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Thread: The Old Boat Build... part one?

  1. #26
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    is the higher stall torque converter still available??. I have the same dilema with my e34 535i. I want to keep the auto trans and put a turbo kit on it that I purchased a while ago.

    I think last time I communicated with tcd I think I remember that he didnt sell them anymore. I could be wrong though.

  2. #27
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    no idea. till then il be shooting for 330WHP and drive it till it goes i guess. i dont need 400+WHP that would be insane.....ly awesome.. when i made the decision to turbo my car i had no idea those massive numbers could be achieved so easily

  3. #28
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  4. #29
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    heres the plan.. im tuning for 330WHP and when its all said and done.. il be picking up a second M30B35 from the junkyard and im going to build it.. the whole 9 yards and il get a 5 speed and everything together.. and go for 650whp 700 just sounds scary.. i dont want to die before i turn 30.. ( im 21)

    Quote Originally Posted by AusE34 View Post
    okay no worries thanks for that.
    il ask him in the next email i send him regarding if he has anymore torque converters.
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-01-2011 at 11:28 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  5. #30
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    well you dont need to build the bottom end. this car was running in the 11's for 1/4 mile time with a stock bottom end.

    have a look here >> http://www.youtube.com/user/raceaddic

  6. #31
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    UPDATE
    TCD manifold should be here sometime next week.

    my intake manifold throttle body flip is complete all i need to do is fabricate a mount to hold the throttle cable in the appropriate position. should be easy but i cant do it till everything is mounted in the car.

    as of now im in the process of getting my lazy ass up and taking the head off the car. taking off the belts and pulleys to clean them up and have the pulleys polished maybe.. just to clean things up.. everything just looks old and worn out.

    ive also talked to Todd @ TCD and ive made the decision to replace my transmission every year rather then swap to a 5 speed. seems easier to me.

    ive sourced an amazing welder in the area that will fabricate a custom down pipe that will leave the turbo as a 3" and split into 2 2.5" pipes and run through my existing (gutted) exhaust.


    all i have left to buy is injectors, MAF, a few couplers, and a 29X11X3 intercooler, and some push fans.



    6:49AM
    ive been up all night un tangling the wires in that mini harness that runs parallel with the fuel rail making individual littler harnesses so i can tuck the wires underneath the manifold for somewhat of a wire tuck.

    heres some pictures of what i accomplished indoors.. again i apologize for the iPhone4 shots.. i promise when i put this all together il use my Nikon D80.

    look at that little guy, would ya just look at it?!



    Before



    After



    all cleaned up on the inside..



    il post more pictures as i take and have time to upload..

    4 more weeks and this project will be complete-ish Startable i hope..

  7. #32
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    Good stuff man. More pics of the dog.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  8. #33
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    ahhh thats ma boy.. names Rota (yes like the wheels) he is a 2 year old Newfoundland pup. weighs about 175 pounds last time he was weighed



    when standing up on his back legs he is 6'2"

  9. #34
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    mcoupemindy is offline Senior Member BMW CCA Member
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    Lookin' good.

    When do you expect to have it completed?

    I'm putting together another dyno day in November, you should come out.

  10. #35
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    e34 528iT/5 obdI parting
    Replacing the trans every year is easier than swapping to 5 speed? No way. 5 speed swap is a weekend (or one day if you have someone else there) project. Then you won't have to worry about it again.


    PARTING MY TOURING-
    M52/ZF trans/3.23LSD/MtechII/RD suspension/ACS wheels/'95 door panels/smileys/HID's/etc.

    current- possible m sport

    past-
    '92 525iT- motor/trans swappage/rust/big wheels
    '95 540i/6- rust.
    '95 525iT- Mike Wang
    '89 535i- gone but not forgotten
    '92 525i- auto suck tragic
    '93 525i/5- k.i.a.

  11. #36
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    ive only done trans swaps in subaru's and a mustang.. everything was bolt together.. i have an il so dont i have to get a driveshaft made?

    Quote Originally Posted by mcoupemindy View Post
    Lookin' good.

    When do you expect to have it completed?

    I'm putting together another dyno day in November, you should come out.
    i plan to have it driveable by the end of september
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-03-2011 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  12. #37
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    anyone know what valve sizes i should buy? im on VAC's website about to buy all new valves so when i get my head decked and a 3 way grind done they have new stuff to put in it.
    i just need to know which set will fit.. any help would be much appreciated..

  13. #38
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    mcoupemindy is offline Senior Member BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    anyone know what valve sizes i should buy? im on VAC's website about to buy all new valves so when i get my head decked and a 3 way grind done they have new stuff to put in it.
    i just need to know which set will fit.. any help would be much appreciated..
    Hold up. Before you do ANYTHING, call Ed @ York Automotive. 410-795-7840.

    He's the one who did my port / polish and 5 angle job on my head. He's local and knows his stuff.

    For the price of just machining elsewhere, he gave me back a perfectly refurbished head that flows excellent.

    I suggest you take the head to him, drop it off, explain your goals and come back when it's ready. You won't be disappointed. Let the person building and machining the head source the appropriate parts.

    Please tell him Jonathan Thayer sent you his way.

  14. #39
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    ive already got a machine shop doing work on my car they build drag cars.. and do all around work.. but thankyou for the info. now that im thinking about it.. cant the machine shop grind the valves themselves? perhaps im over thinking it. il just drop the head off later this week.. i need it cleaned , decked, and a valve job.. my intake and exhaust valve look rather new/clean for an old car. ive got start looking up mating preperation to properly install this MLS headgasket. also ive gotta figure out how to take the oil pan off without removing the engine.. or find some other place to return oil from the turbo.. anythoughts?

    also my VAC m30 oil adaptor plate didnt fit because of the motor mount bracket. so i had to shave off a 16th of a inch on the plate. it now fits perfectly. kinda sad that i grinded into a $120 piece of metal
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-04-2011 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  15. #40
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    mcoupemindy is offline Senior Member BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    ive already got a machine shop doing work on my car they build drag cars.. and do all around work.. but thankyou for the info. now that im thinking about it.. cant the machine shop grind the valves themselves? perhaps im over thinking it. il just drop the head off later this week.. i need it cleaned , decked, and a valve job.. my intake and exhaust valve look rather new/clean for an old car. ive got start looking up mating preperation to properly install this MLS headgasket. also ive gotta figure out how to take the oil pan off without removing the engine.. or find some other place to return oil from the turbo.. anythoughts?
    "drag shops" scare the living crap out of me. They typically don't know a damn thing about BMW heads. In addition to needing special machinery to do BMW heads, tolerances are much tighter than normal domestic heads.

    For your power levels, you should keep the head stock IMO with a minor port and polish. There's no need for oversizing valve, etc.

    As far as the pan, I'm not sure how it's located in your car, but the easiest solution is to drill and tap the pan without removing it from the car.

    I have a set of the sharpening stones if you'd like to borrow them to prep the block for the MLS.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcoupemindy View Post

    As far as the pan, I'm not sure how it's located in your car, but the easiest solution is to drill and tap the pan without removing it from the car.

    I have a set of the sharpening stones if you'd like to borrow them to prep the block for the MLS.
    how can i drill and tap without getting metal shavings in the pan? please explain i was planning on using a 10AN bulkhead to attach my oil return. as it isnt recommended to weld on my pan..

    and sharpening stones eh? thats something ive never heard of. maybe i should start searching how to prep for MLS
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-04-2011 at 06:03 PM.

  17. #42
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    whats happening about the higher stall torque converters?

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by AusE34 View Post
    whats happening about the higher stall torque converters?
    i haven't heard back from him yet. it is the weekend.

    is there any other place i can drill and tap for a oil return rather then the oil pan cause i just dont see this happening with no engine lift and a gravel driveway..

    ive read some car drain back into the valve cover and the timing chain cover.. can i do this? i also have a oil cooler and a remote filter.. can i drain to that? it sits lower then the turbo.. im looking for any alternative to tapping the pan
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-04-2011 at 06:53 PM.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post

    ive read some car drain back into the valve cover and the timing chain cover.. can i do this?
    The valve cover and timing chain area will actually be PUSHING air;
    hence, crankcase ventilation. You can't force oil uphill AND against airflow.


  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    The valve cover and timing chain area will actually be PUSHING air;
    hence, crankcase ventilation. You can't force oil uphill AND against airflow.
    is there any other place i could drain to besides the pan. my remote filter is below the turbo.. i just dont have the ability to tap the pan. could i return oil into my factory drain plug? just going thru my options. also my crankcase will be vented to atmospheric so wouldnt that make it un-pressurized?
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-04-2011 at 07:18 PM.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89BMW735il View Post
    Cometic .080 over MLS head gasket
    Any reason you're going with .080 over?
    I strongly suggest keeping the head gasket bore as close to the block bore as possible.
    Added diameter to the head gasket bore in excess of the block bore creates crevice volume within the chamber. Fuel can collect within this crevice volume in a random way, different from one combustion cycle to the next. This will give inconsistent performance making the engine more difficult to tune and risk detonation.

    Here's David Vizard's (if you don't know that name, it's a good name to know...) analysis of crevice volume:
    http://www.gofastnews.com/showthread...hlight=crevice

    Also, turbos like automatics better than sticks.

  22. #47
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    You could gravity return to your factory drain plug.

    Is the drain plug WELL below where the turbo's center section will sit?
    Are you confident that oil will not "back up" into the center section?
    Where is the oil level during normal driving?

    mcoupemindy hinted at tapping the pan while the pan is ON the car. It has been done, it can be done
    and
    can allow you to gravity drain the oil to a place WELL above the regular oil level in your pan (so you can worry less about destroying your turbo.)


  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkSideofWill View Post

    Also, turbos like automatics better than sticks.
    .080 over was referring to thickness not bore. stock is .070 thick im .010 thicker

    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    You could gravity return to your factory drain plug.

    Is the drain plug WELL below where the turbo's center section will sit?
    Are you confident that oil will not "back up" into the center section?
    Where is the oil level during normal driving?

    mcoupemindy hinted at tapping the pan while the pan is ON the car. It has been done, it can be done
    and
    can allow you to gravity drain the oil to a place WELL above the regular oil level in your pan (so you can worry less about destroying your turbo.)
    yes but im also scared sh!tless about metal shavings. i want to tap to oil drain plug and my turbo will be top mounted so its well above the drain plug. if i can do this with AN fittings it would be an awesome oil change.. if i can drill and tap the pan without getting metallic flake oil (+1000 HP) il do it..


    but if no one else objects.. im going to try my hand at routing to the oil drain plug.. just for simplicity.. i have a top mounted turbo so i dont think oil backing up will be an issue..

    so i just had a brilliant idea.. il take the oil drain plug and go find appropriate fittings and get a inline drain valve for oil changes so the valve will be sticking out of the pan ( my pan has a horizontal plug location so it wont come close to the road) then on the other end of the valve will be my return line coming from the turbo.. this should be rather clever
    Last edited by 89BMW735il; 09-04-2011 at 07:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  24. #49
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    YOUR pan may be significantly different than the trendy M50 pans around these parts.
    There are a few M30 guys who can guide better than myself, but here is some talk about factory pan bolt.

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ght=oil+return

    Again, I'm not sure how similar the M30 factory drain plug is in relation to the M50 based engines for E36/E34


  25. #50
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    just do it the proper way, and save yourself the hazzle of having to redo something...

    rather spend the money on a engine lift, i bet you will have to use it later !

    and don't say you won't !

    and storing it will be easy, most engine lifts will be dismantled in minutes !
    Viktor Agnar Falk Gušmundsson
    -----------------------------

    Signature idea, courtesy of 5mall5nails

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