OK so very busy past couple of weekends with non car stuff, mainly waiting on some more parts.
Got the car on 4 wheels at least to make it easier to move around and not fork lift the pretty white belly.
Zach's buddy had a oil baffle laying around, and another one that was traced. Not sure which design to go with, but decided even with a low g low hp car its nice to have a larger baffle. over engineer is always ok. But it's not mine so gotta make it..
Metricmechanics style one first
probably enough but this one makes me sleep better
pop the grommets and old tac out
time to make the larger one, probably won't run a trap door but just some slits instead...
almost time for front subframe powder coat, but will need zach to weld these reinforcements on first.
hmmmm probably need to put some new clutchpacks in the diff.....
VW part # 533 201 511A Anyone know where I can get one? Everywhere is discon...
Hope the pictars aren't boggin ya down.
So still have these holes on both sides at the boxed steel that the spring perch welds to. Gotta take care of that, and seal off the rusted out hole the vent hosing once passed through. Got a rollover valve and braided line that will run to trunk instead.
You know the routine...
Other side as well. Lots of pressure against those perches..
Took some crazy heavy doo doo out of the trunk floor
probably a 50lb porcelain smasher.
Old tube not long enough to make it past the trunk threshold.. no rubbing allowed here..
Gotcha
It will make sense later...
Mr. Diff, your clutchpacks... ya blew it
^^ during reinstall, this spring plate makes you wonder why the cover doesn't sit flush... Torque the bolts silly!
Old/New
Old/New oil seals for side covers
Almost time for the front of the car......
Old clutch packs don't look that bad. That has been my experience as well; a few thousandths off but otherwise ok. Make sure that you check the torque when it's all back together, the SE30 rules are very tight! I typically ditch those allen head bolts, because the torque is high, and the locktite, next time you have to take them off, a hex will cause much less swearing.
Last edited by Proctor750; 01-30-2012 at 03:55 PM.
I'm very impressed with your build progress and it looks like you are doing things the right way! Despite what Nate says, I wouldn't worry about changing out your fuel tank. Plenty of people run the the early tank without starvation issues. If you have problems with your tank and you need to replace because it's rusty or something, then by all means upgrade to the newer style and larger tank. You can buy brand new at Autozone for ~$200. Jim Levie runs an early tank with a second high pressure pump on the driver side. Details are somewhere on SpecE30.com and that might be the hot ticket if you experience starvation. From the looks of your build, your car shouldn't be heavy and starting with a full tank of fuel will be the hot setup!
Great Job!!! G
Wow, so much work. You put as much effort into winning the war against rust as I'll do building my whole car.
Ha! Don't listen to me, I am a complete noob. :-)
Well progress wont regain until march. Due to I use the shop at work after hours. AND... I backed into a door and got grounded... We have a new system on the doors that close when 60 sec's hits. I suppose I was a second too late backing out and couldnt see the door closing in my rear view mirror until it collided. Luckly it was my personal car (E34 touring) and no damage was done to my car but the door needed a little persuasion. But we'll be back on full force, finishing up the fuel system, then its to the front half
Hey ranger, this is zach. Riches buddy from the track. Oh, and Scott, sorry to hear about the car.
P.S. You much get the black out of rusty metal or it will come back.
I agree with a low then high pressure fuel pump set up. A lot of high power cars are preferred to be set up this way. With proper pluming, starvation shouldn't be an issue.
Last edited by Yahweh; 02-15-2012 at 09:16 PM.
Quality BMW service "street, track, race"?
Email: ZakspeedRacer@gmail.com
1999 BMW 318Ti/M Hellrot Msport DD/Fun car
1/2 1987 BMW 325is/M Future Spec e30 (track prep'd)
1994 530It/A Alpinewise III Traded out
1988 BMW 325ix/M Diamond Schwartz Recently sold :/
1986 BMW 325e/m Bronzit Beige Metallic
Get Involved!
www.bluegrassbimmers.org
OKI BMW Facebook group
BMWCCA Member# 436428
TOOLEAN,
Will you be at the bluegrass vs buckeye karting event this weekend?
Quality BMW service "street, track, race"?
Email: ZakspeedRacer@gmail.com
1999 BMW 318Ti/M Hellrot Msport DD/Fun car
1/2 1987 BMW 325is/M Future Spec e30 (track prep'd)
1994 530It/A Alpinewise III Traded out
1988 BMW 325ix/M Diamond Schwartz Recently sold :/
1986 BMW 325e/m Bronzit Beige Metallic
Get Involved!
www.bluegrassbimmers.org
OKI BMW Facebook group
BMWCCA Member# 436428
Yes I will! See you there!
Bye Bye Buckeyes!
Quality BMW service "street, track, race"?
Email: ZakspeedRacer@gmail.com
1999 BMW 318Ti/M Hellrot Msport DD/Fun car
1/2 1987 BMW 325is/M Future Spec e30 (track prep'd)
1994 530It/A Alpinewise III Traded out
1988 BMW 325ix/M Diamond Schwartz Recently sold :/
1986 BMW 325e/m Bronzit Beige Metallic
Get Involved!
www.bluegrassbimmers.org
OKI BMW Facebook group
BMWCCA Member# 436428
Possibly, We are defiantly working getting it there for Oktoberfest!
But would like some seat time in it before hand and Putnum would be a perfect track.
Quality BMW service "street, track, race"?
Email: ZakspeedRacer@gmail.com
1999 BMW 318Ti/M Hellrot Msport DD/Fun car
1/2 1987 BMW 325is/M Future Spec e30 (track prep'd)
1994 530It/A Alpinewise III Traded out
1988 BMW 325ix/M Diamond Schwartz Recently sold :/
1986 BMW 325e/m Bronzit Beige Metallic
Get Involved!
www.bluegrassbimmers.org
OKI BMW Facebook group
BMWCCA Member# 436428
Back in business.....
Tank is finally back in the car...
Need a reducer on the feed line.......
...because of the accumulator barb size..
Another reducer for vent line (bought wrong size from jegs)...
Had to cut another section of vent line from another car and mate the two with reducer...
Our patented extended tube...
Off it goes under the seat pan......
and out it comes in the trunk to where it will be mounted to a rollover valve...
Having accumulator means either mounting it above the trailing arm.... or moving your filter to the front of the car (legal btw)
we opted to do the latter, had to pull some more rubber rings to mount ex pump where filter used to be, and flip 180....
should go like..
Needed to clean rusty bracket to hold them both...
Using Zach's new toy.....
Fantastic!
ok...
success!
Filler neck/hose in... (need to rethink the cross support on trailing arm, possibly make a u shape piece to weld in for more hose clearance...)
Lunch:
Where did my egg go, it just slipped off the back of the skillet job...
!?!?!?!?!?!............
Vapor Trail!!
One of the most useful tools we have....
It's called the "Staude Tool" named after a friend who I took it from, and he sold his M30 E30 to move to colorado. Never getting it back.
Gotta get that trunk cleaned for paint!
What is this some kind of important piece of sheetmetal to secure a battery above?..
see ya
Floor tabs....
Back to that trunk cubby floor...
Zach blowing his elbows out...
quick outside patch.....
Looking better...
The hardest piece we have made yet....but worth it
Oh Yes
Yes
Perfect
You wouldn't think we have worked almost 26 hours since Friday afternoon to accomplish these few pictures....
That's more than half most peoples work week
More next weekend I think
Nice battery tray fix!
OK out with the old allen heads for diff
torque to 25lbs with locktite
need to run an expansion tube for breather. Always tap a pilot before you drill
Looking good
sides..
rear seal, don't forget
Remember our AKG subframe bushings are upside down for 5mm closer to body. Need to space the diff down.
a few more small things in the rear and it will be time for the front!
wave bye to the boss on the way out.....
Out of weld gas so we turn attention elsewhere...
back to the sand blaster with exhaust manifolds I just pulled off.
some ceramic paint and back in the car with new gaskets and hardware
now attention is on the front of the car, time to drop our subframe, and put a spare one in while we weld reinforcements and have it powder coated like the rear...
The reinforcements will need some trimming and bending, not pictured is the opposite side reinforcement from akg that we had to bend and shape.
had to cut through ball joint stud on control arm to get it off car, then again to remove it from subframe...
pulled front calipers for a rebuild as well
pistons don't look good, I sourced some more from another set of calipers, will post later during rebuild. still waiting on kit.
so much fun
old flange had a ball of yarn as a quibo.... zach replaced the seals, we will be putting in delrin bushing and a few other tricks to stiffen the shifting up. already have the z3 shifter which I melted rubber out and re assembled with jb weld to bring the shifter height in cabin up a bit more.
that's it until next week.
Oh just found these 5 min ago next to door
Last edited by Proctor750; 04-09-2012 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Subframe reinforcements in, off to powder coat to match rear.
New caliper pistons and repair kit
Here's whats in your crank case
rebuilt rack now has tie rods and lines
pop the old monroe's out.....
ahh yes.....
waiting on more parts and subframe.
You'd never guess..........
Nice job man. Glad you did the fuel accumulator, saw another SE30 starving at Mid Ohio this weekend, it sucks. Are you running power steering?? Don't forget to run a vent hose to the trans breather, otherwise it will puke a little on track. Also, the bracket holding the coil onto the passenger fender tends to fail, letting the coil drop on the headers and then it will completely melt your wiring harness. So just and another weld or sheet metal screw.
That sandblasting booth looks like your greatest asset! Envious!
OK battery box
We have breather tube route, but still need a 90 degree on top of the rollover for the turn.
will have remaining hose exit in one of the 2 holes with crowns where the sunroof drain goes...
need a tab for mounting the hose like a toilet U to trap anything that could have made it past the rollover before going to vent
what to expect more of...
front lines now
baffle welded in
Their oil separator........
No kidding, I think he picked it up at harbor freight for around $200. Needs some assistance of a shop vac through a rag in the side to help keep particulate from getting everywhere, but otherwise it feels naughty using one on anything you want.
We have holes drilled for trans and diff vents, good point. I still want to take that transfer tube on the gas tank out and see if it is plugged.
Good Idea with reinforcing the coil bracket! I will do that next.
Last edited by Proctor750; 04-24-2012 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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