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Thread: E36 No crank, no start but lights on dash work like normal.

  1. #26
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    1995 BMW 325i
    Quote Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
    Quick note--I just went through this with my '97 E36. Radio and headlights worked but wouldn't crank, climate control module was dead, no warning gong, and alarm remote wouldn't lock/unlock doors (just gave warning beeps as if trying to arm the alarm while a door, hood or trunk is still open). Battery was showing 12.3 volts and a jump from another car did not help start it. It turns out my fuse #31 was blown. This 5W fuse powers part of the HVAC, heater core valve, warning gong, OBC/clock, the and the immobilizer (I assume that's EWS).

    I replaced it and car started fine, but fuse blew again 2 days later. Another thread said it could be a shorted component or wire blowing the fuse, and one possible short is the heater valve (controls coolant flow to the two sides of the heater core). Other testing can include unplugging the OBC and unplugging the HVAC module. I unplugged my heater valve and drove all today without blowing fuse 31. If that continues a few days, next step is to replace my heater valve.

    So if your E36 won't start, the OBC/clock and HVAC displays are dead, and your battery has enough voltage, check fuse #31, or whichever one your fuse box says controls both the immobilizer and heater fan. Then carry a few spare 5A fuses until you find out why it blew. If your OBC and HVAC displays are okay, then it's not fuse #31.
    thanks for the fuse 31 check. mine was popped causing my no start. not sure what caused it as I'm all stripped and most wiring deleted. turned key after putting in new MAF hoping it was causing my bad idle problem and nothing when i turned the key.

    wanted to comment for future search results for others!

  2. #27
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    1997 BMW 328is
    ^^ I'm having this exact same issue. The car used to crank no issues (97' 328iS). I went through the fuse box and replaced a few blown fuses and now my accessories are working (lights, horn, wipers etc - they previously were NOT). The aftermath from that would be: lights on dash, gong chime, no sounds/click at start/ no crank.

    Battery is relatively new and I was using another car to jump.

    I'm going to try and do an deeper analysis of everything. Hopefully it's something minor as I would love to start driving her again.

    BUMP for anyone that has information.
    function leads to form

  3. #28
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    1996 BMW E36 328i Coupe
    Hi there. Bumping on a really old thread here in hope for some answers!

    Was gonna take my 328i to a shop for rust welding this weekend after 9 months in the garage and when i turned the key around i had a no crank no start. BUT the starter motor clicked and the lights inside dimmed crazy.
    Changed the battery and then all of a sudden no click from the starter motor either. Just lights working, OBC working, horn working, radio working.

    So this is what ive done so far:
    - Checked the battery for voltage; 12.4V
    - Tried to boost the battery, nothing.
    - Tried to jump start it with cables from another car, nada.
    - Tried to push start it, nothing.
    - Checked the connectors on battery, all fine.
    - Took out the Crash Relay, still nothing.
    - Changed the #31 fuse just for good measures, still nothing.
    - Hammered on the starter, still nothing.

    Its a m52b28, 09/96, so obd2.
    Gonna try to do diagnostics tomorrow to see if anything shows.

    Any ideas guys? I've barely toutched a engine, so im pretty newb at electrical stuff and im wondering if it could be that the key is broken. Dont have a spare either so gotta order a new one if so.
    I also wanna say that it cracked up fine 4 months ago...
    Also, relays... what is actually what here? its all in german so i dont understand anything.

    Please help a engine noob out.

    Edit:
    Found out the ground cable from engine mount to chassie were in really bad shape.
    removed it, cleaned the mounts and put a jumper on just to try.
    Sadly that didnt do anything...
    Last edited by alfh92; 08-16-2016 at 03:56 AM.

  4. #29
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    E39 528i, E36 328i
    I have the same issue with my 97 328i at 145k. Randomly the other day, it won't even crank when I try to start it. All lights and accessories work, including the OBC and HVAC. Battery reads 12.3v and a jump start doesn't help at all. I opened the back of my key and I can see what looks like a bit of corrosion on the chip inside, so I ordered another key because I only have the one anyways. I'll post if it was the key or not when I get it in 2 days.

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36MOB View Post
    I have the same issue with my 97 328i at 145k. Randomly the other day, it won't even crank when I try to start it. All lights and accessories work, including the OBC and HVAC. Battery reads 12.3v and a jump start doesn't help at all. I opened the back of my key and I can see what looks like a bit of corrosion on the chip inside, so I ordered another key because I only have the one anyways. I'll post if it was the key or not when I get it in 2 days.

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
    Did you end up getting another key, and if so did it work? I have the same issue and only one key. Mine is manual though, and I was able to push start it no problem. After starting, it runs as normal. No CEL or other symptoms.

  6. #31
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    Just wanted to bump this with some results. I ordered a new key from BMW last week, it came in today. Stuck it into the ignition and she fired right up (although I did need to boost my battery.) Hope this was helpful! Now I need to tackle a slew of other electrical issues.
    function leads to form

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hacknik View Post
    Just wanted to bump this with some results. I ordered a new key from BMW last week, it came in today. Stuck it into the ignition and she fired right up (although I did need to boost my battery.) Hope this was helpful! Now I need to tackle a slew of other electrical issues.
    Just curious, how much did the new key run you?

    I'm having the same issues. I had my windows down and work and it started to sprinkle so I went outside to roll them up and accidentally left the key turned on. I went to leave for lunch and the car wouldn't start. i tried to jump it and nothing. I ended up pulling the battery and putting it on a battery charger here at work. Once i got off i tried it and all my lights and everything work but the starter wouldn't even click. I thought maybe the battery had a bad cell or something so I took it to Autozone and they tested it and said it was fine. The battery is exactly a year old this month. I put it back in the car and checked the connections at the battery and the connections to the posts under the hood and everything seems very secure. Tried to start it and same thing, fuel pump kicks on, lights work, starter doesn't even click. I've let the car sit for a few weeks now because I just havent had the time or money to deal with it since school started back up with my kids. I checked it out yesterday and I have the same issues. I grabbed a meter from the shop and I'm at 11.7v at the battery, 11.7v at the posts, 11.4 volts at the relays, and 11.2-11.4v at the fuses. i checked all the fuses listed in this thread and they all appear to be perfectly fine. i even tried to push start the car across the parking lot and had no luck..

    1996 318i manual.

  8. #33
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    Check out if fuse 31 is blown. It powers the heater valve, clock, warning chime, OBC, and something related to the starter or EWS. If it's blown then you can't start the car. Also check whatever fuse and relay power the starter.

  9. #34
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    LivesNearCostco - you are the man! I tried to move my '97 328 this evening to get it out of the way of my wife's 2013 328. Lights were bright but not even a click from starter. I was about to check the clutch pedal switch when I read your post and went back out and checked - No heater control lights! Swapped fuse #31 and heard the chime. Car started.

    Now to see if it blows again - but at least the problem is narrowed down.

    Thanks!

  10. #35
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    Glad to hear you were able to start the car by swapping !the fuse. In my case it was blowing because of a short in the heater control valve. Once I blew it 2 times, I disconnected the heater control valve and it stopped blowing fuse 31. But then I got hot air from the vents all the time! Eventually I replaced the heater control valve

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    1) no it's a 95.
    2) no it s obd2.
    Ok its a 95 on title... I get that... But my car is deff obdl... I have 1 o2 sensor, a 413 silver dme, m50tu. And the cats under the car not on the header downipes, ...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    1) no it's a 95.

    2) no it s obd2.
    I deff have ewsll. Chipped key, ect.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by scramer05 View Post
    Just curious, how much did the new key run you?

    I'm having the same issues. I had my windows down and work and it started to sprinkle so I went outside to roll them up and accidentally left the key turned on. I went to leave for lunch and the car wouldn't start. i tried to jump it and nothing. I ended up pulling the battery and putting it on a battery charger here at work. Once i got off i tried it and all my lights and everything work but the starter wouldn't even click. I thought maybe the battery had a bad cell or something so I took it to Autozone and they tested it and said it was fine. The battery is exactly a year old this month. I put it back in the car and checked the connections at the battery and the connections to the posts under the hood and everything seems very secure. Tried to start it and same thing, fuel pump kicks on, lights work, starter doesn't even click. I've let the car sit for a few weeks now because I just havent had the time or money to deal with it since school started back up with my kids. I checked it out yesterday and I have the same issues. I grabbed a meter from the shop and I'm at 11.7v at the battery, 11.7v at the posts, 11.4 volts at the relays, and 11.2-11.4v at the fuses. i checked all the fuses listed in this thread and they all appear to be perfectly fine. i even tried to push start the car across the parking lot and had no luck..

    1996 318i manual.

    I bought a new key and VOILA! Car started right up.

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by killaM3 View Post
    so it doesnt crank at all right? maybe starter relay..
    hello i have a 97 bmw e36 328is manual trans i have been getting a problem i turn the key and everything electronic works but it doesent crank to start the car and i don't know what it might be starter maybe the guy i bought it from told me that everything it doesent that to put the windows down for like 10 min and it will start and a couple times i tried it and it works but others it doesent

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by felipe97 View Post
    hello i have a 97 bmw e36 328is manual trans i have been getting a problem i turn the key and everything electronic works but it doesent crank to start the car and i don't know what it might be starter maybe the guy i bought it from told me that everything it doesent that to put the windows down for like 10 min and it will start and a couple times i tried it and it works but others it doesent
    What?

  15. #40
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    He's saying if he turns the car the dash lights come on and "everything else" works (presumably that's blower fan, headlights, stereo, power windows, etc.) but the engine doesn't crank. So it's likely not fuel and not spark. It's either starter solenoid, anti-theft system, blown fuse or bad relay, or possibly a loose ground wire or loose positive cable connection at the starter.

    Felipe: check all fuses and relays related to the starter. See if any of the fuses are blown and try swapping the starter relay with an identical relay that does something else for the car. Make sure the OBC, alarm remote, and climate control system can turn on and off--if all 3 of those are out, it's likely it's that common fuse (#30 or #31 I think).

    If you suspect starter solenoid is failing, one option is have someone bang on the starter with a breaker bar or prybar while you try to start the car. If banging on starter solenoid lets you start the car, then time to replace the starter.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by felipe97 View Post
    hello i have a 97 bmw e36 328is manual trans i have been getting a problem i turn the key and everything electronic works but it doesent crank to start the car and i don't know what it might be starter maybe the guy i bought it from told me that everything it doesent that to put the windows down for like 10 min and it will start and a couple times i tried it and it works but others it doesent
    The '98 has a safety switch on the clutch pedal, so I'm pretty sure your '97 does too.
    Tbd

  17. #42
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    Thanks so much for this tip ! Changing fuse 31 with OBC and Climate control not working solved my start issue

    its crazy that BMW puts all this thru the same circuit. EWS should have its own fuse.

    i blew fuse 31 again by putting blower motor on high
    when not in heat mode. Putting heat on didnt blow it So i got some work to do figuring this out.

  18. #43
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    hi i have very same problem with my one every thing working but not cranking i check all fuse starter is good and pump not working

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jereisluke View Post
    I test drove a late 90s E36 323is that wouldn't start unless the clutch was in. Threw me for a loop at first as I thought the car was dead. Then the owner told me I had to push the clutch in.
    FWIW I can confirm. I have a 98 328i with a clutch safety. Again, late production model e36.

  20. #45
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    OBC fuse (#46) was my issue as well. (95 M3) One of the few that supplies the OBC... car fired immediately.
    Last edited by Casebrius; 08-14-2018 at 11:06 AM.
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  21. #46
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    Im dealing with this issue too. I thought my starter was bad since it wasnt spinning or anything but im getting enough power and even with a jump it wouldn't spin the starter and I just replaced it with a Bosch one but im still having the same issue. Any suggestions? Mine is a 93 325i. OBD1.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by mati17 View Post
    hi i have very same problem with my one every thing working but not cranking i check all fuse starter is good and pump not working
    did you ever figure it out?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by LivesNearCostco View Post
    He's saying if he turns the car the dash lights come on and "everything else" works (presumably that's blower fan, headlights, stereo, power windows, etc.) but the engine doesn't crank. So it's likely not fuel and not spark. It's either starter solenoid, anti-theft system, blown fuse or bad relay, or possibly a loose ground wire or loose positive cable connection at the starter.

    Felipe: check all fuses and relays related to the starter. See if any of the fuses are blown and try swapping the starter relay with an identical relay that does something else for the car. Make sure the OBC, alarm remote, and climate control system can turn on and off--if all 3 of those are out, it's likely it's that common fuse (#30 or #31 I think).

    If you suspect starter solenoid is failing, one option is have someone bang on the starter with a breaker bar or prybar while you try to start the car. If banging on starter solenoid lets you start the car, then time to replace the starter.
    Does my car even have a starter relay? It's a 93 325i OBD1. I've been looking everywhere and can't find a starter relay. Im getting good voltage at the ignition switch, and the starter solenoid, the battery is fine. Just replaced the starter but still can't figure out the issue with no cranking.

  22. #47
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  23. #48
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    1995 e36 325i. Ran fine sat for 3 weeks tried to start nothing. No crank and makes a ticking noise from fuse box. Will push start can anyone help me

  24. #49
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    My 1997 328i has a similar issue except mine turns on the fuel pump an all the lights work as normal but still no crank from the starter, I removed the starter an tested it and it works perfectly fine all wiring connected to the starter seemed fine an all fuses have been checked and there okay so does anyone have advice?
    Last edited by AngelF; 03-17-2019 at 02:08 AM.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by AngelF View Post
    My 1997 328i has a similar issue except mine turns on the fuel pump an all the lights work as normal but still no crank from the starter, I removed the starter an tested it and it works perfectly fine all wiring connected to the starter seemed fine an all fuses have been checked and there okay so does anyone have advice?
    I’m having the similar problem with my 97 328is. My car starts most of the time but that’s not good enough. I’ve not removed the starter because it looks like a pain so I began inside the car. First, I jumped the clutch switch with a small piece of wire in the connector. That rules out the switch and lets me try to start it from the passenger side. Next, I removed the glovebox to gain access to the ews2 module. I stuck a couple of test lights on the large wires. During an attempt to start, I have power coming in to ews2 on the black/green wire but it’s not going out (black/yellow)to the starter solenoid. This means ews2 is causing my no-crank,no-start and probably yours too. However, I’m not sure what to do now. It could be a faulty key, the ring antenna, or the ews2 module itself. There is so much weird stuff that has to happen for ews2 to allow the car to start. I could jump the two wires at the ews2 connector but I’ve read it kills spark also, resulting in a crank,no-start. These cars are +20 years old now and theft is not a huge concern so doesn’t someone have a solution to “hotwire” this darn thing?

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