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Thread: The Old Boat Build... part one?

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkSideofWill View Post
    Think for a minute about why you need a bigger drain line than feed line...

    The oil's pretty foamed when it comes out of the turbo. That's why the drain line has to be so large. When the turbo drain enters above the level of oil in the pan, then the foam can expand into the crankcase and maintain flow through the drain line.

    If there's liquid oil at the bottom of the drain line, then the foam has a lot less volume to expand into and stands a better chance of backing up into the turbo and making it smoke.
    That's quite the leap... it's gonna take a lot more than a few oily bubbles to fill up a 3 foot -10 hose to the point where the turbo seals leak.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    That's quite the leap... it's gonna take a lot more than a few oily bubbles to fill up a 3 foot -10 hose to the point where the turbo seals leak.
    thankyou.. for saying what i was gunna say..

    sooo i did some test fitting of my wheels today.. BBS RC090 with a twist..

    when they are mounted they will be all black with gold bolts.

    DSC_1645 by TheStatic7, on Flickr


    DSC_1649 by TheStatic7, on Flickr

    enjoy the show

  3. #153
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    Inside out 8" wheels look dumb.

    $0.02

  4. #154
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    Inside out 8" wheels look dumb.

    $0.02

  5. #155
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    no money.. working with what i got jon.. gimmie a break punk


    will be wrapping them in 195 45 Yokohama S drives.. trust me when its done it will look right..

    i want something that will look good.. but wont hurt my bank account when it comes time for new rubber. as soon as this car is done. running and everything im moving out.. so il need a cheap dependable car .. hence 8PSI smaller wheels. and still automatic..
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 10-25-2011 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  6. #156
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    I'll be selling my Rondell 72's (17x8.5, 17x10) soon.. I think. I just need another $3,000 to buy my new setup.

  7. #157
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    idk what those are lol.. i got this set of style fives by trading my roof racks lol

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    CALM DOWN lol

    heres pictures of everything completed waiting for oil. enjoy

    Strut picture for Jboy
    I see you have camber plates?

    With the coils cut 2" how high do you think it will go when you raise them up?
    I just want to get an idea of what i would have since mine are in the mail

    Thank for the picture

  9. #159
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    About this high:


  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    About this high:

    yup about that high.. jon and i have the same coilovers.. i think on a E32 it sits a tad bit higher.. and my camber plates came off a 240SX (NO THEY DONT BOLT UP (new holes were drilled)

  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jboy2 View Post
    I see you have camber plates?

    With the coils cut 2" how high do you think it will go when you raise them up?
    I just want to get an idea of what i would have since mine are in the mail

    Thank for the picture
    JBoy, you wanna read this:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=nex

    check the page 35.. thats a pretty complete write up on NEX coilovers for E34, which is the same for E32.

    about the new wheels.. hellapoke, i love angelina jolie lips. will you polish the rears?

    anyway, i love the way the 19x10 looked on your car.

    195/40 isnt too much stretch? i dont think you will be able to turn fast that way.
    OO=[ ][ ]=OO
    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    7er BMW > Econoboxes

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by DAHHN View Post
    JBoy, you wanna read this:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=nex

    check the page 35.. thats a pretty complete write up on NEX coilovers for E34, which is the same for E32.
    Thanks!

    I've read that thread multiple times over the last month, which was an awesome write up by Jon!
    I recently bought my 735i and this is my first major mod to it

    Just wanted to ask since it looks like they sit abit higher on the 7's

    Thanks again 89!

  13. #163
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    205 40 isnt a stretch on 8 195 is just enough to fit the tire under the fender. nothing is getting polished.. the barrels and wheels are getting a gloss black and gold bolt treatment.
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 10-26-2011 at 01:26 PM.

  14. #164
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    this is what the wheels will look like when finished.

  15. #165
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    sex
    OO=[ ][ ]=OO
    Quote Originally Posted by MCA View Post
    7er BMW > Econoboxes

  16. #166
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    im trouble shooting now.. i have no spark. and i cant seem to find whats causing it. im about to send a hot wire straight to the ignition coil and force starting her..

  17. #167
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    is it possible to hardwire the ignition coil to see if it is infact good?? so far ive tried everything but that and got no spark..i have fuel and air. no spark

  18. #168
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    Did you buy your miller war chip directly from miller? Also, will you be purchasing the miller MAF as well?

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheJuggernaut View Post
    That's quite the leap... it's gonna take a lot more than a few oily bubbles to fill up a 3 foot -10 hose to the point where the turbo seals leak.
    Foam > "a few oily bubbles"

    Also, is there a restrictor orifice in the turbo supply line?

  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    yup about that high.. jon and i have the same coilovers.. i think on a E32 it sits a tad bit higher.. and my camber plates came off a 240SX (NO THEY DONT BOLT UP (new holes were drilled)
    Would they work with stock struts, or is that for NEXs only? Got any pics of the 240sx plates installed? You can run a 240sx strut bar, too then I guess or modify it to work.
    Just mount the wheels face the right way and get some good thick spacers instead.
    Last edited by DUDMD; 10-30-2011 at 06:29 AM.
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  21. #171
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    bought straight from miller..

    yes theres a oil restrictor on the oil inlet flange..

    can i give the ignition coil direct juice to test for spark?! i need the car running soon. like within this week.. if anyone knows anything let me know. otherwise i wont have a car to get back and forth to work anymore.

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    can i give the ignition coil direct juice to test for spark?
    No.

    Do you have a multi-meter? Or at least a test light?

    According to my E34 Bentley, the '89 535 had a green wire hot in run and start going to the coil. This is ignition power. You should see +12 on this wire when you turn the key to run or start. If you see +12 on that wire, everything is fine with the coil power supply. That wire comes straight from the ignition switch.

    The other wire to the coil is black. This should go to the DME. The DME will ground that wire to charge the coil, then disconnect it from ground to fire the coil.
    With the engine off, that wire should show isolation to ground.

    As you crank the engine, a DMM should be able to give you either a frequency or a duty cycle for the A/C voltage on the black wire. The test light should flash if you probe this terminal while cranking.

    The black wire also shows up at pin 1 of the diagnostic connector, so you should be able to probe it there.

    The resistance of the coil from the green wire terminal to the black wire terminal should be 500 Ohms. From the green wire terminal to the tower should be 6 kOhm, both +/- 10%.

    If you have +12 on the green terminal and don't see flashing/frequency/duty cycle on the black wire, then there's a problem between the coil and your DME or with your DME.

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkSideofWill View Post
    No.

    Do you have a multi-meter? Or at least a test light?

    According to my E34 Bentley, the '89 535 had a green wire hot in run and start going to the coil. This is ignition power. You should see +12 on this wire when you turn the key to run or start. If you see +12 on that wire, everything is fine with the coil power supply. That wire comes straight from the ignition switch.

    The other wire to the coil is black. This should go to the DME. The DME will ground that wire to charge the coil, then disconnect it from ground to fire the coil.
    With the engine off, that wire should show isolation to ground.

    As you crank the engine, a DMM should be able to give you either a frequency or a duty cycle for the A/C voltage on the black wire. The test light should flash if you probe this terminal while cranking.

    The black wire also shows up at pin 1 of the diagnostic connector, so you should be able to probe it there.

    The resistance of the coil from the green wire terminal to the black wire terminal should be 500 Ohms. From the green wire terminal to the tower should be 6 kOhm, both +/- 10%.

    If you have +12 on the green terminal and don't see flashing/frequency/duty cycle on the black wire, then there's a problem between the coil and your DME or with your DME.
    thanks.. ive gone thru 3 coils... sooo you think i need a new ECU? and il swap my war chip over to the new one?

  24. #174
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    just a quick check. When you put the key in the ign and go to the 2nd position before turning hte car on, does your CEL light up?

    TRM Turbo, Hybrid Audio Technologies stereo, S50 Cams, list goes on and on and on...

  25. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    thanks.. ive gone thru 3 coils... sooo you think i need a new ECU? and il swap my war chip over to the new one?
    You've tried three different coils and can't get spark?
    Just sounds like it's not the coil.

    Until you do the checks I outlined, it'll be difficult to say anything.

    Quote Originally Posted by darrenforeal View Post
    just a quick check. When you put the key in the ign and go to the 2nd position before turning hte car on, does your CEL light up?
    Good question...

    He said he's getting fuel (hasn't said anything about how he figured that out), so I assumed the DME was working right at least that far.

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