Yep, can't wait I've had 500whp and a 65mm turbo before (which will be laggier than this setup) and it was pretty easy to control sliding.. It hit hard at 4500 RPM with minimal before that) You're right though, this certainly isn't the best car for a noob, but I'm sure it'll be most entertaining for you guys on video
Yep, we'll see what happens!
-Mike
Well I've driven to 4 places today, and no one has M10x1.0 tees to hook up the two front brake lines to the master, and I can't find an M10x1.0 female union either to attach the rear line to the master. Even google searches don't seem to pinpoint links for these things...
If anyone has deleted their abs, where did you get your fittings? Links? I have a spare parts '92 325i that I think I'll pull the rear brake T off of just in front of the fuel tank and use that as my front T, but I would still need a union for the rear line to MC connection....
Minimal/ no progress so far today
-Mike
Looking online and still can't find an M10x1.0 3 way female tee to delete ABS with for the front lines. Also need an M10x1.0 female union for the rear line. Anyone know where to buy these?
Cut out the ABS wiring out of the harness today and figured out a couple things. Need to buy /make some sort of black plastic box to mount the fuse box and misc. wiring in, on the trans tunnel in the cabin since I can't mount the fuse box in the factory location. Minimal progress today, but anything is good I guess..
-Mike
Last edited by MauiM3Mania; 02-25-2012 at 11:33 AM. Reason: profanity
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Build is looking great! Glad to see you more involved with drifting! That 6765 will work well with a good twin scroll manifold. Do you plan on revving the car over 7200? Might be a little peaky still, like 4100 to 7200 rpm power band?
Also, the brake T's can be bought from bimmerworld IIRC.
I know you don't plan on being competitive, but just a reminder, that cage wont pass any national drifting series. Kind of silly, but they dont allow through the fire wall or foot protection bars.
Also, I am always here if you have any questions! And I will steal this car for a few laps to "test" and give "feedback"...
Yeah that's the plan chelsea! the powerband should be better than the SPA 7000M I had... and make gobs more power. Just 7200 rpm to keep it reliable
Bimmerworld? Awesome I'll give them a call... that's kind of a hold up on the front end because I don't want to put too much back and make that area inaccessible before those are done. That is silly about the cage, but no worries here. I'm just here to have fun
And yeah, you can surely take it out for a few laps
Also, what did you do with the soft lines that come off the brake fluid tank and normally go to the ABS pump? Just loop them to each other? Pics of your setup?
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Sorry I still have the pump in place, I just yanked out the ABS fuse, you can jumper the ABS harness to bleed the pump if you run it dry. Sorry I can't be more help there.
And WTF? FD rules don't allow for FOOT PROTECTION?!?!?!
what an ass backwards bunch of sh!t
Need to cut out the front mount on the subframe and have this CES bracket welded on to accept the 750 210mm diff, then all of the rear suspension/diff/subframe/brakes/etc. goes in! Hopefully I can get it welded up tomorrow (I can't weld )
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
bad ass.
Nice build Mike, how are you going to protect the coils and valve cover from the heat? Looks pretty close in those pictures.
Glad to see this shell finally getting parts bolted to it. I've been following m3muscle's build for a while - glad to see you continue the process.
I'd advise HIGHLY against running without ABS. Three points:
- Even the track guys will admit ABS lowers lap times. Period.
- I've written off a turbo m3 before due to locking up the tires during a panic stop. You've already written one car off too - don't fubar another chassis :/
- You can relocate the ABS with minimal effort. The LS1 guys in 'engine conversions' forums just move the unit forward on the framerail and run a few short pieces of brake line. Alternately, you can move the ABS in cabin - as some of the track guys have - just using normal 4AN braided lines. This allows you to use things like Tilton pedals or easily tap in a linelock or adjustable bias knob.
The adhesive foils (DEI 'gold'/'silver') seems to do a good job. Other alternatives such as nomex plug wire boots (just repurpose them) or even Kapton tape.
WTF does this part go? Something to do with diff conversion?
Anyways, more pictures
Last edited by fritzintn; 09-20-2011 at 02:21 PM.
SOLD -A dozen ///M3s of all shapes
ABS is definitely a plus for track/hpde duty, but not at all for drifting....gotta check the section you're in homeboy!
F ABS, I've had mine disabled for 3 years and my current car as well. Its only and issue if you can't threshold brake which really if you've ever driven a car older than 1990 in the rain you should know how to do anyways.
its a F'ing band aid
Last edited by Piner; 09-20-2011 at 03:38 PM. Reason: *Edited so i won't get banned again*
I will be wrapping the downpipe, run a turbo blanket, and DEI / other reflective foil wrap, as well as an ignition heat shield
I hear you on the ABS for track use. Seeing as I want to get into drifting a bit, it is advised to not run it. I save weight, the wiring harness is thinner, and I learn to brake without it. I'm sure i'll flat spot a few tires on track, but it's part of the learning process.
(FYI my last car getting wrecked would've happened ABS or not, can't control drunk drivers - this car will be street driven VERY rarely if at all, so that is not an issue this time around)
The picture you quoted is the rear diff bracket from a Euro M3. It mounts to the back of the CES 750 diff and then where the bushings are bolt to the stock rear diff mounting location on the subframe. I'll have pictures tonight of everything assembled and back in the car, provided I can get the subframe modified and welded in the next few hours before class/work
Yep. It won't be all that bad on track either, because every time I hot lapped my black car and got into ABS a lot, bad stuff happened with the brakes cracked rotors, boiled fluid, etc. etc. I'll be taking the braking zones just 5-10% easier now and learn how to drive "like in the old days"
On another note, my manifold/downpipe/charge pipe should be done this weekend Which means I will have it sometime next week and can see if it still starts, or if I screwed something up
Can't wait to hear the new manifold and 4" open downpipe idle
-Mike
Spent some time at the machine shop today modifying the subframe for the 750 diff.... man... what a job. If you don't truly NEED a 210mm diff, I wouldn't do this upgrade IMO. Lots of work... I think I'd rather buy a euro subframe and just run the euro Evo M3 diff.. (but this is cheaper).
Got out of class and finally got home to eat dinner about 11:30 and was just going to write today off, but I got a second wind...
Rear end is rebuilt and complete. Ready to go back in and then the rear of the car will be done (aside from bleeding the brakes). Going to pick up some diff fluid tomorrow after work and I'll git r dun
-Mike
Cool, automerged double post even though the posts were on seperate days. NEATO bimmerforums!
-Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 09-21-2011 at 03:40 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Just ordered $550 worth of DEI products
-Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 09-21-2011 at 04:54 PM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
love that diff
Jacques Cousteau could never get this low
Well first major DERP moment of the build.... stripped the threaded part of the rear "spindle/hub" that the lower shock bolt goes into Gotta pull off the right rear. Also converted to E90 torx bolts and giant washers to prevent cupping of the subframe washers, and I don't have a torx socket big enough to torque them.... so gotta buy one in the morning. I think they're E18 or E20. Biggest I have is E16
Pics in a bit after I have the left side rtab/shock bolted.
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Thanks man! I sure hope I can do the shell justice. Collin did an awesome job with TONS of reinforcements (every one that I can think of available) and seam welding everything, etc.
Here are some pics from tonight
Probably no progress tomorrow other than torquing the subframe bolts once I buy the socket, since I have a midterm tomorrow night and need to cram. I'll be working on friday, then heading to dallas/ft.worth with my girlfriend for XDC on Saturday Progress will be minimal this weekend since another midterm on tuesday. I hope to be able to get all the hydraulic lines (brake fittings, clutch line both to MC hooked up, get the dash fitted (I trimmed it a ton tonight - more than I wanted to but HAD to since the dash bar/window bars are pretty extensive... basically had to cut the dash in half and then some... ) , and fab/bolt up my fuse box holder bracket that I'm doing to mount the fuse box to the dash bar. Also need to order some small conduit to hide / clean up the fuel pump and tail light wiring going to the rear of the car.
Turbo/manifold/downpipe/wastegate will be back in my possession next week, so I *should* be able to give her the first start next weekend...
Depending on how long Sean L takes for the angle stuff, I may just throw on my current LCA and Tie rods just to drive it to get it inspected, have a windshield put in, etc. until his stuff is ready.
I guess that's it for now!
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
So can you change the diff fluid with it in the car? That diff looks like more of a pan than it's worth.
It pretty much is. I have no idea about changing the fluid. I filled it up with fresh 85w140 and hope I don't have to change it any time soon, but with all solid mounts and everything.... all the suspension will probably get pulled off a few times a year any way for inspection / replacement... since I don't think solid mounts / bearings everywhere are designed to last forever.
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Originally Posted by Fender13Bender
What's the plan with the black car then?
build continued in drifting section. check there for updates. no plans for black shell at the moment.
Great looking build. Just curious as to why you did all the work to the black shell after it was hit, just to swap to the white one?
And updates on the fender flares? Who could I contact about them?
Matt, I wasn't pleased with the bodywork on the black car and decided to just do an "all out" e36 build instead of going halfway on things trying to keep the car streetable. The white one will only be street driven on very rare ocassions, and not daily driven, so I can add a lot more solid mounts, bearings , etc. In the suspension and make the car a lot lighter. Ill also be cranking the boost up a bunch since it only has to live through 10-15 events a year now instead of daily driving all the time, so I won't feel too bad if blows a hg or something else.
-Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Crank...the...boost...up? Wasn't it like 500whp in the black car? That more than you'll need for high level drift competition lol.
Engine reliability is a key in drifting also a balance car, by looking at your project you are going to have some issues for sure down the road, not being negative or anything but you should take notes on the things people are saying here.
good luck and have a blast!.
Yeah I realize... I just want to build something crazy. I'll probably start at wastegate boost and ~400 rwhp just to feel out the car and learn what I'm doing.. then crank it! No point in all these reinforcements if I'm not going to do some 5th gear rollies and other stupid stuff
I'm DD'ing a TRM stage 1 E34 525i touring right now. 300whp/300wtq @ 8psi on a 163k mile M50TU
Well, I'm friends with chelsea denofa, and his M3 seems to be working just fine with a stock diff, stock axles, 500whp, and lots of abuse. I consider my car somewhat "overbuilt" compared to his, so I think i'll be just fine in the reliability department.
No progress this weekend since I scrambled and found chelsea a spare ZF gearbox on friday and drove to dallas for a 3 AM trans swap so he could win the XDC championship today, so progress will resume on wednesday after my next midterm.
Next up:
-build cradle for fuse box to mount to dash bar
-attach rear bumper and diffuser
-install ABS pump from spare parts car with custom brackets ( just to make the lines simple and not have to scramble to find brake T's and other random custom crap. I'll just make brackets and mount the pump, and plug all the lines into it. All the ABS wiring is cut out of the harness already so it will just function as anyone else's E36 drift car with just the ABS fuse pulled.)
-assemble brake/clutch pedal assembly and install
-install intake manifold and TB, and throttle cable
-find resistor / wiring setup for custom fuel level gauge to incorporate into MXL, or seperate autometer or something so I can totally get rid of the stock cluster.
-install driveshaft
-install front suspension/LCA/tie rods temporarily (while I'm waiting on Sean Love's angle kit... I feel I can have the car running and driveable before his kit is ready/here so I might as well go ahead and do it.)
-order custom giant griffin radiator
-install CES aluminum expansion tank and run lines to/from rad
That's about it for the next major wave of crap. Still need to pull the right rear hub and tap it since I fubar'd the threads on the lower shock mount... but that shouldn't take more than a couple hours. Progress will resume next wednesday evening!
-Mike
-Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 09-25-2011 at 06:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
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