LS1 swap on the cheap

[LS1 E36]

Here's my swap in a 97 318i. Nothing too crazy but done relatively cheap. Highlights include:

• 1998 Corvette LS1 - stock except cam and DBW deleted.
• 4L80E auto trans
• DIY motor mounts, headers (based on Sandersons), wiring

Less than $5k including the motor and trans.

[BRAAP]

Very nice.

Couple questions.

What mods to trans tunnel did you perform?

How did you base your headers on Sandersons? (Sanderson E36 LSx swap headers?)

Looking forward to hearing about and seeing more details of your build.

[Ragnorak]

Mega.

Sleeper.

[Schitzo]

Welcome

[bimerok]

Welcome to the club

[tonytone4143]

awesome sleeper!!

[Tongboy]

how's the 318 rear holding up to the power?

[pdsq98gt]

I can only imagine how much beating the trans tunnel was involved. Where's the alternator? Looks like you don't have abs. How did you do the steering shaft and driver side manifold?

[hefftone]

Nice teaser post....seriously, more pics and details, please!

[LS1 E36]

Only minor trans tunnel mods. I was shocked how large that tunnel is. Most difficult was getting the cooler lines to fit.

ABS was nudged slightly to the side and lines tweaked.

LH header is standard Sanderson, with a 90 degree elbow welded in place of the collector, run close to the block and dimpled to get around the steering shaft.

Alt has been moved down to the Fbody location.

I currently sourcing a 325/328 diff. The current diff is 4.44!

[BRAAP]

LH header is standard Sanderson, with a 90 degree elbow welded in place of the collector, run close to the block and dimpled to get around the steering shaft.

Which Sanderson header, they make several different ones for the LSx?

[mateo m3]

pretty sure shorty headers

[bigbegum]

can I ask why you chose a 4l80? Seems like major overkill

[LS1 E36]

Shorty headers.

4L80 because 1) Its close ratio vs the horrible 1st to 2nd shift on the 4L60 and 2) the strength means I can supercharge, etc.

[Jesus Freak]

The 4l80e easier to put in tight places, the case is smaller in diameter but longer and the trans pan is skinnier than the 4l60e

I was debating putting a 4l60e in my 5er but after some research on ls1tech, I found that the 4l80e is smaller in diameter... Meaning less pounding of the tunnel.

Good looking swap too!

[Pzary3233]

WOW! Awesome lets see the headers and mounts!

[weaksauce]

i think that was the fastest swap ever, only took 2 posts......

[jbimflyer]

Under 5k including labor? And how fast is your car now??

[kenndoggy]

The 4l80e easier to put in tight places, the case is smaller in diameter but longer and the trans pan is skinnier than the 4l60e

I was debating putting a 4l60e in my 5er but after some research on ls1tech, I found that the 4l80e is smaller in diameter... Meaning less pounding of the tunnel.

Good looking swap too!

The bellhousing is bigger though, right? That was the only issue I had with the trans tunnel in my volvo, was the bellhousing being in the way. And of course - cooler lines.


I did not know about the 4l80 ratio's either. Live and learn

[Jesus Freak]

The bellhousing is bigger though, right? That was the only issue I had with the trans tunnel in my volvo, was the bellhousing being in the way. And of course - cooler lines.


I did not know about the 4l80 ratio's either. Live and learn

The bellhousing is 1.75" wider on the 4l80e. Yah, the cooler lines are a pain in any car. Lol

Here's the gear ratios:

4L60E *4L80E
1 3.06 *2.48
2 1.63 1.48
3 1.00 *1.00
4 0.70 *0.75 *

[LS1 E36]

Engine $2500
Trans $400
Headers $350
HP Tuners $500
Misc $500ish
I did the labour, so $0

Selling off the old parts now. So definitely under $5k.

[kenndoggy]

Engine $2500
Trans $400
Headers $350
HP Tuners $500
Misc $500ish
I did the labour, so $0

Selling off the old parts now. So definitely under $5k.

There's a LOT missing. Fuel line fittings? Exhaust pipe? Muffler even? No way you're entire 'misc' category is only $500. Tach converter? (edit - nm, yours was a 318, so you didn't need a tach converter - the LS ECU outputs a 4 cylinder tach signal as-is). Driveshaft? Did your engine come with ecu/harness/all of the correct sensors? Radiator hoses? Sorry, but I'm not convinced. I did my swap relatively cheap, but my motor/trans was half the price of yours, and I'm still ~$4500 or so into it.

[LS1 E36]

Fuel lines are stock GM, slipped over the BMW hard line with hose clamps. Muffler is a 328 I got used for $60. Exhaust pipes I got bent up at a shop for $100 (no cats - we don't have emmision laws where I live). Tach is covered with the HP Tuners I listed (but it didn't need to be changed with a 318). Engine included all wiring, sensors PCM. Only the alt was missing (I got one at the junkyard for $30). Lower rad hose is Taurus for $25, upper is BMW and GM hybrid with a Home Depot hose connector ($3). Rad is a used 328 ($60). Driveshaft is a Ford Ranger ($30 at junkyard), diff flange is new ($45), new ujoints ($75).

Basically, lots of USED parts, not new. I think that's the key to a cheap swap.

[kenndoggy]

Fuel lines are stock GM, slipped over the BMW hard line with hose clamps. Muffler is a 328 I got used for $60. Exhaust pipes I got bent up at a shop for $100 (no cats - we don't have emmision laws where I live). Tach is covered with the HP Tuners I listed (but it didn't need to be changed with a 318). Engine included all wiring, sensors PCM. Only the alt was missing (I got one at the junkyard for $30). Lower rad hose is Taurus for $25, upper is BMW and GM hybrid with a Home Depot hose connector ($3). Rad is a used 328 ($60). Driveshaft is a Ford Ranger ($30 at junkyard), diff flange is new ($45), new ujoints ($75).

Basically, lots of USED parts, not new. I think that's the key to a cheap swap.

I'm skeptical about the Ford Ranger driveshaft, but really, kudo's on getting the swap done that cheap. I need to post my spreadsheet for all to see. I'd say there is ~$400-$500 in little fittings and adapters and small parts that I forgot to add in the receipts from. Other than that, my list is pretty complete.

[LS1 E36]

Yes, you should be skeptical on the driveshaft. It vibrates due to it being out of phase. Too bad as it was the right length and diameter. I'm going to upgrade to one with a cv at the trans. I've already grabbed one from, you guessed it - the junk yard! But I'll have to get it properly tubed and balanced, so that will be $200-300.