not many wires needed. No stock cluster, no fuse box nor stock relays (except the 3 that are tied to the engine harness)
I have a painless wiring aftermarket harness and fuse block.
Manifold/turbo/dp/wastegate are here. Unfortunately I'm a moron and didn't show my fabricator pictures of my cage tieing into my front shock towers, and totally forgot about it when looking at pictures of the manifold/wg piping.... thus the downpipe and WG pipe don't fit. Going to have to get them modified. Here are a few pics of the manifold and turbo on the car though
And some WG clearance issues that I need to fix / have modified since I didn't tell my fabricator about the cage tie in to the front shock towers:
That's it for now.. Might have to pull the manifold/turbo off to send it back and get modified. Maybe first start next weekend?
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
You may also want to use the 135/335/n54 exhaust studs. They are a torx head bolt and much easier to deal with. You can cut them to length if your manifold is an odd depth.
You'll also want to think about riveting or screwing in the DEI wrap on the wheel well - as the adhesive will start to fail over time.
Lots of progress, keep it up.
You may also want to use the 135/335/n54 exhaust studs. They are a torx head bolt and much easier to deal with. You can cut them to length if your manifold is an odd depth.
You'll also want to think about riveting or screwing in the DEI wrap on the wheel well - as the adhesive will start to fail over time.
Lots of progress, keep it up.
You may also want to use the 135/335/n54 exhaust studs. They are a torx head bolt and much easier to deal with. You can cut them to length if your manifold is an odd depth.
You'll also want to think about riveting or screwing in the DEI wrap on the wheel well - as the adhesive will start to fail over time.
Lots of progress, keep it up.
Last edited by fritzintn; 09-30-2011 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
SOLD -A dozen ///M3s of all shapes
Just cut that part of the cage Problem solved. You're welcome.
http://www.youtube.com/user/mvs36
-Mike
I'd rather not do that. Way too much work went into this chassis to just cut a cage tube like that. I might just rotate the first pipe and have the recirc closed up on the DP and run open dump for now
-Mike
more test fitting... wrapping downpipe, turbo blanket, etc.
Had the downpipe modified and WG piping modified to just run open dump. Bring ear plugs if you want a ride
aeroquip -10 push lock drain
-Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 10-01-2011 at 10:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Open dump is the way to go, sounds sexual
hell yeah. I had an open dump on my 6262 but only for 3 days.... street driving it, cops can hear you from literally 1/4 mile + away.... I don't want to go to jail. For a drift/track car though, hell yeah! so easiest way to fix this piping was go open dump. I still have to go get a dump tube fabbed, but i'll drive/tow the car to my buddy to do that after the *rest* is done, i.e. running, with windows, etc.
few more pics from last night
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
This thread is porn for gearheads!
just went through the whole thread. so jelly.
amazing build and cant wait to see it done.
clutch fan?! god why?!
can you bring this thing up to a club loose event so I can drive it?
About the clutch fan, really? I guess cause your boosted you get alot more heat. I run dual 10inch electric fans but I'm also na so I'm guessing not half as much heat as you. Been following this build for a while. Sure do wish I had this kinda fundage haha.
Yeah turbos make a lot more heat than an NA car. The clutch fan flows like 5000 CFM once that fan clutch starts locking up as water temp rises to the 195-200 area. Hence the crazy "howl" you get when the car gets warm.. It's flowing a LOT of air. My spal would flow more at idle and keep idle temps a little lower, but for high rpm, low-ish speed situations (i.e. auto-x or drifting), the clutch fan does a WAY better job of keeping the water temp in check. (which is why I think it's crazy chelsea isn't running a clutch fan right now. AHEM. )
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Haha idk he's doing a good job of it. I'm running a v8 with an upgraded cooling system, pump, rad,160 t-stat and the fans output 2900 cfm a piece. Did away with the clutch fan when it broke on the inline six.Originally Posted by MikeE36
[QUOTE="Euroslide"]
Haha idk he's doing a good job of it. I'm running a v8 with an upgraded cooling system, pump, rad,160 t-stat and the fans output 2900 cfm a piece. Did away with the clutch fan when it broke on the inline six.
Ps keep up the amazing work.
Last edited by Euroslide; 10-02-2011 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yeah man, one 16" spal flat blade flows like 2400cfm. I know you have a lot more power, and therefore heat, but I can't believe that that clutch fan would do better than two of those bad boys.
Last edited by MikeE36; 10-03-2011 at 01:59 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
lol good point I didn't completely think that one through.
im sojelly.
no nice, how are you going to have working windows? my windows do not work, got the sunroof to work but i want windows
Jacques Cousteau could never get this low
I'm not running dual 16s haha they are 12s?10s? I'd have to look again. not sure if that was directed at me or Benny.
this is good stuff
ULTIMATE DRIVING MACHINE
Yeah I was talking about Benny. He mentioned 2400 CFM for a 16" spal, and talked about fitting to of them. I didn't / don't think that's possible to fit. The rad isn't wide enough
Thanks Should have some more progress tomorrow night / Wednesday night. Bit too busy with school/work today to do anything (still at work now )
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Wow, Mike! Everything looks awesome. I can't believe I missed this thread. I thought your replies in Otis' thread were said in jest about the manifold and turbo.
This is my signature....
heh, nope! I sent him the manifold/wg and told him I wanted a twin scroll top mount T4 setup So far I'm VERY pleased with his work. If I did it again though, I would go with a 3.5" downpipe. the 4" is asking for trouble with heat management and it being so close to EVERYTHING. Good thing I have solid engine / trans/ everything mounts or I'd have problems with it bumping into stuff too
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
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