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Thread: Part needed - NLA from dealer

  1. #26
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    Feb 2009
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    Long Island, NY
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    97 M3 & 13 Rav4
    3D printing the part is ok if printed in ABS or ASA.

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  2. #27
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Machu Picchu
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    1996 E36 328 Coupe
    I guess it is, now, if it's possible to print using ABS but depend on region, the price for printing them may be a bit too high, for just 2 not so visible parts. I still recommend and prefer plastic weld. Cheap less than 50 bucks fix, if you have a heatgun and got some manual talent.
    Last edited by bl00keRs; 08-01-2020 at 05:10 PM.

  3. #28
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    Jan 2003
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    BMW M3
    What about plastic trim covers on both sides, are they available as separate part number?

  4. #29
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    May 2006
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    DE-spec E36 328i/M3 cab
    How about some junkyard?
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiί III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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  5. #30
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    May 2017
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    Machu Picchu
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    1996 E36 328 Coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by M3C View Post
    What about plastic trim covers on both sides, are they available as separate part number?

    There aren't any other part number which superseds this part. The only number is the 52208153256. You need to find them in acceptable for you condition at some junkyard, or decide to recover your existing ones.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    USA
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    BMW M3
    It is only the cap that covers the end, now if that can be 3D printed.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    USA
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    Almost gave up but after one more dig found it under the rear carpet, glued back, also cleaned sticky surface on both strips.


  8. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    508
    My Cars
    E36 M3
    2021 Revival
    This damn part devolves into a sticky mess and loses all it's color and you start seeing the base off-white plastic material.
    Don't pull on them - they just slide off!
    I'm doing my rear shelf pillars ands headliner and going to try to refinish these... sand and paint.. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fresno
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    2
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    1995 M3
    Mine 52208153256 became gummy and the ends cracked in the hot Fresno sun. I removed very carefully the end caps. Then I took a razor blade and carved off the tar like coating down to the white plastic piece. Goof off worked great to remove the residual tar coating. I then recovered them with matt black 3M vinyl wrap. I slid them back onto the seats. Then I glued the end caps back on with Devcon weldit glue. They look like OEM and will surely last longer. Hope this helps.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Los Angeles
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    E36 M3
    ok I finally refurbed mine. I hate repairing or refurbing parts I'd much rather buy new but there was no choice here. It came out excellent - like new.
    The old soft-touch rubberized gunk came off with my bare hands and some IPA. I just rubbed it off. Once completely cleaned off you will have the off-white plastic pieces. Sand them down to scuff them up a little and repaint them w/ something like SEM or Plasti-Dip textured coating.

    https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39853-Tex...omotive&sr=1-1
    https://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Dip-Mu...omotive&sr=1-6
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #36
    Join Date
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    DE-spec E36 328i/M3 cab
    That came out great.

    That sticky rubber stuff must have been one of the baddest choices for trim finishing, specially interior parts that gets touched. Yeah it looks great in brand new cars, but then the sh*t begins.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiί III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

    IG:
    https://www.instagram.com/iflok/



  12. #37
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    May 2015
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    U S A
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    yay
    Awesome work. Did you use the SEM or plastidip?
    CARS
    02.92 325is / 06.72 2002 / 02.91 XJ / 08.04 R53 JCW



  13. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    508
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    E36 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by xxxxxxx View Post
    Awesome work. Did you use the SEM or plastidip?
    I actually tried both - but what you see and what I liked best and looked most like the origional part was the plasti-dip. Just make sure the parts are scuffed with 220grit and clean first.

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    USA
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    BMW M3
    Depending on the heat and sunlight exposure they will deteriorate sooner or later, so this fix will be a must.
    Thanks for sharing.

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    NH, USA
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    18
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    1998 BMW M3 Coupe
    Re-resurrecting this ancient thread because I'm also here. Mine have devolved into a sticky mess. Going to see if I can get them recovered in vinyl.

    The reason for my post is that all but one person here talks about prying these out. Do not do that, even if the other are saying that "those cracking sounds you hear are normal, nothing is actually cracking".

    They slide sideways out towards the middle of the car. Pull one seatback down and slide the piece out. You might need to make sure the leather/cloth isn't binding, but they come out reasonably easily (though your hands will be covered in sticky residue). Then raise that seat back up, lower the other and repeat.
    Last edited by trymes; 02-17-2023 at 09:41 PM.

  16. #41
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    Jan 2003
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    USA
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    BMW M3
    Quote Originally Posted by brianc View Post
    ok I finally refurbed mine. I hate repairing or refurbing parts I'd much rather buy new but there was no choice here. It came out excellent - like new.
    The old soft-touch rubberized gunk came off with my bare hands and some IPA. I just rubbed it off. Once completely cleaned off you will have the off-white plastic pieces. Sand them down to scuff them up a little and repaint them w/ something like SEM or Plasti-Dip textured coating.

    https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39853-Tex...omotive&sr=1-1
    https://www.amazon.com/Plasti-Dip-Mu...omotive&sr=1-6
    How is the textured coating holding?

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    NH, USA
    Posts
    18
    My Cars
    1998 BMW M3 Coupe
    I just got mine back from our local auto upholstery shop (AutoOne in Portsmouth, NH). Recovered in vinyl, and as always, he has done an excellent job with them. Very happy with the result, and it shouldn’t turn into a sticky mess again. These look OEM quality or better, IMHO.

    F34DBF19-D207-438B-9A0F-905CC51A7030.jpgF953B250-6745-4466-8C86-7FD6510353C5.jpg

  18. #43
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    Jan 2010
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    San Diego, CA, USA
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    635
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    1996 328i, 2001 740iL
    Quote Originally Posted by trymes View Post
    Re-resurrecting this ancient thread because I'm also here. Mine have devolved into a sticky mess. Going to see if I can get them recovered in vinyl.

    The reason for my post is that all but one person here talks about prying these out. Do not do that, even if the other are saying that "those cracking sounds you hear are normal, nothing is actually cracking".

    They slide sideways out towards the middle of the car. Pull one seatback down and slide the piece out. You might need to make sure the leather/cloth isn't binding, but they come out reasonably easily (though your hands will be covered in sticky residue). Then raise that seat back up, lower the other and repeat.
    Excellent. I will have to try this. These parts on my car are a mess too.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by trymes View Post
    I just got mine back from our local auto upholstery shop (AutoOne in Portsmouth, NH). Recovered in vinyl, and as always, he has done an excellent job with them. Very happy with the result, and it shouldn’t turn into a sticky mess again. These look OEM quality or better, IMHO.

    F34DBF19-D207-438B-9A0F-905CC51A7030.jpgF953B250-6745-4466-8C86-7FD6510353C5.jpg
    This looks great!

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