very good write up thanks alot your just on time I was going to do mine within the next month or so
Just finished doing this, the top was the hardest to get in, the sides were moderate, and the bottom was a snap. I put both the sides in at first, and then couldn't get the top to go in so I took one of the sides out again and then the top went in with a little grunting and pushing. Took about an hour overall.
I've been watching my rear rubber trim disintegrate and look pretty crusty over the last few years, and never had a clue how to replace it. I got my windshield changed a few years ago; I asked them and they told me I had to replace the whole rear window to replace that trim! Ha!
This should be added to the DIY section on the E36 home page, mods can we get this put there? If you think it should be added too, show your support and post a note so this won't disappear somewhere in the E36 section.
Last edited by jereisluke; 01-06-2012 at 09:13 PM.
Very cool. Thanks for the write up. It's one of the items on my list.
its called roof edge moulding. ECS has it for the coupe
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S52_3.2l/ES77728/
they have the rear trim for cheap
http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-S52_3.2l/ES92826/
Last edited by 318bud; 01-06-2012 at 11:15 PM.
So the seal for the coupe is one piece of rubber that goes along the top and sides... i'm assuming the process to get it in is the same it just takes a little more prior planning to make sure that its properly lined up?
Also was the new trim you bought very flexible? I dont know what is brittle rubber and what is hard ABS.
The rear window trim I did is rubber with a thin metal core. Flexible, but could be bent out of shape with too much force.
Maybe someone can answer the question on the coupe sides, I'm not familiar with coupes as I have only had sedans.
I did my coupe, it works fine, just pull out the old one and push in the new one. See my project thread for details.
Hi Guys
Does anybody know how to change that little window at the rear passenger doors?
Forgot 2 mention its a 4door E36.
Last edited by Adrian325ie36; 07-05-2012 at 05:06 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Thanks for the post. Just replaced the rear windshield moulding on my 2000 540i. Has been bad for couple years (corners rotted and broke off). Multiple dealers/glass guys told me would have to replace the glass! Saw this post and gave me confidence to DIY. Bought part on-line for $40 and it was WAY EASY. E39 works exactly same way. Took me 20 minutes start to finish most of which was spent cleaning out the channels. Bottom strip is in good shape so did not mess with it (i.e. ends underlap side strips so protected). Windex to lube was great idea although probably could have done it dry it went in that easy. Looks like new.
Anyone have experience replacing the FRONT windshield trim (looks to be similar piece and process to back) and/or the large rubber piece that sits a base of windshield? Base piece secured by 8 skrews and couple clips to cabin filter units (pretty simple) and looks like have to remove the wiper arms - how difficult is it to remove/replace the wiper arms?
Thanks for posting this, it's given me the motivation to do this on our 95 318ia. The one on ours looks like garbage, just awful. As soon as I finish the steering coupler and second trans service, the trim pieces are next on the assembly line for replacement. I don't like the parts to gather too heavy on the bench. Again, thank you!
regards
I replaced the hood cowl (large rubber/plastic piece at base of windshield) a year ago. It's not too bad, the wiper arms were stuck on there pretty good tho, so I had to rock them back and forth and pry them off. Make sure the arms go back on the same position before you tighten the bolt, or you'll have to take them off again. Before you remove them, use a pen and mark the location on the arm and the stub the arm sits on.
The rubber is connected to the larger plastic piece. Take a look at this link:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/cata...g11.htm#item43
Altho I just noticed the sedan hood cowl is 2 pieces, left and right, but still with the rubber connected to the rest. Mine was the coupe cowl, which is all one piece.
Cool, thanks! I didn't see a separate gasket, but mine has fallen apart so I couldn't tell
For some reason the prior owner decided to take out the corners of the rear window seal -- for reasons I will never quite understand. Why in the world would they do this????
Look at these pics! Maybe they gave up trying to fit it? Anyway, this thread has given me confidence to tackle this project myself. I have oodles of plastic bodywork tools so I think I should be good to go.
1988 911 TURBO / GUARDS RED / Concours Queen 61K miles
2006 CAYMAN S / GUARDS RED / Daily Driver 45K miles
2005 M3 COUPE / PHOENIX YELLOW / Concours Queen 18K miles
1997 M3 SEDAN / HELLROT / Perfection Project 56K miles
"There Is No Substitute."
"The Ultimate Driving Machine."
Is there a quality aftermarket version of the trim? Looks like prices for original have gone up significantly.
So the talk on this thread made me confident I could bang this job out easily, but I was wrong. I ended up getting the piece stuck in one of the top corners, it wouldn't go in, wrestled with it for over an hour. When trying to remove it I broke it. I believe it got stuck because I was working from the two top corners toward the middle. But honestly, I have no idea why. It went in super easily after it broke, and from what I could tell I wasn't doing anything differently. See below:
img-3995.jpg
Yes: the coupe seal is a continuous piece from the two sides and the top. The lower piece beneath the trunk lid is separate. Keep in mind the coupe seal has metal embeded within the rubber EXCEPT at the corners, where it is susceptible to breaking.
img-3996.jpg
Recommended install procedure: start at one top corner, make sure it is snuggly aligned in both axes (side to side, up and down) before installing any more of the seal. Work in two directions, out from this point, toward both ends of the seal.
The seal needs to be rolled into place, when it goes, it goes fairly easily. When it gets stuck, it seems nearly impossible.
Needless to say, be careful with screwdrivers and pliers around the edge of the glass! Getting the old seal out was also kind of scary, it was really seated in there. I trimmed some of the thin part away so I could move the metal C channel directly back from the glass before pulling up.
img-3991.jpg
This was one of trickier procedures I have done on this car to date, and I consider myself fairly competent with this stuff.
Hopefully yours goes better
Last edited by 35nhma; 02-07-2024 at 01:44 AM.
[ US spec 10/1995 e36 m3 ]
….and use a temporary lubricant such as P-80 Emulsion
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