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Thread: DIY: E46 320d m47n injector cleaning

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    France
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    My Cars
    2003 E46 320D Touring

    DIY: E46 320d m47n injector cleaning

    Car: BMW E46 320D 150 HP february 2003 (I think the cars built after this date have slightly different engines: they added a particle filter, an oxygen sensor, different injectors all this making the car a EURO4)
    Injector: BOSCH 0 445 110 131 (0445110131)

    Recently I had a problem with one of the injectors. I googled for a tutorial but I didn't find any specific to this car/injector model, so I decided to write one. There is a tutorial on a finnish forum but the injector he's rebuilding is slighty different. However it inspired me very much.

    In this tutorial I will only cover the injector DIY. There are other threads explaining how to take out the cabin filter box, the intake manifold / EGR valve and other plastic parts that may be in your way.

    If you suspect having a bad injector there are three simple tests to do:

    1st test) The well known leak off test:
    It consists in measuring the leak flow of each injector. You can do all the injectors at the same time by collecting the return leaks in separate jars. Or you can do it one by one as I did. You don't want to obtain leak quantities that differ by a factor of more than 3. Here are the results I got at idle:
    injector 1: 37.4 ml/min
    injector 2: 14.1 ml/min
    injector 3: 18 ml/min
    injector 4: 7.7 ml/min
    So injector 1 is leaking 37.4 / 7.7 ~ 4.9 times more than injector 4. Injector 3 is leaking 18 / 7.7 ~ 2.3 times more than injector 4. While injector 3 is still OK, injector 1 is very sick.

    2nd test) Diagnostics software:
    I used BMW - INPA and a OBD cable to check the "Selective mass adjustment". As far as I know this engine is equipped with sensors monitoring the unbalance seen by the crankshaft. This unbalance can be caused by several factors one of them being 1 or more faulty injectors. Ass you see in the picture below it seems to be a problem with the 1st and the 3rd cylinder which corresponds with the leak off test results.



    3rd test) Disconnecting the injectors one by one (not recommended):
    As the idle was very rough (it seemed that one cylinder wasn't firing) I proceeded to this third test which consists in removing the electrical connection of each injector and observing the engine behaviour. I noticed there was no change when I disconnected the 1st injector. If you decide to do this test you MUST stop the engine before disconnecting the plug or something bad could happen.

    As all the three tests pointed to the 1st injector being faulty I decided to take it apart.
    The most important aspect of this job is cleanliness. Take special care when reassembling the injector, try to avoid fluffy cloths and any other source of particles that may get inside and clog the injector or cause premature wear.

    Tools needed:
    Ultrasonic cleaning bath + solvent
    8 mm socket (for the two nuts holding the injector flange)
    17 mm wrench (for the piping) there is a special piping wrench but you don't really need it.
    5? mm allen key (pipe clip)
    29 mm wrench (injector head/solenoid)
    10 mm allen key (ball valve retaining nut)
    16 mm wrench (nozzle retaining nut)
    torque wrench(es) (from 5 to 60Nm)
    For this injector model you don't need the special "LASER" 10 mm allen key with a hole in the middle (I wish I knew that before buying it).

    Spare parts needed:
    Copper washer (must replace it)
    Composite joint + metal ring (strongly recommended)
    External o-ring (optional)
    Ball (optional)





    There is a repair kit sold by KDIESEL (MONEA, ITALY) containing all the above items. However judging by the appearance of the ball (surface, texture, color) it seemed to be made of ceramic. This makes it more wear resistant. I used a pocket microscope to examine the ball surface and I found it was in perfect shape (no trace of wear).

    What to do:
    First, using compressed air, blow all the dirt away around the injector. Begin by removing the pressure line completely(from injector to rail). You may need a cloth as some fuel may spill. Remove the two 8 mm hex nuts holding the flange. The injector should be free to move now. I heard there are some stubborn injectors that won't come out easily. For this there are some special
    extracting tools, slide hammers, etc. I even saw people lifting their car by the injector itself to get it out. I don't recommend using this last method. However mine was pretty easy to extract. I had to move it several times in circle (as much as the flange permits) and pull it at the same time.

    Now you can take it apart. I began by removing the head/solenoid. Open it carefully as there are several small parts that may fall.

    Once you open it you will get this:



    Here you will find the following parts:



    Now you can take a look at the ball seat. It looks OK, no signs of heavy wear. Remove the nut using the 10 mm allen key. It was pretty tightened, I thought the allen key was gonna break:



    Once the nut removed, the ball seat and the command rod won't come out so easy. You have to tap the injector against a soft surface in order to remove them. I used a wooden block. Be careful not to damage the external thread. Here are the parts removed:



    After removing the ball seat and command rod there is still the composite seal that's stuck inside:



    To remove it you may use a blunt tool (plastic if possible). The idea is to avoid scratching the seaming surface of the injector body.

    Remove the copper washer by turning it using a pair of pliers. Next, remove the nozzle retaining nut using a 16 mm wrench. It's better to use a box end wrench instead of a open end wrench to avoid damaging the nut. As before, take care not to loose the small parts. Here is the nut removed:



    ... and what you'll get:





    The piston will come out easily. You can see it's slightly damaged. I hope the problem does not come from here:



    Now it's cleaning time. Put all metalic parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. 5 to 10 min should be enough depending on how dirty they are and the solvent you use. The most difficult to clean it's the nozzle. I used an ultrasonic bath with a soft solvent. The nozzle is pretty sensitive, so AVOID mechanical cleaning (brush, wire, etc). I also used compressed air to blow the dirt away:



    After 15 min of ultrasonic cleaning this is the spray pattern I got:



    You can see there are only five holes that work. So another 15 min of cleaning and blowing, to finally get the 6 holes working:



    Inner parts cleaned:



    Reassembly:
    Very useful informations could be found in "Testing_and_Repair_CRI.pdf":

    http://rapidshare.com/files/24124518...Repair_CRI.pdf

    or

    https://rs722tg.rapidshare.com/#!dow...AF33894735|0|0


    Beginning at page 51 there is the procedure for reassemblying the nozzle / retaining nut. At page 55 you will find the tightening procedure. I tried to follow it but I couldn't get the necessary angle without depassing the maximum torque so I just applied the torque.

    For the rest, the assembly procedure would be the reversal of disassembly. I used a drop of oil here and there to facilitate mounting. Before fitting the ball seat you have to put in the composite seal and it's metal ring at the bottom of the hole.The metal ring goes first, then the seal. Make sure the ring is in the correct position (inner edge bent towards the seal). You can push the seal using a cylindrical tool like a small socket or a pin-remover (not sure this is the name). Again take care not to scratch the sealing surface. When inserting the ball seat you have to push it pretty hard (don't forget the command rod). It's not necessary to push it all the way, you can just tighten the nut and this will push it. I cannot give you any torque values for the inside nut or the solenoid nut. Just put a little less torque than used for disassambly. I did it by feeling. When tightening solenoid nut make sure the orientation of the solenoid connector is correct (by looking at the other injectors). Before disassembly I advise you to make a small scratch on the solenoid body and the injector body to mark the solenoid position.

    Here is the assembled injector (don't forget the copper washer):



    Injector seat cleaning:
    I used a vacuum cleaner and a small plastic tube to remove most of the dirt from the injector seat.



    However it's impossible to remove all the dirt using this method, so I used a rag wrapped on a screwdriver with some solvent to clean the seat and the hole. Be very careful not to scratch the seat with the screwdriver.

    OK, now you can just put the injector back. When tightening the two 8 mm hex nuts you have to do it progressively, in order to keep the flange parallel with the injector seat (dont tighten too much on only one side). Next, put the pressure line back. Again, there is no official torque info on the pressure line nuts tightening. Be careful here, the torque needed is far LESS than you imagine. In order to approximately determine the right torque, I began to slowly tighten the other nuts (other injectors) that I hadn't touched just to make an idea of the torque they were tightened at. I tried to apply the same torque for the other nuts. If you have a dial indicator type torque wrench things are much simple. You can slowly tighten one of the nuts you haven't touched and see what is the torque at the moment when it begins to move. Put back the clip between the two pressure lines.

    Reassemble the intake, vacuum hoses, vacuum valves plugs, injectors electrical plugs, return lines, etc. Leave the cosmetic covers for later. Now start the car. I had to crank it for 5 to 10 sec as there was some air in the fuel rail / injector. Once started check for leaks. Retighten pressure line nuts if necessary. You may want to check for leaks again later. The engine should run smoother now. First thing I did was to check again the "selective mass adjustment" using INPA to see if something changed:



    It certainly changed.

    I didn't do the leak-off test again since the above results were satisfatory and the engine was running a lot better.

    Well that's about all I did, hope it's useful for somebody.

    Cheers.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Brasov, Romania
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    2003 E46 320dA
    great post, I wish I would have found it sooner

    I just had my injectors repaired by a car service. I had ~good idle, but INPA showed heavy adjustments +max on inj3 and -5 on inj4 when full throttle

    I guess they didn't do the job as well as you did, because i fear my idle is a bit worse now, INPA showing -0.7, -0.7, +0.4 and +1.06. Should I be worried about inj4?

    But on full throttle they remain ~same, so at least that's a good thing

    I wonder if after cleaning injectors we should do some adapting on ECU?
    I wonder what change IMA is...
    PS: well, change IMA is change injector adjustment. But I wonder how does it work...
    Last edited by 4EST; 10-18-2011 at 05:11 PM.

  3. #3
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    2003 E46 320D Touring
    Quote Originally Posted by 4EST View Post
    great post, I wish I would have found it sooner
    this is my first post, thanks

    I just had my injectors repaired by a car service. I had ~good idle, but INPA showed heavy adjustments +max on inj3 and -5 on inj4 when full throttle
    Do you know what were the values at idle?

    I guess they didn't do the job as well as you did, because i fear my idle is a bit worse now, INPA showing -0.7, -0.7, +0.4 and +1.06. Should I be worried about inj4?
    Judging by these values everything seems fine to me. Inj4 went from -5 to 1, thats a big difference. I think +1 is fine.
    Were the injectors just cleaned or repaired (some parts changed). Maybe they recoded the ECU !?

    Idle problems can have many causes like EGR, air flowmeter, etc.


    But on full throttle they remain ~same, so at least that's a good thing

    I wonder if after cleaning injectors we should do some adapting on ECU?
    When Bosch repairs injectors they usually change parts like the nozzle, piston, etc. In this case the injector's parameters change. They are measured and a new code is generated. Cleaning the injector doesn't usually affect the calibration so no need to reprogram the ECU

    I wonder what change IMA is...
    PS: well, change IMA is change injector adjustment. But I wonder how does it work...
    As far as I know the injector codes contain data like pressure and flow rates at different command frequencies, etc.

    I reprogrammed the ECU with other codes while the engine was running and nothing happened. Then I stopped the engine and try to start again. It cranked but it wouldn't start. So I just put the old values back and everything was OK.

    Cheers.


    Quote Originally Posted by 4EST View Post
    great post, I wish I would have found it sooner

    I just had my injectors repaired by a car service. I had ~good idle, but INPA showed heavy adjustments +max on inj3 and -5 on inj4 when full throttle

    I guess they didn't do the job as well as you did, because i fear my idle is a bit worse now, INPA showing -0.7, -0.7, +0.4 and +1.06. Should I be worried about inj4?

    But on full throttle they remain ~same, so at least that's a good thing

    I wonder if after cleaning injectors we should do some adapting on ECU?
    I wonder what change IMA is...
    PS: well, change IMA is change injector adjustment. But I wonder how does it work...
    I've just seen you have an auto-transmission. I heard automatics have idle problems more often than manuals. It's somehow connected to the gearbox

    Bafta.
    Last edited by Automihai; 10-23-2011 at 04:44 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Brasov, Romania
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    2003 E46 320dA
    they did repair the injectors, but gave me no calibration codes, and when asked by me, they said "this engine does not require calibrated injectors". So they either lied, or didn't know, either way, it's bad for them

    actually the injectors were repaired by another company (in Sinaia), I'll go ask them if they can give me new calibrated codes

    Since my last post I removed the engine cover, and discovered that some of the screws were missing (holding cables, hoses), injectors were remounted in a random order (this was confirmed by the car service), and I belive the engine cover was incorrectly mounted

    I reprogrammed the ECU injector calibration codes using INPA WHILE the engine was OFF (ignition on), and engine started after that. I recommend you do the same, it should work
    After properly remounting the plastic engine cover, I have much less vibration at idle. Now is this because of reprogramming ECU, or because of the plastic cover, I don't know or care

    Clearly for me, the car service manager was/is somewhat incompetent and they did a poor job of reassembling the top of the engine, I would have done a much better job, and I have no training in this

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    France
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    2003 E46 320D Touring
    So, to keep you informed.....

    When I did the injector cleaning the car mileage was approx 245k (km). Today it reached 309k. Here is an image of the INPA adjustments:

    farm9.staticflickr.com/8085/8436627164_a9bee714be_z.jpg

    Sorry, couldn't insert the image nor create a link to it, the forum doesn't allow for it (cause I'm a newbie). So just copy/paste the link above.

    Cheers.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Belgium
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    525d E39
    That looks good! Thanks for the update.
    I'm looking forward to do this DIY myself at a M57 engine.

  7. #7
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    France
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    2003 E46 320D Touring
    Hi there.

    Do you know what should be the minimum and maximum outflow of fuel from the injector?

    In my car is:

    1. 10 ml / min (-0.5 / 0.0 mg / hub)
    2. 13.5 ml / min (0.0 / 1.4 mg / hub)
    3. 10 ml / min (-0.5 / 0.0 mg / hub)
    4. 11,5 ml / min (-0.5 / 0.0 mg / hub)

    Regards Kris
    Man, I wish I had that on my car. I have no idea about the official values but I know the values you have are not bad ( they are rather very good ). Why do I say they're good? Look at the correction factors: 0.5 , 1.4 , that's nothing. Look at the correction factors I had before cleaning: over 5. In my opinion if it goes over 3 mg/hub then you can start asking yourself questions. Another good thing is that the values are close to each other, so the injectors seem equally worn.

    By the way what's your car's mileage?

    PS: I like your measuring setup.

    Cheers,
    Cris.

  8. #8
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    Aug 2010
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    e46 M47N 2003
    Soon will be 260,000 kilometers.

  9. #9
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    Denmark
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    Bmw 530D Touring 2002
    Thanks for This post, i was trinh to Open The link how to reassamply The injector but with no luck, anybody hawing a copy
    or nowing ejere to find it?

    thanks

  10. #10
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    Poland
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    e46 M47N 2003

  11. #11
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    e46 M47N 2003
    .
    Last edited by krzysiek80r; 05-31-2013 at 12:39 AM.

  12. #12
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    Somebody else asked me about that file and I know I was able to find it on a russian site. Try to google for it (I know you tried but try harder ). I will try to find it myself and then I'll post the link. Or if you find it before me you can post the link if you like.
    Cheers.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Found it:
    https://www.google.fr/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=6&ved=0CDcQFjAF&url=http%3A %2F%2Fwww.autorepairmanuals.ws%2Ff172%2Ftesting-repair-bosch-cri-6460%2F&ei=lqenUeHlGOGu7AaUroCoCw&usg=AFQjCNGacimC 4tXDK43qVgF98pBlC_7Htg
    You will need to create an account and then you can access the file. I couldn't actually save it because it's displayed in a shitty web viewer...
    Good luck and keep us informed ( post some pictures if possible)
    Cheers.

  13. #13
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    2003 E46 320D Touring
    Just wanted to keep you posted, now the car has 340.000 km on the clock, everything seems to be ok, no signs of injector problems.
    Cheers

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    2003 E46 320D Touring
    355k : a vibration appeared (at idle ). I suspected of course the injectors but INPA only shows small amounts of correction. It could be the DMF (dual mass flywheel). Waiting for the clutch to die then change everything.
    Cheers.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Trutnov, Czech republic
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    E46 320D 2004, 110kW
    Hello, i know this item is no more actual, but can you post(if you ever read) the sizes of copper washers, composite joint + metal ring, external o-ring and the ball?
    Thanks a lot.

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Solution82 View Post
    Hello, i know this item is no more actual, but can you post(if you ever read) the sizes of copper washers, composite joint + metal ring, external o-ring and the ball?
    Thanks a lot.
    Sure, no problem, i'll try to do that this weekend.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
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    Madrid, Spain
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    2002 BMW 320d 150hp
    Thanks for this diy.
    One question,
    We can clean the body of the injector in the ultrasonic cleaner?

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    cork. ireland
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    1998 E39 525tds

    injectors e46 320d m47tu / t2

    hi ya autoihai, how you doing.?


    i seen your injector strip down & rebuild for the e46 320d. (was it a 2003).


    can i ask you for a bit of help please...?


    i had a diesel pump problem the other day. (my pump is the 7788670.. m47tu / t2).
    i'm a member of another site, but i can across your injector page so i thought you may be a man to ask..


    i started a thread on a site ....http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...-pump-t318841/


    i have done the work on the pump & replaced it to the car..put all the car back together but she wont start up.


    i have good fuel going through the fuel pipes to the injectors, but im not sure the injectors are let fuel in.


    are the injectors coded.?


    i have not taken or replaced the injectors.
    i have not removed the plug /s going to the injectors.
    fuel is in fuel pipes upto the injectors,
    fuel is in the return lines.


    when i try start car there only white smoke. (to me water or head problem, but theres no symptoms, all is ok) theres no black smoke - un burnt fuel or like all diesels give when start up,. no blue smoke - oil.


    is there a relay or fuse to the injectors.?
    if i have not removed or replaced my injectors, why would they need re-coding to let fuel pass through.?


    can you help me please.

    if you need another information what i done or why the pump repair please ask.


    cheers mate, i hope you dont mind me asking.


    cheers..

  19. #19
    Join Date
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    E65
    Hi,very nice thread. I'm trying to clean my injector too at a m57n engine. The thing is,in Inpa and Ista d the corrections are 0.5 to all but if I accelerate then 2 injectors go on the red max side... at idle I have a vibration too hope it's not the flywheel(automatic transmission ). ??Mersi mult!

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
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    Netherlands
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    330CD
    Quote Originally Posted by Serr View Post
    Hi,very nice thread. I'm trying to clean my injector too at a m57n engine. The thing is,in Inpa and Ista d the corrections are 0.5 to all but if I accelerate then 2 injectors go on the red max side... at idle I have a vibration too hope it's not the flywheel(automatic transmission ). ??Mersi mult!
    Automatic transmissions don't have the flywheel issue's because they don't have an Dual Mass Flywheel (only manual cars have them)
    As far for the injectors on full load, this may be a worn injector. What's your mileage? And how is your hot engine start?

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Europe
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    E65
    Ok,then no flywheel to my car.
    200.000 miles.
    My start is perfect when hot. Even when cold. I just have a vibration just at idle and poor mpg.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
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    Hoorn, The Netherlands
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    2003 E46 320d 150 bhp
    Do you recall or does someone know what the threat is of the NUt this will be removed with the Allen Key 10?
    See the picture below.

    I like to be on the save side in case the injector will not come out easily and I have to use a slide hammer to take it out.
    When I know the thread size I can have the tool ready.

    Thanks,





    Quote Originally Posted by Automihai View Post
    Car: BMW E46 320D 150 HP february 2003 (I think the cars built after this date have slightly different engines: they added a particle filter, an oxygen sensor, different injectors all this making the car a EURO4)
    Injector: BOSCH 0 445 110 131 (0445110131)

    Recently I had a problem with one of the injectors. I googled for a tutorial but I didn't find any specific to this car/injector model, so I decided to write one. There is a tutorial on a finnish forum but the injector he's rebuilding is slighty different. However it inspired me very much.

    In this tutorial I will only cover the injector DIY. There are other threads explaining how to take out the cabin filter box, the intake manifold / EGR valve and other plastic parts that may be in your way.

    If you suspect having a bad injector there are three simple tests to do:

    1st test) The well known leak off test:
    It consists in measuring the leak flow of each injector. You can do all the injectors at the same time by collecting the return leaks in separate jars. Or you can do it one by one as I did. You don't want to obtain leak quantities that differ by a factor of more than 3. Here are the results I got at idle:
    injector 1: 37.4 ml/min
    injector 2: 14.1 ml/min
    injector 3: 18 ml/min
    injector 4: 7.7 ml/min
    So injector 1 is leaking 37.4 / 7.7 ~ 4.9 times more than injector 4. Injector 3 is leaking 18 / 7.7 ~ 2.3 times more than injector 4. While injector 3 is still OK, injector 1 is very sick.

    2nd test) Diagnostics software:
    I used BMW - INPA and a OBD cable to check the "Selective mass adjustment". As far as I know this engine is equipped with sensors monitoring the unbalance seen by the crankshaft. This unbalance can be caused by several factors one of them being 1 or more faulty injectors. Ass you see in the picture below it seems to be a problem with the 1st and the 3rd cylinder which corresponds with the leak off test results.



    3rd test) Disconnecting the injectors one by one (not recommended):
    As the idle was very rough (it seemed that one cylinder wasn't firing) I proceeded to this third test which consists in removing the electrical connection of each injector and observing the engine behaviour. I noticed there was no change when I disconnected the 1st injector. If you decide to do this test you MUST stop the engine before disconnecting the plug or something bad could happen.

    As all the three tests pointed to the 1st injector being faulty I decided to take it apart.
    The most important aspect of this job is cleanliness. Take special care when reassembling the injector, try to avoid fluffy cloths and any other source of particles that may get inside and clog the injector or cause premature wear.

    Tools needed:
    Ultrasonic cleaning bath + solvent
    8 mm socket (for the two nuts holding the injector flange)
    17 mm wrench (for the piping) there is a special piping wrench but you don't really need it.
    5? mm allen key (pipe clip)
    29 mm wrench (injector head/solenoid)
    10 mm allen key (ball valve retaining nut)
    16 mm wrench (nozzle retaining nut)
    torque wrench(es) (from 5 to 60Nm)
    For this injector model you don't need the special "LASER" 10 mm allen key with a hole in the middle (I wish I knew that before buying it).

    Spare parts needed:
    Copper washer (must replace it)
    Composite joint + metal ring (strongly recommended)
    External o-ring (optional)
    Ball (optional)





    There is a repair kit sold by KDIESEL (MONEA, ITALY) containing all the above items. However judging by the appearance of the ball (surface, texture, color) it seemed to be made of ceramic. This makes it more wear resistant. I used a pocket microscope to examine the ball surface and I found it was in perfect shape (no trace of wear).

    What to do:
    First, using compressed air, blow all the dirt away around the injector. Begin by removing the pressure line completely(from injector to rail). You may need a cloth as some fuel may spill. Remove the two 8 mm hex nuts holding the flange. The injector should be free to move now. I heard there are some stubborn injectors that won't come out easily. For this there are some special
    extracting tools, slide hammers, etc. I even saw people lifting their car by the injector itself to get it out. I don't recommend using this last method. However mine was pretty easy to extract. I had to move it several times in circle (as much as the flange permits) and pull it at the same time.

    Now you can take it apart. I began by removing the head/solenoid. Open it carefully as there are several small parts that may fall.

    Once you open it you will get this:



    Here you will find the following parts:



    Now you can take a look at the ball seat. It looks OK, no signs of heavy wear. Remove the nut using the 10 mm allen key. It was pretty tightened, I thought the allen key was gonna break:



    Once the nut removed, the ball seat and the command rod won't come out so easy. You have to tap the injector against a soft surface in order to remove them. I used a wooden block. Be careful not to damage the external thread. Here are the parts removed:



    After removing the ball seat and command rod there is still the composite seal that's stuck inside:



    To remove it you may use a blunt tool (plastic if possible). The idea is to avoid scratching the seaming surface of the injector body.

    Remove the copper washer by turning it using a pair of pliers. Next, remove the nozzle retaining nut using a 16 mm wrench. It's better to use a box end wrench instead of a open end wrench to avoid damaging the nut. As before, take care not to loose the small parts. Here is the nut removed:



    ... and what you'll get:





    The piston will come out easily. You can see it's slightly damaged. I hope the problem does not come from here:



    Now it's cleaning time. Put all metalic parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. 5 to 10 min should be enough depending on how dirty they are and the solvent you use. The most difficult to clean it's the nozzle. I used an ultrasonic bath with a soft solvent. The nozzle is pretty sensitive, so AVOID mechanical cleaning (brush, wire, etc). I also used compressed air to blow the dirt away:



    After 15 min of ultrasonic cleaning this is the spray pattern I got:



    You can see there are only five holes that work. So another 15 min of cleaning and blowing, to finally get the 6 holes working:



    Inner parts cleaned:



    Reassembly:
    Very useful informations could be found in "Testing_and_Repair_CRI.pdf":

    http://rapidshare.com/files/24124518...Repair_CRI.pdf

    or

    https://rs722tg.rapidshare.com/#!dow...AF33894735|0|0


    Beginning at page 51 there is the procedure for reassemblying the nozzle / retaining nut. At page 55 you will find the tightening procedure. I tried to follow it but I couldn't get the necessary angle without depassing the maximum torque so I just applied the torque.

    For the rest, the assembly procedure would be the reversal of disassembly. I used a drop of oil here and there to facilitate mounting. Before fitting the ball seat you have to put in the composite seal and it's metal ring at the bottom of the hole.The metal ring goes first, then the seal. Make sure the ring is in the correct position (inner edge bent towards the seal). You can push the seal using a cylindrical tool like a small socket or a pin-remover (not sure this is the name). Again take care not to scratch the sealing surface. When inserting the ball seat you have to push it pretty hard (don't forget the command rod). It's not necessary to push it all the way, you can just tighten the nut and this will push it. I cannot give you any torque values for the inside nut or the solenoid nut. Just put a little less torque than used for disassambly. I did it by feeling. When tightening solenoid nut make sure the orientation of the solenoid connector is correct (by looking at the other injectors). Before disassembly I advise you to make a small scratch on the solenoid body and the injector body to mark the solenoid position.

    Here is the assembled injector (don't forget the copper washer):



    Injector seat cleaning:
    I used a vacuum cleaner and a small plastic tube to remove most of the dirt from the injector seat.



    However it's impossible to remove all the dirt using this method, so I used a rag wrapped on a screwdriver with some solvent to clean the seat and the hole. Be very careful not to scratch the seat with the screwdriver.

    OK, now you can just put the injector back. When tightening the two 8 mm hex nuts you have to do it progressively, in order to keep the flange parallel with the injector seat (dont tighten too much on only one side). Next, put the pressure line back. Again, there is no official torque info on the pressure line nuts tightening. Be careful here, the torque needed is far LESS than you imagine. In order to approximately determine the right torque, I began to slowly tighten the other nuts (other injectors) that I hadn't touched just to make an idea of the torque they were tightened at. I tried to apply the same torque for the other nuts. If you have a dial indicator type torque wrench things are much simple. You can slowly tighten one of the nuts you haven't touched and see what is the torque at the moment when it begins to move. Put back the clip between the two pressure lines.

    Reassemble the intake, vacuum hoses, vacuum valves plugs, injectors electrical plugs, return lines, etc. Leave the cosmetic covers for later. Now start the car. I had to crank it for 5 to 10 sec as there was some air in the fuel rail / injector. Once started check for leaks. Retighten pressure line nuts if necessary. You may want to check for leaks again later. The engine should run smoother now. First thing I did was to check again the "selective mass adjustment" using INPA to see if something changed:



    It certainly changed.

    I didn't do the leak-off test again since the above results were satisfatory and the engine was running a lot better.

    Well that's about all I did, hope it's useful for somebody.

    Cheers.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Hoorn, The Netherlands
    Posts
    7
    My Cars
    2003 E46 320d 150 bhp
    Quote Originally Posted by RobertJB66 View Post
    Do you recall or does someone know what the threat is of the NUt this will be removed with the Allen Key 10?
    See the picture below.

    I like to be on the save side in case the injector will not come out easily and I have to use a slide hammer to take it out.
    When I know the thread size I can have the tool ready.

    Thanks,

    I was able to get the injector out of the car and opened it up for cleaning.
    We cleaned the injector and put it back together.
    The spray was ok of the injector but the flow of overrun was the same as before.
    In the end, we swapped the injector for a used injector will lower millage and now all injectors have the same overrun.
    A ticking noise when accelerating has gone as well.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Posts
    6
    My Cars
    E91 2010 318D
    Hi, I have opened up a replacement Bosch injector for cleaning it in an ultrasonic bath before replacing the one injector which gives me error codes. In the process of it I have lost the B16? lift shim (tiny tiny disc). I have ordered a box with different thicknesses replacement shims. Can anybody help with:

    1. Send a new link to the Repair CRI PDF document? All the existing links have gone offline.
    2. If the info is not there, how can I determine which thickness lift shim I need to put back in? Also, what is the correct torque for the nozzle holder?

    thx

    Schermafbeelding 2020-07-09 om 20.44.46.png
    Last edited by lrklrk; 07-10-2020 at 06:22 PM.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    kiel
    Posts
    97
    My Cars
    323ci e46
    does someone have the file Testing_and_Repair_CRI PDF ?

    please upload or send a pn i will upload

    Gesendet von meinem SM-G930F mit Tapatalk

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