The Old Boat Build... part one?

[DarkSideofWill]

.080 over was referring to thickness not bore. stock is .070 thick im .010 thicker

Ok... Was wondering.
What's the piston deck on these engines? Zero? In the hole? Out?

Quench clearance in the .050-.080 range can be crevice volume also.

Tapping the pan while its on the engine is very risky.

[89BMW735il]

Ok... Was wondering.
What's the piston deck on these engines? Zero? In the hole? Out?

Quench clearance in the .050-.080 range can be crevice volume also.

Tapping the pan while its on the engine is very risky.

no idea what the deck is on the pistons.. i know they come up to the top of the block flush. so i assume zero?

i have confidence that with a atmospheric crankcase vent i should be absolutely fine routing my return to the stock drain plug location.
also this car isnt going to be some superfast track car.. the initial intention of boosting this car was just to make the 5 mile commute to work a bit more fun.. and ive always wanted to accomplish boosting a NA car..

[milKt]

rather spend the money on a engine lift, i bet you will have to use it later !

and don't say you won't !

and storing it will be easy, most engine lifts will be dismantled in minutes !

yeah, "cherry pickers" are dirt cheap. Heck, the "engine leveler" unit is as pricey as an engine hoist (cherry picker), but sooo useful.

[89BMW735il]

yeah, "cherry pickers" are dirt cheap. Heck, the "engine leveler" unit is as pricey as an engine hoist (cherry picker), but sooo useful.

i noticed in the pictures of you lowing your beautiful hunk o motor into your car.. its purty

ordering 4 things to make my oil return line..
1 m12x1.5 to 8AN male adaptor
1 8AN female tee union
1 8AN plug
1 8AN to 10AN male flare union

my oil return line is 10AN and im thinking i should ditch the 45 end i have on it now for a 90.. seems like it maybe a smart move

[mcoupemindy]

I lost my fear of metal shavings after my first oil change with the new engine - it looked like metallic paint.

You CAN tap the pan while it is on the car - you just need to flush out with oil.

If you are going top mount, there's a simple connector you can buy at Summit Racing to tap right into the oil pan drain.

[89BMW735il]

I lost my fear of metal shavings after my first oil change with the new engine - it looked like metallic paint.

You CAN tap the pan while it is on the car - you just need to flush out with oil.

If you are going top mount, there's a simple connector you can buy at Summit Racing to tap right into the oil pan drain.

summit racing's connector is the same as the m12 X 1.5 to 8AN fitting im buying.

i need a new distributor rotor and the bolt that goes beneath it.. the rotor is in 3 pieces that have been glued back together( i did it) and the bolt that hold the mount for the rotor to the cam is nearly stripped.. i have no allen wrenches that fit it.. im getting frustrated..


ok im thinking of making a downpipe that is 3" off the turbo 90 down and split into 2 2.5" pipes that run through my existing exhaust... using vband clamps to simplify things of course..

i may need to buy a welder soon....

[DarkSideofWill]

I lost my fear of metal shavings after my first oil change with the new engine - it looked like metallic paint.

There's a difference between break-in debris from the rings polishing their grooves/plateauing the bores and machining chips such as created by tapping a cast aluminum oil pan.

A chip could get pulled into the oil pump pickup and would not be nice to the pump as it went through. The filter *should* trap it, but if the engine's at high RPM with the filter bypassed, it could go straight through the filter and into one of the engine's bearings.

no idea what the deck is on the pistons.. i know they come up to the top of the block flush. so i assume zero?

Below about .050, quench clearance is good, helps combustion and improves detonation resistance.
Between .050 and .080 or .100, quench clearance is bad and can contribute to detonation by trapping fuel in the crevice during combustion. Two valve heads and usually more sensitive to this clearance as they have greater quench area than 4 valve heads. The greater area means that fuel can be trapped deeper in the crevice volume and not get out as easily.
Above .100, quench clearance pretty much doesn't matter.

Are you using the thicker gasket to lower compression? Have other builders gone that way successfully?

[mcoupemindy]

There's a difference between break-in debris from the rings polishing their grooves/plateauing the bores and machining chips such as created by tapping a cast aluminum oil pan.

A chip could get pulled into the oil pump pickup and would not be nice to the pump as it went through. The filter *should* trap it, but if the engine's at high RPM with the filter bypassed, it could go straight through the filter and into one of the engine's bearings.



Below about .050, quench clearance is good, helps combustion and improves detonation resistance.
Between .050 and .080 or .100, quench clearance is bad and can contribute to detonation by trapping fuel in the crevice during combustion. Two valve heads and usually more sensitive to this clearance as they have greater quench area than 4 valve heads. The greater area means that fuel can be trapped deeper in the crevice volume and not get out as easily.
Above .100, quench clearance pretty much doesn't matter.

Are you using the thicker gasket to lower compression? Have other builders gone that way successfully?

Using a vacuum, greasing the bit, and going slow minimizes any risk of tapping the pan. A quick flush with dinosaur will wash out any other debris that might get in. I've also seen it done without draining the pan first so there's oil pressure pushing out from the inside decreasing the probability that debris will be pushed in (messy, but works).

Tapping the pan on the car is a tried and proven method. I'd venture to say that 8 out of 10 mild turbo builds do it this way.

With a top mount, I like the drain into the drain bung method. That way, there's nothing irreversible.

[Martinator]

Check the lower block for a boss to tap the oil return. Some early m30b35 blocks have this boss along with the boss' to mount to e24 chassis.
The oil pan can be removed; I've done it with a jack lifting via the AC compressor. The oil pump pickup will need to be unbolted before the pan can be removed. This would be a good opportunity to replace the stock cork pan gasket with a rubber & steel gasket.
The pistons on 2 of my m30b35's were just proud of the block deck. I had a terrible time with the MLS head gasket on my last engine.
I'd suggest mounting the throttle directly to the manifold, if possible. Each clamp connection is a potential problem.

[89BMW735il]

Check the lower block for a boss to tap the oil return. Some early m30b35 blocks have this boss along with the boss' to mount to e24 chassis.
The oil pan can be removed; I've done it with a jack lifting via the AC compressor. The oil pump pickup will need to be unbolted before the pan can be removed. This would be a good opportunity to replace the stock cork pan gasket with a rubber & steel gasket.
The pistons on 2 of my m30b35's were just proud of the block deck. I had a terrible time with the MLS head gasket on my last engine.
I'd suggest mounting the throttle directly to the manifold, if possible. Each clamp connection is a potential problem.

my throttle body flip thing has been pressure tested to 20psi i stopped as it wasnt needed to go any higher.. everything has been sealed and cured..

things are going along smoothly.. i got the head off today it needs a good cleaning.

im thinking of removing most of the exhaust and piecing together a full dual 2.5" exhaust from my 3" downpipe.. sounds like a good plan to me

[86GT635]

Think about using 750 back half, it flows enough for a v12. Might be easy to start with.

[89BMW735il]

my exhaust is a full 2.5" dual exhaust no cats just a resinator

i just finished cleaning up my greddy catch can of oxidation on the caps, and gave it a coat of paint as it looked cheap and cheesy for my engine bay. also after painting it, i decided to polish the caps to a mirror finish.. looks great



i think it looks great

[tlmitf]

Is that can baffled?

For it to work its going to need a vertical baffle, and some stainless steel wool in there.

Looks good though, i wish i had the patience to actually give a crap about how my engine bay looked...

[89BMW735il]

yes its baffled and i have steel wool in there, looks are everything to me.. when i pop the hood on a longterm project like this. i want it to look the part.

Is that can baffled?

For it to work its going to need a vertical baffle, and some stainless steel wool in there.

Looks good though, i wish i had the patience to actually give a crap about how my engine bay looked...

[tlmitf]

Cool, looks like you have everything under control
Goodluck with the build, hope it all comes together for you.

[DieselGhost]

when do you expect to drive this thing ???

[89BMW735il]

hopefully by the end of the month.. ive got a storm of more parts coming in this week and the week after so il be posting alot of progress pictures.. also il be dropping my head off to be worked friday. soo all i have left to buy is a shit ton of AN fittings, injectors, and a MillerMAF conversion. hopefully they can supply an extended harness...cuz mines going to be near the headlight..

[hybridbmw]

I drilled and tapped my oil pan while it was on the car. I made sure the pan was full of oil while drilling so the aluminum bits of metal were pushed out as the oil flowed out. It was a little messy, but it got the job done. I would recommend putting your oil return at the top of the oil pan so you get proper flow. If you put it at the bottom of the pan you risk the oil not being able to drain properly which is not good for the turbo. I know on the B34's there is a boss for where the oil return was located on the M102/M106 745 motors, you may want to look into that as well. mye28.com has alot of into on boosted M30's in the forced induction section.

[89BMW735il]

I drilled and tapped my oil pan while it was on the car. I made sure the pan was full of oil while drilling so the aluminum bits of metal were pushed out as the oil flowed out. It was a little messy, but it got the job done. I would recommend putting your oil return at the top of the oil pan so you get proper flow. If you put it at the bottom of the pan you risk the oil not being able to drain properly which is not good for the turbo. I know on the B34's there is a boss for where the oil return was located on the M102/M106 745 motors, you may want to look into that as well. mye28.com has alot of into on boosted M30's in the forced induction section.

EDIT after browsing myE28 the difference between the M30 and the M106 is the hole for the oil return.. sooooo im still using my drain plug idea.

i hate you a little bit.. il have a poke around that side of the block after i cut the exhaust off.. thanks for the head up. but keep in mind that turbo was bottom mount.. i just thought it would be a damn good idea to not drill any holes that way everything is reversible. and with my top mount setup it would drain just fine as the oil level isnt nearly as high.. so i shouldnt have any drain issues..

with all that jibberish being said.. im still gunna poke around to see if i can save money with this boss..

soooo i got some aluminum diamond plate... il be making an enclosure for my oil cooler.. a very sexy one..

[89BMW735il]

Ordering more parts now.. dropping head off at a machine shop later today.. will post pictures as parts roll in

[89BMW735il]

ok so a few things came in the mail today..

3" to dual 2.5" exhaust Y
intake filter bypass
3" to 2.5" coupler for charge pipe to throttle body
a ton of Tbolt clamps..

[EddieH]

any reason why u went with the Miller set up over say a MS set up? I am very curious of how smooth the Miller set up will be. I am debating on which direction I want to take my 735i/5

[89BMW735il]

miller WAR chip is plug and play almost.. MS setup seems tooo damn complicated for me..
cost effective as well.. i know pre made MS setups are pricey.. i just dont think i should have full control over my ECU like the MS gives you.. i shouldnt do that cause il break things.. seriously..

[tlmitf]

miller WAR chip is plug and play almost.. MS setup seems tooo damn complicated for me..
cost effective as well.. i know pre made MS setups are pricey.. i just dont think i should have full control over my ECU like the MS gives you.. i shouldnt do that cause il break things.. seriously..

I know your pain.
Im playing with a new EMS on my daily. replacement engines are only $220 from the wreckers, and he has about 30 of them so i should be okay

[89BMW735il]

I know your pain.
Im playing with a new EMS on my daily. replacement engines are only $220 from the wreckers, and he has about 30 of them so i should be okay

YEAH EF That.. im lazy, do it once the right way and leave it alone lol thats what im about