You have to be 100% sure your alternator never outputs more than about 14.2 volts (make sure the regulator works and the output isn't too high), and you must not let the battery go completely dead - don't leave your lights on or the dome light on/door open. The reserve it pretty low. It'll pump out 480 CCA for 10 seconds, way more than enough to get the motor cranking and then it'll do 280 amps for the full remaining charge. If you have a "draw" on your electrical system with the key off and you park your car for extended periods of time, you need to either have a battery cutoff or leave it on a LiFePo specific battery charger/tender. I daily the car and though I have killed 1 pack through carelessness, I've had great performance for the last 6+ years.
Understood and that makes perfect sense.
Last edited by jakermac; 04-08-2016 at 12:45 AM.
OK, been quiet for a while and have been more involved with the ChumpCar team, but this past fall I did get back to improvements on the M3.
I had finally decided to add aero and part of that was to now build a true splitter, something more than the small under-panel and lip that I had been running. I had built the attachments to be prepared for a full splitter so all I needed to do was focus on the new splitter shape.
My plan was to drop the splitter down a 1/2" lower than the previous panel, I didn't want it lower due to trailer loading issues and figured this would be a good compromise. Same construction method was to be used, Fiberglass over 1/4 plywood core. The difficult part those would be how to now fill the 1/2" space between the splitter and the bottom of the bumper trim.
So I made a spacer to fit the shape and size of the opening, using bendable plywood. This isn't part of the splitter but just the mold to build this lip onto the splitter. You can see packing tape on the lower section of the bumper, this is waxed with releasing wax many time then the fiberglass is laid on right onto the car to get the right shape.
Photo Jul 24, 6 24 10 PM (1).jpg
Cutting out the cloth to do the layup
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Photo Jul 25, 8 47 19 PM (1).jpg
Then I pulled this off the car and then added several coats to the lip and the plywood core to build up some strength.
Not the best picture but here is the finished product on the car painted and ready to go.
Photo Oct 22, 8 56 06 AM.jpg
So the rest of the aero was far easier than fabricating a splitter, I decided after much investigation to go with a Sneed Speed wing. I know aero choices get everyone worked up but after being at the track and talking with a couple BMW drivers that were running this wing and getting a first hand look at it I felt it was a good item for me. The price point is significantly less than so others and I thought it would be good for me.
Installation is straight forward, just center it and drill some holes
Photo Sep 27, 6 32 29 PM.jpg
One thing that did surprise me is that the end plates were not drilled, I figured they would be and I would not need to do that. Not sure if this is common on these wings from other makers?
Photo Sep 27, 7 13 13 PM.jpg
Wing all installed and ready to go
Photo Sep 28, 7 40 23 PM.jpg
First test was at AMP and I did notice that car felt more planted, especially coming down the straight into #1 and more stable under braking.
Then a month later at Rd Atl I could really tell a big difference, that car just felt much better and planted, which translates to confidence and I dropped a couple seconds of my personal best.
So my fabricated splitter and this wing choice has paid off for sure.
Last edited by MCMM3; 06-01-2017 at 02:39 PM.
Found a couple pics of the car with the new aero installed out on track for the first test day.
JTI AMP Oct 2016 Merrill_010.jpg
JTI AMP Oct 2016 Merrill_021.jpg
JTI AMP Oct 2016 Merrill_006.jpg
Photo credit to my friends at MotorSportMedia for these pics.
Well continued work on the diet for the car, several weeks ago. Removed a bit of extra metal from the doors and any remaining wiring in the doors for the windows and power locking. I didn't remove the entire inside of the door as I want to keep the interior door handles functional. Also removed the sound deadening, not shown in the pics.
Only a few more pounds removed but at this point it is a matter of finding areas to get 2-4#, the big 15-20# finds are over.
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Got back to Roebling Road with the car. I have very little time at this track and still have plenty to learn to try to get good times here. This track is the one we have run the least in the southeast.
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JTI Roebling 2017 Roebling Merrill_16.jpg
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Thanks again to MotorsportMedia and Rich Sainato for some nice pics!
Car ran well, my Co-driver/wife was back in action as well so the car got double duty, and temps were pretty high 85-88 both days. We ran on some old V721 Hankook r-comps that I seriously though only had 2-3 sessions left but we ran them all day Saturday and a couple short sessions on Sunday until we had a real issue.
Things got bad on Sunday, just entering turn #1 then heard a loud thump and pop, then the car was vibrating like hell and shaking like crazy! Lots of fun in that fast right-hander, glad no one was close. Got it slowed and limped into the pits only to find that 3 wheel studs had sheered of the driver front wheel of course this was fully loaded in turn #1
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So our day was done and as soon as I was back home contacted Ryan at motorsporthardware.com to get a complete new set. I need to make swapping out studs a more frequent item on my list. I got luck this time, as that could have been far worse!
crazy, I had the same thing happen to me on my Koseis, not sure why they are snapping though. I replaced them all and tried the electrical tape trick on the wheel spacer and i still seem to snap one or two. Hopefully there's a solution to this. If you find it please let me know. Thanks!
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
I haven't heard of this being a Kosei's issue? What do you know about that? Also not sure I know the electrical tape trick. I'm using a set of Turner hub centric 10mm spacers that I double checked fit against the hub and rotor, then inside both wheels and the fit is snug and no binding. This is the first time in about 5 years with this car that I have had this issue.
From when I talked to Ryan he said that the koseis fitment could be an issue as the hub bore is different than the BMWs hub, I also run a 10mm front spacer from ECS tuning and he told me to use a piece of electrical tape to fill the slight gap to see if that will help, but I checked this morning and 2 more bolts were broken. I am thinking of either changing the spacers or going back to bolts not too sure yet, I've had these on for about 1 year now and it just started to fail on me, however, I Daily drive the car now so not sure if these roads out here are killing them with all the road vibration.
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
I believe the issue arises with certain spacers paired with Kosei's in particular. I remember reading about this issue awhile ago, and saw one instance first hand where a wheel came off the car in a corner. Here is the explanation from Turner's website. Some of the spacers they sell even explicitly say not compatible with Kosei K1.
"Wheels With Incorrect Beveled Edge
Some wheels (Kosei in particular) have a beveled mounting surface that is at a different angle than on the spacer. The spacer may use a 45* bevel but the wheel could be 60*. Since the parts are not snug together the wheel will vibrate. This situation is not very common but does come up once in a while. The solution is to use a larger spacer that may not have any bevel at all. Or, depending on the spacer size and location, you could use our Turner Hub Extenders and Flat Spacers."
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-w...cyclopedia#Hub
e30 1989 325i coupe, Alpine White
Not sure that is the issue. You would have known immediately if the spacer was not compatible with the K1, as the wheel does not sit flush on the hub. The wheels would feel unbalanced from the get go. At least that is my experience. I've been running the turner 10mm 2 piece spacer and K1s for years and have yet to break a stud.
Last edited by scoobyej20; 05-16-2017 at 02:47 PM.
I checked the fit pretty closely last night. I checked the fit of my turner spacer in both a set of TR Motorsport C2 wheels and also the Koseis and there is no difference I can tell at all. The spacer sits absolutely flush to the back of the wheel and I cannot feel any side to side movement in the center bore. The fit of the spacer onto the hub is also spot on. I'm going to chalk this up to studs that were well past their prime.
I never torque them hot.
My friends at DIYAUTOTUNE contacted me as they were working on a new MS3Pro product for the E36 platform. The idea sounded great to me as it is a true Plug and Play type system. I wasn't sure I wanted to go with a new ECU that I couldn't easily go back to stock just in case I wanted to consider BMWCCA racing. This is nice as if I ever need to I can unplug this and throw the original back in.
The team did a great job with the car and you can see the first unit being installed in my car here in the pics. They got it all dialed in making sure all the systems were functioning properly then did some tuning. With no mods only the CPU change their tune got an increase of about 5whp and in doing this the tune was not as lean making it a bit safer as well.
I have tested the car twice since the install this weekend at Atlanta Motorsport Park and at Barber 3 weeks ago that can bee seen in the video here. https://www.facebook.com/ms3pro/vide...5329791272227/
The best thing for me is that it has been perfect, no issues, just start the car, back it off the trailer and run. Soon I hope to start with the software and maybe begin to play with some things that I couldn't do with the original ECU. It also opens up tuning ideas if I do decide to go with cams and other changes.
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I'll continue to post on any updates with the unit but so far it's been flawless. So anyone looking for non-OEM ECU options this might be the ticket for you!
Hi!
I just sold my Wilwood Superlite calipers and I've got a set of brand new Pagid RS29 for sale if ever you could be interested.
I changed because I found front and rear Porsche calipers for cheap
While not a speed related item, I was tired after two incidents of me noticing the hood getting loose as my wife was on track so I just figured it was time to ditch relying on the OEM latches and go to hood pins.
I considered going with the Aerocatch but they looked like they could be a pain to install and I wasn't after the locking aspect so I just went with the external type offered by Bimmerworld. They seem better quality than some from ebay or other cheap ones from Summit.
Installation was pretty easy with these. I chose to use the location right near the radiator support where the rubber grommets were just behind the stock latch hole. Put tape on the hood to avoid doing more harm than needed and drilled away.
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I did upgrade the hardware on the hood pin set as it comes with small self tapping screws but I liked the idea of it being through bolted, so I got some very small 6/32 or 8/32 hardware in stainless and used just a dab of thread lock to make sure these didn't leave the car while on track. I did have to use a dremmel tool to shape the main hole a little bit for a good fit. And I did leave the original secondary latch in place as a safety but I could remove that after several track events I think as the hood is totally secure now as it should be!
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Done!
Well usually I'm reporting about the latest change or addition to make the car better. But today I'm reporting on a part that went bad and in a big way, could have been far worse if it had broken at a different time.
SCCA PDX at Road Atlanta, my wife and I getting in a little track time, I had just finished my second session and I may have heard a little extra rattle or bump from the rear but nothing to be alarmed by. I wasn't pushing too hard as it was still just a bit damp. So my wife jumps in and is taking out a novice to show him the line and then this happens.
Had no idea what it was but as soon as it was on the flatbed and brought back to the trailer I saw the busted lower control arm. So that car had "active camber" on that side and had either of us been pushing it with that going out it could have been bad news.
Here is the failure. I assume metal fatigue just took it's toll on this arm and considering the quality level of the steel and welds I guess I can see why it would go.
old arm1.jpg
But the good news is no real damage to the car or passengers and we can fix it and in this case make it much better. I've been happy with the products from AKG so I immediately ordered their lower control arms as the replacements. They are so much beefier than these other off-brand control arms I was using.
New AKG arms
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Comparison, or no comparison in this case.
AKG-old.jpg
I had however forgotten how fun these were to change due to the inner mounting bolts and having to loosen up the diff to move it around to gain access! But completed install and did a decent home alignment and it will be ready to go.
If anyone is using these off brand steel control arms I would recommend a very thorough inspection.
Great lesson for all with visual proof to back it up.
In this case it sure is better to buy a properly designed part then some improvised knock off. Pretty well applies to all suspension and brake setups.
good reaction on the drivers part to not brake hard and simply roll on to the first runoff safely.
I agree but when building with a bit of a budget we all make some compromises sometimes, I don't think I would make that mistake again.
As far as the driver taking car of the car, it's my wife, and I always say she is way smarter about noises on the car. She was in the car after once before and did a few laps with a passenger and the brakes started making "weird noises and feelings" to her. The passenger said "it's OK" , she didn't listen and brought it in. I found a caliper bolt on the bracket had gone missing, so just one bolt holding it!
Well that is why women outlive men. Mostly smarter, not out to impress, attuned to their surroundings with a good dose of self preservation. Hoping the passenger appreciated her skill and decision making. Also hoping he had a good experience after with another driver to finish a good lap or 2. Thanks for sharing.
How much are those
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Well, I've mainly just been maintaining the car and driving it at DE events, no TT events for a while. I had just started to fabricate both canards and a CAI but that will all go on hold. This past weekend at Roebling Road it looks like we lost the motor. Not a complete grenade just noticed it immediately go down on power and start running rough and pitted and ended our weekend.
Well, the leak down I think tells the story #1, #2, #4 all look good about 2-3% loss. #3 has an intake valve issue with about 12% loss, but the real story is #5 and #6, they both show 100% loss and they each vent into the other. Looks like a head gasket between 5 and 6 is gone!
So it looks like a top end rebuild is now the next task, I need to decide now on any upgrades and the one item on my mind is a cam set upgrade.
So I'll post some updates on how this project gets on.
https://www.core4motorsports.com/
In the long run, this is actually cheaper than replacing broken studs. (If you have newish wheel bearings/hubs You can send those and Tom will machine those.
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