Electrics are not one of my strong suits when working on cars. My brake lights flat out do not work. Not a single one of them and I havent the faintest idea where to start looking. Yes the bulbs are fine. I need some help here. Thanks in advance
The brake light switch is under the brake pedal, and activated when the pedal contacts it. They can go bad or be maladjusted.
John in VA
BMW CCA member
National Capital Chapter
'74 tii "Juanita"
'85 535i "Goldie"
'86 535i "M-POSSTR"
'00 328i "Fern"
'03 530i "Titan"
x2 on the switch. They go bad (little plastic parts break off) They cost about $10 at the local part store.
Black on Black 740i - 10/92 build date, 225,000 miles.
Delphin on Cherry 533i - 4/84 build date, 136,000 miles
Black on Black 328i - 3/96 build date, 185,000 miles - Sold
2008 Porsche Cayenne GTS
hrmm Ill check that now
so I replaced the brake light switch. The third brake light works now but the two in the actual assembly do not. All the bulbs are new. And all the other lights in the assembly work. The tails the signals and reverse lights all work. Im stumped... halp please.
Make sure you use bulbs with the silver base not brass. Clean all contacts in the bulb holder and where the tabs contact the tail light housing.
Jimmy Moreno
BMW CCA 115551
1986 535i, Arctic Blue
2012 X5 XDrive 501, Sparkling Bronze Metallic
Ya my taillights went rogue and then started working and it always has since and it been two years!
So, do you live anywhere near an ocean ??? As I recall, Long Island is surrounded by salt water. Salt air is known to accelerate corrosion problems. E28 lights with Those Funky Bulb Holders tend to have poor contact anyway, but it can be remedied.
jimoreno: you are absolutely correct- find and replace any bulbs with a brass base, there should be nothing but nickel (silver color) in there.
znmiller: right on, wiggling and banging are great techniques in fixing electrical gremlins! I am serious, I've gotten out of tickets for defective lights that way!!! Seriously, corrosion and weak contacts can usually be found by strategic 'wiggling'.
Here's a more 'elegant' approach to these suggestions:
When you close the brake light switch (short wires, or gently wedge the brake pedal down with a 'calibrated stick' between pedal and front seat), you will get constant voltage at the lights. Key to 1st click, of course.
If the other lights are working, you have a good ground, since all rear lighting shares the same ground wire (to tighten, look under the rear seat bottom cushion, left side, brown wires).
Since the center brake light works, you know the switch is good.
Here's an easy test for individual bulb contact at the lights, best done in a dark garage or at night:
1-- remove panel in trunk to expose lights
2-- apply voltage to brake lights (either method above)
3-- reach into trunk, grab hold of white plastic brake light socket, and push it in against the light while turning back and forth (bottom outboard sockets)
4-- watch the light for flickering output which indicates bad contact area
5-- if you find a good spot while turning, giving brightest output, you can leave it there if it's 'good enough for now'
6-- another tip- remove bulb socket, bend the contact tabs up slightly, and clean up the areas (an ink eraser makes a good fine abrasive; avoid sandpaper and steel wool) where they make contact before reinstalling. A dab of petrolatum jelly, lip balm or vaseline, wouldn't hurt, either, to keep that salt air at bay.
7-- another tip- unplug / replug both light and check panel relay connectors (below the trunk latch, left side) to displace surface corrosion
8-- consider using high output bubs in at least tail and brake lights (I have these if you want - 34% brighter in brakes/ turns/ reverse, 150% brighter in tails)
9-- consider adding a second brake and tail light bulb on each side for bigger, brighter, and redundant lighting (I can help here, too).
Good luck, let us know when you get it all working as designed!
Andy
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt"!
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E9, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39
Tail Light restoration and upgrades keep them off your tail
Headlight protection film keeps lights intact and forward view clear
The problem is the metal contacts. There is too much corrosion and it is not allowing the electricity to flow. I tried soldering a wire from the side of the bulb holder directly to the exposed circuit but cant seem to get the solder to adhere to the circuit. Im gonna order new bulb holders see if that remedies it. That or just new tail assemblies. I really dont wanna spend the money on a cheap winter beater. But if I can get new assemblies cheap enough......
I have a good set of tail lights with extra set of either brake lights or tail lights. For 40 each or 70 for both plus shipping.
Andy
I hate to even ask but have you pulled and reset your fuses?
My e46 is for sale!
I keep ending up buying more and more parts from you.
Yes that was the first thing I did. I figured out the problem now. Its corrosion around the bulb holder connections. I soldered some wires directly from the holder to the exposed circuit which worked....for all of 5 seconds til the crappy solder gave way. I think I need a new iron.
Whoa! looks like a mad scientist is in the house! Actually, very tidy job for what it is.
But hey- if it works, it works!! I bet there's some good voltage to those bulbs, looks like you solved the major complaint about E28 lights.
Have you ever considered high output bulbs ?? Now THAT would be a sight to see. (they're on sale ...)
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt"!
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E9, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39
Tail Light restoration and upgrades keep them off your tail
Headlight protection film keeps lights intact and forward view clear
P3496/3497 High Output 27 W bulbs ($5 each, sale $4 each)
Krypton gas filled, tungsten filament;
Nickel (silver) base, per BMW requirement;
Dual (3496) or Single (3497) filament;
45 cp output, or 35% brighter in brake, turn signal, or reverse lights.
For reference, stock is 25 W, 32 cp WHEN NEW, lower when old and darkened from use.
R10W (5008) High Output 10W bulbs ($2 each)
Inert gas filled, tungsten filament;
Nickel (silver) base, per BMW requirement;
Single filament;
10 cp output, or 150% brighter in tail lights.
For reference, stock is 5 W, 4 cp WHEN NEW, lower when old and darkened from use.
796 Extreme High Output 35W bulbs ($7 each, special order)
Halogen gas filled, tungsten filament;
Nickel (silver) base, per BMW requirement;
Single filament;
74 cp output, or 130% brighter in brake, turn signal, or reverse lights.
These are the bulbs I use in all my tail light upgrade kits, it's an easy way to quickly increase light output to at least try to be noticed among newer cars and trucks.
'Veteran's Day' Sale going on right now through Sunday after Thanksgiving (11/27). Posted over on mye28, so offer is good here too!
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt"!
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E9, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39
Tail Light restoration and upgrades keep them off your tail
Headlight protection film keeps lights intact and forward view clear
have you used dialectric grease in the past?
Yes, good stuff. Anyone else have comments on this?
"Be Seen, and Not Hurt"!
Lighting Upgrades for 2002, E3, E9, E12, E21, E23, E24, E28, E30, E32, E36, E39
Tail Light restoration and upgrades keep them off your tail
Headlight protection film keeps lights intact and forward view clear
Something that is di-electric is an insulator. Dielectric grease doesn't increase conductivity, but it can help prevent corrosion by physically covering the metal, preventing water and oxygen from reaching the connections. In short, it won't hurt and it might help.
Check your taillight gaskets while you're back there. My lenses used to regularly fill up with water.
I'm way back at the brake light switch under the pedal. Where exactly is it? E39 540i 2000
You're in the E28 section, but this might help: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...cement-(Video)
John in VA
BMW CCA member
National Capital Chapter
'74 tii "Juanita"
'85 535i "Goldie"
'86 535i "M-POSSTR"
'00 328i "Fern"
'03 530i "Titan"
I was cruising down the road today in my 1990 e30 (in immaculate shape, I might add) and the brake light on the heads up panel illuminated. I got home without being rear-ended, and pulled into the garage and shut the door. Stepped on the brake pedal, and no lights reflected on the garage door. I check all fuses under the hood, and all looked fine. I removed the kick panel and removed the connector to the brake pedal switch and shorted the female pins with a paperclip. No lights. Turned key on. shorted and lights came on. Turned key off. Left switch in place and decided to put car back together and would order part tonight. No plans on driving the little Bimmer until the part arrived... but I noticed after I reconnected the cable assembly to the brake pedal switch, the brake lights now work.
Who said there wasn't a Bimmer God???
Anyone know the part number of the switch I need before the Gods get angry again?
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