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Thread: DIY 2001 E38 M62TU Timing chain tensioner replacement

  1. #1
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    DIY 2001 E38 M62TU Timing chain tensioner replacement

    Symtoms were a deisel-like rattle on startup after sitting for a few hours.

    Tools needed



    Part needed



    To begin, you will need to remove the airbox. Unclip the 4 clips and loosen the hose clamp to remove the lid of the airbox. Is this step needed? Probably not, but I did it anyway.

    Using your 3/8 ratchet with a 10mm socket, go ahead and remove the bolt.

    Next you will need to loosen the hose clamp to the top hose going into the box. There is no need to loosen the bottom hose (can't be seen in the pictures, but it is directly below the top hose), as that hose will simply pull out with the box.



    Now you will need to disconnect the maf from the box. Using your screwdriver, you simply pry the two clamps loose. Now you can pull the air box completely out to give a little more working room.



    Once the airbox is out of the way you will be able to see the tensioner bolt. It is kinda tucked up and out of site, but you will be able to see it directly below and behind the coolant line.




    Using your 3/8" ratchet with the 3" extension and 19mm socket remove the bolt that holds the tensioner in place. Once you remove the tensioner, a little oil will drain out. Not alot, maybe a teaspoon full, just clean up with a rag.



    Here is the new tensioner compared to the old. The spring in the new tensioner is longer but not as stiff as the old spring. As you can see, the new tensioner with the longer spring is almost an inch longer than the old. Will it work? We shall find out soon...




    Now I tried to install the tensioner without compressing the spring and let's just say...uh uh, ain't gonna work like that. There just isn't enough room to contort your hand into position to be able to push the tensioner in and thread it in at the same time. So, while pushing the piston down into the body of the tensioner, I used a tiny flat head screwdriver to push down on the retaining clip. This locks the clip into a recessed edge inside the body which, in turn, holds the piston in place. Doing this made installation so much more simpler.



    Once the piston is locked into place just insert it into the vacant hole and thread back in.



    I'm not sure on the torque specs, but breaking the old one loose didn't require too much effort and I didn't notice any oil residue so, I just made sure that the new one was good and snug.

    Now you just replace the airbox and lid and you are good to go. Upon startup, you will notice a little rattle and clatter but it goes away after a few seconds. I will post back later to let you know if this took care of the rattle on startup.
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  2. #2
    Jaaap is offline ☀ ☁ ☂ ☃ ☏ ☠ ☢ ☣ ♕ ♫ ✂
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    Great job and nice writeup!

    Quote Originally Posted by jblindy View Post
    ... while pushing the piston down into the body of the tensioner, I used a tiny flat head screwdriver to push down on the retaining clip. This locks the clip into a recessed edge inside the body which, in turn, holds the piston in place. Doing this made installation so much more simpler.
    I don't understand.
    How did you "unclip" the piston once the tensioner was in place?

  3. #3
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    The oil pressure, once the engine starts forces the piston out. The clip is only there to aid assembly.

    I just did this on mine today. I see you also played with the piston (pressed it in) and made the clip disengage. I did the same. Thing is mine didnt come with the compression washer. After riding the motorcycle all over hitting up almost every store I just came home and tacked the job. Just reused the original washer.

    This was so damn easy if I ever have to do this again Im going to have my 6y/o son do it. Blindfolded. Hopped up on a 6 pack of Mountain dew.

    Factory torque is 22Nm. I probably did mine to about 30Nm. With my clicking torque wrist.
    My car is monogrammed.

    I have gone to find myself. If I get back before I return, keep me here.

    I know what Im doing. If you are unsure if I know what Im doing..dont worry about it. If I dont know what Im doing Ill ask someone who does. Thats probably not you.

  4. #4
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    very nice write up, very clear too, seen one before on e38.org but still good to have it with pictures on an e38

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaaap View Post
    I don't understand.
    How did you "unclip" the piston once the tensioner was in place?






    Quote Originally Posted by Kudagra View Post
    This was so damn easy if I ever have to do this again Im going to have my 6y/o son do it. Blindfolded. Hopped up on a 6 pack of Mountain dew.

    Factory torque is 22Nm. I probably did mine to about 30Nm. With my clicking torque wrist.
    Yes this is a very easy task. Most of my time was taking pictures to get the best angles to convey what needed to be done. And LMAO on the torque wrist. I have one of those too, only it isn't calibrated very well.
    Last edited by jblindy; 10-22-2011 at 08:51 PM.
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  6. #6
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    very well written DIY, OP!

    thanks for it

    I do hear a minor rattle at 171k on my motor.......maybe i ll do it too.......but i'd have to treat the other bimmer to a new tensioner before the 7 gets one

  7. #7
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    Did the tensioner make a loud WHACK when you started the engine? Not a sound I'd like to hear twice. BTW the factory torque is 40nm.

  8. #8
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    You can get the tensioner in when uncompressed.

    It won't solve the sounds after a few hours, only the overnight rattle

    Here a video of the sound after tensioner is replaced

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJeKFq3Bgac[/ame]

    Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01sport View Post
    Did the tensioner make a loud WHACK when you started the engine? Not a sound I'd like to hear twice. BTW the factory torque is 40nm.

    That torque is only for in California. Everyone else does it different.
    My car is monogrammed.

    I have gone to find myself. If I get back before I return, keep me here.

    I know what Im doing. If you are unsure if I know what Im doing..dont worry about it. If I dont know what Im doing Ill ask someone who does. Thats probably not you.

  10. #10
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    All I had was a rattle on start-up after the car had been sitting for a few or more hours. Once the initial chatter went away, usually just a second or two, she ran as smooth as a top.
    The initial impression is that the rattle on start-up is gone. I'll give it a few more days and report back then.
    I ordered a few oil filters so she will be getting an oil change next week. Hopefully, I'll be able to tackle the dead pixel issue next week too.
    Then I need to do a few miscellaneous things to my wifes car, then it will be back to my car.

    Does anybody have an idea that they can share on this thread?
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1732817


    Last edited by jblindy; 10-23-2011 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jblindy View Post
    All I had was a rattle on start-up after the car had been sitting for a few or more hours. Once the initial chatter went away, usually just a second or two, she ran as smooth as a top.
    The initial impression is that the rattle on start-up is gone. I'll give it a few more days and report back then.
    I ordered a few oil filters so she will be getting an oil change next week. Hopefully, I'll be able to tackle the dead pixel issue next week too.
    Then I need to do a few miscellaneous things to my wifes car, then it will be back to my car.

    Does anybody have an idea that they can share on this thread?
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1732817


    Check my reply, basically you can't go off the RealOem pic

  12. #12
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    Have To Say Just replaced The Timing Chain Tensioner And The car 2001 740iL 65,980. miles Starts Up As Quite As A Churches Mouse On A Sunday Morning....I Would Have To Think That The Chain Slapping Around Like That At Start Up Could Be Banging Into To The Guides And Causing Some Of The Early Damage. I did Have The Pan Pulled Looked Good Installed BMW 5w/30 Will See If It Also Quites Down The VANOS A Little.
    Carmen

  13. #13
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    i couldnt find this thread earlier..

    ..so its a simple install i see....

    unbox new tensioner, and install COMPRESSED ...the engine will unlock the retaining clip...

    thats it?...
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  14. #14
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    Where did you get the part from? cost? I don't remember replacing that part when I did the chain guides a 2 years ago...hmmm...

    ....how do you know if the part has failed?
    Last edited by dazednkenfused; 08-22-2012 at 03:17 PM.



    '99 740iL "illest 7" | 16:9 NAV w/ MKIV | Bluetooth | Maintronic CP600BMW MP3 | Porn Lights | LEDs in & out | BMW Style 101 | Stanced - Hellaflush offset & slammed | AirREX Stage 3 air suspension | NEX BBK 6 pot 355mm front, 4 pot 350mm rear | custom intake & exhaust | steptronic conversion | AC Schnizter front lip & roof spoiler


  15. #15
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    Note to self.....Next up....replace chain tensioner.
    Kooljess 2001 740i Sport (Society of 7's) (OO=[][]=OO)
    http://www.wix.com/oppasbimmer/society-of-7

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nyc Dito View Post
    i couldnt find this thread earlier..

    ..so its a simple install i see....

    unbox new tensioner, and install COMPRESSED ...the engine will unlock the retaining clip...

    thats it?...
    yes, that is correct...oil pressure will unlock the clip
    -Rich-


  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
    yes, that is correct...oil pressure will unlock the clip
    thanks , that's what i needed to make sure about...
    E70 LCI 35d
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  18. #18
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    Not sure if mines been replaced or not, might just do it for preventative maintenance since i had alot of miles on my car.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by M I C H A E L View Post
    Not sure if mines been replaced or not, might just do it for preventative maintenance since i had alot of miles on my car.

    I'm thinking the same thing.

    From OEM Bimmer Parts:
    http://www.oembimmerparts.com/produc...7531813e38.htm



    '99 740iL "illest 7" | 16:9 NAV w/ MKIV | Bluetooth | Maintronic CP600BMW MP3 | Porn Lights | LEDs in & out | BMW Style 101 | Stanced - Hellaflush offset & slammed | AirREX Stage 3 air suspension | NEX BBK 6 pot 355mm front, 4 pot 350mm rear | custom intake & exhaust | steptronic conversion | AC Schnizter front lip & roof spoiler


  20. #20
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    Yep thats the one, cheap quick fix too, even though I dont have startup issue, im sure its fine, and had to of been replaced at some point, its my best guess, but, like i said i still want to change it out..m im very anal about my car.

  21. #21
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    My new tensioner didn't come with a threaded cap. Am I good to re-use the old one with a new crush washer?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjc034 View Post
    My new tensioner didn't come with a threaded cap. Am I good to re-use the old one with a new crush washer?

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Yes

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by kouks View Post
    Yes
    Thanks!

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    Bill - things have changed and I don't know how to P.M. you -

    Hope you see this -

    Your package went out today via U.S.P.S. -

    The tracking number is: 9405511899560254261691

    Sorry this took so long but the Dinan item was not

    where I thought it was -

    As your 7 is certified the item should work with your car -

    But while looking I found a box of the BMW carbon fiber

    writing pens like the one I sent you for your flight suit -

    Have you told your wife today how much you love her -

    I enclosed one of these pens for your wife -

    Enjoy - I do


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  25. #25
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    I did this last week as well. For what it's worth, it isn't too tough to put the tensioner back in its 'uncompressed' form. A bit of force, but nothing that can't be done with some patience and 5-10 minutes.
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