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Thread: Cabin fuel smell & E31 fuel ventilation system

  1. #1
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    Cabin fuel smell & E31 fuel ventilation system

    I think major reason why P/O was selling car was because of fuel leak under rear pass seat and gasoline smell in the cabin. Well, rear suspension needs rebuild also, I'm not sure if he knew about that - but that for next posts.



    Here's my little story of getting rid of that. Initially I was lazy just relied on web wisdom and wasted $0.5K on fuel pump assembly + seal.




    Pics of real brand new parts:





    Filled car with 1/3rd tank full - drove around fine, 1/2 tank full more driving - fine....., 2/3 full more driving - fine ... full her up and more driving NO SMELL!!!

    Next morning - garage stinked gasoline, plus huge puddle under the car


    In hurry I pumped out 5 gals of gasoline. While doing that I noticed gasoline fume stream from filler pipe when I opened gas cap - extra pressure in the tank. But was in the hurry to think about it. Then I thought that plastic nut needs to be tied a bit more - screw driver + hammer made it very tight. Drove it again - fine no smell. Left parked, very hot here 100+ in TX.

    Back in the car - cabin stinked gasoline, plus puddle under the car

    I read about "micro cracks" in fuel assembly, "cracked tanks", misplaced gaskets etc etc. BUT - it leaks from the brand new gasket. When you look at gasket you understand that it was DESIGNED to leak under big pressure. I guess to prevent plastic tank explosion at expense of gasoline leak....

    Long story short - gas tank ventilation is bad. Here's journey to find blocking component. Starting in engine compartment:




    Check valves #1 and hoses. In my case hoses 3 & 4 been totally backed:






    Valves been ok. But cracked hoses can not make gas tank ventilation to be stuck - not reason, I just replaced them. Next goes charcoal canister:




    Blow air in to entry pipe of canister - no blockage. No suspect.

    Next - suspect valve #20:





    It is located in rear pass wheel opening ( remove plastic):


    and one line goes in to gas tank, upper goes to charcoal canister:




    Easy test. Disconnect rubber hose from valve and blow air in to it. To do this test will take about 30mins time.

    Valve was blocked that was it -

    I do not remember exact price - about $40. No stupidly spent $$$ for perfectly working fuel pump assembly, no "micro cracks", no excuses.



    Oleg Perelet
    Last edited by perelet; 08-29-2011 at 11:56 PM.

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    not enough
    thanks for the FYI...hopefully during the winter I'll be redoing some fuel and vacuum hoses in my engine bay and I'll re-fill my charcoal canister. I sometimes get the fuel smell too. I'll keep this in mind and do it at the same time.
    CB42366 - 1991 850i 6-speed. Brilliantrot & Black Nappa Leather
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  4. #4
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    These are the types of posts that really impress me. The E31 can sometimes be intimidating to even consider working on. Then someone in our community comes along and clearly shows a way to troubleshoot and repair a system. And then it becomes easy.

    Thanks.
    LouM...

  5. #5
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    Few months passed and I'm filling up car with no worries. All this time I kept cover off and watched fuel pump assembly. Here is one finishing touch.

    Because leak there was for awhile gasoline dissolved/corroded plastic covers on electrical wire ends.




    And wires felt loose. One time my wife got stuck cause fuel pump wire got disconnected. Turns out that BMW has right watertight wire ends here's part number:




    here's connector with new ends:



    That's it.

    Past 2 months I was working on my 911. Soon I'll get chance to do rebuild rear suspension on 8. It took 1 month to special order ball joint tools from Germany. Will post pics then. Happy new year!

    Oleg.

  6. #6
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    i should rebuild my connectors too, mine had a pretty steady gas leak from the main pump seal. I was lucky enough to solve it with a new seal, but having puddles of fuel sitting around those connectors has not done them any good.
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  7. #7
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    Oleg--
    Please share the part numbers you purchased...

    I need to rebuild my FP connectors.
    I can't find the specific parts on real OEM for the E31, but it seems the connector housing is likely: This part, 61 131 378 410
    And your parts bag show.. 61 130 007 441, which is a generic repair kit. Is there only 2 wires in your connector, or is it just the angle?

    Thanks!
    Last edited by shogun; 11-04-2019 at 07:24 PM.

    '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!

  8. #8
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    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...54&hg=61&fg=15 no 1 is the wire, and you have the right part no for connector.
    Last edited by shogun; 11-04-2019 at 07:24 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by duje View Post
    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...54&hg=61&fg=15
    no 1 is the wire, and you have the right part no for connector.
    Thanks a bunch...

    For those troubleshooting fuel/no start problems...
    I stuck a jumper wire between a 30A fuse and a fuel pump fuse. Under my back seat, no noise could be heard. A little wiggle and the pump spun up, confirming the bad connection / connector.

    It's important to note that a crappy connection manifests itself as a high resistance.
    1) When the car/battery is cold, it might have trouble getting the initial current needed to 'start' the fuel pumps (Let's say 15-20A), especially since the voltage at the pumps may drop down to ~9V during cranking
    2a) Once running, it may only take 5-7A to keep the pumps turning...
    2b) Additionally, the extra ~2V provided by a running engine makes it easier for the current to overcome the added resistance which is why this problem typically manifests itself on start/restart
    3) ... However, a sufficient bump/jar could work it loose while in motion, causing your car to stall, and likely throwing a nuisance CEL as the DME tries to figure out WTF happened

    Moral of the story...
    If you find yourself stranded somewhere... With the car off,
    --Grab a 3" piece of jumper wire and jumper the fuel pump fuse(s) to a nearby 30A fuse.
    --You should hear the EBox fan spin up (The ETM will explain this phenomenon), but you should also hear fuel passing through the fuel pressure regulator
    --A partner should also be able to hear the pump if he/she places their head on the right rear seat.
    --Repeat for the second pump, then don't forget to put your jumper wire back in the glove box where it belongs. (It is also used to reset the oil service light, silly)
    --If you don't hear it running, pop up the rear seat and move it out of the way (Wait, you actually have your rear seat screwed in!) Pull the fuel pump cover off and press on the connector while you turn the key to start.

    If it starts, get it home and order the parts!

    3x 61 130 007 441 Terminals
    1x 61 131 378 410 Connector
    Last edited by EEDegreeToDrive; 02-11-2012 at 07:40 PM.

  10. #10
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    I had the same problem few weeks ago, I drove the car all day and next morning no start, opened the hood to check fuses, dk's buzzing, everything ok. I can't hear the pumps buzzing, because I replaced them, and new pumps are too silent. I removed the rear seat and unhooked the connector and on the instrument there was 12,6V, put back the connector and started the car normally. Just to be sure I wiggled the connector and the idle changed and car stopped again. New connector and wires solved the problem.

  11. #11
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    this post is going to help alot of 8ers, thanks for busting your asses to keep us all in the game! I am new to this forum and am luvin it. makes me more confident to drive an 8 every day.

  12. #12
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    Hi, I have been having similar issues, there is no smell when my car runs, but after I let it sit there is a strong smell of gasoline. The main breather valve was in great condition (before I blew it up retesting it). I am stumped, it just doesn't seem to make sense.

  13. #13
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    Cadillacwill, first try to locate where it leaks. Then you may think why it leaks. No brainer - do what every e31 owner does - yank out rear seats, open both floor covers and monitor/watch fuel pump assembly and fuel lines there. Notice back pressure when you open gas tank in the morning. Study fuel delivery path and check every part of it.

    As part of routine I also replaced valve o-rings and fuel lines in engine compartement, none of them leaked in my case, but ymmv.

    Oleg

  14. #14
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    I've been having same problem with gas smell inside and outside of car. Started noticing when opened door after driving (seemed to be coming from just below doors) and now notice in car while driving sometimes and always when sunroof is open. Does that give clue to where problem likely is? Not constant or consistent and no leaks on ground.

  15. #15
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    When yours was leaking due to excess pressure, did gas get inside the bowl of the carrier or just around the gasket itself?

  16. #16
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    I replaced mine last night. I cut and soldered the new connectors, with some heatshrink tubing to seal the deal. I am happy with my results, but the ground wire was a heavier gauge.

    For future buyers, I think it might be appropriate to order one of the :
    61 130 007 442 Snap-in receptacle 2.5 watertight1,0-2,5 MM²
    .. because the description seems to indicate this may be a heavier wire. However, it may just be a different terminal end, so it would still be prudent to order 3x of the x441 parts.

    Shopping List For the Fuel Pump Connector Repair:
    Qty 1: 61 130 007 442 Snap-in receptacle 2.5 watertight1,0-2,5 MM²
    Qty 3: 61 130 007 441 Snap-in receptacle 2.5 watertight0,5-1,0 MM²
    Qty 1: 61 131 378 410 Connector/Receptacle, 3 Pole

    FYI: These parts were not listed on RealOEM for the E31, I believe it was in the E32 750iL catalog. Plugs/Receptacles and Terminals/Wires

    Tips: You will also need a soldering iron, rosin-core solder, heatshrink tubing (different sizes), & heat gun.
    1) Leave the wires a little long so the individual heatshrink tubing doesn't melt too soon.
    2) When done, heatshrink a big piece over the two +12V wires to protect them from shorts/chafing.
    3) (Optional) Heatshrink another big piece over all three wires.
    Last edited by shogun; 11-04-2019 at 07:26 PM.

    '89 735i, '91 850i, '81 MB 380SLC (For Sale), Tesla Model 3, and VW Passat TDI -- Yes, I still repair General Modules, DM for info!

  17. #17
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    Great follow up - Many Thanks for this one.

  18. #18
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    Holy shit!!!!!! I am having the same problem with mines.... took off the pump redid it, still leaked. redid again still leaking, redid again not leaking but now leaking from the pins wtf.... Im sure its a pressure issue also, My car is literally drinking gas, so discouraging... the murphy's law car I swear...

  19. #19
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    Check fuel vent valve in rear and 2 in front
    Them check fuel pressure regulators for function and correct pressure.
    1991 BMW 850i / V12 5.0L [M70] / ZF4HP24 E/H

  20. #20
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    My car has this exact problem and I too have a bad return valve Part# 16131180600 in the rear passenger side wheel well (1992 850i)
    but everyone is telling me that don't have one and can't get one, even Charlie at Gault.

    Any help would be appreciated.

  21. #21
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    I just was told by charlie too that this part is not available in the US or Germany... Wtf!!! There might be another 8 for parts soon (mine)

  22. #22
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    I have now tried everyplace on the internet that said they have Part #16131180600 and even ordered two of them only to get emails refunding my money because they do not have anymore.

    This part is definitely my problem and I need to fix it. I have pulled mine apart and it looks like to me it is designed to allow air but no fuel to pass through it.

    Does anyone know if I am right and is there a universal part that can do the same thing?

  23. #23
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    Maybe perelet can help us since he's the last to have bought 1 from a dealer.. Maybe where he got his still has more

  24. #24
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    I ordered mine at local dealer - http://www.classicbmw.com. This was not "difficult" order. I had orders for seat parts that I had to wait for few months.

    Pelican also lists one on thier website.

    Oleg
    Last edited by perelet; 05-18-2012 at 08:58 PM.

  25. #25
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    I dont see why my local dealers are making it seem close to impossible at getting the part....

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