by mechanical damage to any engine components and has no damaging effect on the service life ofthe engine.

Repair
Check that oil viscosity is matched to ambient temperature range at which the vehicle is being operated. Refer to Temperature/Viscosity chart for further information.

Situation 1B
Tapping/rattling noises in the area of the valve train for the first 8 -10 consecutive cold starts. This condition usually occurs after the engine has been turned off at normal operating temperature and then not warmed up to full operating temperature during the next series of cold starts. This operating condition can occur, for example, on new vehicles.
Cause
Hot engine oil initially escapes from the oil galley of the HVA elements when the engine is stopped. A small amount of oil also escapes through the gaps between the HVA elements and the HVA housings in the cylinder head.
The oil then contracts while the engine is cooling down and allows air to enter the oil system. During the subsequent cold start, this air can be forced into the HVA elements (causing air pockets) through the build up of engine oil pressure. The resulting clearance between the HVA elements and the camshaft lobes causes the tapping/rattling noises.
This HVA tapping/rattling noise is not dependent on the amount oftime the engine is off, but rather on:
• The temperature of the engine when it was turned off (operating temperature – hot)
• The number of subsequent cold starts without the engine being warmed up to operating temperature.
Repair
Run the engine to dissipate (bleed) the air trapped in the high pressure chamber of the HVA elements.
Refer to the HVA bleeding procedure described below.
Situation 1C
Tapping/rattling noises in the area of the valve train after extreme cornering/lateral acceleration (engine oil level at or below minimum).
Note: These valve train noises will not stop until the engine is run for approximately 10 – 15 minutes at an engine speed of at least 2,500 rpm with the oil at the proper level.

Cause
During extreme corneringllateral acceleration with the engine oil level at or below minimum, air can be drawn in by the oil pump (oil foaming). The air which is drawn into the oil system can enter the HVA elements. The resulting clearance between the HVA elements and the camshaft lobes causes the tapping/rattling noises.

Repair

Run the engine to dissipate (bleed) the air trapped in the high pressure chamber ofthe HVA elements. Refer to the HVA bleeding procedure described below.

HVA Bleeding Procedure:
• Check oil level – correct if necessary.
• Let engine idle at operating temperature with the hood open to verify valve train tapping/rattling noise.
• If a tapping/rattling noise can be heard from the valve train, run the engine for 3 minutes without load at approximately 2,500 to 3,000 rpm (bleeding procedure).
• Then with the engine at idle listen for valve train noises again.
Note: Only listen for noises when the engine has reached minimum oil pressure, i.e. after a waiting period (at idle) of approximately 15 – 30 seconds.
• If no more noises can be heard, the test procedure is complete. No further action is necessary, the engine is working properly.
• If the tapping/rattling noises can still be heard, the bleeding procedure must be repeated (run the engine for 3 minutes at 2,500 – 3,000 rpm).If necessary, repeat this procedure up to five times.
• If the tapping/rattling noises can still be heard, the bleeding procedure must be performed one final time for approximately 15 minutes.
• If no more noises can be heard, the test procedure is complete. No further action is necessary, the engine is working properly.
If the tapping/ rattling noise is still heard after performing the above HVA Bleeding Procedure the following scenarios will assist in further troubleshooting for HVA element noise:
If the noise is coming from all HVA elements an oil supply problem is the most likely cause.
Check engine oil pressure as outlined in the appropriate repair manual.

If the oil pump pressure (at idle = minimum pressure or regulated =maximum pressure) is below specification a visual inspection of the oil pump and oil pump pick up in the oil pan should be performed with emphasis on the pick up gasket and control valve O-ring were applicable.
Note: A faulty oil pump control valve O-ring or oil pump pick up gasket (slight tear in O-ring or gasket) may not always result in a low oil pressure indication when performing an oil pressure check. The air drawn in to the lubrication system via a defective gasket or O-ring will cause oil foaming and HVA tapping/rattling noises.
If the noise is still coming from an individual HVA element after performing the above HVA Bleeding Procedure the suspected element(s) can be isolated as follows:
• Remove cylinder head cover.
• Turn the engine over (normal direction of rotation) until the camshaft lobe ofthe HVA element to be checked is pointing away from the HVA element (engine valve completely closed).
• Repeatedly apply a force ofapproximately 2.25 ft.lbs to the HVA element with your thumb or using a folding arm tool BMW special tool number 90 88 6 009 321 (included in the BMW assembly wedge kit P/N 90 88 6 009 310) or a hard wood wedge.
If the HVA element collapses slightly as though it is spring loaded, this is a sign that air is trapped in the high pressure chamber.
Apply a force of approximately 4.50 – 6.75 ft.lbs for 10 – 15 seconds to the HVA element using your thumb, folding arm tool or a hard wood wedge.

If clearance between the camshaft lobe and the HVA element is created when the force is applied, this indicates that the check valve incorporated in the HVA element is not closing/sealing properly due to contamination.
• Release the applied force from the HVA element and using a feeler gauge measure the clearance between the HVA element and the camshaft lobe.
If any clearance is detected this indicates that the HVA element is sticking.
• Conduct the checks as described above on all HVA elements.
• Mark any suspect "soft" HVA element(s) for further examination.
Remove HVA elements and visually inspect. Replace any suspect "soft" HVA element(s) and check others for extreme wear (deep grooves, scratches, etc.) which may also need to be replaced.
Note: Always reinstall used HVA elements in the same bore which they were removed from. This prevents possible binding due to different wear patterns between the bore in the HVA housing and HVA element.

Situation 2
Binding HVA element.
Cause
An HVA element which is binding (element stuck in the extended position) will not allow avalve (intake or exhaust) to seat properly causing valve seat leakage.
This type of HVA failure may not cause a tapping/rattling noise but the customer complaint may be, "engine runs rough during the warm up phase and runs good when warmed up" and/or the "Check Engine" lamp is on.
If the "Check Engine" lamp is illuminated due to a binding HVA element(s) one or more misfire fault codes may be set in the Engine Control Module (ECM/DME).
Note: Basic troubleshooting should be performed First before checking for a binding HVA element to eliminate all other possible factors/components which could set the misfire faults such as low fuel level, a faulty spark plug, etc.

Troubleshooting Tips:
• If there is a binding HVA element in one or more cylinders as described above a misfire fault can typically be reproduced in the affected cylinderfs) by duplicating the conditions in which the misfire occurred according to the DME/ECM fault code description i.e., at engine temperature = X, engine speed = X, etc.
• A binding HVA element which is causing a misfire in one specific cylinder will not "move" to an other cylinder and will always cause a misfire fault in the affected cylinder.
• Performing the "Smooth-Running" test (found in the DME control unit functions section of DIS) will assist in pin pointing a cylinder with a binding HVA element.
A cylinder with a binding HVA element will indicate a high reading when compared to the other good cylinders.
• Since a binding HVA element may in some cases be intermittent (engine only runs rough when cold) if a cylinder leak down check is used for troubleshooting this should be performed when the problem exists, for example: compare the cylinder leakage rates to each other with a cold engine to determine the cylinder with the extreme leakage rate.
A cylinder with a binding HVA element will indicate a leakage rate above 15%.
Remove suspected HVA elements and visually inspect.
• A binding HVA element will typically have a high pressure piston (located in the center of the HVA element body) which extends out approximately 3 mm further when compared to the other HVA elements removed from the cylinder head.
Replace any binding HVA element(s) and check others for extreme wear (deep grooves, scratches, etc.) which may also need to be replaced.
Note: Always reinstall used HVA elements in the same bore which they were removed from. This prevents possible binding due to different wear patterns between the bore in the HVA housing and HVA element.

Some or all of this information was provided by the Automotive Parts Remanufacturers Association (APRA).
from engine builders mag