E38 Sway Bar Thread

[maskmobile]

did any one install that rear bar? how did you go about adding the metal to the sub frame

[TitaniumSeeker]

did any one install that rear bar? how did you go about adding the metal to the sub frame

I installed the 13mm rear sway bar for poor Euro roads and am very pleased with the results. I would say that the handling is improved. I should also mention that it is lowered with UUC springs and installed Bilstein Shocks. Not a difficult install if you have the right tools. The shop I used did a very good job using the OEM parts I supplied.

[2tonic]

VERY interesting thread - this is the first time I've seen it. Thanks to maskmobile for resurrecting it.

And here I thought it was no big deal that the PO of my 98 740i had a rear sway bar installed. Now I need to crawl under there to measure it and check out the installation. I'll be replacing the rear balljoints soon so I'll have a good opportunity then.

[cody3]

I installed the rear sway bar from the Euro Rough Roads package, same as TitaniumSeeker. I was replacing the Diff with a 3.45 LSD at the time and had them replace the sub frame and control with the BMW Euro OEM parts that have the mounting brackets and holes.

There are cheaper ways to add one, and overall it's worth it.

[decepticons7]

BUMP !

Can anyone who has done this mod please take some pics!

Thanks

[DaveClement]

I posted pictures a number of years ago on my Car Domain page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/205279/22 I haven't touched anything on Car Domain in years and I don't know why the pictures don't expand to full size when you click on them.

[Reed Hunt]

I posted pictures a number of years ago on my Car Domain page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/205279/22 I haven't touched anything on Car Domain in years and I don't know why the pictures don't expand to full size when you click on them.

Dave,

Long time, no post...glad to see you're still lurking around the fringes!

[decepticons7]

I posted pictures a number of years ago on my Car Domain page. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/205279/22 I haven't touched anything on Car Domain in years and I don't know why the pictures don't expand to full size when you click on them.

Thanks Dave!

Hope to see ya at some of the meets! I know your a busy!!!

[m5james]

Interesting reading, good to see this kind of information is floating around...I never knew. Now just another thing to slow down my suspension rebuild since i'm gonna wanna add this now also

[decepticons7]

Any recent active members who have sports have the rear sway bar installed?

[cody3]

Ok, fine... :-) Here are some photos I took (over two years ago) of the rear-sway bar after the installation and annotated some of the images. Please keep in mind that my installation replaced the sub-frame and left control arm so that it had the factory mounting points from a a Euro spec E38. All of those items would need to be replicated in some fashion in order to add a rear sway bar to the US spec cars.

Regards,
Cody

[decepticons7]

Ok, fine... :-) Here are some photos I took (over two years ago) of the rear-sway bar after the installation and annotated some of the images. Please keep in mind that my installation replaced the sub-frame and left control arm so that it had the factory mounting points from a a Euro spec E38. All of those items would need to be replicated in some fashion in order to add a rear sway bar to the US spec cars.

Regards,
Cody

Cody your awesome!

Your seven is a great example!

I am considering this mod and would love to know your input on the differences in handling.




BTW thanks for the PICS

[cody3]

As for the handling differences, they're more subtle than in your face, if that makes sense.

In general the back end stays put better through the turns, especially at high speeds. The biggest improvement was on roads where the pavement is uneven or wavy in the turns.

I'm very happy with the mod. Although the OEM method I took (e.g. replacing the sub-frame and lower control arm) is about two or three times what it should cost if you have a good shop custom make the mounting points and install it.

[m5james]

Just wanted to throw in a thanks to Dave C. and Rob here.

Dave...I'm ordering the larger front sway bar next week to go with the new springs from UUC. You were the inspiration and I appreciate the links and info you gave in previous posts.

Rob...I'M NOT CRAZY My car doesn't have mounting points for the rear sway bar. So, now I gotta find out how much the updated swing parts are.

Rhett

I just wanted to see if you'd be willing to chime in on this thread some more and less us know how it went? I'm gonna be ordering something today, so I wanna know what i'm getting myself into.

[m5james]

Dave, good pic of the swaybar bracket.

This is where I was saying a general-purpose swaybar bracket could be used instead of changing the subframe:



By the way, I think we should move this discussion to a fresh thread. Any moderators want to move the suspension posts?

- Rob

Hey Rob,

I'm not sure if you're car already had the subframe mounts or not since it's getting so confusing as to which cars have them. Did you happen to use those mounts in the bottom right of the pic and where would I be able to get them?

Thanks.

[Rob Levinson]

Hey Rob,

I'm not sure if you're car already had the subframe mounts or not since it's getting so confusing as to which cars have them.

My 750 had them. All cars with SLL (self-leveling suspension) should have them because the sensor uses the rear swaybar to determine compression from weight.

Did you happen to use those mounts in the bottom right of the pic and where would I be able to get them?

Thanks.

Generic parts from Energy Suspension. Your local Pep Boys or AutoZone may have them.

- Rob

[m5james]

Ok, fine... :-) Here are some photos I took (over two years ago) of the rear-sway bar after the installation and annotated some of the images. Please keep in mind that my installation replaced the sub-frame and left control arm so that it had the factory mounting points from a a Euro spec E38. All of those items would need to be replicated in some fashion in order to add a rear sway bar to the US spec cars.

Regards,
Cody

Sadly i dont have that tab as a template like you stated in the 4th pic

[m5james]

Leave it to me to revive a 5yr old thread So i'm doing the swaybar upgrade as we speak, and i'm hoping some seasoned vets here can give their .02 in regards to me purchasing the rear sway bar.

I looked around on www.car-part.com and was able to get the 22mm front sway bar for $80 shipped, but as we all know, the 13mm is a European option. I can get the rear sway bar for $50 including the end links for $50 and the shipping will be included since i've also purchased the front sway bar. Now, this is where I need you're guys' opinions. I spoke to Bimmerworld after being advised to speak w/ them since they're supposed to be the BMW suspension pros. The guy I spoke to on the phone said that upgrading from the 20.5mm to the 22mm front sway bar won't be a huge upgrade, but he agreed that adding a swaybar in the rear will be beneficial. I'm just on the fence if I should get the 10mm since it's so cheap, or should I really pay 3x as much and get the 13mm brand new from my local stealer? I'm doing polyurethane on basically every piece I can get my hands on, so while we were speaking on the phone, we came to the agreement that unless I track the car regularly (which I don't, mountain twisties at most once every 2-3 mnths) that having the 10mm and poly bushings will net me a great result compared to having no rear swaybar at all. What is your guys opinion? After comparinging basic common sockets in my toolbox, I have to agree that 1.5mm in the front isn't substantial, but at this point it's all going to add up nicely w/ my H&R Stage II spring and Bilstein Sport shocks. Since adding the rear is gonna be beneficial regardless, should I really worry about 3mm? I realize the sports came w/ 22mm fronts and 10mm rear, so either way it's gonna be better than what I have now.

This is one of those threads where the mature veterans where still giving input and it wasn't full of teenagers who own (sadly) 5-7k 7's. Thanks guys, I hope everyone has been doing well. Hey Rob, sorry again for getting in the middle of your diff sale thread way back. Anyways, give me your guys' .02.

Generic parts from Energy Suspension. Your local Pep Boys or AutoZone may have them.

- Rob

22mm, 10mm-13mm poly bushing w/ brackets are $19 for a pair at Autozone....I've been all over the highway, but things are in the mail today, so it's nice to finally get this off my list of things to do

[TxDarth]

Funny that all this exchange about sway bars is going on just now...a few of us in the DFW7's are planning a group install of the rear bars. The 740 sports did not come with the rear bar at all so we will need to weld on the link bracket for the right lower control arm (I think - it is only on one side from the factory). Then the center mounts are going to be a problem as I understand, the OEM brackets are no longer available so the universal one must be modified to fit. This may also need a stand off bracket to mount just for bar clearance, we will see.

Since we all need the bars I guess we will order the 13 mm from the dealer - there aren't that many 750's around for parts even in Texas.

[m5james]

I don't have any BMW specific junkyards here in Boise either, so unless I can find what I need off the few 7's that I have found w/ the 4 junkyards in my area, I goto www.car-part.com. I'm interested to see what your GB comes down to in price for the rear swaybar. I called my local dealership along w/ Crevier and they were both @ $144 (minus shipping from Crevier). I still wonder in the back of my head if I should have gone w/ the 13mm, but I can't beat $40 plus the end links for that price.

My car doesn't have brackets on either side of the lower control arm, but I fortunately have a friend who owns a 750iL locally who will let me borrow his car to use as a templete to make and locate the brackets. I found Energy Suspension swaybar brackets @ Autozone for $19 which I can either weld into place, or simply drill, tap and bolt into place. Maybe I'm just selling my conscience into being cheap, but coming from no rear swaybar at all and going to a 10mm w/ polyurethane bushings should satisfy my needs for the few times I actually will take the car into twisty switchbacks or the once in a blue moon track day.

[TxDarth]

Maybe I'm just selling my conscience into being cheap, but coming from no rear swaybar at all and going to a 10mm w/ polyurethane bushings should satisfy my needs for the few times I actually will take the car into twisty switchbacks or the once in a blue moon track day.

Actually that seems very logical to me..............

[JLe38]

Funny that all this exchange about sway bars is going on just now...a few of us in the DFW7's are planning a group install of the rear bars. The 740 sports did not come with the rear bar at all so we will need to weld on the link bracket for the right lower control arm (I think - it is only on one side from the factory). Then the center mounts are going to be a problem as I understand, the OEM brackets are no longer available so the universal one must be modified to fit. This may also need a stand off bracket to mount just for bar clearance, we will see.

Since we all need the bars I guess we will order the 13 mm from the dealer - there aren't that many 750's around for parts even in Texas.

I for one am anxiously looking forward to the DFW7 rear sway bar DIY day. The 13mm rear sway bar has only been sitting in my garage for 4 years or so.

JL

I don't have any BMW specific junkyards here in Boise either, so unless I can find what I need off the few 7's that I have found w/ the 4 junkyards in my area, I goto www.car-part.com. I'm interested to see what your GB comes down to in price for the rear swaybar. I called my local dealership along w/ Crevier and they were both @ $144 (minus shipping from Crevier). I still wonder in the back of my head if I should have gone w/ the 13mm, but I can't beat $40 plus the end links for that price.

My car doesn't have brackets on either side of the lower control arm, but I fortunately have a friend who owns a 750iL locally who will let me borrow his car to use as a templete to make and locate the brackets. I found Energy Suspension swaybar brackets @ Autozone for $19 which I can either weld into place, or simply drill, tap and bolt into place. Maybe I'm just selling my conscience into being cheap, but coming from no rear swaybar at all and going to a 10mm w/ polyurethane bushings should satisfy my needs for the few times I actually will take the car into twisty switchbacks or the once in a blue moon track day.

m5james, didn't you also have a friend that can custom weld the brackets for you?

JL

[cdh]

Leave it to me to revive a 5yr old thread So i'm doing the swaybar upgrade as we speak, and i'm hoping some seasoned vets here can give their .02 in regards to me purchasing the rear sway bar.

I looked around on www.car-part.com and was able to get the 22mm front sway bar for $80 shipped, but as we all know, the 13mm is a European option. I can get the rear sway bar for $50 including the end links for $50 and the shipping will be included since i've also purchased the front sway bar. Now, this is where I need you're guys' opinions. I spoke to Bimmerworld after being advised to speak w/ them since they're supposed to be the BMW suspension pros. The guy I spoke to on the phone said that upgrading from the 20.5mm to the 22mm front sway bar won't be a huge upgrade, but he agreed that adding a swaybar in the rear will be beneficial. I'm just on the fence if I should get the 10mm since it's so cheap, or should I really pay 3x as much and get the 13mm brand new from my local stealer? I'm doing polyurethane on basically every piece I can get my hands on, so while we were speaking on the phone, we came to the agreement that unless I track the car regularly (which I don't, mountain twisties at most once every 2-3 mnths) that having the 10mm and poly bushings will net me a great result compared to having no rear swaybar at all. What is your guys opinion? After comparinging basic common sockets in my toolbox, I have to agree that 1.5mm in the front isn't substantial, but at this point it's all going to add up nicely w/ my H&R Stage II spring and Bilstein Sport shocks. Since adding the rear is gonna be beneficial regardless, should I really worry about 3mm? I realize the sports came w/ 22mm fronts and 10mm rear, so either way it's gonna be better than what I have now.

This is one of those threads where the mature veterans where still giving input and it wasn't full of teenagers who own (sadly) 5-7k 7's. Thanks guys, I hope everyone has been doing well. Hey Rob, sorry again for getting in the middle of your diff sale thread way back. Anyways, give me your guys' .02.



22mm, 10mm-13mm poly bushing w/ brackets are $19 for a pair at Autozone....I've been all over the highway, but things are in the mail today, so it's nice to finally get this off my list of things to do

Go with the 10mm rear and get it installed. Drive it. If if not happy with the change, upgrade to the 13mm bar later. This way you have a baseline to draw from when evaluating the change. Plus once all the brackets are in, it does not take long to change the rear sway bar. Too bad you are across the border, I'd donate my 10mm bar to the project.
Craig

[m5james]

m5james, didn't you also have a friend that can custom weld the brackets for you?

JL

Yeah, we have this cute little site called www.garage208.com that discusses local SCCA AutoX events, meets, etc. Someone contacted me and offered to weld some aluminum tabs back onto my motorcycle radiator since I kinda broke them from doing wheelies and coming down too hard The tabs we're originally glued on from the factory, so welding should prevent them from ever coming off again.

He also said he could weld the steel tabs for me, which is perfect. I don't have 220v at my house, but since the rear is such an easy installation (swapping is an hour from what i've read) i'm going to have the tabs welded into place first, then i'll just come home and install it. Now i'm just trying to determine how to mount the polybushings and mounts for the swaybar that connect to the subframe. Another thing I noticed to is that Energy Suspension doesn't make a 10mm bushing, the closest they make is an 11mm. I might have to hold off on the rear and jump onto the rear swaybar GB...being forced to upgrade from the 10mm to 13mm might happen after all

Hope you've been good

Go with the 10mm rear and get it installed. Drive it. If if not happy with the change, upgrade to the 13mm bar later. This way you have a baseline to draw from when evaluating the change. Plus once all the brackets are in, it does not take long to change the rear sway bar. Too bad you are across the border, I'd donate my 10mm bar to the project.
Craig

Thanks for the offer Craig. I've actually been calling around to random junkyards to see if everyone has the parts I need...i'm also looking at doing the 750 calipers and rotors while i'm at it

[DaveClement]

It has been ages since I have posted. I haven't even looked at the forum in years. I still have my 750iL, but I haven't been into modifying it. Just too many other things going on. Plus I bought a motorcycle, a 2001 Kawasaki Police 1000. I've wanted one since I was in college.

I'd vote for the larger rear bar. It is only about a hundred bucks more. In the big scheme of things, that's not a lot of money. You might as well get the beefiest bar you can get. The 13mm bar is 30% thicker and that will translate to more than a 30% increase in stiffness.

The front bar is a huge hassle to swap, but the rear is easy if you already have the brackets.

Despite rumors to the contrary, I've never heard of anyone with a 740i Sport that actually had a rear sway bars from the factory. All information that I have is that they were only on long wheelbase models with self leveling. The control valve for the self leveling mounts to the sway bar.